I think people have this mentality thing about "non- rust, food safe stainless steel imbedded in their noggin... "Oh, I'd never use any utensil item that rusts, that's just plain trouble and not food grade safe" I'm new to this "thought I knew it all" knife construction and maintenance of a decent blade. Seems like the more I read & watch about knife quality and styles, the stupider I am! Great video.
i bought japanese knive...................i dont even use them................i call them the little devils....................i sliced my finger cleaning them
Wow!! thanks for your amazing video full of lessons! I've just started in the japanese chef's knife field before seeing your video. But I've bought a Global chef knife for 120 bucks. How would you compare the Global against the ones you indicated? Thanks a lot.
Nothing better to feel the bolster comfortably pressing your finger and the plesent filing of the German made handle. You can chop and pork ribs with them too and just ro abuse it like crazy and the knife is still there for you ready for service!
Best buying guide out there. This is beyond excellent! It is so informative and dead on accurate. I have my second j, knife now. The first one was stainless and the second purchase was steel. I’ll definitely stick to steel. The care isn’t a big deal, but you do need to treat them nice. Thanks!
thanks for the info. most reviews focus on a specific test set, but rarely pass on useful info that explains the nuances between these tools and materials, which a person could apply on their own at a later time. i feel like i actually learned useful knowledge, rather than finding out which knife tested the best by RU-vidrX
I have a 210 and a 240 Konosuke for many years already. Looks exactly like yours but not sure if it's the HD steel, mine is a white steel I believe and it has patina'd very nicely. They are old now and the 210 is my favorite knife of my pretty good sized collection.
Note: Sheet steel starts as a block that is heated and goes through rollers, forging it down to a specific thickness. The thought that simple hammer forging makes the steel special is fiction. There are forging techniques that real do make the steel structure better, but that a difference conversation.
I was checking out the Fujiwara online and there is a left hand or right hand option. I don't see this often with knives as typically both sides are the same. I'm trying to decipher why this would even matter. I'm left handed but in all the pics I see theres literally no difference
Enjoyed your video very much. About your Japanese pronunciation, if you pronounce Gyuto more like Gyuuto, it will be nearly perfect. Your current pronunciation sounds like Gyoto like Kyoto.
2:22 this can't be more wrong. The best steel nowadays is industrially made, for example through powder metallurgy. This guarantees a very uniform distribution of carbides throughout the material and a very reliable quality. You can control precisely the properties of the material. Hitting a chunk of metal with a hammer simply can't compete. The decision how hard a steel becomes and therefore how hard or easy it is to sharpen depends only on the manufacturers choice. I prefer the precision of a (good) industrial process more than some guy "eyeballing" it.
We all miss Oakridge BBQ!!! Thank you for this video, it's been HUGE inspiration. I've been trying my best to emulate a few of your rubs by memory and I think I'm getting pretty close to landing the secret weapon chicken and pork combination but I'd have to let you be the judge. I understand the company has unfortunately closed but any more video's would be much appreciated Mike, failing that, don't be surprised if you get an email from me trying to pick your brain about BBQ rubs!
@cutmethin011 hey, thanx for stream very informative, would like to know where to get these knives.I live in Australia I am a chef and looking to purchase some Japanese knives.appreciate info where to look thanx .
Excellent video and one of the best for choosing a Japanese knife. Do you happen to use any smaller petty knives ? and if so would they also be carbon steel ? Thanks
Yes, I have a few carbon steel pettys and one or two stainless as well. I use the carbons for non-acidic foods and save the stainless ones for cutting lemons, limes, tomatoes etc.
Thank you so much for your video I bought 3 high carbon steel knives that you recommended Looking forward to your how to take care of these knives video
Great video Thank you for the wealth of onfo however It would be very helpful if when you are comparing kives you dont say “this guy” What is this guy, use the name of the knife mfg
My m-m-m-m my takeda ..aogami super stainless clad … you only need one knife at a time so who cares it it’s 4 to 1 cost? the best 380 I ever spent on my takeda 240/250mm aogami blue super steel. I would buy a new one in a second, but appears that there are no longer made.
I dont have big hands, so im not a fan of big or heavy long knives, but at the same time , ive been havin an issue with cuttin the tip of my glove at work on the pointer finger in pinch grip while cutting with my 8in blades , as my finger slides down. Im not sure of its due to the length like this vid was explaining andnif a longer blade would help that, or the gloves at work bein too large or bad form or what. Ive been recently usin a material knife after being disappointed with my global sharpness , miyabi being too heavy n a few sent back failures. . Ive been looking for a sharper Japanese knife to buy since none of my knives cut things like raw fish well. I've been looking at tojiro, misono or jck blades.
Hi, thank you for your awesome review! Appreciate all your knowledge! I was wondering would this knife be a good option for home for meat etc Fujiwara Kanefusa FKM Gyuto 180mm… I assume it’s the same knife you recommended but slightly smaller. Thank you 🙏
Great content, thx a lot! Im checking for my first japanese knife: on top of the list currently: MASAKAGE YUKI santoku (Shirogami (white) carbon steel and clad in a softer stainless steel), and secondly MORITAKA AS KUROUCHI GYUTO 240MM. whats your opinion/experience on those two?
Stop spreading misinformation. rolled stainless IS forged in an industrial forge when they mix the alloy forge the ingot and then hot or cold roll the sheet. Stop spreading misinformation. there is no "stamping" it is rampant misinformation on knife manufacturing.. Actual stamping is done to shape sheet metal for making other curved metal products. Knives are not stamped like you said they are cut or water jet or laser cut not "stamped". Hand forging actually introduces impurities and cracks and is less consistent in the composition. The starting alloy bars comes from the same industrial plants that also forges the rolled sheets. it is more artisan though to have a hand made item. non stainless steel can be harder and tougher but hardness toughness and abrasion resistance are the different properties of steel. You want abrasion resistance so a blade keeps it edge longer between sharpening or honing. usually Vanadium or molybdenum is added to the stainless steel alloy to increase the abrasion wear resistance. The sandwich is called san mai. San means 3 in Japanese because it is 3 layers.
Forging further refines the grain structure and does make a difference. Fact. Why would so many performance sensitive industries rely on forged steel parts for added strength and longevity if forging didn't make a significant difference?
Alot of useful information but if you could boil it down a little to the essentials it would be a more palatable view. I also hoped for a more individualized blade by blade comparrison (I wanted to see more of the knives on the table). If this was not your intent for this video then please disregard this comment. Nice collection though. Thanks.
To be fair to the channel, the good guy is directly or indirectly informing the educated and uneducated about all types and variation of knives. Personally I know nothing, but I was very impressed when he said to also get a knife that talks to you, say as in buying a vehicle or motorcycle. I love the looks of the Damascus. They look very cool. For my very 1st knife, I’m going to go to the high end knife retailers and look at them all. Cheers NZ.
Virtually all steel used in knives has been forged, so it doesn’t necessarily make sense to differentiate between knife steel as “forged” or “not forged.” The steel has been reduced by a great amount before the knifemaker ever sees it, whether the final knife is produced by forging or stock removal. Forged and hot rolled steel has elongated features such as sulfides and carbide bands which gives steel directional properties, sometimes called the “grain” of the steel, which is not the same as “grains” in steel. Because of the grain direction there may be some cases where forging to shape can lead to better resistance to fracture of the knife. However, in most cases forging of the blade does not affect the tip or edge toughness. The literal grain structure of the steel, however, is affected by forging, and the grain size is easily increased at the high temperatures used for forging, which is undesirable. Grain refinement heat treatment cycles are necessary to return the steel to an appropriate grain size. High alloy steels, not typically used by forging bladesmiths, have many carbides present at forging temperatures which help prevent grain growth. High alloy steels also have more potential benefit from forging because 1) carbide structures can be refined by forging with a hammer at appropriate temperatures, and 2) the increased carbide banding means that forging to shape to modify grain orientation has more effect. There are other reasons to forge, however, including the production of Damascus steel, curved blades, integral bolsters, and enjoyment from forging knives.
Forging further refines the grain structure and does make a difference. Fact. Why would so many performance sensitive industries rely on forged steel parts for added strength and longevity if forging didn't make a significant difference?
"AS" is such a bad translation. but hey muricans love the word super. it should just be called blue extra imo. extra what? extra likely to chip. American steel like 52100 is superior in every way. blue "super" isn't even the highest grade of those hitachi steels. blue #1 is the highest grade. Why? it's less likely to chip. all about balance. just in terms of steel tho. all those traditional steels are frankly obsolete and out of date. theyre used because they're easy for a smith to forge by hand using crude traditional methods. not because they're the best material for a knife. if anything the best materials for a knife are the ones that are not even possible to forge in traditional methods by hand like that..
In my experience, it's still somewhat rubbery. I like to cook all poultry above 300ºF. My Ole Hickory CTO will only let me go up to 325ºF-335ºF, but if I could get it to run at 350ºF, that's where I'd run it for chicken.
@@miketrump1368 thank you so much for this info! I’m looking to buy a new CTO and was wondering about chicken and the skin. Glad to hear you can run the CTO to 335ish as the auto shut off is 350 right? I poke the chicken with a meat tenderizer (needle type) and that seems to help crisp the skin as well as hit the chicken with some cooking spray towards the end of the cook.
Hey man, really good Japanese chef knife introduction! Liked and subscribed and looking forward to watching more of your content. I share your love of aogami super steel, but l would just say that for anyone out there who loves great kitchen knives, and has a little skill in edge sharpening, and can manage to keep a blade wiped down with a damp towel during use and washed and dried immediately after use, l cannot recommend the Misono enough. The carbon steel they use is a dream to sharpen, easy to maintain, and has great edge retention. Plus, it's just a gorgeous knife. They used to call it Swedish steel, and now it's called EU steel. Same thing. I just sharpened up a brand new one and it's every bit as good as my older model.
Try not to just make up stuff. At the beginning of the video you describe forging as compressing the metal and you make it sound like forging can compress a block of steel into something around half the volume. Balderdash. The density of various steels varies very slightly with composition but it's always around 7900 kg per cubic meter but can be as low as 7800 and as high as 8100 but that's because of the materials used in the alloy. Forging won't change that. Forging rearranges the grain structure of the steel, usually producing desirable results but it doesn't shrink the volume of the metal. You can forge for ten thousand years and you're never gonna get a 7900 kg cube of steel shaped one meter on a side down to a cube measuring .79m on a side (half a cubic meter). You opening statement is a shame because it mars an otherwise very good video full of great information. Perhaps you can correct the part about what forging is and what it does.
Forging further refines the grain structure and does make a difference. Fact. Why would so many performance sensitive industries rely on forged steel parts for added strength and longevity if forging didn't make a significant difference?
