Hey Rick, thanks for this masterpiece! I was in the same situation last week, car was caked in road salt (Quebec weather is not kind) and too cold in the past 2 months to wash. I have CQuartz UK 3.0 with SiC as 2nd layer topcoat and it was indeed clogged on the lower panels and hatch area. I was able to fully restore the hydrophobics, but I had to use a more aggressive approach than what you showed. Here's what I did, hopefully it proves useful: 1. Alkaline pre-foam with Bilt Hamber Touch-Less, and rinse. You could also use Koch GSF + GS at this step. 2. 2nd foam on with Carpro Descale Acidic Shampoo to hopefully neutralize the calcium and minerals from the salt, followed by a contact wash (Descale diluted in wash bucket as well) and rinse. At this point hydrophobics were better, but still flat on lower panels. I could feel some roughness and embedded contaminants still. At this point I hit it with a cocktail of Iron remover (Bilt Hamber Korrossol) and Carpro Tar-X, let dwell, followed by another contact wash (with a fresh wash bucket of Carpro Reset) to get some agitation and really remove those last contaminants and fully remove any last remaining traces of alkaline or acid shampoo. After the final rinse, hydrophobics were fully restored and the lower panels felt smooth to the touch. Went ahead and applied Fireball Easy-Coat spray on rinse off for that final sacrificial layer. It's a bit counter-intuitive, as you would think acidic shampoo is for water spots which we get in the summer, but it's also great to neutralize road salt sticking to the surface. Tar remover, you'd think there's no hot tar from tires or construction in the winter, but somehow the mild solvents in it are great to dissolve whatever nastiness they put on the roads in the winter. From all the chemicals, I think Tar-X did most of the heavy lifting, and the big difference was applying it at the end of the process to a mostly dry panel, free of any traffic film, so it could really make contact with the embedded contaminants in the pores of the coating, combined with a final agitation before rinsing.
OMG! I will have to unpack this information when I have a bit more time. The fact you would take the time to explain your process in that much detail is so humbling. Thank you so much. I will reply in due time.
@@RADGarage Hey, just like @felipe_silve said - tar remover seems to work best for me also to unclog coating. I do use similar products but here in Poland we have less harsh winters (but also loads of salt when we have snow). Main difference is that I do prewash (GSF + GS) then foam the car with Descale and add mix of Descale + Restart Wash to the bucket, and do contact wash. After that iron remover goes on gets agitated with fresh microfiber towel and I let it dwell, rinse it down and apply tar and glue remover which also gets agitated with microfiber towel on all panels. That seems to do the trick best on Gyeon MOHS Evo + CanCoat as maintenance product every 6 months in my case. Love the content :)
Thanks so much for your feedback. This has given me much to think about as I plan for my next video. I am quite shocked with how many people have a similar situation to me. I don't remember this many people having issues unclogging their ceramic coatings in the past. That's the best part of this channel, it allows me to learn from and connect with others. Take care.
@@felipe_silveThis is kinda similar to what they do in Northern Europe but for every wash. They use Tar Remover in the winter to help remove salt & other chemicals from the road. They spray Koch Chemie Tea on the lower half & rear of the car let it dwell for a bit then top it off with foam using Koch Chemie MSN (It’s called VBN in Europe but in North America it’s MSN).
😂😂 I loved the intro / public service announcement!! Great video. We are freezing in Montreal too but perhaps not as much as you in Calgary! I hope you are doing well brother. 👍🏻 The hydrophobics were disappointing for sure. In the decon process, for coatings that seem to have taken a hit, sometimes mineral deposits are also accumulated and you need a more acidic product to combat those. Things like a water spot remover (DIY Detail Water Spot Remover) and/or an acidic shampoo like CarPro Descale really help to unclog. High pH for grease and road film, and lower pH for water spot and mineral deposit removal. So when I do a decon wash in the spring, I start with a high pH snow foam for the pre-wash with the foam cannon, and then move to an acidic shampoo for the contact wash. Once the car is clean, then you can use an iron remover for embedded iron contamination like brake dust. I have my ultimate spring maintenance detailing video on my channel ahould you want to see that process in action. 👍🏻
Hey Pan, thanks for stopping by to check out the decon process I followed. Like many of viewers, you are recommending that I get a bit more aggressive with my attempt to flush out whatever is clogging up my coating. I am currently strategizing how to approach my next attempt so can I ask you a few questions? 𝟭. 𝗣𝗿𝗲-𝗙𝗼𝗮𝗺 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗦𝗤𝟱 𝘄𝗶𝘁𝗵 𝗮 𝗵𝗶𝗴𝗵-𝗽𝗛 𝘀𝗻𝗼𝘄 𝗳𝗼𝗮𝗺 Any recommendations for which foam? 𝟮. 𝗔𝗱𝗱 𝗮𝗻 𝗮𝗰𝗶𝗱𝗶𝗰 𝘀𝗼𝗮𝗽 𝘁𝗼 𝗺𝘆 𝘄𝗮𝘀𝗵 𝗯𝘂𝗰𝗸𝗲𝘁 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗳𝗼𝗹𝗹𝗼𝘄-𝘂𝗽 𝗰𝗼𝗻𝘁𝗮𝗰𝘁 𝘄𝗮𝘀𝗵 Do you suggest I conduct a secondary foam application prior to this contact wash, or just move forward with the wash on a completely rinsed car? 𝟯. 𝗔𝗽𝗽𝗹𝘆 𝗶𝗿𝗼𝗻 𝗿𝗲𝗺𝗼𝘃𝗲𝗿 Do you suggest I agitate the iron remover (if so, using what media?) or just pressure wash it off after dwelling for a bit? I always appreciate your advice and feedback. Someone on this video accused me of being an "embarrassment" because I ask questions. I don't claim to know everything and learning from others is part of what makes this hobby so rewarding for me. Looking forward to hearing from you.
Thanks guys. For a pH-neutral formula, it sure goes to work. It is my hope that viewers will click my affiliate link below and give your line of products a try. I'm know some already have, but I am more and more impressed with each experience using ADS products. (Apologies if that sounded like an infomercial)!
Hi Rick, you need to use asid shampoo, like Fireball PH3 and also use tar remover. This products helps to remove all mineral deposits and road dirt, and restore hydrophobic effect.
Rick, I think what you have experienced is a manufacturers delema. How to make a coating for Arizona, Florida, Alaska and my home town Calgary. Now living in Chicago. Until we get a regional coating, which is completely vost prohibitive, we will win some and loose some. But the end game is protection, not beading etc. And that your coating seems to have provided. Great channel.
Thanks for the insight. You are correct in that no coating will satisfy all users in all areas. I am happy with the overall performance of the coating, but it is now my life's mission to see if I can unlock the hydrophobics. (I'm sure that is not an actual word!)
Never gets old watching these gems! Hit it with DIY water spot remover next time as well. I've seen that bring back a coating after being hit with harsh winter grime.
Hi Rick 🖐 Really enjoyed your video, it certainly shows the crud that we have to put up with in Canada with winter driving. I was surprised that you didn’t use something stronger in your pre was; something like Bilt Hamber’s ‘Touch-Less’ or ‘Auto Foam’ or perhaps from Koch-Chemie’s either ‘Super Foam’ or ‘Active Foam’. I believe that one of these soaps would have been a better option for a decontamination wash with all that crap that was on you Audi. I will keep tuned in to see what you experiment with next! Thanks for the great videos, many appreciate all the work that you put into your excellent creations. Cheers!!!.. 🍻
I approached it as two washes in one. The preliminary foam was just to get it clean, which GSF has proven to do quite effectively. The second round was the decon step, but a little bit of GS added to the GSF wasn’t enough. I’ll get more aggressive with the next one. I have been getting lots of recommendations so I’m confident my next attempt will yield better results. I plan of filming it and sharing the process and results with all you RAD viewers! 🤘
Good quality video like always-nice to watch. I live in Estonia and our climate is similar or even harsher. On the road salt after 5 degree doesnt work anymore and after that they add something really aggressive on the road. Most ceramic loose hydrophobic after on month. It eats through ceramic. In here we cant get car paint clean, if we dont use asphalt remover. Best in this category is petrol base( cant use inside garage). It removes this darker layer on the paint. In Estonia and nordic country we have good products named EWOCAR(German made) and these priducts work hear much much better than others. Try to find and order some prewash-alkaline, shampoo. Ceramics are very strong in harsh climates conditions and they dont left you waterspots behind so easy. I use almost most bigger branded producer, but these products are different. In video I see also-asphalt remover make trick there.
Thanks for the thoughtful feedback. I have seen photos of the oily material some Nordic centuries lay down on their roads in the winter and it absolutely horrifies me! I have a lot of different soaps, and this was just my introductory attempt at reviving the coating. I will be experimenting with more aggressive products in the near future. This is the part of the process that I kind of enjoy the most, solving a problem. Thanks for your help.
6 days later and this finally shows up in my sub box. I can not wait to detail my SUV. It's covered in salt too. This video was so satisfying to watch.
RU-vid has a long history of working against RAD Garage! I’m glad you were able to finally check it out. I’ll be doing a follow up wash tomorrow to see if I get that coating popping even more.
Definitely would run a water spot remover over it or wash with an acidic shampoo next Rick if it doesn’t come back any, Just call Dewar he will speed right over and let’s put something else on there 💪🧼
I don’t have any suggestions as we just don’t experience anything like those conditions here in Kent, UK. But I guess it just comes down to doing the best you can when you can. Stay RAD buddy and it will soon be Spring. 🙏
I hope you are correct about Spring coming soon, but I am afraid I have at least four more months of this winter madness. I am loving all the advice I am getting from viewers. I am hopeful my next attempt will yield better results.
Aftet decontamination try to use Wsr - water spot remover for the spot where the hydrofobic properties is gone. In my case this type of product increase the gloss of the paint and slickness,so the microfiber cloth won't stick to the paint like in 25:26. I don't know where you from, but in Europe we use this type of product in service wash about twice a year or less. I don't know why I don't see this type of product on USA detailer's channels. Greetings from Poland
You have a good eye! I was really struggling to add slickness with the Bead Hero. I have a few WSR's on tap, so I will surely add that to the process next time round. I think I will tackle things again next weekend if life doesn't have other plans for me! Thanks for the great advice.
Great video, Rick! Nice to see you back. I’ve experienced the same with the lack of hydrophobics with only a year and four month old Adams Advanced coating. Granted, I live in Phoenix so I don’t have the harsh weather conditions that you do in Canada but what I found to be helpful, was after a thorough contact wash, apply an iron remover and lightly agitate that with a soapy clay towel/ mitt. Then I would do another contact wash to get off any residue. This process didn’t entirely solve my problem, but it certainly helped. As always, that SQ5 looks incredible!
A number of people share you opinion about agitating the iron remover. I did a simply apply, dwell and rinse for fear of causing any micro marring in the event there was particulates on the surface of the paint. Perhaps I was being too paranoid. Lots of feedback on this video which gives me a lot to think about and consider. Thanks for being part of the process!
Great video, Rick! Really appreciate you taking a deep dive into ceramic coating maintenance and restoring hydrophobicity. A lot of ceramic coating content on here is devoted to application and initial performance and doesn't give you the bigger picture of how coatings work longterm. Keep it up!
I have always approached this channel as a chronicle of my garage and car life. Confronting this hydrophobic behaviour issue is interesting and I feel like I am learning as I go. With all the great feedback I have been getting from viewers, I am inspired to continue experimenting. I appreciate your support and look forward to sharing more of my experience in future videos. Thanks guys.
Hello there I love your videos it’s my favourite on RU-vid, I saw your process and it’s very good the only thing is when I’ve done the same thing on my sister’s Mercedes I rubbed the iron remover on after spring it, And it seem to give me better unclogging abilities and it restored the the ceramic coat back to normal if you try that especially in the back with the license plate is I think you might have better results please let me know if you do try it and if it works for you ? Please keep up the great work that you do and thank you
Yes, a few people have recommended agitating the iron cleaner. I think this is where I went a little wrong. I will do it next time. Stay tuned for a follow up video. I haven't given up on bringing back the hydrophobics!
Thanks Rick for this other therapeutic and high quality video. The only extra step I would have included is the DIY Water Spot Remover. It makes miracles at declogging coatings. All the best! Simon from Montréal.
Sunday morning, a cup of coffee, and a new Rad Garage video; how does it get better than that? Canadian winters are just hell on vehicles. I'm currently experimenting with the Ethos graphene ceramic coating, this is the first winter with it, so we'll see how it fares (the truck is in desperate need of a wash, with the warmer temps and resulting road salt/sludge/junk on the roads). The Audi looks great; it looks like the coating revived reasonably well, though the bottom half of the vehicle always takes the brunt of the punishment in my experience. Thanks for sharing, and keep up the great videos!
Sunday mornings are the best. When I am able to release a video, I just love watching it and reading peoples' reactions. I applied an Ethos Graphene coating on a black 2013 Audi RS5 and that coating was awesome. The owner has since sold the car, but I bet that coating is still kicking. With all the feedback I have been receiving from viewers, I have a few more options going forward to revive the hydrophobics of this Dr. Beasley's coating. You are right though, the winter is so tough on coatings on the lower portions. Have a great weekend Clint!
Hi Rick , great video! I would add a step of Water Spot Remover onto the plant. The paint is super glossy but the lack of beading would disappoint me considering the price of the product. Possible next coating , check out DIY 5 year or BC coating from Apex 🤔 Good luck sir 👍
I will integrate a water spot (mineral) remover into my next attempt. I have been loving all the viewer feedback but it is also a somewhat overwhelming amount of information. I’m currently reviewing my options because I feel like there’s still a good chance this coating will bounce back in terms of hydrophobics.
Hey Rick, phenomenal video and thanks for sharing. Similar to you, I would not be that satisfied with the hydrophobics. Knowing the price point of that coating and the durability claims, I would expect more out of it. To be honest, I probably would have been little more aggressive with the prewash/foam. It is my understanding you Used GSF for the initial pre foam and then used GSF and GS for the contact wash. I probably would have done a prewash with a product like Lift from CarPro or super foam from KCx. Not sure of the results would have changed or not but this would be my process. Thanks again!
Yeah, I am going to get more aggressive in my next attempt. I have quite a selection of soaps to choose from, so it will just be a matter of narrowing it down. Plus, lots of viewer feedback and recommendations. Descale seems to be a popular recommendation. I have a Pre-Wash cleaner by D-Tail Lab that I'm considering as well. Lots of options, but just so little time. Especially if I want to document it all on camera. Thanks for taking the time to view and comment. It is great to have such a supportive and engaged audience. Not all channels are so fortunate.
Haha. Glad to be back. January was a real grind this year with the weather. It was hard to get motivated when it was so cold. Any water introduced in the garage would cause issues with the massive temperature difference between the garage and the outside. Hopefully, February will be better.
Thanks for another great video Rick. Loved the "Public Relations Team Statement", LOL. I've been thinking about what to re-coat my wife's car with. I might stick to Gyeon One since I've always gotten great results with it and can do it yearly with a light polish. Thanks again and keep em' coming my friend. Best way to enjoy a Saturday morning.
I actually conducted the follow up sequel to this project this weekend. I went much more “aggressive”. I’ll be uploading that for another Saturday morning dosage of RADness! Thanks for watching Eric. I also appreciate the performance of the Gyeon coatings.
Extremely thorough however, I didn’t see an acid decon though. As much salt you were dealing with a water spot remover would’ve been a huge plus for this coating. I would try to use a dedicated water spot remover step or an acid based contact wash especially for the lower paneling. It’s worth a shot. I know it worked wonders on my coating/vehicle after a rough winter. Great job and I love your videos.
All valid points. Many of which I incorporated into the follow-up wash. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yu5LL7b0aaI.htmlsi=JI9BaPgCGSrJU899
I'm glad you are inspired. I am continuously learning and improving my understanding and knowledge, and this channel has been instrumental in allowing me to collect feedback from likeminded people. Thanks for being a part of it.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, Your videos are SPOT ON! Loved introduction as it is exactly how I feel! Your videos just take me to a nice quiet place mentally! Additionally, your "Debrief" was perfect!! As you were rinsing the car I was saying to myself, "You did great! But that coating is shot!" And you're honesty reflected that! Great job sir! Thank you
It's weird though. Some people are commenting that the coating seems to be holding up well. It's so subjective. I am going to take all the feedback and advice viewers are sharing and perform some additional decon washes to see if I can get this coating to rebound. Thanks for being part of this interesting conversation.
Hey, Rick! Lots of great advice in this thread, but I’ll just add one product recommendation, as I’ve never seen anything even come close to working as well in situations like this: Ammo Boost Anti-Salt Larry over at Ammo NYC is a genius, and this is an ADDITIVE, not a soap in itself. So you just add this, in proper proportions, to your favorite soap (in foam cannon and/or bucket) and let the magic work. Think of it similarly like we do with adding APC (as you noted you did with green star) but to specifically target the winter chemicals that you’re dealing with. Best of luck!
Yes, I live in Norway and we also have this salty mess on our roads. In addition to the usual wash/decon-chemicals, I use separate product that is designed to break the chloride-bonding to the paint. I think the bonded chloride might be the reason why the hydrophobic properties took a hit.
I have yet to try any Ammo products. By the time you factor in currency exchange, shipping, customs, taxes and duties, it is just too expensive. Maybe one day I can connect with Larry and get a RAD discount!
Fireball Silla (recommend 2 layers) would fight the winter better than anything else. It was developed by Fireball for Poland for this same reason youre experiencing
I have used Fireball coatings only once in the past and the owner of that red RS5 was super happy with its performance. I have a number of coatings in my drawer waiting for use, but I should probably add a few Fireball coatings to the arsenal. Thanks for viewing this video and for making your recommendation.
@@RADGarage i would also add, after contact wash, use a waterspot remover (like Fireballs - designed for cleaning coatings plus it smells like bananas lol) spray a few spritz’s on a panel and wipe in with a microfiber cloth while panel is still wet then rinse. It always helps me remove the winter imbedded brine further than anything else. Ive heard great things about KCx Reactivation Shampoo as well. 👍🏻👍🏻
Good video. struggling with road salt and temperature swings here in Norway too. was a period of -20°C I thought this method removes winter road salt very well, even if there is a lot of dirt on the car start with a thin layer applied under the windows of Koch Chemie Teerwasche A (petroleum-based degreasing) leave it on for 3-5 min and a layer of Koch Chemie Vorreiniger B NTA Free in a foam cannon 2 to 5% pir for a further 3-5 min working time and rinse off. Remove any iron if necessary and regular hand wash and finish with Koch-Chemie Hydro Foam Sealant S0.03 If there is not that much salt then just Koch Chemie Vorreiniger B NTA Free in foam cannon 3-5 min working time rinse off. normal hand wash and finish with Koch-Chemie Hydro Foam Sealant S0.03 Not very gentle on the protection of the car since Koch Chemie Vorreiniger B NTA Free has ph 13.1, but the car gets completely clean. Helps a bit with a wear layer with Koch-Chemie Hydro Foam Sealant S0.03
That is a very thorough explanation, and I thank you for that. I do not currently have some of the products you recommended, but that gives me something to strive for! I really appreciate you taking the time to follow this project and lend me your advice. Stay RAD! 🤘
J'apprécie votre enthousiasme pour mes projets. Je suis tellement honoré d’avoir des téléspectateurs du monde entier qui me regardent pour voir ce que je fais.
As a fellow teacher, your videos always give me so much motivation, insight-real inspiration in my own detailing journey. Thank you for such awesome videos and well thought out content!!
I am glad the you are back (winter is a pain). It was nice that you explained what you were going to do in detail.. Today we are experiencing the largest snow storm in N.S. since White Yaun 20 years ago. 🇨🇦👍👍👍
I'm glad you enjoyed the explanation. I hate talking too much in videos, but this one was a bit out of the ordinary so it made sense to spend a bit more time on the plan. Thanks for watching.
In my seven decades in the Maritimes this is the most snow I have ever seen. When they plowed our driveway one of the piles of snow is over 7 feet high. Not ideal car detailing conditions.@@RADGarage
I was watching footage of the storm on TV last night. It is absolutely mind-boggling that snow can reach that depth in one snowfall. I heard about having the government ship in extra snow removal machinery. Just bonkers. I get stressed out when we get knee-high snow, let alone over your head! Good luck and let's hope you get some reprieve from Mother Nature soon.
Rick you slayed the Audi as it looks better than new. You definitely have some gnarly winter weather up there. The Dr. Beasley’s coating has my interest and so far it is holding up well. Sounds like the coating was designed with flexibility in mind which can be very good. The gloss is still dripping and the hydrophobic behavior is impressive. Thank you for another great video!
It is holding up well in some regards, but like I said in the video, the lack of hydrophobics has me confused. Obviously, it is subjective, but I was hoping it would maintain those properties more intensely. Thankfully, I have been furnished with lots of advice from viewers so I will continue to experiment and see what results I can get.
@@RADGarage I appreciate your feedback as your a very good detailer. This coating so thick everyone is watching to see if this holds up. I think a good coating will remain hydrophobic without toppers for the first few years. As we all know coating can clog easily and this coating may clog more than others. Would a wax based topper absorb the minerals better than a bead hero? I will be looking forward to your update videos.
Not pumping out as much content as I want to stresses me out, so it was good to finally get this project on camera. Thanks for watching and for your encouragement.
I see almost identical behavior on my cars here in the Chicago area. I typically do a Spring 'unclog' on the everyday driver using Koch Chemie products on the paint work. I get better results but I used a different coating. The coating is approaching 3 years so this spring should be interesting wrt coating longevity. Great videos.
I will keep trying to unlock the hydrophobics. Lots of advice has been pouring in so I will take some time, regroup, and attack it with a different strategy very soon. I'm not giving up on it.
Great video, as per usual Rad! The Wheel and Tire Cleaner is for maintenance upkeep cleaning, so we are glad you tapped in Armour Detail Supply to help finish the job - they have great products and we are big fans of them. We will get to work on a more aggressive decon cleaner for the market, any feedback will help us deliver what detailers want. We already made something that won’t freeze shipping to you , what else do you want, just kidding, we love you. We need more videos! 🙏 ❤️
Thanks guys! I will be sure to feature the wheel cleaner when I tackle a less-intense winter disaster type of project. I look forward to seeing what you guys come up with in the future.
Honestly, the coating looks like it’s doing pretty well for the environment it’s been through. Though I definitely think this would be a perfect candidate for Koch Chemie’s Reactivation shampoo, or descale though it is not as acidic. After any major snow we have that I have to drive in and get caked in road salt I do a prefoam of an alkaline soap, rinse then refoam and contact wash with an acidic leaning soap. It is better at declogging and neutralizing any of the embedded minerals.
I was just chatting my friend Owen from TOC Supplies and he mentioned giving KCX Reactivation Shampoo a try. It is one product I don't currently have but he has offered to send me a bottle to see if it does the trick. I am getting so much great advice, but I think it will help me devise my next approach. Thanks for the insights and I'll be sure to show viewers what happens next!
I would use Carpro Essence Plus to refresh the coating, put it on with a back finish pad, let sit for 30 minutes...then I would hit it would NV Lustre and then Jet and should carry you through to spring refresh. NV jet is pretty durable vs those salt and chemicals. Car looks amazing!!!
Adam’s polishes graphene coating has lasted two Michigan winters for me. Top it off with their graphene boost once when we get a warmer pocket of weather during the cold and I’ve been happy.
There are those that scoff at Adam's, but I used their Ceramic Coating when this car was brand new and it was a warrior. I am not surprised at all to hear you have been having good success with their Graphene coating. As you know, I still have a number of Adam's products that I lean on regularly. I have many options if I apply a new coating in the Spring, but I'm not sure I will be using Adam's. They have kind of forgotten about me over the years. ☹️
@@RADGarage that’s too bad. I agree some products (their leather conditioner & polish/compounds) I’m not a big fan of. But their ceramic/graphene line I’ve been very happy with. Have used for 4 years now.
Another cinematic masterpiece Rick! Always in awe of your garage when I watch one of your videos. Well, along with your video quality and great audio tracks!
I tell you, the garage is what keeps me happy and positive during the winter. With fewer detailing projects, I do have more time to tinker with the organization and design of the garage. She is pretty sweet at the moment. There's not much I need to change, but cabinets are something that is on my mind.
@@RADGarage Very soothing. I have an entire finished "shed", but it's the farm's shed so my dad uses most of it, but I have my little section. My goal eventually is to finish the other half of it and install draining and plumbing to make it a true oasis! Like you said in the video though. Cleaning the car in the winter is so therapeutic but it lasts for about 2 miles on winter roads....
Thanks for the video ! For me the only product that help to find the property of ceramic coating freshly instaled is an acidic shampoo like carpro descale and some tar remover ;)
i could be wrong but Dr. B's aims towards their coatings being more sheeting rather than that strong water beading that most of us are familiar with. Similar to what you are seeing on the hood. What I would recommend is a 3 pH wash. Labocosmetica has a video on it but you could substitute products such as those from CarPro. For example the CarPro system would be the following Foam with CarPro Lift, Rinse, Foam with carPro Descale and leave it on the surface and then contact wash with CarPro Reset. This should to the trick in helping to deep clean the coating.
I have ALL the DIY Detail products. I think I am going to enlist their Iron Remover and clay towel to rid the lower portions of the layer of contaminants that are clogging up the coating. What do you think? Is that too much?
youd love australian weather.. summer is here is quiet hot at the moment 3 cyclones in a month for queensland. and melbourne got a heatwave tody too. stay warm friend :)
I don't think that sounds any better than what we experience here! I often mutter to myself how this frigid environment is better than having poisonous snakes and earthquakes! LOL
Nice video! I appreciate the content. I had similar results with Dr. Beasley's Nano Resin. In my experience, it's not a durable coating, even in mild weather areas. In my opinion, from what I can see in your video, it appears that the coding has failed. I have switched to Gyeon Syncro, I'm nine months out from application and it is performing as it did on day one. At this rate I am expecting no less than 3 years out of this coding likely more. I'm using Bead Hero as my topper. While not the most durable product, it does produce insane beading, gloss and is the easiest to use spray ceramic I've had my hands on to date.
I have applied Gyeon coatings many times over the years and they always perform well. I am also a huge fan of Bead Hero. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. I will be completing a new project involving my SQ5 and a new coating this Spring (if it ever arrives!). Take care.
@@RADGarage I'm a huge fan of Gyeon! The Syncro is currently my favorite ceramic, super easy to apply. I'm just not a huge fan of the ceramic detailer or Cure.
I hear you Rick As I live in Ontario Canada they put down lots of salt and Brian down all the time it is very hard on coating and hard to wash when you don’t have a full garage
Capturing these washes on video is my way of memorializing the time and energy I put in. As you know, they stay clean for a few minutes and they are back to the filthy. By putting it on video, I can at least go back and relive the time when it was pristine!
@@RADGarage still not sure. Since they are having here in Vegas, we're definitely staying away from the Strip. We have a sports bar that we like close to our house, we might end up there.
Riiiicccck! So good to see you post on a Saturday morning. And yes, I agree wholeheartedly with your statement. 😂😂😂 P.S. on the hydrophobic results, I have watched enough detailing videos to know that while it seems to have repaired itself, my observation is that it seems like a lot of work to keep it looking that way. Your remarks about the nature of the coating, at least to me, seems to be the compromise you make. Still a good look and a good product but I believe there are better coatings available. Great video and always enjoy your productions. Still don’t understand why your channel hasn’t grown. Till the next one Rick. Don’t stop. A fan from the “Rock”.
Thanks for watching and leaving your thoughts, Wayne. I'm not sure why this channel seems to have "plateaued", but I just continue to use it as my way of sharing what I do with those that have an interest. It could be that I need a new car? I don't think my coating is demonstrating the kind of hydrophobics this coating is capable of producing. I am confused, but I have yet to meet a coating that can truly handle what this city throws at it. The best I think I ever had (for hydrophobic) was my Adam's Ceramic six or seven years ago. They all start to pester out after a year. Some I have applied to other cars have been impressive. I think of the Fireball Devil's Blood on the Red RS5 and the Ethos Graphene on the black RS5. They are still going strong! I'll get Alex to come up this Spring and help me try a new one out.
I think an alkaline foam followed up with acidic wash, and then chemical decon (iron and tar) with limescale and mineral/waterspot remover may have restored more of the hydrophobic properties of the coating.
I think you are right. I am going to go further with the next one. I have appreciated all the feedback and advice viewers have been sharing with me. It makes it all the more fun to interact like this.
Awesome video Rick! Your channel is what originally inspired me to start a channel myself! Also I discovered the music artist Aurora Night through your video and listen to on my long work drives almost every day for over a year now!
Comments like these are what keep me going. I am honoured that what I do has inspired you. The music that I have tapped into has been a huge motivation for creating videos and I am glad you have come to know artists such as Aurora Night. Be sure to check out all the artists that I have partnered with here: www.radgarage.ca/music.html
Great video again i still think the coating looks slow at the rear of the car compared to the bonnet/hood i know the rear gets hit more but coatings are meant to be able to combat this
Yes, the water action was quite slow on the rear portion of the SQ5. That is the part of the car that gets it the worst. I have a few more tricks up my sleeve and thanks to all the great feedback I have been getting from viewers, I am inspired to attack this issue again next weekend. Thanks for stopping by and sharing your thoughts.
Great video Rick. In my personal opinion, the water behavior on the hood looks like it's hanging on a bit. I do agree with you on the hydrophobic and slickness qualities, especially after so many prep steps and the price of the coating system itself. I wouldn't be happy with this performance.
Unfortunately, this seems to be a recurring theme in my detailing life up here. I think that fallout from the fire really messed things up for me and this coating. I don't think I did the best job in "saving" it. I used the DIY Detail Water Spot remover, but even before that, the hydrophobics just weren't blowing my mind. I will continue to up the aggressiveness of my wash process to see if things bounce back, but I don't think I will ever know where things went wrong in that regard. Like I said in the video, the paint looks amazing, but I want more.
Have you tried a water spot remover? DIY Detail has one that immediately brings the hydrophobics back, on their coatings anyways. Might be worth a shot.
I feel like acid might unclog this better. I use both GSF and Green Star as a first step and it doesn't really unclog nearly as well as the Labo Purifica, Adam's Strip Wash (acid), or CarPro Descale. The alkaline products do very little for mineral deposits.
careful the rubber cap on that wheel brush doesn't fall off, happened to me on a similar Speed Master brush by Autogeek.... after snow here in OH and now time for the water to evaporate, I had piles of salt crystals in my garage where the water would gather. piles 6-8" in length. I can only imagine the unseen damage happening on our cars...
Tough winter out west Rick! We got luckier this winter so far here in Montreal, not so cold and snowy as usual… Anyhow, if it’s still clogged, i would defintely try a more acidic cleaner to break down salts and any type of mineral deposits that would sit on the paint. I’ve got good results with Diy water spot remover. But any kind of coating with that much salt abrasion Is having a hard time to resist …some are better than others though.
My next few washes will be experiments with different soaps. I'll get more and more aggressive and let people see if it is making any difference in terms of restoring the hydrophobics of this coating. Take care.
Hi, sorry for my English I'm using a translator, I'm from Quebec and here too the winters are harsh, I just discovered your site and it's really well done, I've been doing detailing myself for 5 years and I love it, my The question is in the spring when I make my clients and who have not washed their vehicle for 6 months let's say that it has a nasty crust, I have tried lots of things but never what you have shown here, what are the ratios that you used gsf + water and gs + water in your foam gun? For the moment I use a 4:1 APC in my foam gun but it doesn't remove everything thanks again and congratulations for your site
I have been fielding all kinds of thoughtful feedback and advice from viewers. I am going to give it another try and do it a bit differently, but I haven't decided on the exact steps yet. I used 900mL of water to 100mL of GSF the first time (that's my normal pre-wash foam dilution rate) and I added about 30mL of Green Star to the same concentration the second time around. I don't think the alkalinity in the GS at that rate was enough to do much. Next time round, I am going acidic.
Yeah, that would be the optimal way of knowing, but I don't think my OCD could handle it. I really need a second car that I can use as a test mule. I am leaning towards the application of a new coating this Spring and we shall see how it performs over the same length of time.
The foam is absolutely insane. The latest version of the MJJC foam cannon has a lot to do with it. I have used GSF and Shampoo+ from Armour Detail Supply in it and they BOTH came out great. The thing is, I am finding you go through the mixture much faster with the MJJC than the MTM which I have been using for years. I will have to play around with the "settings" to see if this is something I can modify.
Hi Rick! Well we can say that all of Canada as well as New England U.S.A the weather has Kicked the shit(excuse my language) out of our cars, but beyond that, to see the crud slide off the Audi was very satisfying. I'm not an expert, but the coating looks like it is still there? The Audi came out awesome and clean!!!!🤔🥰
The best way to determine that a coating is still there, in my opinion, is when you see the water bounce off the paint and that is where this coating has been underperforming. By theory, it is still there. It has to be, but it's ability to repel water has been compromised and I wish I knew why. I highly suspect the coating was harmed by a week's worth of ash from a fire when we were on vacation in the summer. The ash was baked into the coating and that's probably where things went sideways. I will never know for sure, though. At least it still cleans up easy and looks pristine!
@@RADGarage You are probably right, isn't ash caustic? I would think the combo between ash and salt and everything else would eat it's way into any coating over time, but your Audi cleaned up awesome! Great job as always, i love watching!
Whether I can get this coating performing the way I want, or not, I think I will reapply a new coating in the Spring. I have something quite special from Gyeon in mind. If you follow me on Instagram, you would have seen a post around the holidays.
Hi Rick, I'm Alessandro as always I give you my biggest compliments, you are always number one. When washing the wheel did you change the product why? I noticed that you used different products from different manufacturers, is the nano resin pro Ceramic coating better than a nanotechnological one? I have never used nano ceramic, I have always used nanotechnology, what is the difference between the two? What purpose does the micro camera you have on your chest while you make videos do? I have several people who would like to try it with me and in some customers I would have to polish the car, since I don't have a garage like yours to stay in, why should I fix it, are you saying that I will be able to polish the car outside? Right now I'm thinking about what to do about the garage.... bye Rick, see you soon and congratulations also on the really nice sweatshirt you're wearing...😉👍🤙 say hello to Canada❤
Hi Alessandro, the original wheel cleaner I was using was ineffective it removing the very stubborn layer of dirt that was sticking to the surface of the wheel barrel so I opted for a different cleaner that had a bit more "bite". The one I started with is better suited to less-intense situations. To answer your question about coatings, I am still learning about what makes coatings unique from each other, so we are in the same boat there. That thing you see on my shirt is actually a microphone, not a mini camera. It is part of my audio setup. I want to get a new setup by a company called "DJI" but I am too cheap to pull the trigger! I highly recommend learning about the polishing process and if you have nice weather, I think you could complete such projects outside. I much prefer the controlled environment I have in the garage, but I know people that have had great success with doing it outside.
Hi Rick, regarding nanotechnological and ceramic coating, I personally think that in the summer the Ceramic coating would be very good for UV rays and excessive heat while the nanotechnological towards the winter, this is my opinion. With "DJI" when you want, press the trigger if it's a step forward, for polishing, I also feel safer inside the garage but mine has a bit of dust and my concern is that it will cause damage if the dust it is then found in the pad or on the surface of the car, polishing outdoors must be a sunny day without wind, does the DA FINE cream from Rupes cause any problems if it is cold or if it is too hot? Thanks for the information you leave me, I really like sharing these car detailing techniques with you, I'm waiting for your response, take care Rick, you're always the best...😉👍🤙
I have been going back and forth with the decision of sticking with my SQ5 or purchasing something new but the car buying situation here is a bit crazy these days. All in good time.
Have you used other coatings in the past and experienced different results? What is the expected (per manufacturer) durability of the coating you’re using?
The Nano Resin Pro coating boasts some impressive durability claims, but something is getting in the way of it performing the way it should, and does for others. I'll keep at it. I am hopeful I can figure it out. Most coatings last me about a year before they start to break down and wear away. Especially on the rear. The rear portion of my car is covered in salt half the year.
Enjoyable as always, Rick! Loved the opening statement 😂 The foam was crazy thick, do you attribute that more to the canon or the product? Or combo of both?
I have used the MJJC twice and both times the foam production was epic. I have noticed the MJJC canister empties way quicker than my other canisters, so that has a lot to do with it. When I do a video like this, I use a lot of foam, but with the MJJC I had to use a lot more
There's days where I enjoy every second of the process, but there are days when I just want to get it done. For the most part, washing my car relaxes me and leaves me 100% satisfied.
Brilliant as always Rick. Loved the into! 😆. Can’t beat the sweet smell of drippy cherry snow foam. Any particular reason why you mixed Greenstar on the 2nd foam application and not the first? Or was the 1st GSF application enough to get rid of majority of crud? 🙂👍
Hi Nadine. Yes, the initial foam was just to emulsify the hardened crust of dirt and salt. Adding the GS to the bucket was my attempt to raise the stakes and give the GSF a little more "bite". I could have used GS in the initial foam, but I like to approach with caution. In the coming weeks, I am going to get even more aggressive as an experiment in unlocking any hidden hydrophobics. Come May or June, I will probably use a new coating. I have yet to find a coating that can honestly handle the abuse this city inflicts on a car.
It most definitely would of benefited from a water spot remover after the wash. Salt will clog coatings everytime. You can’t neutralize salt with salt(alkaline products) try this next time Rick
After the hand wash apply a Waterspot remover like diy detail water spot remover & work into section with a damp microfiber then rinse. Your hydrophobics will be restored 100% if it’s a quality coating
@@RADGarage you could also use carpro descale instead of gsf. It also good. Use descale for winter & gsf for spring/summer. Not as effective as the separate wsr but for general clogging it’s effective
I will apply this process on my next wash. I'm not sure I will have the time to showcase it on video, but I will let you know the result. Hopefully, I will have the time to showcase the results on video.
Not sure it’s been asked and not sure if you will see this Rick, but what is that black foam cannon on the counter @ 7:35. Couldn’t find it with a google search. Thanks!!
Hey, I see every comment! That is a foam cannon from my friends at D-Tail Lab in Quebec. I haven't used it much, but I did feature it in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TUgliFav41U.html If you scroll to the description for that video, I have provided a link.
