Tyler is missing the short bolt in the front of the block that goes directly to the fuel pump pushrod bore. It is used for holding the pushrod up when you install a new fuel pump by installing a longer bolt. That's why it is pouring oil. I could see on the video that the bolt is missing. Be sure to use a bolt short enough that it doesn't contact the push rod so it doesn't interfere.
@@tcap7917 PCV valve must be doing it's job, then. Not too many car guys realize how much better their piston rings might work if they could somehow keep a little negative pressure in the crankcase even at high rpm. I used a NOS Toyota smog pump sucking though a 1" tube to a big oil separator box I fabbed under my my Pontiac's lifter valley cover plate. The suction keeps my rings glued to the bottom of the piston ring lands especially when throttled back (high intake vacuum) at high rpm. The pump's output of blowby gets dumped into a nice hot header collector. My oil consumption dropped by 90% and the straight SAE 30 wt still looks like honey after 3,000 miles. That's GOT to be good for the planet ! PS - "real racers" use Dry Sump oiling systems to get the same effect. What I rigged up was a lot cheaper - but I do worry about potentially leaking valve cover and oil pan gaskets sucking dirty air into my engine. I have a plastic relief valve from some modern car (my NAPA guy found it) that lets filtered air into my crankcase when there is about 5-7 inches of vacuum in there. I don't want to see how much suction that pump could possibly make. A little is just right. You're welcome. Enjoy!
@@tcap7917 In normal driving PCV crankcase vacuum probably helps to retain the oil and the bottom end isn't slinging it around so much. But a dyno session...
Chassis dynos are called "heartbreakers" for a reason lol these videos are very informative and fun. Excellent work! Thank you to everyone for sharing this info and experience.
Great video and amazing Chevells, I’ve seen several tachometer’s read up to 300 rpm difference from dyno readings. I’d guess the dyno is acurate😅, keep up the good work!
Ok, style points for those Keystone wheels! Even the aftermarket ones are the sharpest out there & add to any muscle cars appeal! I have never owned or drove any Chevrolet, but those look pretty good & sound great!!
I’m envious of you guys! I’ve got a 68 convertible and would’ve loved to be in that procession. Cool too once I realized you guys are in Alberta. The hike from Ont would be a tad expensive on gas though!
Man these things sound so good on the Dyno. I'm working on a 72, and my 76 pickup is donating it's flat top, cammed square port 454. I always estimated power by what transmissions I was breaking.... At least 450 tq to break the 4 speeds I was using
Great video’s, cars are making great H.P very realistic numbers. Andrew’s car is a beast at basically 12 flat. That ol LS-6 works great. Great job on the videos.
Never had a Chevy been a Torino guy all my life but I got to say I always liked those 69 Chevelle,s and the horseshoe shifter way more stylish than the tee shifter keppem clean bots
Good stuff, you had a real variety of drivetrains there to mix it up. It always seems to be cisappointing to hear chassis dyno numbers after what seems like so many huge engine dyno figures these days.
Yep, chassis numbers are always significantly lower and no two dynos seem to read exactly the same. They do however give you a good idea of changes in tuning when ran back to back. Of course you can also see how much parasitic drag/loss you have from everything required to keep the motor happy & get power to the road. I have a brother-in-law who is in denial or just doesn't understand. He thinks the 70 LS6 454 Chevelle he previously owned was more powerful (faster) than my C6ZO6 corvette as his LS6 Big-block made about 565 HP on an engine dyno. My mild bolt-on/cam 2007 LS7 only makes 550 at the tire. I have no real idea what the motor makes at the crank but I would guess between 640-650? He doesn't have the car anymore so I'm sure he's right. You know it works that way 🤔....
I have a 427 that's bored 60 over it has afr 265 oval port heads a Howard's hydraulic roller cam that's 235x241@50 with 618 lift it's around 10.5 to 1 compression I have a Victor Jr. With a atm 950 it made 661 hp and 605 torque on the dyno it's all about the combo I bet if Andrew put a set of aftermarket heads on that engine he could pick up a easy 80 to 100 hp. Great video guys.
I have no regrets for my decision of parts used to refresh on the 454 ls6 engine. I am satisfied with the parts that I have. My brother said the same as you but he also added I should go with a roller cam lol. Thanks for the comment
Most people think it takes way more power than it does when it's used properly Our Slow Car 2870 lb Race Weight 461" BBC with unported Oval Ports with stock size valves. Flat Tappet Cam 1.76 Low Powerglide with 8" Converter 5.96 @ 114 in the 1/8 mi. I'm guessing maybe 580 gross. Due to the loose converter it only made 330 rwhp sae net on a chassis dyno. I don't race dynos, so I don't care. Incidentally both Standard (SAE J607) and Net (SAE J1349) are SAE just corrected to different temperature and barometric pressure (60F and 29.92" vs 77F and 29.234").
Hi guys, I just loved this dyno video. I have a 71 SS Elcamino with an LS7 XCH 454 4spd. It has L88 aluminum heads and a comp cams Xtreme 274h cam, 3 inch exhaust. Compression is approximately 10.25. It has an edelbrock performer rpm intake for rectangular ports and an 850cfm Brawler BR-67314 carb. I was wondering if you had any guesses what it would have for numbers. Keep up the great work
I own and run MuleTown Mobile Dyno. I am the dyno operator for hot Rod power tour the past 5 years. Some things about your video…. Air fuel ratio reading at the tailpipe are a very rough gauge… any leaks in the exhaust will cause issues. I have people ask me about using that function to tune and I usually strongly suggest against it unless the car appears or smells grossly rich or lean. Honestly the HP is right about what I would imagine based on all the cars I have run. But I can say for sure your biggest losses over what your times at the track are is in the strapping of the vehicle and tire deformation. I few of those runs the tires are deforming enough where they are VERY close to popping. Common misconception is that in the dyno you want to run low psi for traction but it’s the other way around. You need at least 25-30 psi in the tires on the dyno to keep tire stabil. The bigger the tires/ the more deformation (due to tire shake and speed or overstrapping) the more loss you will get. My dyno has a twin roller cradle setup that allows you to gently strap a vehicle in and you typically see more consistent runs this way. As for changes in power from first to second runs… in carb setups that usually are too rich Cruising around the streets it’s common to see the first pull low and clean out the spark plugs / unburnt fuel / carbon… who knows. But typically efi will be more consistent other than slightly bump from oil temperatures… unless if had been detecting knock and makes timing advances on it’s own. Lastly STD numbers are the internet numbers. Definitely use SAE correction. But sae is supposed to be corrected to humidity pressure temperature that day. So if the data from the run does show this data they may not have a weather station hooked up and is why they are showing STD. Sae can be 1-4 percent different either direction depending on conditions from what I have seen.
Also… for my dyno at least. Rpm being off with only shift your HP line left or right. The number will always be the same. The only thing RPM (engine speed) is used for is torque calculation. The roller speed is always constant for the machine and doesn’t care about your gearing etc… so it’s calculating power perfect no matter what. That’s why if you don’t run an engine speed pickup the dyno graph will just have MPH on the x axis.
SAE, STD, DIN, etc are correction factor types that can be chosen by the operator to display as the corrected numbers. Dynojet dyno runs are stored as raw data, so any correction factor can be applied at any time. Without atmospheric measurements, no corrected power values would be available, only uncorrected values.
550fwhp minus 20-30 for the exhaust system, divided by 1.25 for th-400, automatic driveline loss. I came up with 424rwhp for the green, Chevelle. so close @417rwhp actual measurement.
@@SS454LS6 manual transmission will show less of a power drop than the th-400 15-17% is probably more like it, so something else is probably causing a lower number than it should be.
probably pick up 10 hp just by closing the hood , hookup a coldair plumbing and using a bigger fan. seen this many times , the air is so trash running with the hood open and the fan not pushing enough CFMs
Damn. GM guy here. Made the mistake of watching 2JZ videos before I came here. My bad. At least these probably made more torque and would be beasts on boost too.
@@musclebone7875 Doing so will make your life happy into infinity. If you actually enjoy sadness, pain, and even disease, then by all means don't LS swap.
Couple of things. These are typical old school combos; they don't make a lot of power by today's standards. Some things that would help you, don't dyno on drag radials, especially flat ones (this may have something to do with your gear ratio changes too, not sure tho). Rev limiters all start ahead of their settings, check with your manufacture to see how soon. If you waited until the set RPM to try to limit it, you would overshoot it. In general, I wouldn't use SAE and you certainly can't compare, and SAE run to a STD run. Your car did not make what is in the SAE chart, its calculated that it would run that if the air temp/baro were the SAE specs. Thats why if you dyno on a warmer day the SAE numbers will be higher, and lower on a cold day than the STD numbers. Whichever car had the HP go flat and stay there, has a serious air restriction. Probably needs a better head but could be the carb or intake. Trust your own WB over the dyno's. They are better placed.
Some of these engines making a lot more power than stock... Yeah, flat HP curve says air flow restriction in intake, exhaust, somewhere... if TPI engine, it would be the long TPI intake runner length...
Power accessories and automatic transmissions always rob a lot of power. The closest you will ever get to the engine dyno numbers in a drivable car is to have NO power accessories (belt drives alternator and water pump only) and a manual transmission. Planetary gears take a lot of power to operate, not to mention the hydraulic pump which is why Pro Stock ditched the Lenco decades ago.
On your intake measure three quarters of an inch from the back of the circle and draw a line on the divider measure three quarters of an inch from the front center of the arch back and draw a line you should have somewhere between a half inch and 5/8 of an inch marked that you're going to be saving and then measure down 5/8 of an inch I think it's a half inch but I'd go 5/8 and cut that center part out and that'll increase your top end horsepower and torque with your losing on the top end is some flow and that's why it's dropping down what gear ratio you do you have in your car all gear ratios are measured on a 28 inch tall tire
Just wondering what type of fuel you are using if it is just regular pump gas that could be a small part of the problem not knowing anything about the engines in the cars it’s hard to help or give any opinion other than maybe the fuel or obvious things like not having headers or carb to small
Seeing a Chevelle painted in Pontiac Vedoro Green makes you do a double-take. Is that the original color and if so, was it a special order or was that color available as an RPO up there in Canada? Looks cool with the painted roof too.
The 68 is all correct according to the GM of canada paperwork. Since restoring the car 30 years ago I have learned many differences between the Canadian and American built chevelles. There are many 68 verdoro green chevelles here in canada. One of my bucket list things to do is bring it to a Chevy show in USA
Temps change everything as you noted, MPH isn't corrected in any way it's how fast your car went that particular night, so if the DA was good and your inlet temps were low etc due to lower intake/head temps etc. So the question is, was the car actually faster or do you just want it to be because you ran it at lower temps than you had before?
Dyno guys can make it read what ever you want with the C.F knob. Some scrupulously dishonest engine builder play this game when selling an engine to a customer, then when he goes to an honest engine builder, he's mad and sometimes mad at the honest engine builder. Get one you know you can trust and stick with 'em. Test at the track even better...
Can't do that on the Dynojet dyno. Atmospheric conditions are sampled by the hardware, not entered by the operator. Spotting a high correction factor would be easy.
Shouldn't be since there is a correction factor. Different dynos in different locations likely will have different numbers, but the same one should correct the same and be comparable. But who knows.
RPM data has no bearing on power either, only torque as power is measured and torque is calculated. As for the consistency, you always want to make as many runs as needed until the subsequent run makes the same or lower power. Typically, you'll see power go up-up-up-same or up-up-drop. This makes sure the drivetrain components are up to temp and allow consistent power transmission through them. Consistency is key. The dyno shop should have "test gas" for testing the accuracy of their O2 sensor. If it's reading correctly, it should match your O2 readings, assuming yours also read correctly. If their readings are correct, it seems the car may be a bit rich and power may come up leaning it out a bit. Tylers' car seems to be quite lean, never dipping under 14. It may make more power when richened up. Change the graph bottom axis to speed instead of RPM...if the power oscillations are still there, it's not from erratic RPM data. Could just be because it's so lean. Andrews' car showed leaner on the dyno that the car's O2 sensor. This could indicate an air leak, leaning the reading at the tailpipe. Lastly, about your car running faster at the track after a longer time between runs...what was the air temperature difference? If your car is running rich (per the dyno O2 reading), if the air temp dropped, that would effectively lean it out a little and would make more power / go faster.
Excellent post. We noticed Tyler's super lean condition the last time, looked at buying a kit for his AFB carb to fix that and found the secondaries weren't opening. Expected a difference in power and AFR. However, same result. The graph is not smooth even when changed to speed. I've considered maybe my car had a header leak and could be why the o2 readers were so off too. The air between my old 12.80 and new 12.53 was very similar. 3272 DA and 57F for old, 3092 DA and 62F for new. Fitech o2 readers were dead on to my targets during both runs.
@@SS454LS6 12.80 @ 107 vs 12.53 @ 109 right? Did the 12.53 also have a better 60' time? More speed at the 1/8th? I bet it was more the run, hook or launch than power. This is why calculators aren't really great estimators...lots of factors come into play.
Backwards... torque is a direct measurement... HP is calculated from the formula: HP = torque X RPM divided by 5252... Which is also the reason torque and HP lines cross at 5250 on the graph if HP and torque use the same number scales on the edges...
Does anyone know the color on the 68? I had a 68 in that color in 1977 / 78 but it had just been repainted. Have never seen another in that green. Mine was ss, black vinyl top, black bench seat, 4 speed, 12 bolt. Was in New Jersey.
After seeing your data,....I believe his dyno needs to be checked at the very least. One car?? Ok. Two cars?? Ehh. But 3 or 4 cars running suspiciously low and banging the rev limiter with 2 cars and super low HP #'s ??? Yeah. That's probably dyno issues.
You had the hood open on your vehicle that'll throw up all your estimates of where your fuel curve is close to Hood you need a fan that's going to produce as much air as the car will see going down the highway at that speed otherwise all your numbers are off with the hood open because the heat is coming up and raining down over the car instead of escaping all the under the sides and through the back
I can help a couple of those engines were valve floating need new valve springs .also I can build you a cheap combo over 600 hp head work the right combo camshaft right mufflers trans tourqe. Converter those engines can put out no less than 30 to 50 percent more .some e-85 jetting sniper system .my motors big blocks with stock rods run no less than 7000 rpm never a problem that small block I could really wake up 2 speed glide strocker moter head work custom intake fuel system over 7 grand easy still pulling but I've been doing this since 1982 so I don't know anything .
we know what happened with the bmw how unfair not to give him a shout out unless he didnt want it. i'll be keeping an eye on you fellas nice pack of iron you guys are sporting.
Good job using the correct correction factor (SAE J1349)! Most people use the old J607 (STD) because it shows more. There is a reason that SAE changed the calculation in 1990...because J607 was overly optimistic. The gear ratio value is how many RPM change per 1mph of drum speed change. 52.51rpm for each 1mph of drum speed increase. 52.22 vs 52.51 is basically nothing (0.29rpm per mph difference). Tire wear, tire pressure differences, etc, will all affect this as the rollout of the tire may be different since your runs are 7 months apart.
Thank you very much for explaining the gear ratio. I put on new tires so it makes sense why mine would be different. Tire pressures increase during the runs make sense. Rob's car went from 59.79, to 66.66, to 62.59. Does this suggest tire spin, or is it because of how the torque convertor comes in? I suspect convertor slippage would affect this number.
@@SS454LS6 Since your cars are likely running non-lockup converters, this number will change as there is no "lockup" between the engine RPM and output shaft speed in any gear. You might have even opened the runfile with RPM as the bottom axis setting and had the software ask you which gear ratio to display...it does this if there are multiple gear ratios in the run. This is also done so that if you run a vehicle in multiple gears (say 2nd and 3rd) during one dyno run, when you pick RPM as the bottom axis, it has to pick which RPM portion to display, and this is differentiated by the gear ratio (different per gear).
Also had a 72 nova 454 60 over aluminum heads stock rods 5:13 rear 3.08 first gear 8 in converter 7000 stall custom intake predator carb ran high to mid 9s on a 14/32 slick never knew hp guess it was around 700
@@jaredmayer3960 HMMM. That's odd. I've had a Holley 750 DP on my Chevelle for years. Never had one problem out of it. Unlike your "Carter" there. Maybe you should revisit Holley and solicit a good carb tech. Then you may not have a problem laidened pile-o-crap. Just a thought.
@@theariesexperiment4642 yeah I don’t think so. You’re sounding pretty amateur there. Carb tech sounds like a made up “thing” bro. And I don’t need to solicit some loser to “tinker” on my shit. One day your balls will drop.
That nu skool import ls junk don't ever sound as good as a good ol sbc, I have great memories with barb in my malib made her happy with the vibrtans gobbless
Would be nice to cruze with u guys ! Dad is building a 70 chevelle I got a 49 chevy with 454 would be nice to race u lol 😆 let me know man any time for fun ofcourse 😉
“Even with a turbo 400 automatic” if you used anything else behind the 502 it would scatter like leaves in a fall wind. There really is no other choice.
My 1970 Buick stage 1 in a 85 regal ran mid 9s huge cam tons of head work av gas worked intake also trick carb modified oil galley and returns Buicks suck .it was just over 700 to the wheels 5:13 rear 6500 stall 2 speed ati proglide hand machine flywheel nobody made a good one in 92
All the chevy guys around here have 550 to 700hp with their iron head small blocks... well, they *say* they do. When a mild 455 puts some bus lengths on them, they claim they were spinning. Its amusing. They won't run my 467 or the 505, not sure why. They talk about how slow Pontiac is, but they won't line up. I run some FiTech systems on my GTOs, the O2 reading is based on he algorithm that includes the cubic inch put in the ECM. Its most apparent running ethanol, my wideband says one thing the FiTech another, and if I change the CID in the set up, the wideband changes and the FiTech reads the same as its trying to hit the target based on the parameters input into it. Thats with my Mean Street that I bought in 2016. I haven't tried the dual quad I picked up this year, it won't fit my tunnel ram and I haven't put the 6-71 on anything yet.
A lot of ppl have huge power but the car doesn't back up the claims. A lot of the same guys making the "spinning for half the track" claims can barely squawk the tires out of the hole. Very interesting info on the o2 sensor. I will need to do some research on that. Thank you
The term muscle car gets very outa of hand. Just because they call it a muscle car don’t mean it actually have muscle. Infact their was very engines of the day that produced serious HP. In the chevelle it was really just 1 that was readily available that was 396 big block high performance. They made another 396 but it wasn’t high performance. The 426 hemi was another and corvette has the ZL1 witch made great power. But the 440 olds, the 350s was not performer engines. Despite what everyone thinks. Now ther Chevy nova in only 2 yrs made a 327 high performance that was truly a badass. But 98% of the so called muscle cars was not fast.
Back in the day Hot Rod Magazine's definition of a Muscle Car was a mid sized family car with the engine from a full size car that could run 14's or quicker in the 1/4... so they all pretty much fit the definition... even 327's, 330's, 350's, 354's, 383's, 389's, 390's, 396's, 400's with some tuning and rear end gears could make that... Of course, we preferred the 2 door models... but wouldn't bad mouth the guy with a 4 door (too much)... And, considering the year, we kinda let '36 Buick coupe 320" straight 8 OHV and '49 Olds Super 88 in as well... but no Hudsons... LOL!
I LOVE MUSCLE CARS. BUT TELL YOU WHAT. SINCE I BOUGHT A REDEYE CHALLENGER, I LOOK AT THESE CARS LIKE MODEL T'S. SLOW. POOR HANDLING. BRAKES WERE TERRIBLE. I REMEMBER HAVING TO 2 FOOT THE BRAKES IN THE OLD DINOSAURS. JUST NO GOING BACK FOR ME AT THIS POINT. ALSO, ONCE A LS MOTOR HAS BEEN CRACKED OPEN....YOU CAN NEVER GET AN HONEST HP RATING FROM ONE. NOT MANY REBUILD THEM BACK TO STOCK. ALWAYS A CAM...A LITTLE PORTING ETC. SO THESE NUMBERS DONT MEAN ANYTHING AS TO THE OLD MYTH OF THESE ACTUALLY BEING WAY MORE THAN 450HP STOCK.
Congratulations on the switch to new and better technology. I have a big block with manual steering which is almost impossible to park without gritting your teeth. The car smells rich at the tailpipes. Burns way to much fuel. The clutch pedal is super hard to press. Has an old car smell. But whenever I drive it the feeling is priceless. Sorry for your loss
THAT DYNO IS CALIBRATED. YOUR NUMBERS WERE LOW BECAUSE YOU DID NOT TAKE INTO ACCOUNT FRICTIONAL HORSEPOWER LOSS THROUGH THE DRIVETRAIN. RWHP IS WHERE ITS AT. ENGINE DYNO DOESNT MEAN A THING ON THE STREET. ITS OK THOUGH. SURELY YOU DIDNT GET INTO CHEVELLES WITH THE INTENTIONS OF BEING FAST....LOL.
We accounted for that. For me in particular, comparing with my previous dyno session is the biggest comparison. 5 rwhp will not gain me 2 mph in the 1/4 mile.
@@SS454LS6 A single PB is not a measure to use for anything. There are unlimited variables that could have each played a little part in that single run. It is a single measurement at a specific time. What is the car doing consistently is the telling part.
