Yep,I grew up with a buddy who his father was a machinist and he always showed us how to make our own tools when it was a special situation like this.I have my Sportsman 500 sitting outside ,all half disassembled and I wasn't certain of the exact thread size until seeing this video and now I am ready to tackle my engine R&R to finish it finally.To get the Primary Clutch off and get the used engine I got shipped in from out West somewhere!Thanks for the info in detail about the thread size and keep encouraging people to build their own stuff,just like the developer of this Quad did when they first built it!!!Keep on Wrenching brother!
You can heat up the very end of the rod orange hot with an oxy/acetylene torch then quickly quench it in used motor oil or something and that should harden it a bit.
A lot of big truck spring tie bolts are that size. They usually have an allen head but you can cut it off and they are long enough too. So if you have a place that sells big truck parts you might check with them.
I have a solution that does not does not mushroom the end and also does not require you to have to thread all the way to the bottom. Buy a 3/4 - 16 (5 inch) grade 5 bolt, under $8, and use a 3/8" (2 inch) socket extension with an 11 mm short socket on the end. Drop the socket and extension into the hole, it will pass through the threaded section with no problem and then thread your 5 inch bolt into the clutch threads. The clutch will pop off. No mushroom problem and no messed up threads. Thanks for the tips and idea.
Hey Mike! Thanks for the How-To!!! Only problem I had was that NO ONE around here has 3/4-16 thread stock or bolts (as per MR Fish's suggestion) I ran to every store we have in a 15 mile radius . We have Lowes, Tractor Supply, The Family Center( it's like Tractor Supply) and Rural King. No one had anything I could use and then I realized that it didn't matter what I used as long as I could get a wrench or something on it to turn. I ended up buying a 1 7/8" Trailer Hitch Ball ,lol. The shaft was 2 5/16" long and I used a 7/16" short socket and a 7/16" long socket inside the hole as a spacer. I had to use a pipe wrench to turn it and " POW " it popped loose with about a quarter turn. I spent $5.99 plus tax for it. Sometimes you just have to use whatever you can find for the job. I just wanted to say thanks to you guys for giving me some ideas . :)
Late to the party on this one, but that is totally redneck...and I LOVE it! I am all about the redneck solutions when possible. I already have the Polaris tool. Too bad I didn't see this before I bought it.
Thanks for the video! Great idea I went to the local hardware store. I paid 7.78 for the 3ft rod and the 3 bolts. Lol I think in going to make 3 pullers and sell one for 10 dollars and make someone else happy. Again thanks again man!
For anyone who can't find the bolt, go to a fasteners place instead of a hardware store. You can also use the water method or place a smaller rod or socket extension in the clutch then use the 3/4" rod to remove it.
I too made my own tool. I used the proper-sized grade8 bolt and a separate length of steel rod as a 'pusher'. I would also suggest you use some grease on the threads and on the end where the pushing takes place. In this way, you are not wasting torque on friction as you tighten it.
This is why I love youtube,great ideas like this saves a guy a few bucks,bought a 3 ft piece of fine thread rod and made three pullers,they work slick.I will also work on the older john deere clutches too.thanks for sharing your great idea Mike.
great video...thank you...love it when guys just get down to business...no stupid 2 min intro showing you sledding...or a friend jumping a car...with some soundtrack...haha..short...to the point and very informative...you sir have a new subscriber
Thank you for the video and the info! You just saved me a bundle of cash! I'm repairing my father-in-laws Sportsman 500 HO that his grandkids had messed up.
tried this yesterday on a 1997 xlt600 polaris snowmobile engine cannot get the rod to fit through hitting rubber garment at start of clutch hole, do i need to chamfer the end of the bolt to get past the rubber garment?
Thanks for showing us 'where there is a will, there is a way"... I pulled mine off using a trailer hitch 3/4×16 thread and a piece of threaded rod. With 2 ft plumbers wrench and a 2 ft extender the clutch popped off. Cheers and thanks.
I've actually put oil in the hole as well, when threading in a bolt it will hydraulically push the clutch off....and no mushrooming. Oil cannot be compressed...
LMAO so you figured out that is 3/4" by 16 threads per inch....but not what to do if it mushorroms the head??? easy take the two nuts off the back and thread it through. Great vid btw
I would just buy the $40 tool. That metal is softer than the hardened steel the tool is made out if. And those threads are weak on the all thread. It will possibly work a few times amd then mess up the threads in the clutch. Ending up costing you more than trying to save $. Just my thoughts on this from past life experiences. I have made many a tool to do stuff. In the end after a couple successful jobs. It fails and causes more problems.
I couldn't find a 3/4 16 at any of my local hardware stores, but I did find one at fastenal. I had to buy a 10 pack of fine threaded nuts due to they were out of singles. Total cost was about $31.00. Still, it's much cheaper than buying the tool and having it shipped. All worked out well removing the clutch on my Polaris 2004.5 sportsman. Thanks Mike, you-da-man:-)
Could you tell me the conversion to mm of the thread? I am getting confused. 3/4-16 tells me that it is a 20mm bolt with a thread hight of 2.5mm!? But the thread doesnt look like 2.5mm. More like 1.75, 1.5 or 1.25...Any idea in Metric???
Your video was made in 2014. In the 2012 Polaris snowmobiles the clutch taper was changed. I don't know what size but they changed the clutch pullers as well
What you could do to harden the end would be to shave more threads off and then heet it up like cherry red then put it in burnt oil and harden it like they do on forged in fire or may be not just thout of haven’t tryed it tho just personale thout to throw out there
@@Mike_Wrecker ok thanks, i didn't know if it was SAE regular as thats a 16tpi thread as well as ANF at 3/4". Over here in the uk everything usually metric or BSW or BSF.
Ok so Im crazy.. I have a 2006 Polaris FST 750 Weber Turbo. So I measured the depths of the hole and the depth to the shoulder in the clutch. I calculated the]at a 6" extension would go in the hole and bottom in the crank without bottoming in the clutch and binding. Then added a 1 1/2 " extension to this so say 7 1/2 ... connected 7 exactly. Then screwed my grade 8 3/4 x 16 x 4.5 inch in the hole. I was near the travel of my thread with 4 threads to spare (so more threads are better as mine only had 2" of thread) I tightened and it popped off. I am still going to get the correct puller, but it worked without any damage to anything. and this method is good in a pinch.Peace
great tips an tricks 70 bucks is crazy for that " tool " i dont care if its harden or not you could do that yourself to what a rip off make your own just like this guy did your only going to use it a hand full of times anyway
Home depot, Lowes, tractor supply, neither one of them didn't have the rod so I had to go to Ace and paid $27.00 for the rod and $2.76 for each nut. Ace is expensive but they had it. Thanks for the video, very informative.
Good info. I found the all thread at a local bolt and fastener shop and used it on a polaris ranger 500 crew. The allthread doesn't need to be but 7 or 8" long. I didn't use an impact wrench, just a crescent wrench and a big screwdriver to keep it from rotating. I also didn't grind down the end, it wasn't enough pressure to mushroom that steel. The clutch came off easy with a couple kicks of the wrench. Thanks for the helpful video.
I found a 3/4x16 3" bolt at the hardware store. Grabbed a piece of 5/8" all-thread. Cut the all-thread to about 4" to fit inside the clutch, thread the bolt in to push on the all-thread. Less than $15.
My clutch was broken so the fixed sheave and crank starting spinning when I tried to take it off with the puller. The spider threads must have failed. Had to hold the fixed sheave with an 18"pipe wrench where the belt rides while I torqued on the puller.
Hi guys ....Just a fyi. buy a bolt that is 3 to 4 in long get some teflon tape. Get out your grease gun. Remove clutch bolt, fill with grease put teflon tape on the short bolt you bought thread into hole and use hydraulics to remove clutch..Try it you'll like it
i have a broken clutch bolt on a 2015 XP1000. I estimate there is about 1" of the bolt still in the crank. any suggestion on how to remove clutch if these ideas dont work???
Thanks a lot for the video. I made one and it works great. I ended up getting my parts from my local Fastenal. I tried Rural King, Tractor Supply, and Ace Hardware. All only had coarse thread. Also if you don't have a welder, you can use 5 min epoxy to seize the nuts on there for stubborn clutches.
Great video . thanks for sharing such a brilliant idea , is this the the same threads as the other clutch and have you given any thought as to compressing the spring on the secondary clutch to get the sir clip out ? Seems like if anyone could , it would be you !,
So I just followed the link to Amazon. I have a grade 8 bolt i used before to remove a clutch. I inserted a cut piece of rod into the clutch before i threaded the bolt into the end years ago. I remember it did come off but really damaged the piece of rod I put on the hole. I may try the socket method but I agree. If you bugger up the clutch threads, the crank threads or jam something in the hole that cannot be removed, guess what will happen? You will spend the next 1/2 day cutting the clutch off with a grinder and buying a new one worse a new clutch and new crankshaft. Some clutches are crazy tight. FYI if it doesn't pull off you may try some heat and then ice then heat. the expansion cycle will help loosen it up. I had one that would not budge i tapped with a hammer heated nothing. When I came out in the morning to continue the carnage, it had popped off under the tension I had in it . Go figure. So what am I saying? If I was doing this enough or thought I would be needing the tool in the future I would make a series of hardened rods the proper size and hardened bolts to screw into the clutch as a puller. Or just buy the right one.
@@Mike_Wrecker .....hmm Im trying to recall some clutches in earlier machines. Mine were all aluminum with steel inserts in the center from what jumps out of my memory. Some may have been all aluminum. But correct mild steel would be harder than aluminum for sure and if something were to strip it wouldn't be the steel although it may bent and break theoretically. Any Ideas for removing the nut and spider on these?? Now that I have it off I have to stop the binding. So rust formed on the inner sheve shaft and the rust is stuck in the spider bearing. Ive tried everything to clear it out. needs to come apart... To the dealer Im afraid
I made this , but have yet to get that clutch off I'm afraid to pry in clutch to hold it still , have used impact ,tried tapping with hammer etc but it still hasn't broke free , it's 2007 sportsman 450
Here's one for 15 free shipping They have gone up a little but still way cheaper than Polaris...Make sure you match it to your model see ya.. www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-Primary-Drive-Clutch-Puller-Tool-Polaris-Sportsman-Ranger-for-PP3120-2870506/253637474409?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52935%26meid%3D58a8d634a05b46e3bc4c8522385c135d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D123246316400%26itm%3D253637474409&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Why not use a grade 8 bolt and a grade 8 pusher ? Also you may want to quantify your video title to include which model of Polaris you have used this workaround tool on. I’m fairly certain not all models use the same clutch puller tool.