Temper Driven...Drive with Attitude. Current vehicle project...well there is always something interesting to work on. Don't forget to subscribe. Feel free to leave a comment.
Im running a live axle on a golf cart i wanna run straight chain 420 on a 420cc predator to a 50 tooth rear sprocket do you think it will work? Btw nice work bro
Not at LMC truck or Certifit...Browns of Two Rivers has them for a 3 door extended cab...The slip on ones like I did here you could buy two and cut them to fit...Or keep looking on the internet.
And theres no getting away with it without c-notching the frame huh? And another problem im having is i took out the front springs and the rear tires and leafsprings already and im on a lift.... How can i determine what my ride height needs to be set at? By looking at the pitch of the pumpkin and driveline making sure it lines up, look up stop ride height (+/- 2" for the block that was in the leafsprings for the lowering done by previous owner) or it just not possible and im gonna have to put the springs in the front back on and the control arms and the entire rear end and basically just start over? I only have til 4/8 to get this done and its just me myself and I doin it😰
I and maybe most people with airbags set it up to lay out, and don't really worry about ride height...The front the airbags replace the coil springs ride height again does not really matter...I just make sure I can lay out...Cut down the lower control arm high spots/humps, cut a little off the frame around the airbags, notch the frame over the tie rods...Whatever it takes to reach the ground...I use just a C notch on my trucks, but my tires are kind of small.
@@TemperDriven I'm sitting on 20" wheels and low pro tires, I do have an 8pc c-notch kit but is it a mandatory thing that needs to be done in order to install bags? Also just so I know I got it right, my 2 link bars come from the front of the bed and go back to the axle with the airbag mount on the outside of the frame, and goes under the axle held up by the existing shock and the ubolt in the bottom shock bracket? The 2 link bars you have show just a straight bar with one end stacked like a block and I noticed you weld on a plate somewhere 1/2 to 3/4 from one end of the bar, mine came with the mount already welded on. Now when I mounted my 2 link and put the ubolts in it made my axle stiff and its angled upwards and my driveline is completely and I can't rotate the pumpkin forward or down if you will unless I loosen the ubolts and drop the bars. I know I'm making this so much harder than it looks on videos but looking at all this on my truck I'm not seeing it come together or how it goes
With your 2 link the airbags are on the link bars and your upper bag mounts will be on the side of the frame so the step notch or C notch is only clearance to lay out...Where your axle mounts to the link bars is meant to be rigid just like the axle is rigid to the leaf springs...Your suspension travel will be the swing of the 2 link like the swing arm on a motorcycle...Your pinion angle will change as it moves up and down...That is why people don't like 2 links...But 2 links work and I never had any problems with 2 links...Make sure you add a cross bar to connect the 2 link bars together or use a panhard bar, but you really do need one or the other. You don't want the axle to move side to side. Think of a swing set you can swing side to side you don't want that on your suspension..Think of a door you can swing it open and closed but not up and down...Weld in a cross bar to the link bars or a panhard bar.
Also...your transmission points down a little and that is why your axle/pinion points up a little...That is on like all RWD cars and trucks...That is why tall lowering blocks have an angle to correct the pinion angle after lowering so much...And that is why your blocks on your 2 link bars are angled...So don't worry about that...That part has already been figured out for you...Just bolt it up and weld what needs welding...Your drive shaft might hit/bottom out on the back of the cab of the truck when you lay out if you have big wheels. If you have a 2 piece drive shaft you will be ok...I don't know what your truck is like.
I would first find out how tall your airbag is fully compressed...Like 3 inches probably...Then make/use a 3 inch spacer like a small piece of 2x4...Put that on your lower mount at laid out height...then place the upper mount on top of the spacer and weld in place...That way you get the most lift when your bags are fully compressed laid out...This is more important for bags on axle because you don't get much lift...With your bags on the link bars you will get a lot of lift.
I was using a GoPro like waterproof camera...Maybe it does not pick up sound well being waterproof and all....I did no "mods" to it so it is not my fault...It is a two stroke AKA two cycle...This is the only two cycle I ever had...So I can't say they all sound like that...I just don't know.
So that 2 link looks like the ones I got from AirSlamIt, but the mount for the airbag is off to one side instead of on the link like yours is and looks like it has a block preattached to the link.
I did not see any 2 links on the Airslimit website...You could put your airbags on the axle like with step notches and a bridge or behind and under the axle like I did on my black GMC Sonoma (the black truck with the grey ralley wheels)...You will see I don't get as much lift with airbags on the axle...But with the small wheels no big deal...It rides kind of hard/stiff with airbags on the axle...I have a video on my channel temperbuiling called rear airbag suspension S10...You might want to look at that.
I just saw this video and I think I messed up! I'm struggling so bad with my airbag install (no instructions whatsoever from airslamit) on my 1998 Chevy s extended cab, 2 link bar with 3/8" manifold bags and 480 tank from airmaxxx and I been guessing as I go watching hundreds of videos that doesn't explain my kit at all... I dropped the leaf springs and put the 2 links going from the rear pivot joint (reusing the mount and bolt that held up the leaf springs in the rear) and the airbag mount sits on the inside of the frame behind the wheels and the front is u bolted to the axle using the mount bracket from the original shocks with the shocks still attached???? I'm about to weld the top mount bracket to the frame but now after seeing this video I feel like I need to tear everything down and start over ... I was wondering if the 2 link bar was supposed to come off the front of the pivot mount for the leaf springs (under the gas tank going to the rear like yours is)?? What a nightmare but I'm tired of bottoming out and I've replace my front grille twice now cuz every damn time I hit a bump in the road it breaks the damn plastic clip that connects to the front right under my headlights.... I just don't know what the hell I'm doing
@@TemperDriven I'll look it up right now.... I notice how you have your bags on the outside of the frame, if the bed was attached to your truck would the bags pretty much be right under the gas lid and under the step (if you had a stepside)? Don't usually be asking this question but would it okay to send you a couple pics of what I got goin on and gain some knowledge from you? It's my daily driver and going to be the face of my new business that I'm trying to get up off the ground. I've been without wheels for about a week now and I'm running out of time with the space I was given to do do this at and there isnt a soul in my town that's done airbags that I can ask any help from. Please, teach me your ways oh wise one, there is much to learn I still have! 🙏
In the video you can see the gas tank filler neck/tube is forward of the airbag and like just over the leaf spring mount...I don't know about if it would clear a step side...You could put your airbags on the axle...You will not get as much lift and it will ride kind of hard/firm compared to bags on link bars. Have you seen my RU-vid channel called "temperbuilding"...I have more/other airbag videos there...You can email me at my gmail temperdriven or temperbuilding
I call out and or list the dimensions in some of my other go kart videos. The plans were called Viper ST and Viper STX...The X means eXtended front end...I only did one shorter ST go kart...The website was mxk.com...But I think they are out of business...I bought the plans 10 years ago. The dimensions I say in my other go kart videos are a little different from the plans...I make my steering wheels smaller...And I make the front axle less wide and the rear axle wider because the plans hade the front axle much wider than the rear...And I really didn't like it like that.
Omg tysm! I been looking at how the cups were mounted to the bag and control arms I was scared to order some but now I know how they are mounted. Tysm!!! I'm saving this videos
There are ones that do not bolt in at all to the vehicle, they are called floating cups because they do not bolt into place they just kind of sit in place where they should be. I have always used bolt in ones.
I made that set from a kit that was 4 circle plates and 12 inches of 5 inch O.D. steel tube. I don't know if you have an S10 Jimmy or if that is a full size Jimmy...The 5 inch OD tube is about the same OD of the coil springs...Or you could make some from 5 inch PIPE which is a little more than 5 and a 1/2 inches OD...4 inch PIPE is 4 and a 1/2 inches OD...You only need like 2 inches long for the top and 2 inches long on the bottom...Or you can make the lower ones shorter to make it easier to lay out/ more travel before the airbags bottom out inside the airbags....Circle plates are all like 6 inches round and cheap.
I used two link bar ends/bushings for the pivot/hinge...And I think it is the rubber twisting/turning that is making the noise...You can hear the same sound when I raise the rear of the trucks because of the bushings in the 2 link bars. Or maybe it is the airbag slowly filling with air.
@@TemperDriven I think it might have to do something with the airbag expanding cuz it's quiet when it's lowering... maybe because the airbag is pushing up, but it's being forced into an angle?
Like not at all...Even a truck not body dropped would still have some of the tire tucked into the fender so that you would bend your fenders if you tried to turn even a little...You kind of have to make sure your tires are straight forward before you start to lay out...I like to use 6 inch wide wheels when I can just so I know they will fit in the fenders easier.
@@TemperDriven oh wow... so you can't really drive much laid out, at least with this truck, got it. Maybe add a height sensor (from an rv or semi with air suspension) and make it light up an led at a certain height, telling you that you're safe to turn full lock to lock :D if that's not too gimmicky :p
It lays out completely....It drags on the front crossmember/skid plate under the engine and it drags where the link bars mount to where the leaf springs used to mount.
Both of my black trucks I never cut anything on the bed. A "C" notch over the axle is all you need if you keep the tire height at like 24 inches. I use 195/60/15 and/or 205/55/15. I never had to cut the wheel wells either front or back. One truck has airbags behind the axle under the bed and the other the airbags are on the link bars in front of the tires. Airbags on the link bars ride much better than airbags on the axle. On all 3 trucks the valves, air tanks and compressors are under the bed floor.
I have 3/8 inch valves in the front and 1/4 inch valves in the rear. I like the 1/4 inch valves in the rear so I can easily set my ride height moving up or down. The red truck is all 1/4 inch valves and my Sonoma (the other black truck) is all 3/8 inch valves. I run 150 PSI...If you want to hop at all you need 1/2 inch valves and 200 PSI...I use just 4 valves 2 for the front and 2 for the rear. one is air in and one is air out...It is known as a front back set up (FB) If you want to do "sides" too (FBSS) you will need 8 valves.
Awesome! I love the stock looking wheels :D Few questions though: How tall are the tires? Like 25 inches? Did you have to c-notch or step-notch the frame? I see that you haven't body dropped it, so I assume you didn't raise the bed? And finally, is it a 2 link like your other builds? Thanks!
The tires are 195/60/15 (about 24 and 1/4 inches tall) There is a bolt in C notch over the rear axle. I did not cut the bed floor or the wheel wells, but I cut out a sheet metal brace under the wheel wells. Yes it is a 2 link. On this truck I have 2 inch dropped spindles in the front so I did not have to cut the control arms at all and I did not have to notch the frame over the tie rods. Dropped spindles are the way to go if you don't want to do a lot of cutting and welding.
I’m guessing you are a person that pays for everything instead of doing anything yourself except what you wrote on here well haters are always going to hate even with a congrats to start out with
Hey brotha just a heads up, here in New mexico you can 1inch outter diameter with .038 wall round steel for less than a dollar a ft. Talked to the custom crew out here and thats all they use in thier builds. cheap easy and strong! Hope that helps
I know it is not the best set up, but I never had any problems with U joints or vibrations or anything like that. I do it because it is cheap and easy, and because it is safer than stripping the leaf springs down to a "mono" leaf springs with airbags on the axle.
To bolt to the wheel the bolt pattern or bolt circle is 2 and7/8 inch. That is a popular size for 4 inch 5 inch and 6 inch rims/wheels. For these wheels I always use a 60 tooth sprocket made for a #35 chain.
What's up with the front wheel? I assume it's not centered in the wheel well because it's lowered? But I thought a-arms traveled up and down, and caster was only in the steering knuckle. I know y'all remake the front a-arms to clear something, so could y'all've moved the ball joint closer to the front to center the front wheel? looks like you could have even avoided cutting into the firewall :0 Or would that mess with the suspension geometry? Could you have "Z-ed" the frame? Or move the entire body back some when you body dropped it? Thanks!
I think the A arms swing on the same angle as the caster so the lower I go the more into the firewall it goes. Also I did not use dropped spindles so the A arms swing up more to lay out. I did "Z" the frame in front of the suspension so the radiator core support moved down to line up the fenders with the dropped body and that makes the bumper still line up where it should be. I body dropped it like 3 inches so no heater on the right side and no emergency brake on the left side. The wheels would look right at ride height and I did not want to move the cab back any.
All my go karts have been only one wheel drive. This is the go kart from my how to make a go kart frame video. This one has a 5/8 inch dia. bolts welded on each end to mount the wheels.
Not sure how much work you plan on doing to that thing, but if you have a welder, you should thicken up the welds at the point where the outside rim connects to the inner cylinder/hub part, otherwise they'll end up snapping. Those tires are made of super soft rubber and don't last on the road, but in cold temperatures they might hold up for a bit. The best wheel/tire setup I've found other than spending like $400+ on go kart wheels are the 15x6" Turf Saver riding lawnmower wheels from HF. They're around $70 each. @@TemperDriven
The tires are 205/55/15...So I don't need to cut out the bed floor at all, or the wheel wells on the bed. You can see the "C" notch on the frame over the rear axle. With these tires I can lay frame with the front wheel wells in place and uncut as well. I also use 195/60/15 tires to keep the wheel wells in place. The big lift is because the airbags are on the link bars in front of the tires.
I was living in Milwaukee and sold the truck to a guy in Chicago. I did all the work on the truck myself, even the paint and bodywork. It was no show car, but it was fun to drive.
About $35 on Amazon, they have a few different ones to pick from. Some, like the ones I bought even come with the cutting tools/ chisels. It does take a little time to get used to working with it, like other things. But it works alright, I think it is worth it...I like it.
The only electricity I have on that property is a portable rechargeable 800 watt power station. But I can run like all day with it. That is also why I keep the tools small. That and I am cheap sometimes.
It is a 2 stroke engine also known as a 2 cycle engine...So you have to mix 2 cycle oil with the gas. It is easy to mix the gas and oil...I did a video on mixing the oil and gas.
I use the premium gas like 91 to 93 octane but I don't know if you have to. It doesn't take or use that much gas so I don't mind using the more expensive gas and it might run better with it but I don't know for sure. 2 cycle engines smoke a little like a 2 cycle chain saw, but it is not so bad. I don't really use it much but I do still have it. It is a little slow but still fun to ride.
