Welcome to iRepair iDevices. We specialize in board level repairs. Using the proper tools and equipment is very important in this line of work. When we say "board level repair", we mean being able to work with components that are as small as a grain of salt. We do our very best to find the best solution(s) to solve your problem.
We are a mail in service and if you are interested in a repair, please email us.
Here are just a brief list of repairs we do.
Smartphones/iPhones - back light issues - phone not powering "ON" - issues with phone after screen replacement - charging issues - touch screen issues (grey bars, lag or unresponsive) - water damage (a repair on this will be ONLY for data recovery)
Tablets - back light issues - unit not powering "ON" - touch screen unresponsive - charging issues
Game Consoles - HDMI port replacements - DVD Drive errors - power issues - over heating
Drone - motor issues - motherboard
Laptops/Macbooks - unit not powering "ON" - data recovery
Did you ever make a 3D printer version of the elevator worm gear nut? I would love to buy some if they are available. I enjoy your videos. Very instructive and helpful. Jerry
Hi, are you still here doing these repairs? Would you possibly sell me a few of those threaded plastic parts that break so often? I do enjoy your channel. Thanks!
Amazing video..Have a Bose AWRC22 and 3 disc changer. The changer initially did the skipping thing and only chattered on eject. Now it chatters whenever play is attempted in all slots. Bought it used recently, so I am unsure but am going to try what you did in this video. Question, though. The main unit is "picky" sometimes about cds, meaning it won't take certain cds in to load to play o4 It takes a couple tries for the "roller syetem to take it into the init to play. Is this normal? If not, is there some way to address the issue without dissasembly..? As an addendum when the pickiness occurs, unless I wait until "reading disc" and then "disc error sets while the disc is sitting in the slot halfway in it scratches the play side of the disc also. Any assistance with this would be much appreciated. NOTHING addressing the main unit "selectiveness" is online..
Hey Friend, I have the exact same one.. But mines giving a very broken noise when playing music... I've also tried connecting without the woofer... And playing it directly on another speaker... And.. Still it's the same broken noisy music.... Could you please help
In French the "R" is silent. and it is pronounced Pel-tee-ay, Not Peltiee-R. No, I'm not French. I took French in College. The rest is very good. Good Teacher!
Hi Lisa. I have a CD-3000. Power amp where you replaced the fuse that part is good. I’m having an issue with the top board where the display connect to. I’m suspecting a capacitor issue? Not sure where to start
I have this same unit. Would you be willing to look at it for me?. Mines not lighting up or making sound. It has some sentimental value to me and I'd love to get it repaired
Hey first thanks for the help now my display work again but i have the problem that my Audio Output have no signal. I already swapped the U101 without any result. Can you help me?
Hello, nice video...i have Bose CD3000 from 1998 that started making a buzzing sound and not sure how to fix...i removed power cord for a few min hoping that would take care of it but seems the culprit is elsewhere.
I do offer mail in repairs within the United Statesm. You're more than welcome to email at irepairidevices2@gmail.com and I will be glad to quote you a repair price.
There are several possibilities on the problem you mentioned above. You're more than welcome to email me at: irepairidevices2@gmail.com and I'll be glad to quote you a mail in repair price.
I just found your channel! I picked up this same unit. I took it apart to clean it up because it was nasty from age and neglect. It was working fine except for the cd player. I got it all back together and accidentally plugged the main PCB board in backwards :( when i powered it up. Nothing came on even when i flipped the plug back around as it should be. Do you think i blew a fuse or is the whole unit toast now :(
Well without seeing the device in person. It is possible fuses are blown. Double check your connection making sure they are plugged in the correct orientation and that they are seated snuggly in the place and if all the connectors are properly in place and it still doesn't turn on, then you'll have to check the power rails to determine where the fault lies. If you're interested I can definitely quote you a repair price. I offer mail in repairs. Email me at irepairidevices2@gmail.com if you're interested in a quote.
Hi there. Many thanks for your video. Very interesting. Just out of curiosity, did you check what DC voltage was actually across the offending capacitor when it was working incase of a misprint on the schematic schematic? Kind regards Allan.
Depending which schematics you have some show output values while others do not. The ones I have show both depending on the rails. The ones that do not I make my own log for future references. When it comes to these units I am not looking at voltage values in this particular situation. I am looking at the CAPS value and the ESR value. My troubleshooting approach will vary depending on the unit and the fault at hand. Kind regards Lisa