You did a beautiful job in everything you did. Wrap to turbo change and tune. Near perfect 911 in my view. I just traded my 23 Boxster S turbo for an older 911S 991.1 with N/A engine. I prefer the turbo set up. Like the low engine RPM power for everyday driving. Sights set on a 991.2 with turbo and updated Apple PCM. The older PCM is a brick. Thanks for your video.
With your mileage, you wouldnt really benefit from an electric truck. Time itself alone will degrade the battery not to mention weather conditions. By the point the point your at now with your tundra and that mileage. You would've already been looking for a new electric truck with your battery dying out. The new tundras aint nothing to write home about neither.
Small advice for the camera-man: There is no need to switch from the car or engine to the face of the owner permanently. People are interested in the details of the car!
The first boat had a diesel boiler for the radiators?! Surely a water source heat pump would be the way to go 🤔 also we didn't get to see the batteries.
Awesome deal with the air bags. I'm doing the same thing. I also use a equalization bar and sway control. I pull a 28' all aluminum toy hauler with a 2200 lb can am. Im in around 9000lb fully loaded. I live in and haul this rig in the southwest and Colorado. For an 08 thats been paid off for all these years . You can't beat them. I'm in the same boat. The only issue I have with it. Is the small gas tank. That is a problem when your hauling heavy laods out west. But they do offer a 46 gallon tank. My next truck is going to be a 2018 tundra. 70 thousand for a new tundra. No thanks, remember what a truck for. To do a job! And the tundra does it well.
@@speedcircuit the way I look at the money I put in my 08 tundra. What ever it is. Has to be better then a truck payment. I didn't look into yet. I have another project I'm working on right now. But I do see me getting the 46 gallon tank . Too much open country out west . When your getting 10 miles a gallon with small tank dosen't cut it. I always need to keep an extra couple gas can to travel any kind of distance.
@@speedcircuit night and day. Honestly. When I push my capacity. It's a hole process I go through to get the rig set up. Starting with increasing my air pressure in my truck tires. I run 50 psi. Then the trailer tires . Then set my equalizer chain. 4 links works for my set up . Then I add air to the air bags. I add enough to bring back at the original driving height. That's it. The sway brake is something I get out of my truck to increase or decrease. Depending if I'm on the highway with some winds. I crank it down. But when I get off the interstate. I loosen it up. When it comes to shit that can fuck up in a hurry. I like the KISS method.
Just came across this video and it helps me a ton! I've been planning on doing racing school to get my comp license but had no clue about scholarships! I looked online but couldn't find anything, does anyone know of where to apply? I live in SoCal if that helps
Bought my 2012 5.7 a year ago. Timing chains/tensioner(s) went bad. $3800 repair. But now is OK. NO rust NO accident dealer serviced. Not New England car. Local car. Not auctioned around the country. I will keep. Better the devil you know, than the devil you dont know.
We raced F440's some many years ago as Mini Indy's . Great fun. The suspension on the F500's is quite a bit more sophisticated then that of the old F440's which were basically Go-Karts with frame jacking to load corners for 'round de round' tracks where we also used different tire sizes at the same time. Regarding tires. We used a chemical application to soften tires before a race. I can't remember if anyone ever bought new tires except for one new guy who thought it would give him an advantage, it didn't or it didn't help his driving. One of the group bought a F-Ford. Great car, but expensive upfront and down the track. After a couple of seasons it hit the road. I would be interested in the F-600 or F-1000, but at my advance age, I just better stick with clipping the apexes with my Miata on track days. By the way...nice car. Thanks for the post. Brought back some fun memories.
Some of your complaints indicate that you really don't understand the purpose of this car. The Miata is tuned for spirited driving on the street, NOT for the track. So the suspension is intentionally soft to create a nice balance between comfort and performance. The body rolls is intentional, to make the car feel more exciting at legal speeds. Of course you can modify the car to fit your needs, but the way it drives from factory is by design and is exactly as Mazda intended, and I love it. The vast majority of Miata owners will never track it and Mazda designed the car for that back road enthusiast, not for racing. Also, there is zero evidence that carbon buildup is a problem with this engine, quite the contrary, in fact. As for the manual transmission, people assume it's a bigger problem than it is because those who experience it are very vocal about it, and I don't blame them, but it's not a widespread issue, especially on newer Miatas. I love my 2020 ST GT manual and have never had a single issue with it. I just ordered a 2024 RF GT manual, which I plan to keep forever.
There are other cars that I could claim have the same intended use (S2k, BRZ, for example) which have a firmer suspension. Moreover, the Club package at a minimum, should have higher spring rates than it does. My 2010 Tundra has less body roll than a stock ND Miata. As for Mazda not designing the Miata for racing - the Miata is probably the most raced car in the world at this point. Mazda as a brand tends to sponsor and promote racing and track events. While obviously the majority of Miata owners don't track their cars, it's still somewhat common. I do recall seeing carbon buildup on @engineeringexplained's car when they installed the supercharger: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yOQtbwyFV4g.htmlsi=QDdHQ3WrHDQmBsTZ The manual being weak is just Mazdas doing Mazda things. I've seen many broken transmissions from every Miata generation other than the NC. I used to rebuild the Mazdaspeed Protege transmissions back in the day, which were also made of glass. Congrats on the 2024, should be a great car to always have.
Should get that throttle position sensor issue fixed and also that weak braking you mentioned checked out, it shouldnt be like that at all, I got a 2018 crewmax and 10200 lbs of towing cap, 1440 payload, crewmax config kills tundra payload, your configuration got the full payload 2050 lbs or something like that.
It's not a TPS issue, it's just the way they're programmed. Every one I've driven has the same issue. We replaced the rear pads and it improved, but trucks just can't stop like sports cars can. Payload on my tundra is 1640. It tows 10k.
Only from watching videos, but the Legends spec (5/8 scale 1934 ford body with motorcycle engine) is pretty inexpensive, but most important the cars are so overpowered and all must run the same 'street' tires, so the racing is exciting with lead changes all the time as cars loose traction trying to go too fast. The real cheap racing is the endurance series like Champ or LuckyDog, but its not spec so more money or 'cheating' can make you faster, not just driver skill.
@@chadjohnson2853 Problem is that the fender contains a trans fluid cooler. There's no ideal solution here without really going overboard. Hopefully the heat shield will help a bit.
@@speedcircuit for sure 👍. Not familiar with the evo other than they haul ass !! What are the limitations of pulling through the hood would look really sick low profile scoop . Sorry just think your intake deserves purity..
