Learn about fruit tree care with Susan Poizner of OrchardPeople.com. Explore videos about fruit tree pruning, when to fertilize fruit trees, whip and tongue grafting and so much more! You can also watch Susan's monthly radio show and podcast about fruit trees, food forests, and permaculture. Grow a more fruitful garden or orchard! Find out how at OrchardPeople.com.
Thank y’all for this, I’m 30 minutes into this but before I forget are y’all saying the lower the Brix score the less nutritional value is going to be in the food? (Based on my common sense and taste buds I can tell the difference between let’s say Krogers/publix and the farmers market or dudes selling out the back of their trucks) But then based off of other webinars I think it’s 3-7 brix is the max score any gmo fruit will be capable of. So is eating a low brix fruit idk how to word this but is it similar to eating celery where there’s no nutritional value but your body uses energy to process it?
My pear gets attacked by pear slugs(saw fly), they don’t seem to care about my other fruit trees. Japanese beetles attacked my raspberries. Flea Beatles attack my eggplant. Vine borers my zucchini, cucumber Beatles…. You get the point. Are they all at different brixs? Or do they know what they like? Can I just feed the plant sugar?
Great questions! You can test the brick and see what they need! Nigel’s book will help you: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HQirgcu6lJY.htmlsi=JMqIj3nDa8as_3uo and www.nigel-palmer.com/
A good source of cold hardy hybrid persimmons in the US would be England's Orchard and Nursery. He grows American, and many hybrids from Ukraine and Russia. While he no longer does mail order, he propagates and sells many. His many acre persimmon orchard with dozens of varieties is certainly worth the trip to eastern Kentucky.
So I've just bought some property with them already established 5 years on and I am pruning them back and I'm hoping I'm doing it correctly because they're already starting to Bud and I will see
hello, we live in the county and our young plum and apple trees are infested with plum curculio. Is using nematodes any benefit when there are wild infested apple trees all around us? My neighour is continually planting random apples she grows from seed all down our roadway, and they're all infested. I'm trying to decide if it's even worth trying to fight the issue or just remove the trees altogether and use the land for something else. Thank you!
Yikes. that's a challenge. One approach is to use a “trap crop” method. This involves using one of your neighbor’s trees (with their permission) as a lure for the plum curculio. Use a lure specifically designed for plum curculio to attract them to the trap tree. Once the pests are concentrated there, wait until the fruit falls to the ground and the pests are in their larval stage. Then you can apply beneficial nematodes to the soil around that tree. The nematodes will help reduce the plum curculio population for next year by targeting the larvae in the soil.
Hi I am in Ottawa and didn’t realize we have to spray when apples are dormant. Apple scab has developed on my Macintosh and golden delicious Apple trees. I found Safers sulphur dust. It says it can be used upto one day before harvest. Can I use it on the leaves while my tree still has fruit or wait till next autumn to use dormant spray. It’s my first year with these Apple trees as I planted them last year in fall. Please advise.
Use your spray as per the instructions. It won't fix the infected fruit but will prevent the spread. In the fall, be sure to clean up all diseased fallen fruit and leaves meticulously and get it off the site (not in the compost). That will get rid of a lot of the pathgens so you will have less of a problem next year. Next year be sure to use dormant spray correctly. You might be interested at some point in Certificate in Fruit Tree Care at Learn.OrchardPeople.com. Hope this helps!
please make a video on how to manage aphids (green and black). Even chemical pesticides do not work effectively. A few years before no major infestation was visible but from last two years infestation is growing in many cycles
I've had the best luck because we have a huge pollinator garden near our trees with flowers blossoming throughout the season. It attracts beneficials like lady bugs that then feast on any aphids that appear on the trees. But other you may find other options here! share.transistor.fm/s/41a67aa6
@@Orchardpeople I found some lady bugs but the number was very small and infestation was very high. We had to spray insecticide(Thiomethoxin) because the honey dew was getting too high. I also observed that lady bugs work in good temperature but here the temperature remains low and little times they come out to feed on aphids.
@@mathisbeautiful747 I'm sorry to hear that! Keep improving the health of your tree and soon it will be less appealing for insect pests. You might want to check out my book Grow Fruit Trees Fast (available on Amazon) for info on how to improve tree health!
It depends what tree. You can prune out dead/diseased branches whenever you want. In terms. of healthy branches, you can prune up to mid summer. So we prune our cherry trees after harvest. But if you harvest in October (apples for instance), it's too close to the winter. If there are frosts near you, the tree won't have time to heal the wound and cells can be damaged in the frost. It sounds like it's not a big deal, but we are trying to make our trees stronger and more resilient in the long term.
So Southern Minnesota is getting pounded with rain. Like, well over a foot in my yard, so far, just in the last 4 weeks... My Peach trees were just put in in late April early May. Can they be temporarily removed from the swampy ground? The water is over the top of my feet everywhere in the yard. The leaves are turning a pale purple ish color. No more glossy green. Is it too late for them?
Oh goodness. That's terrible! I would not dig them up and move them though. It will damage the roots and the damage will be worse. But while removing the trees isn’t practical, but you can improve the situation by adding a thick layer of mulch around the base of the trees to help absorb some of the excess water and improve drainage. Avoid piling the mulch directly against the tree trunks to prevent rot. If possible, create channels or trenches to divert water away from the trees. While this situation is challenging, taking these steps can help alleviate some of the stress on your peach trees. I am often surprised at how well fruit trees can recover with the right care.
Mulching solves so many issues - watering included. The soil medium remains moist for much longer and insect activity makes the medium much more porous - great for receiving air as well as water.
I’ve got 4 cherry trees I grew from red cherry seeds I bought at ALDIs. They are growing great but didn’t blossom plus they are developing some sort of warts on the stems that chokes the stems. I saw a video that explains why cherry trees grown from seeds are a genetic roll of the dice and lots of times they go back to the wild sour variety. I have native Tennessee plum trees I wanted to take cuttings from and graft into the wild cherry root stock. I could tale cuttings from the cherry trees in the back yard to graft into the wild root stock but I would rather do the plum. You said in the show that plum and cherry doesn’t work. Is that incompatibility constant or are there exceptions since the wild natural Tennessee plum is wild and natural snd the cherry is also gone back to a wild genetics?
Sorry for the delay! I myself am not an expert on this, but I did some research and I found that grafting Tennessee plum cuttings onto wild cherry rootstock is usually not successful due to genetic incompatibility, even with wild varieties. It’s best to graft cherry cuttings onto your wild cherry trees instead. If you want to grow plums, plant plum rootstock and graft your Tennessee plum cuttings onto those for better results. Hope that helps!
I signed up for Chip-Drop over a year ago and still no chips. But I live in a rural area. My question is we have a lot of Black Walnut trees in our area and would like to know if chipped up black walnut would be ok for around my fruit trees because of the Juglone?
I think Linda would say it’s ok as long as it is used on top of the soil - don’t mix it in with the soil. But personally, I wouldn’t use it. I wouldn’t want to take the chance!
The risk is getting anything sprayed with PastureGard Herbicide. Because it takes a long time to break down.The patent holder will not even estimate how long it takes to break down.
01:51 is why this is unclear to us. "...a couple of days...weeks..." Keep it saturated for days? How many days. Oh, weeks? How many weeks? Keep it saturated but let it dry out. Huh??
I wish I could be more specific on that. The problem is that it all depends on your soil. Ultimately, we really have to learn how to feel the soil to understand if it’s saturated or not. Sandy soil will dry out really quickly. Clay soil holds onto moisture. It’s complicated so I do understand your frustration!
@@Orchardpeople Yeah. I know. My trees are doing alright. But a mystery animal dug up one of my Dawn Redwood saplings a couple days ago and only left a hole.😓😓😓
Should I respray after a rainstorm or wait until the next scheduled spray. Does the rain wash the spray off? Or does the spray remain effective? thanks
I’m so glad he confirmed NOT to cut the main terminal off to fill in each cordon before allowing it to grow upright. I’ve been letting mine grow and seeing success for several years. If I have a cordon not cooperating, I can make a notch or graft a bud to fill it in.
Glad you liked the interview! I’m sure I’ll have him back one day. We are lucky to have him as a monthly guest in the monthly meetup group that I have for my students at learn.orchardpeople.com.
Thank you for this video! I made a stupid mistake and didn't realize the fertilizer that was bought was much stronger than I wanted. I noticed early and have been watering deeply. There is some leaf damage, but i think the new leaves emerging leaves are looking healthier. I will have to monitor these plants for the season, I think, but I think the damage has been largely reduced.
Yes, I made that video a while back. There’s lots of detailed shots in my online grafting course at learn.orchardpeople.com if you ever want to take a deep dive into grafting!
This was fun for me. I really enjoyed it. I use ChipDrop so I know about. I had never heard of Linda, but will visit her website. I am a new fruit tree enthusiast and am looking for land to plant fruit trees on. I live near Portland, OR. so most of what she knows about trees would be relevent, because we are both in the Pacific N.W.
Chip Drop is great now I am in town. Get deliveries in hours somedays. However when we were a few miles out of town I guess the dump was closer and gas to get there cheaper than to get to our place.
I have used chip drop several times. It is awesome. Yes it’s a large load, fortunately I have some room to place the chips and I have chips decomposing into beautiful soil. The arborists will drop it where I ask and mark the spot.
wish yo had shown the actual cuts and limbs and why... how to shape as going through an entire bush with explanations. This was so choppy I could not see what was really being done
Very informative!! I have one doubt, this winter we didn't had a snow fall, only few rainfall spells. My question is that, does irrigation is recommended in this situation( wjnter)? As of now , Some of Trees are stressed. Is it water stress due to lack of winter precipitation ?
Sorry for the delay. It's so hard to know! The trees could be stressed by extreme cold weather too. And trees don't take in much new moisture during the winter months. I hope that they have recovered by now!
Hi. Do you have any information about the depth to which the roots of the B9 or B10 rootstock can reach? I have a 40-inch water table with a well drained soil. I would like to get more information about the behavior of the roots. Thank you
I have seen the citrus planters with removable sides in place Versailles, France. The oldest citrus tree is over 175 years old! Here is an overview of the planter: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qKcOMt3mMVc.htmlsi=Yl8wGjz4-1us-fmh
