Quick and easy fixes for your vehicle, from a real-life Mechanic. Videos that get straight to the fix. Hopefully, I can help you with some of those costly repairs or diagnostics and teach you how to do it on your own. Bringing you content from my daily mechanic life. Thanks for watching and looking forward to seeing you in the comments.
This 65 yr old woman wants to know how to replace the hose. How hard is it to do the bottom side? My hoses appear to be good. So I should leave them alone?
@@maryann823 There not that hard to get the bottom off. I get them off with a pair of pliers for the clamp, then just cut the hose off with a razor blade. My advice is, if they're not leaking, don't touch them. Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
Hi! Thanks for putting together this great video! I have to replace the driver side upper and lower joints on my 2016 GMC Yukon SLT. Looking for recs on where to purchase the best parts. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I had the same problem and I changed it to a new one and before starting the truck again it was reading good at 12 then I cranked the truck and went back down to 1 any tips?
My neighbor has the 2021 2500 HD Silverado and was having the exact same non starting issue. He had the battery replaced and it didn't resolve the issue. We ran across this video, tested out continuity and the 400 amp buss/fusible link had failed. He was able to track down a buss bar at an area Chevy dealership, picked it up, replaced it and he's now up and running. Thanks for making this video, it sure did save him a ton of money and headache.
Thanks I hate listening to guys spend 15 to 20 mins to ramble on, as Jack Webb would say "Just the Facts". 11k miles and time for 2nd oil change, no warranty anymore so its time to crawl under and save some money.
The piece with the 2 - 7/32 screws that comes off. How do u replace it with new motor? The new motor doesn’t have a hole on side that needs to be covered with that piece. Just leave it off?
Great Video , right to the point , helped me out bigtime , especially with the tab part and reinstalling the plastic bracket. I took it out and didn’t remember how to reinstall it , but your video is very clear . I will definitely subscribe, thanks 🙏🏻 plus the resistor trouble shooting tips were great, hopefully i don’t have to replace the resistor , i so i ll reach out to you if there’s a video or instructions.Once again thank you for your video !!!
The bus bar is just a plated & stamped piece of copper sheet. The copper path to the various studs narrows down beneath the black plastic to create fusible links. The 400 amp link on his had failed. It must supply the starter motor and there was a short or something that caused the link to fuse. The power to the starter solenoid coil must come from one of the other studs/fusible links as the solenoid still clicked. But the bus bar design is such that once one of the links fails, the entire part must be replaced. It can be tested by checking for battery voltage at the studs or by disconnecting the battery and checking for continuity between the battery connection and the studs etc. that are supplied. You could possibly jumper across a failed link for testing purposes only but that's rather risky on a 400 amp circuit. Unless the link failed from corrosion, not evident here, a short that caused a 400 amp fuse to fail is a serious issue. I'm surprised that replacing the bus bar was enough to solve the problem but if it works, it works. P.S. It would be interesting to remove the black plastic from a failed bus bar to see just what the fusible links look like.
I have 2020 suburban i’ve replaced ride height, sensors, compressor, four shocks and calibration and to this day still rides very stiff Any idea? Is there any way I can take it somewhere you know in Southern California
If they are aftermarket shocks, that could be the issue. Cause I know OEM shocks are like $700 a piece. Best bet is to take it to an actual Chevy Dealership. Sorry I don't know any one personally down south.
@@showmemechanics everything is OEM. I already took it to two different dealerships and they weren’t able to find the issue. Thar solution that I was given is to replace everything again with them to make sure everything would be fine, but warranty it would fix the problem
Questions brotha my 2020 Silverado 2.7L is now doing the exact same but it started while I was driving and it told me engine power reduced and the engine began to shake so I turned it off and it’s doing this exactly, not wanting to turn on again any recommendations ?
I would take it in, to a dealership and have them update the programming on the ecm. That's the only thing I can think of causing your problem, from my experience.
I also got a smart start device cause I got a DWI some friends are telling me it could be that as well have you had any experience with this interlock device ?
I fought that belt on my '19 Sierra for at least two hours before watching this vid. 4 zip ties (5 is too many), and it was on in minutes. It took me longer to set up than it did to get the belt on. Thanks for loading the vid.
Complete and utter stupidity !! Why does the entire automotive enthusiast world have to suffer because the other half of the lazy fat world is otherwise preoccupied with overeating and getting fatter, instead of taking 90 seconds to check their tire pressure at every re-fueling !!?? Stupid people…stupid world !!
Thanks man I don’t happen to have the tool and I’ve done them before without the tool but this one I just can’t seem to get thank you for your idea. I haven’t tried it yet, but I believe it’s gonna work.
Had this issue for two weeks. Finally researched what it was and went to the dealership. They told me it had already been replaced with the recall back in 2019 before I purchased my vehicle and since it had already been replaced they won’t fix it under the recall. I only have 92,000 miles on it. They want me to bring it in to run a diagnostic test for $160 before they charge me who knows how much to fix it.
You can always tell them to change the part and deny the diagnostic as a "customer request". They do do that..they already know that that's the problem, but like to charge you anyway. Anyways. I change them all the time on the same vehicles. It's one of the parts that does fail quite often, but it is scary when your vehicle won't stop no matter how hard your pressing. Thanks for watching, hope you the best in your repair.
