My name is Chris, but Yogi is good :) I have always loved making things for as long as I can remember. I have a particular passion for woodworking. Hand tools are my preferred instruments and I try to utilise them whenever the time or situation allows. I also create Royalty Free Music for makers to use in their RU-vid videos. I am originally from England but now I live in Eastern Central Europe. I started this channel as a way to show and share ideas. If you find what I do interesting then please subscribe to my channel, like and share my videos. I have many ideas to share and will be uploading as often as I can :) Namaste ॐ
I'd like to make one of these, but I wonder if you could devise a sort of detent that holds the rig in place once you rotate to a new side. Seems like without one it will just automatically rotate back to whatever's heaviest on the bottom when you let go. Any ideas after using it for all those years?
I'm tired of buying bar and pipe clamps. I'm making these and making them look nice like displays in my small shop. Thanks for the inspiration and instruction sir.
It would help if, when sharpening the spokeshave blade, you position the camera so that the audience can see what you are doing. All I see is the back of your left arm and hand.
With the sun shining through the window and onto your back, there is no light on your hands and it is hard to see what you are doing. Please shine a light on what you are doing.
Hello, I just purchased the same vintage spokeshave and discovered that one of the tangs are cracked off! is there a way of repairing and or welding it back onto the blade? ... please let me know. Thank you, dee
I'm lucky enough to get access to a fifty foot tall ancient hornbeam tree that has toppled over at my nephew's in England UK. I can't wait to get the lumbar to use on projects. It is such a dense wood that doesn't compress easily. They use it for skittles!! I may make some floorboards for my barn upstairs.... the offcuts are superb burning wood too apparently. Thank you Mother Nature....
Wow I have to try that. At first glance I wouldn't think it would work becauase the cutting edge should have a steeper angle and taper down to a shallower angle at trailing edge, no? they way standard drill bits are? Certainly looks like your method works though.
Before you toss out an old one because you have an electric screwdriver--wait! These are not a direct substitute if you are driving 100 screws into a wood project. But I have keep mine in my electrical pouch for 50 (ya, five-oh!) years. No batteries, and no more bulk than a regular screwdriver, yet perfect for speeding up installation of outlets, switches, and plates.
Hi. I love the design you have created. When you created the 45° angle slots for thickness adjustment, did you test other angles such as 30°? If so what results did you get? What about the length of the planing bed. Did you try longer beds? Again with what results? I ask these questions as I do a lot of thin strips for Kumiko and inlaying. And your design looks perfect for me. I also have thought about scraping to thickness as well on such a rig. Have you tried that?
Love it. It's strong, has plenty of room, looks great and works well. I think I'll build something similar this week, as I keep finding my hammers all over the place :)
I bought one of these from BG a while ago. I must have got a faulty one because my pencil does not hold tight, I might try wrapping a bit of tape round the pencil to make it tighter. On most Chinese tools I have, I have found the tolerances are far to broad and the finish rather poor.
I was thinking it would be cool if the back, instead of opening wider/narrower to tune, have the back go deeper in to or out of the chamber. You could have one panel be stationary, attach a threaded shaft to a second panel. The threaded shaft would have to thread through a nut embedded in the stationary panel. The tip of the threaded shaft would have to be modified so that it spins freely inside the movable panel within the chamber. Attach a wing nut and a regular nut at the end to make a knob to turn. Essentially, it would be like an adjustable plunger you could use to tune each block.
Just asking (as I do not have all these fancy tools). Why do you need to cut holes in the long part? I was planning just to take 2x4, 2 pieces lets say 22 inches long and 2 pieces lets say 5 inches long. Then screw them all together with 4 crews on each side, 2 on each joint. I would then screw a zinc handle. Would that work?
When mounting to the bench using 4 screws, do you use t-nubs or threaded inserts under the bench? How do you keep the threads in the bench from wearing out after multiple mounts/dis-mounts (assuming using the same holes)? Btw, i thought you were a gymnast, instead of 40 year practicing yogi :-) thank you.
