Can you get custom designs printed on the dip pattern? Like, can I get a specific car or a wedding picture made into a pattern for hydro dipping? If so, where do I get that made?
Sorry, we do not do custom designs, and unfortunately, there is nobody we can recommend. This will be a Google situation for you sorry for the inconvenience!
Hi Jason. Thank you for great feedback in this video. As a follow up, what is the the proper consistency of clear? Is it the same as for paints? Thank you again.
Hi, usually clearcoat comes ready to mix. Our clear is either 4:1 or 8:1 with hardner depending on matte, semi gloss or gloss. There is no further reducing required. Hope this helps and thank you for the question.
Hi OHW, I have a carbon fiber bike frame, I want it a rich green. So i can buy the green, go over the raw, bare, UD carbon, and then 2k clear over the whole thing? Thanks! Super excited to try this on a frame i’m buying.
Yes! Degrease, scuff, apply several coats our Emerald green candy intercoat until you get the depth of color you need, then apply our 2k clear over the top!
I am an ASE Master tech and after 46 years I want to paint my 67 C10 pickup white on top and metallic copper brown on bottom 3/4 field with base coat & clear. Chemically stripped, cleaned, sanded then sprayed in epoxy. Body work done, high build, epoxy primer, shoot white on top and tape off. It is at this point that I have questions on inter-coat on the white to create a tap line to spray the rest. I don't know anything about dipping, no clue what it is! I just want to tape off, cover the white and spray the rest. I was thinking the inter-clear that works like a base coat and protects the white during a spray so tape does not pull off white once done, clean, sand to 1,000 grit and spray clear. Not a painter but have painted 6-7 family cars. Kids learn to drive, wife learns what reverse does, etc. I am retired and in extreme pain and plan on finishing this truck with an 03 truck 5.3L and 700R4 I build 3 years ago. Just researching. Retired, broke, no garage and no clue on dip other than pinch between cheeks and gums. That dip in my world!
hi Dean, thanks for reaching out to us! If I am understanding what you were saying, you simply want to use the intercoat as a protection against the tape? You can absolutely do that, but the white that you lay down first should be fine to have tape applied over it after an hour or so. Basically once it’s dry. Then you can mask and cover as you say, then hit with the copper below. Once that is sprayed and dried, you can then mask the truck and apply clear over the whole thing. Basically, you should not need an intercoat to protect the white. It will grip just fine to the epoxy without coming off. I hope this helps, and if you need to text or call, please contact me at 305-318-1468 thanks! JJ
@@OHWPaint Perfect as I am learning more difficult task in painting. Chemistry keeps changing and I like following best practices. This "Two-Tone" is covered with a stainless steel trim. Even though 67 C10 did not come with it as an option, the white was used in 68 to keep the cab cooler as 80% came without A/C as farmer bought these and no tractors, combines or motorized hay cutter cam with A/C. K-Mar in Oklahoma City sell screws to hold the plastic trim clips in place. Using the base coat clear / intercoat keeps tape from pulling off paint but provides a protected area the keeps loose trim from scratches as you line it up straight then mark where fasteners go. Thank you for the help. This is mine and not show truck, but if it looks good getting there, I will bare that cross! lol.
I don’t know what year this was made, but higher resolution could not be more crucial as well as closer views of the patterns. Atomization is key, and if we can’t see for ourselves the barely perceptible differences in the atomization of the paint then it’s all for naught. I don’t get the 3 second thing. Holding a gun for three seconds on an automotive panel will cause a run, unless the initial pattern is blown out with too much air pressure and not enough paint. And at that point the finish would look like a “dry coat”, meaning somewhat like sandpaper. Too much distance does a similar thing, where the paint has so much accompanying and relatively dry airflow that it is trying to dry mid air. Puddling in the middle of the test pattern indicates too much paint, which can be corrected by either less fluid flow or more pressure, but in reality more CFM, but the tip size combined with psi dictates CFM. A 2.0 tip will flow more CFM with the same psi as a smaller tip size. And Vice versa. Smaller tip size means more pressure to get same CFM. Fluid restriction might be a way to make up for a small compressor, but the whole idea is to apply paint, so the industry eggheads have determined that to save our squirrels and beavers and mockingbirds we must apply the paint with as little waste as possible, meaning high transfer efficiency, which in turn means less overspray, and more actual paint on the work surface and less wasted into the air as overspray. They have determined that the best way to do this is with a spray gun which uses higher volumes of air, but with less pressure. They figured that 50 psi at the tip made for too turbulent of airflow, which allowed too much paint in that airflow to become airborne in a cloud of paint which wasn’t just not going to land on the surface correctly, but that if it did in such an airborne state, the finish would be undesirable and often necessitate a respiratory, which means yet more paint wasted, which in turn means more paint in the air and which in turn means more paint to be scrubbed and swept “away” and at some point right into little Rocky Raccoon’s body, where he might seek revenge on our careless toxic waste missteps and toss our refuse containers. The evidence is there. For every drop of paint not in the desired position, that is paint we have to at some point clean and dispose of, lest it become the new hue of our shop floor. So the best example of high volume and low pressure would be one giant drop of heavily thinned paint onto a horizontal surface. That paint will flow out until the surface tension grows as the paint reacts with the air and starts to release its highly volatile solvents, a necessary vehicle to get the paint to remain liquid while not exposed to air, and needed for transfer to the desired location, our body panel, fridge, bicycle, guitar, whatever. Shop floor. That would be a 100% transfer rate. Top notch, and Flipper would approve. No waste. No clean up. So how do we do that for a car door? Lay it flat, apply the calculated amount of thinner for the volume of paint needed to cover the entire car door to the desired millage, and pray that it hits every corner and crease and undulation equally. Good luck with that. So scale it back. Way back. We could never get giant drops of paint to look uniform on a panel, as each would dry at different rates and the individual surface tensions of each drop would dictate the end size of each, and then as they each meet up with their neighbors, the boundaries between them would cause even more of a pattern of texture, creating what we have come to call “orange peel”. I personally would have preferred it be called “golf ball” as that is a more accurate description. So then if we could make the paint into ultra fine drops, applied with enough pressure to get it to the panel before starting to dry, but with a big enough pattern to prevent uneven application appearances on the panel, that would look good, right. Why don’t we have the choice to make a pattern 3 feet tall, to cover a door or fender in one pass, is what I’d like to know. So the mix of air to paint has to be optimized, and that’s a tough call, every single time. High atomization will make for some overspray. Hold your paint gun over a piece of paper with no air pressure applied and squeeze the trigger fully. It will drip liquid paint through the needle part. That’s where the paint comes out. The air comes out of the other holes on the air cap, which in turn dictates the pattern. The ratio of air to fluid dictates the efficiency, and the texture. Most efficient would be to simply pour the paint into the surface, but the coverage would end up uneven. So we must make more even coverage with a fan pattern with air. Too much air means not enough paint, dry and rough texture. Too little air means uneven coverage, runs, too wet for the desired finish. Finding the right ratio is the challenge it is constantly changing and there are too many variables to tell someone else what pressure is best, what distance is best, what speed is best, and what overlap is best. The best thing to do is have a nice big test sheet of paper to check it all out, as shown here, but disregard the numbers on his regulator. To a point. There’s no doubt that 40 psi will be way too much. And that 15psi will be too little. But as he showed here, the pattern matters, and the horizontal pattern will show if too much paint is being applied, by way of runs, or at least uneven runs. Even runs across a horizontal pattern reveals simply too much paint, so tune up the pressure. You could reduce paint flow with the fluid knob, but we want more paint, not less, and few circumstances will dictate such a move, but at the very least, that knob should be turned in till it hits a fully squeezed trigger, otherwise there is too much fluid flow at the slightest pull of the trigger past halfway, which is no good, as that means there might not ever be enough pressure to keep up, and besides, way too much pressure will mean too much overspray, defeating the point of the whole thing. Bottom line? As much pressure as the pattern can take without being “blown out” with the narrow-at-the-waist pattern he described with very little paint in that area. That’s how you know it’s too much psi, and thus volume per orifice size.
I am painting a door panel on my 2015 Ford Escape color is Tuxedo Black, so Metallic. I'm Spray Max's spray can system for applying my paint. Now I have heard that using an Intercoat would help prevent fogging and to help lay out the paint and +metallics in the paint so it better blends with the rest of the body. So my question is can I use your Intercoat clear which comes in a can to apply before I paint and clear my body panel?
If you mean black/intercoat metallic/2k clear, in that order, then yes. This will give a metallic black, rather than a graphite, if you mixed black and metallic flake together. It doesn’t prevent fogging, as long as you’re using solvent paint throughout (which SprayMax is), you’ll be fine.
Thanks for sharing that very well explained I never do a spray pattern but I should I painted a old car bumper ages ago devibliss gti pro and it came out sand effect
Why did you spray something onto it before doing anything else, is that paint, dose it make it stick better? Dose it make it last longer? Dose it make it feel better?
Hi, yes you need clearcoat to protect the film. Otherwise the ink will get scratched. For matte, we do sell a standard matte clear and a 2K matte clear that you can apply directly over the dip once dried
I'm trying to solve an issue of solvent pop on my cabinet door. Could you help please? Using urethane enamel, would adding reducer helps with this issue?
I've got a 100 litre 14.5 cfm compressor but when I try and set the gun to 22 psi just passing air the pressure gauge drops on the gun to 10 psi and opening this reg fully up only gets it to 12psi / doesn't help mich, but the compressor reg I set at 50 psi or fully open it doesn't seem to make much difference, any ideas? Pipe too small or something?? Trying to use 3m 2.0 pps gun help very much appreciated, thanks
@@OHWPaint yeah I can but think I've sorted it the 1/4 quick couplers are strangling the supply from comp, I've fitted 8mm hollow threaded joints and effectively permanently connected gun (3m pps 2.0) to comp and I've now got 35 and can adjust down to 25, who knew the quick connect things would effectively reduce the pressure, new to all this so at least I'm learning 😀 need more capacity in tank now 100 litres not last long !
Great Video! Have question, I know you sanded the part before painting. What grit do you sand with, afterwards when you painted the controller is there no need to sand the painted controller before dipping. Thanks in advance🙂
we usually use a light gray Scotch Pad (extra fine) for scuffing. This provides enough 'key' for paint. Correct, no need to scuff before dipping. OHW has a long dip 'window'
Hi, it sounds like you may not have rinsed the dip properly - sometimes this can take up to 5 minutes. Please contact JJ via text at 305-318-1468 it you still have issues
Thank you Jason good information 👍 I am a weekend warrior and now I want to learn how to professionally paint and finish cars just for hobby. Thank you.👍👍👍
@@Dr.ZoidbergPhD We don't recommend using OHW for painting by hand. It is an automotive grade paint intended to be used with a spray gun or with our aerosol cans.
I’m just starting to learn about hydro dipping. This is one of the best videos I’ve seen so far on setting up a gun. You make it look so easy. Thank you.
That was a great video, thank you for putting the time in. I know you’ve been asked in a previous comment, I have a two gun set with the smaller gun with a 1.0mm tip and the larger gun at 1.4mm. I read online that you can drill out the nozzle to about 1.2mm to 1.3mm and it works good. So my question is, will a 1.2 to 1.3 tip be good enough for your activator without having to worry about reducer? I live in Canada, and I’m planning to do dips in my garage that is partially heated in the winter (on an avg day, it will get up to 15*C or 59*F). What is the temp range of your paint and activator? Do I need to make any further adjustments when it dips down to 5 - 10*C in the shop? Can I leave your activator in the gun for long periods of time? Or do I need to pour it back in the can and clean my gun after each use? What size of mesh filter do I use for your paint and activator? Thank you in advance, much love from 🇨🇦 Canada!!
Hi John - A 1.3 tip is perfect for Ink Drink Activator. You do not need additional reducer for Ink Drink or OHW Paints. Those temps are fine but the lower temps will slow the drying times. Everything evaporates slower at a lower temperature (Lower is Slower!) You can leave the activator in the gun with no problem and no need to clean. A 190 strainer is fine for OHW. You do not need to strain the activator. Hope this helps!
Shake can vigorously for 2 minutes, then apply a light coat? I followed the directions, I don't know how people do this and get it correct? I put on the lightest coat I have, even though I'm burning up hot, I don't know what this has to do with dipping my controller Edit: to put the clear spray ihave to get out my medium coat? FML
Best advice yet works great on a Kremlin gravity gun for €300+ even worked for a cheap €17.00 gravity gun from Lidl and the results were excellent and just as good .Thanks.
Ok so I put my base coat on let it dry and apply a candy intercoat, I dip and rinse away. Now when that drys can I put masking tape over what I just dipped or would I have to or can I put a clear intercoat over the freshly rinsed dip to protect it and double dip.
