I'm a hobbyist smith working out of a micro-shop with next to no budget. Primarily focused on tool making as I try to outfit my shop for ornamental and sculptural work.
These look great man. I need to make me a pair. We got a ton of snakes in Arkansas and while I'm a snake lover I don't necessarily want to handle a copperhead to relocate them.
Would this go quicker if you simply started with a length of 3/8" round? just wondering if you decided to simply use what you had on hand or if there was a reason (other than the decorative handle) that you started with such a larger stock requiring the lengthy draw out.
Just found this channel today and liking the content! Fully understand the struggle of want and not having money, tools and supplies, but with your skills, think you got this 💪
Very nicely done, the knob turned out great! I need to get one of these made. I was going to use a wore out pritchel for punching too, that's funny. To this day I can still smell the muriatic acid from when I used to help my Grandpa repair old car radiators. Looking forward to the hinge video!
Thank you! I was about to make a new punch from S7 when I remembered that pritchel was in my rack. I was originally going to make a die set for the staples but figured it would be faster to make a one-off than the time to make the die. I was wrong. lol I just really didn't feel like dragging out the welder.
Thank you! Yes, I usually do that on a bench outside, but considering it was just a handful of bolts I knew it wouldn't be a problem for the sake of the video.
It's definitely more work than mild steel. A lot of these heats are a lot colder than they should be because I'm colorblind which doesn't help. If I can ever figure out a way to explain how to do heavy forging I'll make a video about it, because it seems like a common problem.
I like how you did "everything wrong" and still managed to create something useful and good looking. That gives us beginner smiths encouragement to keep trying even if things don't go the way we see more experienced smiths doing it. Thank you for making this video.
Nice work! I make a lot of tool handles (abet not particularly well) I like to use salvaged handles off other things, like broken axe and shovel handles; there is usually 2-3 hammer handles worth of good wood left in them, as they usually get broken at the head of the tool. I have been known to buy the occasional new shovel handle to make hammer handles from as well, as a shovel handle costs about the same as a factory hammer handle, but with 3-4 times as much wood in a shovel handle!
Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. It's coming along nicely so far. Forge On. Keep forge lit. Keep making. God bless.
I think I would have started off with a seven lb hammer I have there was a lot of rebound with the dogs head. I have some truck leaf spring and a couple of bits of train coil spring that need some serious muscle to make them move much more than a mm or two at a time your chisel looks like briliant stuff for a hammer though. Something you can do with paralell eye hammers is extend the handle above the top so it splays out and pushes the head down against the neck of the handle ....not the best looking solution but it does work very well
Oof, 7 pounds is WELL out of my comfort zone. Lol This stuff moves like H13. I have one tiny piece left I'm going to make a smaller planishing hammer that's going to need a lot of drawing done.
@@strangeblacksmith I'd like to see you do that, will you be filming ? 7 is top end for me but I don't have a power hammer or press and no one that can strike for me either so its all on me lol
..was this a jackhammer bit? if so most of them i've run across are S7, tuff stuff. Nice job on catching the twist. Hammer looks like it moves metal perty well. Good job sir...!!
No, it was a very old handheld chisel for breaking stone or concrete with a sledgehammer. It's probably some sort of spring steel, quite tough when normalized, but not hard. Thanks for watching!
My understanding is that jackhammer bits are typically made from 4140 chromoly steel, which has great toughness and is a LOT less expensive than S7. It seems that someone noted in a metallurgical publication some years ago (when S7 was first developed) or something similar that S7 would make a good steel for jackhammer bits, and someone else found that, assumed that it was actually being used that way, and included it as fact in some list of junkyard steels. That little bit of misinformation was subsequently repeated until people just assumed it was true, even though it never made sense to use an expensive high-alloy steel for a consumable application. Because S7 is an air-hardening steel, an easy way to test what steel your bit is made from is to heat it up to about 1750°F (orange) and let it cool naturally in still air. Then test it with a sharp file. If the file skates across the surface, the bit is probably S7. If it doesn’t, cut a small piece off the bit, heat it to about 1570°F (cherry red), quench it in oil, and repeat the file test. If the file skates, the bit is probably 4140. All that said, jackhammer bits make great hammers and hardy tools. For the latter application, the heavy collar on a 1-1/8” hex shank bit saves you a lot of upsetting to get a shoulder that fits nicely in the face of the anvil.
..that's some Good information there. Thanks, i do like to test a piece of unknown metal to see which way it needs to be done. the bit i have is air hardening...@@jhcc289
Too many people think it's funny to be a disgrace. What are you culturing for others and yourself? As your thoughts become your soul you understand sacrifice.
