Thanks for your video & your information about this cameras limitations. I’ve got both an Instax Wide & an Instax 100 (from 1999). I prefer using the 100, but it’s very hit & miss with light. Either photos are really dark (with a definite blue tinge to them) or really washed out. I find that the Wide can handle bright light better, but photos tend to be a bit out of focus. Admittedly, I’m still experimenting with both, so some of the problems I’m facing could be due to my own inexperience with each camera. However, I do like the fact that both cameras aren’t perfect & the fact that periodically I do get at least 1 or 2 decent shots. 👍
I have 100 and don't have issues with light. However if your subject is darker than the background you should use exposure compensation, but so far photos look 10/10. Maybe pick another 100 and see if metering/exposure is better.
The commentator in this video mentioned about shutter problems with the Pentacon six ,well back in 1997 I bought a 35mm Praktica ivB SLR film camera at a garage sale it worked well for around six months after that the shutter wouldn't close properly on 500/1 of a second then the other shutter speeds started to fail.So the Praktica/Pentacon cameras have problems with the shutters are they a good choice well the lens seem ok ,but the biggest problem is repairs cost more than the cameras are worth and the other thing is the likelihood of camera's made during the communist era they would have been made to raise hard currency for what then was cash strapped governments. I reckon the old Soviet zenit/Kiev camera's would.also have had similar problems.The better choice for medium format might be a Pentax 67 or 645n yes they are a lot more expensive than the Pentacon six but a Japanese medium format camera being more expensive will be worth the money to get repaired if something went wrong on ebay I have seen Pentax medium format SLR cameras going for around a thousand dollars Australian so yes more expensive and yes something still can go wrong but the Japanese camera's are more reliable overall they went on to prosper in the 1990's where as the former Eastern block camera's started to disappear after 1990.These days I use a Pentax ist digital SLR a good decent camera .When it comes to old communist era eastern block era camera's forget them there are better choices out there than Stalins or Erick Honikers revenge.
I love this video I would like to buy an instant camera but I don't know whether Polaroid or instax I'm thinking about the Polaroid now + gen 2 but also about the instax square or wide 300 Due to the cheaper film, I'm now unsure whether I should use the Polaroid or Instax because I saw your video about the Instax 300
Well, Instax Square is smaller than Polaroid. If you’re ok with Wide shape it is an option. Instax film is also made in a little bit different technology, with Polaroid you have to deal with some scratches or cracks after developing as you saw in the video.
Hello man! I had the same idea - instax Wide! Can u tell the experience of usin sych a hack: does Instax Wide fits well inside the Polaroid Studio? Can u take a pic usin it? On my ends it's about 100 dollas per one casset of FP-100c - that means u pay for smth that probably could never bring u pics and still have a camera with no photos. Can i finally buy FP-100c for this once and then fill it up with Fuji Wide?
I think the best way is to have an empty FP-100C cartridge to hold Instax wide inside. Of course you can glue it somehow but the whole process must be done in complete darkness so it’s much easier to put one Instax, then empty cartridge and close the cassette. Everything works perfectly fine but it’s pretty much work for one shot 😅 Instax fits perfectly but as I show in the video, it doesn’t cover the whole frame. Buying original FP-100C is unfortunately a lottery which is not cheap. Maybe Lomo Graflok is some kind of solution but I haven’t tried it.
@@grainystories Thanks for ur answer. The point with a frame I missed in the video - thanks for ur explanation! I will try this probably soon and write u up about my experience. I'm really into theme of fighting for the one shot with Polaroid - that what makes it special! Thanks, man!
@@grainystories that's the best one. Hope it works well. Get a Mint Flash Bar II, the Mint selfie timer, and an SX-37 lens adapter, and you'll be set up well. Then get it refurbished with a 600 conversion, and then it's as functional as an SLR 680
@@seanconnors9912 first one didn’t work, the light meter was broken. The second one had some issues with the lens (it was stuck) but I tried to move it manually and it’s fine, at least for now 😅 SLR680 probably gonna be the next one. I really felt in love with Polaroid 😻
@@grainystories I would honestly recommend saving your money and getting the SX-70 Sonar unit that you have refurbished and 600 modded. The 680 is so expensive and fragile that I never want to take it out of my studio.
@@grainystories It's great that we have some variety in film stocks, othervise everything would look like same old portra and hp5. At that point we could all just shoot digital tbh.
@@jyrkijyrki9392 yes, it’s great to have a choice but at the same time I can’t ignore the cons of Phoenix. I exposed it at the box speed and it turned out to be very contrasting and very limited and that’s what the video’s about 😅 Maybe someone after watching this episode won’t ruin the roll like me 🙈
Hey mate, thanks for this video, I have bought one of these recently and I’m trying to get the flash to trigger but it doesn’t seem to want to, any suggestions? Ps I don’t have any film in there😊
@grainystories heck yeah! This camera doesn't get enough love. It may not be as pretty as other 35mm cameras but you get all the modern features plus you can use your EF mount lenses!
I wonder why there is so much secrecy around the production of film. Where are the factories? Who is making it? I don't understand what prevents clear reporting on this industry.
But it’s probably not. I made a whole episode about Phoenix where I’m analyzing what happened here 😅 Shortly, this stock doesn’t like strong sunlight, even slightly contrasting scenes. Shots in soft, even light look quiet all right.
The film is scientifically a 125 ISO film. So if he shot it box, it is indeed underexposed. I have no idea why Ilford decided to market a film that has a super narrow latitude as the wrong ISO, compounding an already severe issue way more than it needed to be.
cool video. Ii'll subscribe. I really liked how the shots came out. I'm going to japan next week. hopefully i can find one for cheap at a used camera store
Oh damn, I haven’t mentioned it 🙈 It’s a Kodak Gold 200, those two shots in autofocus section were made with repacked Kodak Vision. You’re right, those little bastards can really give a lot of fun and stunning results 😅
I really like your shots - your perspective, how you see the scenery. Also in this story - love the holiday, vintage vibe of photograhic movie. Keep going!
@@grainystories Do you live there or just a travel / holiday destination? My dad was stationed in Malta at the naval base during the 1950s on a minesweeper clearing the med of mines He had great stories to tell us as kids growing up! I might even have a brother or sister on the island I'm unaware of lol...😲😳😁
All good info, all I can add for anyone new to film and point and shoot cameras is, don't be fooled into thinking you must have a contax t2 or konica big mini and spend £500 or more to get good photos! A lot of it is online hype which drives demand and artificially inflates prices! I've found olympus mju models for £10-£25. Also consider canon models, I picked up a mint canon sureshot max for £10. Don't discount a late 1990s plastic slr either, they're so cheap now even with a good lens. You can you use them like a point and shoot, just put into auto mode, fit a 40mm prime lens and boom you have a much better point and shoot than any of the 'premium' point and shoots. I paid just £20 for my canon eos 500n slr with an EF mount zoom lens. This kit will grow with your ability and experience, it's a little bulkier than a point and shoot but the results will be much better. In conclusion don't pay more than around £25 for your first film point and shoot. Don't be afraid to haggle the seller to a lower price and wait for a bargain. I've added your channel, hopefully you'll connect with another film photographer?
You’re absolutely right, I’m making a video about a camera which was ignored by the hype but it’s a real diamond. But to be clear, I truly agree, you can make terrific shots with 25€ camera. The most important part of the process is scanning. Thank you for subscribing 😻 It really means a lot to me 🫡
SX70 is unironically my favourite camera, too bad film is quite expensive. I have lomo square glass as a “cheap alternative”/modern day land camera and that thing is super sharp(image is really “photorealistic”(can’t choose better word here) compared to regular plastic lens cheap instaxes) and serves as a cheaper alternative to shooting sx70, but there’s something magical about the whole package of polaroid slr’s - the design, the fact that it’s slr(large format slr, almost like graflex), image rendering from lens, metal and leather finish and so on(slr680 is my dream camera). Sadly, i’m a huge looser, cause i left my sx70 in ua when moving and eu import taxes are huge and it’s easier to just get a new one then sending it through the post, but i still have 660 and lomo square around. IMHO the best box camera is impulse af, the flash is always-on, but due to how polaroid exposure system works(a little bit different than normal cameras - it’s metering the shot while the shutter is open, then when you have “enough” light, shutter closes. Very unusual compared to normal “meter shot and shoot with already dialed in settings” approach of normal film cameras) you can just block flash with hand or piece of tape and you will actually get correct exposure
Actually, sonar autofocus in 660 surprised me in a very positive way. I shoot some portraits and everything is sharp with a nice looking bokeh. And surprisingly, the one without flash is the one I’m most satisfied with. SX70 is my next Polaroid to buy but I’m looking for the first “metal” version. Its design is just terrific and having a true SLR for instants sounds so good to me 😻
I really like the images you made - I thought the underexposed looked very cool and a bit surreal - and the over-exposed looked much more 'normal' - but I liked all of them! I think you had a real success with shooting this roll of Phoenix!
Thank you! It’s not that I don’t like those shots but the result surprised me a little bit and probably I was excepting something different. But I’m so glad you like them 😍 and in hindsight, I like them much more
this film is so amazing.. can't wait for it to become available here. I'm about to xp a roll of velvia too hehe my film shop DID manage to get a few boxes of that
I really liked these images. What some may consider "wrong" I consider nicely artistic. It makes me want to experiment with filters with the film. It inspires my desire to "paint" a photograph, rather than just imitate reality.
@@grainystories i always tell my students to blame accident when it goes badly, and curse it, but celebrate accident when the result is good, and drink to more happy accidents in future :) And never forget that one of the most wonderful art movements in history, surrealism, was built on accessing the unconscious. Sometimes the best art comes from not being in control. Meanwhile, I for one like the results that Phoenix gave you. It makes me want to try the film. Most film is very predictable and 'safe.' Dancing with the unpredictable adds spice to life, and getting away from the safety zone reminds us that we are firstly artists exploring our creativity. Your photographs were full of drama. That is what I liked.
@@artistjoh well, I really like your approach 😅 Maybe you’re right, I was disappointed about the results at first but after viewing those shots a few times while making this video I started to appreciate at least some of them. No doubt, they are not even close to what I was expecting but are they bad? 🤔
@@grainystories Good and bad are very much subjective conclusions. Because of that, individuals will often disagree over whether or not a result was one or the other. Ultimately, though, the only important thing, is how you relate to the results, because it is you who is artist and creator. I fully understand your consternation over the results not meeting your expectations, however, I will not be the only one who can appreciate the way the results transformed otherwise bland subjects into an interestingly poetic translation of the subjects with a drama of light and shade, and once you get over the need to be in full control, hopefully you too can appreciate the happy accidents for what they are. This is not dissimilar to my appreciation of 110 format film. Too many people dismiss it as simply 'too grainy.' I, on the other hand embrace the grain, and look for subjects that visually work well with grain, and thus the thing that other people see as a flaw, I simply see as a creative jumping off point. The flaw becomes the feature. Letting go like that, opens a new universe of possibilities. Early in the 20th century a Polish filmmaker, Ladislas Starevich accidentally discovered that bumping the model gave an interesting motion blur effect, and he started actively exploring motion blur. As a result he is now regarded as the father of both motion blur still photography, and in motion pictures, he invented stop-motion animation, both of which grew out of a happy accident. Most people would have said "dammit" and vow to not repeat it. Starevich instead said "that's interesting," and set out to explore it more. Few people realize that animations like Wallace and Gromit, or smoothing moving water using an ND filter and slow shutter both grew out of Starevich accidentally bumping the model in a photo shoot and liking the result. As William Klein once said, "blur is a natural part of life," and then made an entire career out of exploiting motion blur inspired by what Starevich was doing. I am an art history lecturer if you hadn't noticed :)
@@artistjoh Good or bad is subjective, no arguments here. I think that after watching a few videos about Phoenix I expected completely different results. So I had something completely different in my head and received something completely different from the lab. And that’s why I made this episode to show what you can expect from this stock, what are its limitations and I believe everyone could form their own conclusions. And it’s good to know why final images turned out that way to be able to use Phoenix for specific artistic visions ;) Like not only accept it but also understand it. I just like to know why 😅 For example to consciously underexpose the film to get specific “Mexico” look or to use it in even light to get this 80’s vibe. So yeah, all in all I’m pretty satisfied with the results because I could show some different perspective ;)
So far, I see that it has many interesting qualities. At times, a photo can look like a photo using the trichome process to some degree like from around the early 1900's. At other times, it's more on the "Lomography" side of things. I'm enjoying it so far. You might want to bring another camera with some "normal" color film with you if you are doing a shoot, especially if you're documenting something. Congratulations to Harman! I'd like to see them bring out another color film, one that's bit closer to reality but also special. Thanks for making such great videos!
Well it’s not a bad idea with bringing another camera but I wasn’t expecting such results. I used Orwo NC500, Lomo Turquoise in similar conditions and everything turned out much better 🧐
I'll be honest. While I greatly appreciate the efforts Harman went through and everything, I do have to say I don't like Phoenix at all. You can do some cool stuff with it if you REALLY set everything up for this specific film; grainydays had some pretty nice shots in his Phoenix videos. But then again, everything else mostly looks terrible to me. Latitude, grain, colors... most of your shots also look very underexposed which resulted in VERY overblown contrast in many shots. All the "overexposed" images look a lot better, at least. The way it turned out, for what I'm looking for in a film, this isn't it. Harman said very clearly in their factory tour how they were looking for an emulsion that they could easily produce with what they already had at hand. This makes me think their capabilities for improving on this formula or creating anything more sophisticated are very limited. I'd love for them to prove me wrong, though.
Yeah, I was also very exited about Phoenix after watching Grainydays video and I was pretty shocked after picking up my developed roll. I wasn’t really aware how contrasty and limited is this stock and my shots are not the best recommendation but well I need to shoot it one more time to make a final judgement. You’re right about the emulsion, it’s based on XP2 so they literally used the only foothold they had 😅 For now Phoenix just shows that someone still cares about the film. On the other hand, we have enough experimental stocks from Lomo 🧐
I'm really excited to try this film stock myself, hopefully soon! Thank you for the video, I'm jealous of the Scrapyard location, it looks like a dream place for taking photos 😄Pozdrawiam!
Just don’t be disappointed 😅 It’s great that Phoenix was made, no doubt about it but right now it’s not even ORWO level 😅 Pozdrawiam, czekam na kolejne filmy na kanale 🫡
I was used to the fact that what you get from the lab is the final result, when I was shooting film as a kid no one had a film scanner, let alone Photoshop or something like that 😂 But today is a game changer for sure.
Well, the sun was already setting behind the buildings but those shots were done from different angles so at least the second one should be ok, because the sun was more or less behind me 🧐
I’m going to recommend 2 hidden gems of the point and shoot world. The Ricoh TF-500 and FF-90. TF-500 is awesome because you get a prime 35mm 2.8 and hit a button and now you’ve got a 70mm to work with. FF-90 (I especially like the Super version, which uses a lithium battery; no AA corrosion to worry about) and you’ve got a prime 35mm again, this time a 5 element version which is rare on P&S cameras. Snag one before everyone else figures out how awesome these are!
Hey - great video, neat ideas, got the Prima 5 too, like the 38mm focal length. Back in the day I used Pentax Espio film cameras, they were cheap and everywhere and the go to camera for most everybody. And while I’d love a super cool compact now, I choose to shoot film on a Canon EOS 300. The image quality is Stella, and I love the retro late 90’s design :-)
Thank You, I'm so glad you like it :) I choose EOS 650 for my main gear, I had 50mm 1.4 lens which resolution is actually to low for Canon mirrorless cameras but it gained a second life when I returned to film. But Prima is also nice everyday carry. I rediscovered it while preparing this episode, specifically the part about scanning.
I love this. Most videos are obsessed with the popular, multi-hundred dollar cameras. I also searched for something similar to your list of important specs and ended up with a Canon Sure Shot Owl PF. It's f/3.8 vs your camera's 3.5, and the shutter speed range is smaller, mine being 45-160 vs your 8-250. The flash detail is important, too. I don't like that mine resets when the camera is turned off. My only limitation here is battery. At this point I don't want to have to buy special batteries for my cameras because I'm new to film photography. Maybe I'll get over it one day. In the meantime, I'll have to be happy with what I already have. Besides the Owl, I have a few fixed focus Fuji cameras from '89-'91. I know they have no exposure control but I love the simplicity. Flash has a switch that doesn't reset, no motor to break, and no batteries are even required, besides for flash. And in sunlight, photos are comparable to my motorized Canon. The lens makes a difference, and Fuji made good lenses for their fixed focus cameras, nothing like disposables or the new Kodak releases.
So good to read this ;) 3.8 is still ok if you ask me, shutter speed…well 1/8 is useless without a tripod and minimum aperture is f11 so 1/160 is surely enough ;) I’m testing right now something for about 100 dollars with a 2.8 lens and AAA batteries so if everything turn out ok there’ll be a video soon ;) Speaking of focus free cameras…yeah maybe I’m to skeptical, I’ve never tried anything, let’s say, top-shelf 😅
@@grainystories I agree, my camera's specs aren't really much worse than yours. I just wanted to compare the differences. I don't really wish for a wider aperture because my camera missed focus on a few of my shots. I'm still trying to master locking focus on the center, which is hard since you don't see what the lens sees and might miss the correct focus plane. Meanwhile the same shots I took with my fixed focus cameras (identical composition, taken for comparison purposes) came out well-focused (soft but better than having the focus fall on the background). If my Canon Owl had a flash switch that didn't reset, it would be the perfect option for me.
@@wintrymix AF is sometimes a lottery in point and shoots and the new one I’m testing, has an indicator that shows where the focus actually is. I hope it’s reliable 😅
My pal who are repairing analog cameras for living and worked on few contax t’s said that if it dies it’s most likely be irreparable and you’ll be left with 1000 eur paperweight. And unlike electronic slr’s from 90s they will fail in all possible ways and weren’t made for such long lifespans(most of them are like 30 years old by now)
That’s a good point. It’s a lottery for those who can afford, as you said, 1000€ paperweight 😅 Or more precisely: for those who are able to take a risk 🙂
@@grainystories Just sold my konica big mini when it started shitting itself(like buggy behaviour sometimes) cause of fear of it dying and bought nikon fm with 35mm ai-s lens. Honestly, can’t be more happy
