ClassicsAB is dedicated to working on & checking out classic cars & trucks (primarily 1950s to early 2000s) with maybe few modern cars thrown in from time to time. Please follow along as myself and friends build some of our own projects vehicles, feature other cool classics & even check out some car shows along the way. I aim to show that any one can get out and wrench on a classic, and make their car or truck just a little bit better regardless of your skill level. I am literally a guy wrenching in his backyard shop, if I can do it, any one can!
Great video. My radio, 2009 Chevy Silverado, keeps coming on/off without me touching the power button. If I push and hold the radio power button, it will turn off. But as soon as I stop holding the radio power button, it keeps coming on/off. Any suggestions?? Thanks!
Need PB Blaster, followed by heat, followed by cold, followed by heat, then try the wrench. Rinse & Repeat. If you break the bolt head, you are screwed, so take you time. Oh Yeah, and tap with a ballpeen hammer in between heat cycles just for grins
That coffee and sand trick is amazing! I’m really tempted to try this on my 59 Ford Consul… It’s currently satin black so I guess just a light coat of brown/red oxide first then a final layer of black on the coffee should give some good effects. Worst case is repaint it all black if it doesn’t work!
I think it came out great. I would go over those sponge spots with a really fine Scotch Brite. I think what looks unnatural is when you have two conflicting sheens. Also adding some different sizes of media into your coffee grounds will add to the randomness of the overall effect.
I used to do something similar with rock salt to battle distress paint nerf guns back in the day lol. It's what gave me the idea to put a medium down to remove. Works better on something small like a model, but you can also use mustard, paint over it when it dries and then flake it off. Thanks for watching.
On an 02 that left rear bolt is hard to reach when working from up top. I had helper round off the bolt while I was in process of moving the front driveshaft out of the way. The ujoint was stuck in the yoke and I was in proces sof freeing up when he thought he could put a 12 sided wrench on it when I said only 6 sided and round it be.. now I can reach it and could have taken it out.. we do not need heads so about to cut that bolt off.. but will try some bolt extractors sockets I have 1st in morning.. this whole design is not mechanic friendly, having to pull pulley off PS pump to access bolts, putting that accumulator on the AC lines on top of compressor blocking bolts to bracket, and tucking motor under when it could have been forward a few inches allowing us to reach those ground cables and other electrical at rear of engine.. think will pull intake off before yank out as replacement motor had its manifold cracked by salvage yard and we cannot risk damaging in process... Older SBC were so much easier to work on...
Dude you are preaching to the choir on placement, they should make some of these engineers wrench on this stuff so they see how ridiculous it is to spend 30min removing parts for a 3min job on something simple! I wish you luck on getting that bolt out, I have used a reverse drill bit with a 90 degree drill adapter to remove them before, it's a whole bunch of not fun!!
Sweet this video made me realize I can maybe fix my bondo and undercoat that’s white and now it looks like bird poop on my car so prob gonna spray some colors down now
Awesome, just make sure to use a primer or one of those paint&primer paints on the bondo part first so it all sticks. Just paint will flake off bondo after awhile. Good luck!
Good looking truck man, I daily drive my great grandad's 66. Stil has the 250 and 3 on the tree. I think it just makes people mad since i only drive it 50-55. Its a truck from a by gone era thats for sure.
So on the truck I had when I shot this video the electric on the truck's hitch didn't work so didn't matter. Since then I have checked the brakes and bearings which were good, but I need to replace the light wiring, it only works 80% of the time lol.
I used this harness from ebay, under a $100 and the guy's shop has like 14k reviews with a 98% rating (I have no relation to them). Worked great for me so far, just make sure you order the correct color plugs for your cpu (red, green, blue, etc). www.ebay.com/itm/265043306821?itmmeta=01HXJRSZR2VDFGY6C1BS6PYNRD&hash=item3db5cfe945:g:W6gAAOSwOPhgIDV5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAKFqSfar0YijCIZKWelGdo3wtT1c1rerWe58S%2BLhUW6wZWoxAuncHJzzY7nKtNqXMX%2BC2kOZthQoNmJg8c%2FLHcQzSvfjKwA8QHL7oWqQg6aZgiErxZpFRIWB3s2oe8aDKH3Dwa%2F0pjOcmXPnds4nfmVGUqANSVQ2dHr78ac1GPluoyfR%2FZYzKJFZTfhlMh5s9Wp2n%2FZ9ZncYM93DPymDjyXu1phhkcUIIA6soiJ5cxbA6KM%2BA6bNmqfDoTSqmwh%2FdB3KdyskGtan69ftaKFQDFKSXOIOTiqIr9rqx98CKdplwAGioO8hxfqf8MAQJ6U24ILh6GdVNODIl7kYWgm6x9o%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMjvzn2Oxj
I used a Champions Radiator from Jegs. As I dug into it I found out my truck is a bit of a Frankenstein, my diff is from a 71 c10 w/ 3.73 gears. Thank you for watching!
Doing a light build on my old 04 escalade winter beater. The manifolds have never been touched. While doing a deep cleaning under the hood I noticed the head is missing on the driverside closet to the firewall. I made the responsible decision and ordered a set of long tubes and new ARP stainless hardware. Ive been soaking the hardware for a couple weeks now mainly procrastinating the job. Im hoping there is enough stud hanging out of the head to weld a nut on. Worse comes to worse it'll give me an excuse to pull the heads for some 243s, upgrade the rockers and slide in a very streetable cam.
The dome light fuse should be under the hood in the main fuse box, kinda near the center bottom, look at the little diagram on the lid, I believe its the one marked CTSY, check there and see if your fuse has blown. Good luck on your project, thank you for watching!
On my 02 2500HD my oil cooler lines looked like they had seen better days so when I dropped my oil pan to fix the pickup tube seal which I had to drop the front diff for anyway I decided to replace those lines while I'm at it. Bought the doorman lines. Within a month the high pressure line managed to get stuck into my power steering pulley pissed out all my oil and since of course I was going up a hill on a part of the interstate going through a mountain pass with no shoulder, by the time I was able to stop the engine was toast. Don't know if its a crappy design of the oil cooler lines or I just got unlucky with a part that shouldn't of passed QC because I swear the hard line was longer on the factory lines to where the rubber part couldn't end up in the power steering pump. Not saying don't replace them, but make sure its impossible for that soft part to hit a moving part. I thought bolting the bolt at the front of the engine would prevent that but got a nasty surprise and I don't want anyone else to go through the same misery I did.
Wow that sounds like no fun at all! Never thought about them walking over to a pully if they weren't secured well. If I ever have to do it again, I think id just make my own lines outta high pressure hose and that way I could put them wherever I wanted. Thank you for watching!
When I get that truck running again I'm definitely planning on making my own lines and switching to an auxillary oil cooler if I can find a spot to fit it since i have the auxillary trans cooler option. Since I did the efan swap if I can ensure the accessory drive can't get to it it should be good. Don't know how I'd add hardline to the block but I figure i can probably add some metal braid to armor it and in the event that happened again I feel like the metal on metal would make noise to give me some indication. but on the bright side I got the motor to turnover yesterday and so far looking at the guts of it, it actually doesn't look that bad considering the failure it endured and the 275k miles. This platform is by far the most dependable I have ever worked with, but I come from working on 55-59 chevy trucks lol
@@CLASSICSAREBETTER I had an old black BMW, it was falling apart a bit so for a laugh I put some badges and a chrome decal to make it into the GTA version, the Ubermacht Sentinel. I've just got another old BMW, once it starts to need replacements I would definitely think about doing that again. Although that said, in the two years I drove it like that I had one guy taking a picture, and it could just be I'd pissed him off Still it was good fun to do, and nice to have something unique
Hi, just picked me up a classic Silverado 07 with the steering wheel not centering correctly to the wheels, could I take the steering wheel of and just align it that way or is there something that forces it to go in a specific way?
You should be able to straighten your wheels then remove the steering wheel and reattach it straight/centered to match if that's what your asking. Good luck, congrats on the "new" Silverado!
As an EE and ME I do not see any use in that "loosen then tighten" thingy. If it turns while taking it out, it will turn all the way out without breaking. They break on the 1st turn when they do break..
Great video! I just did mine this past week. Exactly the same as you showed, except I had no washer behind the hub nut? Mine is a 99, and the hubs have been replaced before. What are the odds that the last installer left the washers off?
You would have to make sure that you have washed the truck really good with degreaser during your paint prep beforehand. Paint wont stick to the oil, but you should be able to get it off the truck as it will wash off over time.
So I was using a black primer/paint, mostly used it to focus on covering the bondo and bright yellow old paint areas, that way if I burned thru it wouldn't be so blatant. Main thing is to get your "rust" color spread everywhere and make sure to get it thick in the areas your going to sand on. Start on your tailgate or something to practice and you'll find your "look" quick. Good luck!
Little trick for easier wheel removal. Take the nut off 75% like he says, sit in the seat, put both feet up against floor pan, pull as hard as you can while wiggling the wheel. Pops off instantly Again, make sure you don’t take that nut off completely otherwise you’ll be replacing teeth.
Sorry to hear that, honestly it was probably still too much, the stuff goes a long way, you want it extremely thin. You could wash the dirt off with just water (no soap), may knock down the tackiness a bit. It is oil, it will always be slightly tacky but should mostly dry after a few days, the advantage is it's cheap and temporary vs the wipe on clear coats that dry hard, but are hard to undo. Best of luck on your truck!