One of my passions in life is dreaming up creative things in my mind and then finding ways to make them a reality. Taking idea or concept going through the design process, from initial sketch-up all the way through to final construction is something that I thoroughly enjoy. I created this channel to share some of my passion with other creators and viewers who share that same interest. I hope that I am able to inspire others to create and build things, much the same way as many others on RU-vid have inspired me.
You can use salt mixed in with the glue to help keep the boards from sliding so easy. To clean up your clamps, use some mineral spirits. Make sure you take precautions so you are not inhaling fumes without a mask on.your face.
Beautifully done product AND project... *BUT* background music shouldn't be so damned loud that your audience can't focus on your speaking. There are millions of people who cannot deal with such extreme distractions. Thank you for your video, and I hope this comment is received in the helpful manner that it is intended - Edit after reading some comments, and your replies: You seem a very helpful, kind, and giving person - and also very encouraging! Thank you for being you, kind sir.
Great video as always. Can I ask what program do you use in your video to share your screen when you are showing the SketchUp drawing? In other words, how are you sharing your SketchUp drawing on your computer in your video.
Thanks for the kind words. To screen capture I use the built-in software from my Nvidia graphics card called "GeForce Experience". It works pretty well for what it is. I hope this helps! 😃
Extremely helpful. Thank you. May I ask, did you design your spoil board with MFT style 20mm dog holes for better clamping options? Again thank you in advance
Yeah, I wanted to have the option to use dogs and dog clamps to provide lateral bracing to my pieces. I use these when doing surfacing operations when I need to keep the top of the work piece free from clamps.
@@EigenDesigns I’m on the fence of which Machine to buy, the Onefinity Elite Foreman or new machine that Seinci just released called Altmill. When i do build my spoilboard, i thought an MFT style grid would be helpful to square up the X,Y position using bench dogs or low profile planes while using Festool Element clamps for lateral clamping like what your doing. I’m just so on the fence in to which machine to buy. Lol. Thanks for the replay and great to share ideas with. 😀😀
Great work! Definitely well thought out! Honestly, I don’t have any clamping/hold down issues. I use t-track with t-track style clamps. Zero issues. Never had a work piece come loose. I also use double sided tape for some instances. No work piece needs to be so severely tightened that it bends t-track. My goodness. I think you did an AMAZING job! The result is great! I have always been able to correctly and securely hold down my work pieces with no issue. I would be solving an issue that doesn’t exist if I did what you did.
Man I have been trying to figure out what to do with my spoil board since I ordered my cnc a few days ago. This is PERFECT! I don't have to weigh which one is better when you can do them all. I'm going to share this video on a cnc group where I was asking opinions. Amazing idea. Thanks!
You're right, I should have gone into more detail there. I essentially used a trial and error method until I got the fit just right. I cut a dovetail channel on a scrap piece of wood and then adjusted the sacrificial fence when cutting the dovetail ends on the apron pieces until they fit snug in that channel. Once I was happy with the fit on the scrap pieces, I proceeded to cut the dovetail pins on the actual apron pieces. I hope this helps!
Great looking board! I really like the design and look. What size router bit did you use for the juice groove? I did not see it listed in the list of tools. Happy 4th of July.
a really great project, well explained and beautifully implemented. It's just a shame that you can't tell the effort from the result. Thanks for sharing, that's why I subscribed to the channel. Greetings from Germany 🤘👍
I made an end grain board a few months ago out of maple, padauk, and purple heart. It seemed like the padauk kept "bleeding" into the maple. Maybe maple is just more susceptible to that?
Hey John, yes Padauk tends to do that. There are a few other species that also do that. There’s not a great way around that, but having good dust extraction on your sander and cleaning the surface of the board often can reduce these effects.
I recently finished making your diamond cutting board. Your instructions were clear and overall were excellent. I loved the look until I applied the mineral oil at which time the board turned very dark and covered up the grain in the maple and walnut. In my opinion this really detracts from the appearance. Do you have any recommendations for remediating this condition. Thank you. Tom R
Hey Tom, I have had similar experiences with other boards and unfortunately there's not an easy remedy. Each wood species takes mineral oil differently and sometimes alters the color of the wood significantly - especially when you're dealing with an end grain board. I have even noticed significant variation in color change between different boards of the same species. For example, maple tends to turn more "amber" color rather than white once oil is applied. There's not much that can be done at this point. My only advice would be to make your wood slection for future boards with this in mind, given that the post-finish color change can really alter the final look of the board.
Does this still work with vacuum tables? I'm working with a table that has t-slots, but most of it is covered with a single MDF spoilboard where only some portions of the t-slots are exposed via 2-inch long rectangular pockets. Not sure if it would hurt the vacuum system to let the t-slots be fully exposed, and/or to add the dog holes.
That's a hard one to answer because it would depnd on the particular setup, system capacity, etc. I would venture to guess that putting this many holes in a vacuum system spoilboard would adversely affect the suction, but that would be better answered by the vacuum system manufacturer.
you should pre-offset the glue ups so that half the boards have vertical strips on one end and the other half have horizontal stripes. this will negate the need to waste so much of the wood!
Thank you for all this. great information....two questions if I may...overall, how do you rate the grizzly build quality? Second, if one ran a 6" trunk, it would still be necessary to reduce to 4" ducting for the tools ( and to connect to the DC...what do you think that will do to the airflow? thank you for your time, and thank you for the massve amount of effort you put into producing this video!!!
Thanks for the kind words, Chuck. I think the grizzly build quality overall is good, but I have been a little disappointed by the life of the filter. I had to replace it after less than a year and they are very expensive. Just something to keep in mind if you're looking at getting one. I think "necking" down to 4" as you get closer to the tools is completely fine. Most tools have a 4" dust port so it's somewhat expected that you will transition to 4" when you get closer to your tools. It shouldnt impact airflow too much.
Don't put holes in your spoilboard. They are simply not necessary. And when you do want one it will never be in quite the right place. When I need a hole in my spoliboard I drill one in the precise place I want for optimum fixing. My current spoilboard is now six months old and it has four holes in it. Hold work items is only 5% about holding them down. Put 95% of the effort into preventing them moving sideways. For this wedges and cams are the best answer. Preventing sideways movement by pushing down on the top is very much missing the point.
Very Good. the part where you did free hand routing for hinges without any template will be impossible for me. A potential to screw up the whole project at that point. I wonder what is alternatice to create those notches for the hinges.
This is a great design - thanks. I tried it on a smaller scale first - milled up enough wood to do 4 "composite" pieces 24 inches long and 4 gave me 7 inches of width in the final board so I put another piece of wood on each side to bring it up to 12 inches final width just to test it out. Looks great. Now i've just milled enough wood to make 8 composite pieces 24 inches long so now I can have a complete diamond board without any filler at around 14 inches wide with a complete pattern. There is a lot of waste. I was keen to see what you did with yours. I'm thinking of gluing all the triangles together into squares then laminate together and make some kind of end grain board with it? There's probably some way to do a fancy pattern... but I just want to use it because it was all awesome wood. P.S. I turned my blade on the table saw back to 90 for the last two cuts like some commenters mentioned. Worked fine.
Absolutely one of a kind. Your creativity in design,your execution, and your explanation so clearly are wonderful. Unlike those who go through motions and don’t say a word, like a zombie! Of course your cute assistant deserves tons of credit 😊
My goal for 2024 is to get my wood working business up and running. I’d like to start doing some CNC work but after moving, I still have to get my shop set up.
Nicely done video! The camera work, lighting, sound & voiceover were all excellent. I particularly appreciate you explaining the measurements in the beginning & following steps - SO many other people's videos fail to do that. Great video!!
Thanks so much for the support. I have listened to the comments over the years and tried to include the information that people as about in order to be as helpful as possible to those wanting to make these items. 😊
After taking 2 of the angled cuts, what if you bring the table saw blade back up to 90° so you can save the material? Totally understand the safety you mentioned
My OneFinity QC table defines the MDF piece sizes. Each slat is 8.75" wide, which isn't divisible by 3 or 6, so at some point you're going to conflict with some hardware. Despite the greater distance between dog holes, using an X-distance of 8.75 for dog holes and 4.375 for threaded inserts might work as well. Keeping the Y-distances at 6" and 3" respectively is compatible with QC board hardware. A disadvantage of using different distances between holes is that the secondary spoilboard wouldn't be able to rotate 90 degrees. Does your equal-distance system have any other advantages? So for users of QC tables, would you favor uniform distances in the X- and Y-directions, or using the 6" Y and 8.75" X?
Hey David, you're correct that this design didn't take the QC table restrictions into account. I think you identified the main advantage of an equal distance hole system. If you elect to change this then I would encourage you to add more holes, not less. Having fewer holes might limit your clamping/hold down options for your pieces.
