Just to address couple of things... to those with comments of this nature: _"...umgh, you should use smaller soldering iron tip bro...""_ - no, I don't want to. I have at least 6 different tips, each for its own application, two different soldering irons, each one with about the same accessories. I know smaller tip is easier to work with. But for some people, even bigger tips do not pose any problem to get nice and precise, small soldering connections. It would take me more time to wait until it's not hot, few seconds to replace the tip, and then wait additional time to get it to the desired temperature. When I'm doing this and controlling my cameras for recording in the same time, I am chasing the daylight, so I don't have time for unnecessary moves. Fat tip does amazing job too, so it stays like that unless I feel like I need to swap it :) Second thing: _"...you should use washers with TPU parts..."_ - why? What is the gain in doing that? Adding additional weight to the total weight of the quad is not a benefit. None of the motor securing screws are even slightly touching the TPU in arm guards. I've explained in many of my videos what is the reasoning for spending so much time on designing SNAP-ON arm guards that never even see those screws with Loctite applied. They simply snap-on onto the arm ends and they stay there. At least I am 100% sure my motors are always securely screwed to the carbon frame. As for the Camera mount TPU. If you look closer, you'll notice those screw holes are made of two terrace levels. The fat, outside one is to keep everything protected, and the inside one is where screw head stops and can't go any further. It's not even touching the carbon frame, it sandwiches that TPU portion and it even gives quite some backwards pressure to keep the screw from ever turning the opposite way, making itself lose. I thought of couple of things before designing all these 3D parts :)
Thank you my Sunshine state friend! I can't wait till this rain-mageddon finally stops. It's pouring last couple of days, which is totally not normal for this dry area where we live. Can't wait to give it some proper sky tour :)
Thanks for watching. You saw my 1st and 2nd builds while ago? My very 1st build: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--8mMqIQadS4.html and this is my 2nd build: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Wa4LB4P_7z4.html
@@Seii-FPV yuppp! I saw all 3 customized build by you. They are surely pretty drones, you have your own name logo on your prints for your drones are really coolest! I do have ender 3 pro printer, but don't know how to put my own name (InDronesWeTrust1) on my drone. I have my printer since August of 2020 and it's still working like champ! 👍🏼
Thank you so much! I'm trying my best since I've entered this FPV craze maybe even little too late in my life. I wish I knew about all this when I was 20-25 years old lol.
Receiver's GND to GND on your FC, Receiver's 5v pad to 5V pad on your FC. Receiver's Rx to FC's Tx, and Receiver's Tx to FC's Rx. Whichever UART is assigned to your FC to be dedicated for connecting the receiver, you should use that. Every FC comes with wiring diagrams, so it's quite easy to find out which one should you use.
Thank you for watching my video. I am not quite sure, I've never used it. But, if you visit IntoFPV forums, I am sure there will be tons of people ready to assist, and you'd find solution in no time.
Unfortunately, I don't have any 3D models for GepRC and using the ones that came with the frame. The only ones I've designed are snap-on arm guards (those ones in red), and the GoPro hard mount base... but that base is almost the same like the one provided by GepRC anyway. You can find a lot of 3D STL files for Mark 5 here: www.yeggi.com/q/geprc+mark5
