I almost bought this monitor but ended up with the 57" Samsung Neo G9 since it is 7680x2160, and is the best blend between productivity and gaming Sadly not OLED, that's the biggest concession
unfortunately not, the wireless version of the charybdis is very much diy and experimental, bastard keyboards is selling only wired ones. but if you're interested in a wireless ergo split w/ integrated trackball, and you're flexible regarding the design, look up wylderbuilds. they have a variety of keyboards that might suit your needs.
Those Totem builds are great! I'd been hesitant on building my own split keyboard since I have a Voyager that works well, but the dongle setup plus the FDM-friendly case & keycaps pushed me to finally give it a go. This is my first electronics project, so it's been a learning process. I'm 99% done, but I'm having trouble with the dongle. I can get the left OR the right side to connect to the dongle, but I cannot figure out how to get BOTH sides to connect at the same time. It seems like once one half is connected, the dongle won't pick up any more connections. Does it matter which version of the nRF52840 I used? I didn't catch a shot of the components used in these updated builds so I followed your last TOTEM video which looked like it was using the regular nRF52840. Looking at the descriptions on the Seeed site, it seemed like the nRF52840 Sense mostly just included sensors that didn't seem necessary for this project. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Use ribbons screen saver - why? Because if you simply turn monitor off, only specific pixel's in specific places are wearing, while if you use suggested method - pixels will burn in more uniformly.
Pixel degradation is cumulative, the ribbons screen saver would do nothing unless it could magically know which pixels to avoid, that’s sort of what image cleaning does (but by adjusting voltages).
@@EIGAtech nope it helps in same way it helped CRT monitors, instead of having only static image on screen you mixing it with dynamic image wich wear's whole screen, so essentially your burn in effect is less pronounced. It's like using your monitor for work only, and for work and multimedia - in second case burn in will catch you way later. I found out that trick from daniel owen channel, he uses his OLED like you - for everything. He uses that specific screen saver.
I’m sorry but that’s not how it works, CRTs suffered from image retention which is different. All you are doing with the ribbon screensaver is adding extra wear in top of the existing wear. Even if it worked the way you describe, pixel cleaning already does exactly that by adjusting voltages of individual pixels to maintain uniformity.
@@EIGAtech what I meant is that, you're gonna have a better experience I believe cus Tim is trying to push the reasonable limits and you're going to be using it like a normal person without intentionally trying to check the limits yk So I think your burn in checks would be cool for an average user I think even if you use it for longer hours.
Glossy on my Oled Odyssey G9, is perfect, but the text clarity kills the beauty of the display unless you are using it for purely gaming or watching a movie, this should of been dual 4k display & the text clarity would be crazy sharp and beautiful.
I think a "dual" 4K ultrawide will completely kill framerates. I've had a 1440p ultrawide for a while but I couldn't get used to the lower pixel density coming from 4K, and I could not get used to the curve either as it made every other flat screen I was looking at look distorted 😵💫.
I haven't, no. From my understanding RTX HDR is better but comes with a performance hit. Personally I would prefer playing games in their "intended" look. Mastering for HDR should have some intention behind it, I think.
Yes, LG's RGB OLED monitors (not W-OLED) is on the roadmap for 2025. That should completely fix the issue with LG's text clarity or desaturations of colours due to the white LED.
I have very similar experience with this monitor and it's highly recommended. Text clarity seems better, if not the same, compared to my previous 27" LG 27GL850-B 1440p IPS monitor. I have HDR full time in Windows, I suggest you run the Windows HDR Calibration app from the Windows Store, to get accurate brightness and color. To fix the slightly muted colors in games, I use Nvidia control panel and increased the digital vibrance from 50% to 56%. This display has built-in speakers, a highly underrated feature. I normally wear headphones while gaming, but will sometimes utilize the speakers when playing casually or watching a movie or show.
my main issue is PQ EOTF and monitors not being bright enough/dimming down after a while. IMO OLED tvs are half a decade ahead in terms of tech. Monitors need to use the heatsink used in TVs like the Sony A95L or the LG G3. And use that without looking to just increase brightness but rather to improve heat dissipation so that the image can be bright enough for longer without unnecessary dimming down.
@@kaiserfakinaway5909 EOTF tracking was fixed on the firmware update released last June. This monitor doesn’t dim down during normal use, as far as I can tell.
@@mrcivster I haven't seen any videos on the firmware thing so sorry didn't know. And damn, if it doesn't dim then it's a huge plus! Btw i'm talking about HDR mode usage in a static-ish scene like House of The Dragon's dark scenes or a FIFA game.
The Gloss VS Matte argument always goes as follows "They are both great, I cant barely tell the difference. I really like the Matte but if I had to choose it would be gloss" It is always leaning towards gloss just being better lol unless work in a brightly lit office building. But any average home can accommodate a glossy screen.
Completely agree. WOLED should have a glossy option as I would have picked that. One thing I would add though is that no one really talks about the raised purple blacks of qd oled. I only saw it in probably the worst case scenario of the first Alienware ultrawide qd oled in best buy under very bright lights. But the purple was incredibly obvious and in my opinion worse than lcd/ips raised blacks
I would only choose glossy if it was the LG TV glossy coating and not the sensitive semi-glossy coating that the QD-OLED monitors have. I definitely prefer the matte coating of my G80SD (QD-OLED) to the semi-glossy one.
Have you tested the sRGB performance for color work in your videos? My Alienware 3423DW spoiled me with awesome color accuracy and im struggling to adapt
I have and out of the box calibration was very good on my panel. It has hardware calibration as well which is even better as the calibration would be applied universally and not depend on an ICC profile but unfortunately my calibrator isn't supported by LG's software.
The shorter screws, tightened until nearly flush with the nuts on the other side. I haven't seen anyone remove the stock AM5 backplate when installing this cooler.
So I'm cleaning mine and I can't for the life of me remove the two acrylic bits above the jet plane. It just isn't budging at ALL. I'm worried I'm going to break them.
My block is just collecting dust at the moment, but if you've used it a lot my guess those acrylic bits are just stuck to the fins. They should come off though...
y dont you try the klor with gateron low profile switches, they come with factory lube and u have a few options, also infinetly better keycap support(if u go with the ks-33)
Great content and camera work... A question for you. Can you expand on the point you made about the pinkie being better suited to the Totem vs the Corne. I thought the rotated pinkie key would be harder to reach ?
Thanks! On the TOTEM the columns underneath the ring and pinkie fingers are shifted down more aggressively and rotated (splayed) compared to the Corne, this makes reaching keys on those columns a lot easier, but it takes some getting used to at first.
@@bradd5961 the wired version of the TOTEM which uses rp2040 Xiao controllers can totally get ported to VIAL, if it hasn't been done already. for the wireless TOTEM though you'd have to set up a github config repository, and the best alternative to VIAL, at least for the time being, is a community project called ZMK Keymap Editor. it's a visual editor that simplifies things a bit, but any changes to the keymap or behaviors require a firmware rebuild and reflash. ZMK Studio which is a fully fledged piece of software similar to VIAL is currently in the works, with a planned release later this year.
From my understanding, a 120mm fan doesn't help much if at all. Part of the reason is that the hub is larger on a 120 fan which blocks air flow. Direct die would indeed be a further improvement but the effort.risk required is substantial.
Hey I am a little curious if you tried specific intake points for the custom panels? For example only having open air areas at the cpu, psu and gpu? Or is that not recommended due to the overall cooling (mobo, ssds)
