is this ground related to the blinkers by any chance? I had my radiator restored and when i got the c3 back the blinkers where no longer working. No lights, no dash, no sound, completely dead
Blow by will escape by the path of least resistance. When the valve cover cap is off, the blow by will go out of the hole. When the cap is on, the blow by forces the PCV open, and then the blow by gets sucked into the intake. If the paper doesn't get sucked in, then the PCV valve is not working.
I like your Supertone banjo restoration videos. Are you a clawhammer style player? My son is a musician. He received an old banjo from my grandmother when she passed away, and had someone restore it for him. It looks and sounds great.
Hi Jeremy, that is a coolant line that is routed through the manifold. This is intended to warm up the manifold to help keep fuel atomized (no droplets of fuel) while going into the combustion chamber.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop thank you, great idea as well. Did you end up ever adding an air inlet as another commenter mentioned or is the setup working well without one?
Thank you. If you are rebuilding your gearbox, be sure to read the comments other viewers have made about the re-assembly. This additional information may also be useful.
How did you get your fabricated bracket and nut into a position to rivet into place? Did the piece fit through the tiny hole in the access compartment or did you insert the plate through another opening? Thank you very much
I used a scrap piece of wire that was knotted at one end. The knot was on the backside (welded side) of the bracket and through one of the rivet holes. The wire/bracket was then just pulled through the compartment and the B pillar. If that doesn't make sense, let me know.
Thank you. I think I understand. You went through the wheel well access panel, then used the wire to pull your bracket the the small circular inside the access panel opening /pillar (size of a 50 cent piece) to get the bracket over the exterior part of the body in order to rivet it into place. I originally thought I would just be able to place the bracket inside the access compartment to rivet the bracket to the outside. I didnt realize there was another small compartment only accessible via that small 50 cent piece sized hole. I looked all around to figure out how to get the bracket against that outside of the body. I will give it a shot to go through the small hole. Thank you
This was either a cream ale or SMaSH IPA. No Honey. Whichever batch it was, OG was typical, and FG was at the low end of range (great attenuation). Sorry I can't completely answer your question.
Thanks for the video. What if when you get the mechanical part open and the contacts where you slide down to get everything moving are stuck together, almost like it took a surge and made a small weld. I pried apart pushed down where you did, but nothing. I'm not sure what angle that contact arm should be at mine is at about 9 o'clock or straight out to the left looking from behind. My solenoid wire is not broke. So I guess I'm asking what should I do if my mechanical portion is inoperative. Trash and by new clock??
It sounds like the mechanical portion may have gotten contaminated (dirt, dust). Electricity doesn't flow through that part, so it shouldn't be welded. The armature wire is also too thin to support an arc. I'd suggest trying to clean it with sewing machine oil and blast with canned air. If you can't get it to work then sell it on ebay because it is usually the coil that fails. Or buy one with a bad coil and rebuild it. Good luck and don't get discouraged. This is pretty fragile stuff.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Your help is so appreciative Thank you. Finished your advice above and my clocks mechinacal side works now, but temporally. It cycles for approximately 10 minutes and stays closed and stops. i have noticed that my battery voltage has been drained when this happens anywhere from 14vdc to 7vdc. When I disconnect the ground it starts running again as above 10 minutes at a time. The only thing I can think to do know is either change the coil or put it back in the case and see if it's just not making a good connection out of the housing. Thanks again for your knowledge.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Thanks again. thats kinda what i was thinking with the outer case off not making a good ground. Also i was using an old battery with a charger on it.
No. There are not 3 bolts that hold the headlamp cowl (not "housing"--they don't "house" anything) on. There are two bolts and one stud with nut. If you have three bolts, the DPO of your car has messed with it.
Definitely squeeze out any excess oil from the new felt seal. Here’s a tip - save the metal backing from the old felt seal. It is a perfect drift to seat the new seal. Just lay it over the new felt, and tap it I . An added benefit is it will squeeze out any remaining excess oil.👍
Thank you very much for these videos Mike - I have a '69 Vette and need all the assist I can get with these vehicles! I have the AIM, but videos such as yours help greatly.
Hi William. There is no air inlet except through piston ring blow by. The oil cap is sealed. If there is no crankcase pressure, the PCV is shut. If the needs to be consideration of an additional air inlet, I'm all ears.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Air has to get in somewhere for the system to flow. I've seen references to a leak at the oil dipstick, or drilling a 5/32 hole in the oil filler cap. I purchased today the pcv valve you recommeded and installed it. I may go the 5/32 route for the air supply.
Nice one, Mike. I’d have called calf-rope at the “I have to take out the whole assembly” point, and only driven on clear, dry days from then on until I found a shop to bail me out. You, however…are a champ!
Hey Jack! Sometimes I don't know what I'm getting myself into, but life's a bit boring if you don't get yourself into trouble. My goal is to make everything on the car work. It's not a show car by any means, but everything is going to work (except for the horrid seat belt warning, I hate those things). Hope all is well in Texas. By the way, what's the story with the red Firebird/Trans Am?
@MikeHammill-TheShop great video, I've got to repair my clock. Just picked up a 77 vette 6 days ago. I noticed a cutoff switch on my battery while jumping it off this evening. I'll double check it tomorrow, hopefully it's installed on the ground. My 9 month old battery is 650 cold cranking amps. It's really embarrassing trying to start it. What size battery do you use?
Thanks for posting Mike. My 1970 Wiper Door was lifting up at start up and stayed in up position. After I turn off ignition, Wiper Door still under pressure but eventually able to push down manually. Headlights including override working perfectly. I verified and re-verified that all vacuum lines are connected as per the 1970 Corvette schematic. What I have completed trying to repair..... > Tested and replaced Windshield Wiper Arm Vacuum arm. (It did test bad) > Tested and replaced the Vacuum system Air Filter. > Tested and replaced the Wiper Door Vacuum System Check Valve. > Tested and replaced the Wiper Door Actuator Vacuum Relay. (tested bad) > Tested/replaced leaking Windshield Wiper Door Actuator Seals. (seals leaking) I also pulled the vacuum hose connected to the override switch under the dash and it was getting vacuum. Since everything else has tested correctly, the only thing I can see that is left was the Wiper Door Vacuum Control Solenoid (thanks to your video) that is attached behind the tach. I tried to do without removing the seats but to no avail. I removed the seats and it was still a pain to take out and put the new one in. Thankfully, replacing the solenoid solved my issue and the wiper door functions as it should. Like you said, hope I never have to do that again! I shared your information on 1970C3 Corvette Owners Connection on FACEBOOK. facebook.com/groups/889792661437505
No, it was hard enough crawling under the dash with a shop light and screw driver trying to get at the Solenoid. I was able to get a picture of the Solenoid attached to the back of the tach. Think you were missing that in your video. It took me at least 2 hours, if not longer. @@MikeHammill-TheShop
1972 Chevrolet Service Manual www.themotorbookstore.com/1972-chevrolet-service-manual.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyMWb75DPgwMVjyzUAR3LrAeuEAQYAiABEgK-PvD_BwE
I was able to get the runout down to 0.003". I think the new felt oil seal was too thick and caused rotor/hub misalignment. I put the old seal back in and was able to tighten up the assembly while rotating the rotor/hub. Thanks to all your input and suggestions. It helped develop the troubleshooting game plan!
Measure the rotor again then mark the low and high points and then do the same with the hub. If the POINTS line up, check the bearing. If not its the rotor.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop I wasnt sure how the hub was scured on your car but i have found with some cars the bearing be the problem. I must know what did you find?
I was able to get the runout down to 0.003". I think the new felt oil seal was too thick and caused rotor/hub misalignment. I put the old seal back in and was able to tighten up the assembly while rotating the rotor/hub. Thanks for helping!
@michaelstoliker971 I think I got lucky keeping it off my skin, but as I get older I tend to remember the good and forget the bad. So who knows. Thanks for the smile today!
That's the beauty of Kveik yeast. Primary fermentation is completed in 48 hours, and there are no off flavors. Of course, yeast strains do impart flavor on the brew. So you have to figure out what is best for yours. Check them out!
@@italianharly make sure the brake shoes are adjusted so they don't contact inside of the rotor. You may need back off the star adjuster until the rotor goes on.
Hey Mike - was able to install the RTMR under the dash where the heater core was...but have a few questions pertaining to your video versus your wiring diagram. (Thanks in advance!) 1. In your video - you just have a white/red wiring going to the SS from the ignition switch only - but in your wiring diagram you have KW ballast wire connected to the white wire thru the drive resistor to the Dizzy...and the WY from SS to the Coil (+)...what is the correct wiring? (And what is the other wire on the spade along with the white/red attached to the SS in your video?) 2. In the video you have a white wire coming from the ignition switch going to Coil (+)...again in your wiring diagram you have the WY from SS to the Coil (+)...which is correct? As an FYI - I installed the Pertronix today and went ahead and grabbed a Flamethrower Coil as they were bundled on sale...I assume I no longer need the drive resistor or ballast - correct? (I am assuming the video is correct wiring versus the wiring diagram) Again - thank you so much!!
Hi Scott, Great to hear about your progress on the RMTR! I think the video below will answer your questions. Sorry to have provided you with an improperly edited As Built wiring diagram. No, there should not be a ballast resistor or the wire. See this video --> studio.ru-vid.comFE0wbBt2SJI/edit
Morning Mike, a quick question if I may... Just looking at the replacement release bearing for the clutch and it's 4m, thinner than the one that is on the car. The one on the car is 20mm and the new one from Borg & beck is 16mm. There are some posts related to this topic on some forums. Any experience with this or thoughts? Thank you in advance.
Hi Piyal, I've never gotten to that level of detail. I replaced the clutch and release bearing once on my Spitfire and just bought what was available from the supply source. Sorry I cannot be more helpful.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Thanks Mike for the speedy response, I´ll get it sorted I'm sure. Have a good day. BTW, I noticed that you brew. Is this commercially or as a hobby. I myself distill spirits as a side business.
@piyalfernando2785 Brewing is a hobby for me. I grow my own hops, (Cascade because they grow in Florida) for some of my ales. I recently made a Kartofflebier. One of my favorites so far. What do you distill?
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Great to hear Mike, sounds nice ... I distill Vodka, Gin, Moonshine and Whisky at my still at home, all from scratch. Commercially, I sell 3 sorts of Gin. I do the recipe at home and then outsource the production to a craft distillery in Belgium. I hope that you are not too affected by the recent bad weather Mike.
Hey Mike, hello from Germany. I'm completely re-building my 1500 Spitfire and looked at your gearbox video for help. It's excellent, really helpful, keep up the great work and I will also contribute in time. Take care.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Hi Mike, no I don't and to be honest, not even sure what it is :-) but I will do some research. I'm pretty handy with cars, have just rebuilt the complete engine from ground up and now tackling the gearbox and then onto the rest of the car. I also rebuilt a 65 VW Beetle fully as well as an Old Peugeot 405 cabriolet. You also seem also to be an enthusiast, really geat ti see the passion, as you know, it's a lot of time invested. All the best.
