Spray Gun Set Up How to properly set up your gun to spray solvent based paints like OHW Paint. PLEASE note - what we meant to say was 3-4 hp not 13-14. Thanks for watching! Make sure to visit www.ohwpaint.com for your paint needs!
I’m just starting to learn about hydro dipping. This is one of the best videos I’ve seen so far on setting up a gun. You make it look so easy. Thank you.
One of the best videos I've seen that shows how to set up a paint gun. My new Sharpe gun mentioned the spray patterns you show in the troubleshooting section but gave no real explanation, so thanks! Sata also has an excellent RU-vid video that stresses the importance of having enough air flow and being sure you don't have restrictive fittings. I've been fighting orange peel, and maybe now I can figure out why.
There are several components to doing a pro job. One resource I discovered that successfully combines these is the Magic Painter Method (google it if you're interested) definately the no.1 info that I have ever seen. look at this great resource.
Best gun adjustment clip yet. Another guy does great at explaining tip sizes and love that one. This is great show what does what and what to or not to do and wasn’t a long video.
I wish I would have watched this again before I started painting, Never used OHW before until yesterday. Now I know why it didn't spray right. I'll get it right on the rest of the parts to be sprayed. Thanks for your videos.
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else wants to discover car spray painting at home try Corbandy Car Sprayer Crusher (do a search on google ) ? Ive heard some awesome things about it and my friend got excellent success with it.
Best advice yet works great on a Kremlin gravity gun for €300+ even worked for a cheap €17.00 gravity gun from Lidl and the results were excellent and just as good .Thanks.
very clear explanation and confirms my progress. I would have lowered the air pressure first to solve the shape problem, but it's good to learn that restricting the paint can also fix it. great tip to spray horizontal to check for sag.
Thank you so much for this very informative video! Helped me out tremendously for my first time painting a car. Which i just so happened to make a run in a couple spots... Wet sanding will fix it though!
Thanks for sharing that very well explained I never do a spray pattern but I should I painted a old car bumper ages ago devibliss gti pro and it came out sand effect
I have a doubt, could we setup the spray gun to a table and instead of the hand release valve use a foot release valve for spraying stencils on a particular surface. Any ideas on how I could do it?
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Great video, never seen the tip on using a horizontal spray pattern to test for runs before. Only complaint, the moving between scenes is distracting. Despite this I'm looking forward to the next one. Many thanks. PCUK
Not sure what those initial settings are, all the way out on my Iwata would unscrew each valve and they would be in my hand.. Could you mean a certain number of turns from seated? Needed to shoot some primer today, 1st time in decades, 1st time this style gun, guess could test pattern on the plastic masking the car, no paper around...
Hi Mark, an LVLP is low volume of air, not low pressure. It simply means that less air is required for spraying, meaning you can use a smaller CFM compressor.
I went to a pawn shop to price out paint guns and I noticed none of them have that pressure gauge on them . I was just wondering if that's an extra mandatory part to put on the gun or what's the deal with that gauge ?
80 gallon compressor is plenty, even a smaller compressor would do the job just fine, the problem with smaller compressors is that you will not be able to spray non stop, you will be forced to stop and wait for it to keep up, for big projects like painting a car, a small compressor won’t do it. Check for the CFM on your sprayer and match it with your compressor, also keep in mind that a 2 stage compressor pump is better than a single stage one as it fills the tank much faster.
I've got a 100 litre 14.5 cfm compressor but when I try and set the gun to 22 psi just passing air the pressure gauge drops on the gun to 10 psi and opening this reg fully up only gets it to 12psi / doesn't help mich, but the compressor reg I set at 50 psi or fully open it doesn't seem to make much difference, any ideas? Pipe too small or something?? Trying to use 3m 2.0 pps gun help very much appreciated, thanks
@@OHWPaint yeah I can but think I've sorted it the 1/4 quick couplers are strangling the supply from comp, I've fitted 8mm hollow threaded joints and effectively permanently connected gun (3m pps 2.0) to comp and I've now got 35 and can adjust down to 25, who knew the quick connect things would effectively reduce the pressure, new to all this so at least I'm learning 😀 need more capacity in tank now 100 litres not last long !
I don’t know what year this was made, but higher resolution could not be more crucial as well as closer views of the patterns. Atomization is key, and if we can’t see for ourselves the barely perceptible differences in the atomization of the paint then it’s all for naught. I don’t get the 3 second thing. Holding a gun for three seconds on an automotive panel will cause a run, unless the initial pattern is blown out with too much air pressure and not enough paint. And at that point the finish would look like a “dry coat”, meaning somewhat like sandpaper. Too much distance does a similar thing, where the paint has so much accompanying and relatively dry airflow that it is trying to dry mid air. Puddling in the middle of the test pattern indicates too much paint, which can be corrected by either less fluid flow or more pressure, but in reality more CFM, but the tip size combined with psi dictates CFM. A 2.0 tip will flow more CFM with the same psi as a smaller tip size. And Vice versa. Smaller tip size means more pressure to get same CFM. Fluid restriction might be a way to make up for a small compressor, but the whole idea is to apply paint, so the industry eggheads have determined that to save our squirrels and beavers and mockingbirds we must apply the paint with as little waste as possible, meaning high transfer efficiency, which in turn means less overspray, and more actual paint on the work surface and less wasted into the air as overspray. They have determined that the best way to do this is with a spray gun which uses higher volumes of air, but with less pressure. They figured that 50 psi at the tip made for too turbulent of airflow, which allowed too much paint in that airflow to become airborne in a cloud of paint which wasn’t just not going to land on the surface correctly, but that if it did in such an airborne state, the finish would be undesirable and often necessitate a respiratory, which means yet more paint wasted, which in turn means more paint in the air and which in turn means more paint to be scrubbed and swept “away” and at some point right into little Rocky Raccoon’s body, where he might seek revenge on our careless toxic waste missteps and toss our refuse containers. The evidence is there. For every drop of paint not in the desired position, that is paint we have to at some point clean and dispose of, lest it become the new hue of our shop floor. So the best example of high volume and low pressure would be one giant drop of heavily thinned paint onto a horizontal surface. That paint will flow out until the surface tension grows as the paint reacts with the air and starts to release its highly volatile solvents, a necessary vehicle to get the paint to remain liquid while not exposed to air, and needed for transfer to the desired location, our body panel, fridge, bicycle, guitar, whatever. Shop floor. That would be a 100% transfer rate. Top notch, and Flipper would approve. No waste. No clean up. So how do we do that for a car door? Lay it flat, apply the calculated amount of thinner for the volume of paint needed to cover the entire car door to the desired millage, and pray that it hits every corner and crease and undulation equally. Good luck with that. So scale it back. Way back. We could never get giant drops of paint to look uniform on a panel, as each would dry at different rates and the individual surface tensions of each drop would dictate the end size of each, and then as they each meet up with their neighbors, the boundaries between them would cause even more of a pattern of texture, creating what we have come to call “orange peel”. I personally would have preferred it be called “golf ball” as that is a more accurate description. So then if we could make the paint into ultra fine drops, applied with enough pressure to get it to the panel before starting to dry, but with a big enough pattern to prevent uneven application appearances on the panel, that would look good, right. Why don’t we have the choice to make a pattern 3 feet tall, to cover a door or fender in one pass, is what I’d like to know. So the mix of air to paint has to be optimized, and that’s a tough call, every single time. High atomization will make for some overspray. Hold your paint gun over a piece of paper with no air pressure applied and squeeze the trigger fully. It will drip liquid paint through the needle part. That’s where the paint comes out. The air comes out of the other holes on the air cap, which in turn dictates the pattern. The ratio of air to fluid dictates the efficiency, and the texture. Most efficient would be to simply pour the paint into the surface, but the coverage would end up uneven. So we must make more even coverage with a fan pattern with air. Too much air means not enough paint, dry and rough texture. Too little air means uneven coverage, runs, too wet for the desired finish. Finding the right ratio is the challenge it is constantly changing and there are too many variables to tell someone else what pressure is best, what distance is best, what speed is best, and what overlap is best. The best thing to do is have a nice big test sheet of paper to check it all out, as shown here, but disregard the numbers on his regulator. To a point. There’s no doubt that 40 psi will be way too much. And that 15psi will be too little. But as he showed here, the pattern matters, and the horizontal pattern will show if too much paint is being applied, by way of runs, or at least uneven runs. Even runs across a horizontal pattern reveals simply too much paint, so tune up the pressure. You could reduce paint flow with the fluid knob, but we want more paint, not less, and few circumstances will dictate such a move, but at the very least, that knob should be turned in till it hits a fully squeezed trigger, otherwise there is too much fluid flow at the slightest pull of the trigger past halfway, which is no good, as that means there might not ever be enough pressure to keep up, and besides, way too much pressure will mean too much overspray, defeating the point of the whole thing. Bottom line? As much pressure as the pattern can take without being “blown out” with the narrow-at-the-waist pattern he described with very little paint in that area. That’s how you know it’s too much psi, and thus volume per orifice size.
you would think that paper is way off the comparison of the cars metal therefore the sag or dripping is not accurately adjustable because paper absorbs the accumulating paint...should you try the 3 second method on metal we would probably see a drip or a sag...im just saying.😏
Even the grit of the sanding affects runs, as well as reducer ratio, temp, humidity, airflow, and of course, paint buildup which is determined by speed, distance, and air pressure. Too many variables. Bottom line is this truism that the older veterans say: the best paint job is one big run. In other words, to prevent orange peel and get the best finish you will be on the ragged edge of a run when at optimum application. Always use as much pressure as possible without “blowing out” the middle of the pattern. There should be nice even coverage all around the inner part of the test spray, but with no puddling or spotty bits of paint, or another way to say that is that the individual dots of paint on the periphery should be very, very fine, while the middle area is smooth, even, and not already looking like orange peel on the low end of pressure, but not thin coverage around the middle either, at which point the pressure is too high. Ignore the number until you have found a good pattern. Only then, and on that day, those conditions, that mix of paint, that gun, everything, try to maintain that pressure number. If your gauge says 35psi, so be it, as we all have to remember that these gauges aren’t super accurate and lots of things influence the difference from the gauge to the spray cap, so whether your gauge says 22psi or 35psi, it doesn’t matter as long as the test pattern is correct. The available CFM of the tank will allow the read psi and in turn the pattern to change a bit as the compressor cycles, regardless of what the regulator is doing. The regulators only allow that number as a maximum, but your gun can spray at a lower CFM if the pressure from the tank falls too low. For example, let’s say everything is all charged up, tank pressure says 150psi, your regulator on the compressor says 90, and at the gun you’ve got 30psi. You start painting, and the tank slowly drops to 125 before it kicks in to recharge. At that point the pressure at the regulator set at 90 psi will have proportionally less pressure from the tank, and in turn might only be allowing 75psi through, which will affect your psi at the gun, and maybe that drops to 27psi. If your initial setting was on the low side of optimum pattern spray pressure, you will notice a difference in the gun’s application. If your pressure was closer to the upper end of what made a good pattern you’ll notice less difference and so on. That’s why these guys stress a bug compressor, but what is most needed for consistent CFM is a big TANK. A big tank equals cubic feet. Period. If you have five cubic feet, then in less than a minute you won’t be able to flow 5cfm, and in reality it won’t flow that much anyway because all of these tanks are tapped with 1/4” bungs. Which I think is asinine. They should be 1/2”. The power of the motor dictates the speed of recharge back to max pressure. And that’s it. A tank with 1000 gallon capacity might not even need a recharge during the entirety of your job, and would certainly make for the best consistency. Likewise, a two stage comp with 12 hp and only holding let’s say 10 gallons might do the trick but is a bad idea. I wish these guys would stress that the size of the tank is most important and that for car painting I’d say a 25gallon would be minimum. As it stands, my 2.7hp, 26 gallon compressor will maintain the same pressure at the regulator on my gun at all times, but even that is inaccurate, as the numbers are only a reference point.
I done the 3 second horizontal trick but about a fist distance away from the surface using a LVLP gun, but the paint only stopped running when the fluid knob was wound nearly all the way in, and it was spraying to dry at that setting so was causing orange peel. does it have to be 10-12" distance from surface when spraying?, that just seem too far away when using an lvlp gun
@@ObbardProductions Hi, LVLP stands for low volume AIR at low pressure, not low volume paint. If you are winding the fluid in, then that is shutting off fluid. Out on the knob is more fluid. Please text tech at 305-318-1468 so we can see what's up - thanks JJ
can anyone help me out i boughg a hvlp gun and i already have a compressor to match my gun i was given a gallon of acrylic enamel paint and i was told the way you set up your gun is different then all the other paints anybody know how to set up the gun?
wow! not a lot of auto spray painters in this section. Nobody knows the gun he is using? Wow! Probably the very best auto finish gun on the planet, Iwata Supernova LS400 LVLP w/gold cap. The second very best gun on the planet for auto finish is the Iwata Supernova WS400. Of course that is my opinion.
Did u say u need a 13-14 hp compressor???? That is slightly overkill for most people lol and cost more than some of our cars!!!I have a 2.5 hp 20 gallon, and it's just right for my personal at home use. Maybe not good if I was doing cars, but most people watching a how to set up a gun video are probably not painting cars lolGood tips though, I'm new to this and learned a few tips I wish I new before I got messing around earlier!
Do you think a 2.5hp, 9.5CFM compressor will be enough for home use for spraying lots of internal doors with a LVLP gun? I could step up to a 3HP V-Twin but it adds to cost and size.
StinkyDog1971 yeah fiber glass in the paint booth. Which is not allowed. Unfortunately, it was a school booth so and im not willing to play hall monitor. However, since this posting I've gotten a better handle on things
13,14 horse power compressor?! No way! That would be way more than you need. 5 RHP will suffice if it’s 60 gallons or more. 15 CFM at 100 psi should be good.
suction is more clumsy, as the cup can easily hit small parts while you're painting. Suction cups also don't use every drop of paint, as the feed tube can't reach the remaining paint. Also, suction cups are very laborious to clean JJ
We really did. It was a mistake. We've replied in the comments about the mistake but have added a note in the description as well. It should be 3-4hp. On that note, if anyone knows how to add text to a live video so we can fix this, we are all ears. Thanks for watching!
As long as you're aware. You're still good in my book. I've painted almost a dozen cars with a 5 hp DeWalt two stage 80 gallon compressor that I picked up last year with no issues whatsoever. I often don't read the comments of others for various reasons.
