The SS Workshop Channel is dedicated to following my home workshop projects, specialising in metalwork and machining. My current project is the "Fell Engine Project" follow the construction of my first live steam locomotive I'm building from scratch using my own drawings.
4:14 if you are a student you can get access to inventor for free on auto desks website. If not there is a private license of solid works that is $50 a year
Another thing I have to say is most other softwares I have used don’t allow you to sketch and move the different parts at the same time. You have to make the parts then put them into an assembly. However it is possible to reference other parts by drawing in the assembly. One use case could be screws that move whenever you change the location of a hole .
Great video, I just recieved my ER32 collet, and block set, first time user. I want to be sure on how to use them properly, thanks to your video I can use them with confidence, THANKS
They were developed from the E series collet by the Swiss tooling firm Rego-Fix and patented by them in 1973. The E series, which I believe are now obsolete, didn't have the circumferential groove in the collet nor the eccentric in the nut. So ER started as a marketing name and became a widely recognised reference term.
Guess I'm seeing this a little late, but what was up with the gears I saw sitting above the frame and below the boiler? You got your mouse on one of them at 7:23
@adformer9212 well spotted, The loco I’m building uses the fell system with a third rail drive for climbing steep inclines. Here’s link to a video of how it works ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3tX2qs2q5-0.htmlsi=wEtGnyt3PK4KyNL2
Hi found some good info on your channel thanx,,I have a BF -20LV and have brought the Optimum DRO D695 from Machineryhouse,I havent opened the box yet but told it has ss strips for scales ,Do you or anybody who see's this, Are they any good for a DRO thanx for any help
Hi, i understand the optimum DRO uses magnetic scales. I used a ridged type magnetic scale DRO on my previous mill / lathe combo. They seemed to work fine, I don’t recall any issues. They were effectively just oversized digital calipers. The optimum DRO looks to just use flexible tape for the scale which would be easier to install I guess.
Man, *backlash has nothing to do* with a manual lathe, so it's just a made up "problem". While working as a turner back in the day at huge heavy industrial plants I never ever heard that any pro machinists there would ever mentioned such a word as "backlash". So stop bullshit your audience please cause there are lots of young people who may take you BS real.
2:20 is about the most critical... TIP GEOMETRY. get that wrong, and nothing else matters. look at how the inserts shape the chip so its NARROWER than the width of the slot. general practise on hss is to set the tip over a bit so it parts cleanly. and then what happens? the chip is WIDER than the slot. so what invariably then happens? CRUNCH. you have to split the tip, vee them out, so you have TWO edges cutting on either side of the groove, forcing the chip to fold in the middle and eject from the groove properly. push the split to the left of central, and it parts off the work neatly. done properly, you should end up with a lil nib that resembles a compression olive. barrel shaped.
Saved my bacon. I've never used a collet set before and thought it was broken or a rubbish cheap rip off. But as you said, in the video, All I needed to do was clip the jaws into the nut first, but I didn't do that the first time around and got the jaws locked into the body. After a struggle, I got them out then followed your instructions, and now it works just fine. Thanks very much buddy.
Same here. This video saved me. I was on the edge of sending my new collet set back and leaving a withering comment. Said in another way - i was on the brink of making a complete moron out of myself. But then i found this video. All of my 19 collets are fine, the holder is fine and the wrench also. And all that for under 80,- €.
I don’t turn much stainless but do quite a bit of mild steel, it parts ok but has a habit of digging in if the tool is to low, blunt or not smoothly advanced.
@@SS-Workshop I have the sieg C6, I use a riser block instead of the compound and have just finished a rear toolpost that I use with a tapered 2mm HSS blade for AL and Brass and a 2mm carbide insert tool for stainless and mild steel. The rear mounting has certainly improved things but the overall lack of rigidity is the main issue with the machine.As someone else has said constant feed pressure also helps so a motorised cross feed is something I am working on together with an electronic lead screw. However, if I were younger or more serious I would be looking for something heavier and greater rigidity.
@@michaellinahan7740 I might have to have a go at the rear mount, there is always room for improvement on what I’m doing now. I considered the solid riser but the thought of losing the compound has kept me away from it. I keep looking at bigger lathes just haven’t found a way to justify it yet! Cheers Chris.
Hi Keith, well spotted I glazed over that without showing. I scribed a line on both ends with the part pinned on a flat surface, at about 2:40 you can see the layout blue marks on one end where is was scribed. The drilling was done in a mill with the centre accurately located then offset. Cheers Chris
Do you have any comments in the rigidity of your optimum mill? I was looking at this model but I saw a review by a well respected engineer and his review suggests the quality (specifically the rigidity concerns) as a big concern…so much so that he’s given up on milling and uses the mill solely for drilling…would you please share your experiences in this regard? Thanks, Jim
Hi Jim, I have found it to be good for the work I have done. I usually run up to about 12mm end mills but also a 50mm face mill. My previous mill was a small combination lathe mill which I found to be no good as a mill. I think it really comes down to your expectation as benchtop mills are always going to be limited by the body size and weight.
I recently came across your build and have been binge watching in my spare time. I recently bought a lathe and am hoping to get a mill by spring. I am learning a lot watching you work. You're very thorough with explanations for the processes and very enjoyable to watch. I hope you can come back to the project soon.
Hi Jack, the project is on hold at the moment while I get some other projects around the house sorted but hope to continue sharing when I resume work on it. It will likely run at a local club once done. Cheers Chris
@@SS-Workshop Don't know if there is a 3.5" track in wellington, closest is picton I think or pamnua. Looking foward to the build, good luck. Thanks Jack
@@jackgonscak5239 interesting can’t say I checked. Maidstone would be my closest club which has a raised line but not sure if they have a 3.5. The build was the draw for me but would be nice to see it make an occasional run so will need to find a track at some point. Cheers Chris
Maidstone has 2.5", 3.5", 5", and 7 1/4". I think petone might have 3.5" as well. Currently we are looking to start a 3.5" and smaller convention similar to the CANMOD which has just taken place in chch which will probably be held Blenheim/Nelson so it's not to far for those over on that other island to join in 😝. Might give you something to work towards. If it makes you feel better my 3.5" rebuild I started at the same time you started which was to take 3 months is still going. Learnt the hard way to build and not buy 😂
@@jefferyfarrell thanks for that, I probably should pop up the road and take a look one of these days, plan B was a line in my backyard. You never know I might finish it one day…. Just got to stop finding excuses or stop letting them find me 😆. I hope all is well down your way, great to hear from you. Cheers Chris.
A very nice presentation, well done! I considered buying the Vertex HV-6 and looked up the user manual for it. In that manual are tables for two sets of index discs (they call them plates). The table for HV-6 with worm ratio 1:90 is denoted DP-1. There are both typos, omissions and errors in this table. (I have not yet checked the other table for the larger discs.) It's tedious and error prone to check the tables by hand so I wrote a computer program to compute a complete table, given a worm ratio and a set of discs. The DP-1 set has a theoretical number of 234 different divisions spanning from 1 to 4410. Not very practical for drilling hole circles, but maybe very large divisions are useful for engraving patterns or similar? An annoying fact is that 64 is missing in this set. The printed table in the manual stops at 100 divisions. For larger divisions, the table becomes more and more sparse. A snippet of a printout from the program follows below. If there is interest, I can present the complete list in a follow up comment. It should fit within the YT 10.00 character limit. Key to the table headings: T is the desired division H is the disc and hole track to be used N is the number of full turn cranks and stepped holes Ex. To get a division of 7 (the bolt circle on Kontax Stirling Engines LTDs :-), use the 21 hole circle on disc B and crank 12 full turns and 18 steps (holes) for each division. Disc A: 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 Disc B: 21, 23, 27, 29, 31, 33 Disc C: 37, 39, 41, 43, 47, 49 Worm ratio: 90 T H N 1 90 2 45 3 30 4 A-16 22 8/16 5 18 6 15 7 B-21 12 18/21 8 A-16 11 4/16 9 10 10 9 11 B-33 8 6/33 12 A-16 7 8/16 13 C-39 6 36/39 14 B-21 6 9/21 15 6 16 A-16 5 10/16 17 A-17 5 5/17 18 5 19 A-19 4 14/19 ... 4410 C-49 1/49
Thanks Paul, it doesn’t surprise me there are errors, the chart looks like it’s a copy of a copy so you have to wonder if the manufacturer has ever checked it. I have to say it would be quite annoying if you discovered this in the last tooth of a gear or hole in a bolt circle on a finished part.
Thanks Paul, will keep a print out with my dividing plates, I’m sure it will come in handy. Maybe not the 4000 ones not sure I can fit that many teeth on a gear haha 😂. As I say I doubt the manufacturer checked them, probably copied from somewhere else and miss typed or worked out long ago on paper and copied ever since. Cheers Chris
@@SS-Workshop I'l try to toss a printout into Excel to make it a little more legible. I don't guarantee that all data are correct, even though I believe they are. You can always make a simple safety check before you cut out everything that is not a gear wheel. If the table says T ... N H/steps, then this equality shall be true: T*(N*H + steps) = 90*H (I suppose your worm ratio is 90). This property is of course checked in my code just before printout, but ... there might be a bug in the CPU. 🙂