I'm in the UK and watch a guy using these rods on crawly hospital, They made a nice solid fillet weld. I grabbed a few as I am learning stick and have a play. I have only used 6013 but I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Another great vid Bob.
i love and respect when a grown ass man says "man i learned a lot", even while doing something hes been doing his whole life! takes a man to say that lol
I'm 27 welded pipe, nuclear work, ETC and I can say this you hit every thing on the head I do when you weld this stuff haha don't let these haters tell you other wise
7016 its nice rod to weld. some manufacture are way nice to run then other. you can weld trough rust and paint if you to its not good but it can be done. its a tipical maintance rod. we in europe we use 7016 for nearly everthing. its a good compromise
7016 used a lot for open root stick over here in UK/Europe Bob. We used to use 6010/7010 a lot as well but some root work has now gone over to TIG root wherever possible but main transmission pipelines still use Cellulosics.
I love using these rods...I tend to run them abit hotter. Up near 100amps to 120amps from a mobile Mosa generator. Burns in nice, I love the ceramic/glass looking flux, it cleans off easily. Bit more expensive than 7018, but I find them better to hold in the heat and the flux don't peel off like a 7018 rod flux.
Hey Bob, I'm currently a student working on my UA-60 cert, it's 2.75" OD coupon 6010 root 7018 fill and cap. I'm having trouble on my tie-ins starting at 6 o'clock, we're allowed to stagger them slightly, a half in. either way from 6 o'clock. If you guys could fit this it it would be much appreciated. Thanks for everything you guys do!
Hi bob when you start at the bottom of the plate hold it there till it drops a big ball of molten slag then start traveling up . I do my open roots with 2.5mm at 68 amps . Then turn my hot start %up high and the time up to 2 secs to help my tie ins I hope this helps . It also helps if you have a have A little remote .
I LOVE this, I know it's 6 years ago, but damn... I just love seeing experienced welders try something different. I'm from Norway and we use 7016 above all else here as well. And let me tell you... When I see Bob try something as spectacular as the 7016's we have here in Europe I just can't help but turn a smile. it's lovely, I've run alot of 7016's and the best ones I've come across is the ESAB 53.16 and the ELGA P47D. I have tried the UTP rods as well. and they are really good (My shop almost adopted those rods) My favourite by far is the ESAB 53.16
We did use 6010's and 7010's extensively over here in UK for overland pipeline work and some early refinery etc works. The use of low hydrogen rods for root passes increased with the quality of electrodes back in the late 70's early 80's The 7016 was/is a definite improvement over most 7018's.
In Spain, some decades ago, the 7016 was the first choice in low hydrogen sticks for all of us who have got a humble AC power source. Really, not every AC machine is advisable for it, but without doubt, less demanding than the 7018. UTP are from the group Boehler, which makes second to none welding sticks.
I had been waiting for a demo on 7016 , nobody except you Bob would do it. I bought an old welders equipment for 500 bucks and with it came about 120 lbs of rods. One as I snooped thru the collection I found a pack of 7016 in a plastic bag first I thought they were 7018,, with reading glasses on 7016, so I tried them,,, wow smooth soft arc no spatter but brown slag not grey or black. Chipped off easy. Could not tell bead from 7018. Only supplier I can find is Lincoln , anybody know of other suppliers in North America , sure would like to get some more, Bob have you tried them again what it your final opinion ,thanks.
Oerlikon in Sweden used to make a 7016 called a "Supercito". In the overhead position the slag used to hang down in strings like hot glass. Very good electrode. l
Hey Bob! I am a first year student here at a local college in East Texas. I am having a lot of trouble with open root 6010 in the flat and horizontal positions. I’ve watched your videos where you talk about moving the keyhole and how to restart, etc... but could you possibly do a video explaining the basics of open root stick welding. I am using a 1/8” E6010 for root and hot pass, and a combination of 1/8” and 3/16” E7018 for fill and cap. I am really just having a hard time understanding the foundations and the basics of open root stick welding and it is my passion to become a pipe welder. Thank you.
These are used in the North Sea oil industry for 50D material 50c pre heat.2.5mm rods for rooting using a 3.25mm gap and 1/16 root face.Around 80 amps DC- for root DC+ for all other runs.Much prefer AC for these rods tho as you get arc blow with DC sometimes.Not used as much nowadays been overtaken by core wire.
Hey Bob, I’m here in Oklahoma. Oneok and Enlink and a couple of other NG companies, use 7016 open butt and a branch, for their in-service tests. I’ve taken two tests, and we found Kobe 7016 runs way better than Lincoln 7016.
we use these alot down here in new zealand and austrailia great rod very easy to use they strike easy and great in all positions and the puddle is easy to use, but you still cant beat a 7018 for doing high quality work.
I run open root with 7015 B2L 1/8'' around 90 amps but the gap is about 3/32'' it is like anything else. It was tuff at first and I did some grinding but after a few welds I got the hang of it. The WPS says DCEP for polarity so that is the only current I ever tried. It is a hot fluid puddle no whipping away. The trick is getting no porosity because the welds get turned off on a lathe. I start a good way back behind the crater and let the weld clean out and sneak onto the crater slow and get a good remelt. Then I grind the hill down before the hot pass. I am not saying this is the only way or the best way but I have found success with it. I roll the parts with one hand and weld with the other. The amps setting has to be very close or it becomes hard. You can't get away with very much heat so you need to make sure the ground is very good. These rods do like to fingernail and if they start that the best thing to do is just stop, clean grind and start again. You want to check the condition of the flux on every welding rod just before use if the rod is not centered good don't use it on the root pass, also check for chipped or missing flux. You are walking the line so every little detail counts. I put the rod in the stinger then pull my hand down it briskly, if the rod jumps a groove in the stinger mid weld that can be hard to recover from, that stuff loves to pinhole. Since I am rolling it and welding it at the same time I work from somewhat uphill to flat in just depending on what the puddle is telling me it wants. I hope this helps someone because the guy who did the job before me would not show me a thing. I have been helped by other welders and helped other welders. It is really no big loss his workmanship was not impressive. The best welders will show you anything they know. There is nothing better than hearing people brag about how good someone is that you taught, that is when you know you are paying back the people that taught you. You can take all the plate, block and pipe test in the world but every new job represents a new challenge and exposes what you could be better at. I had a good education when I left Hobart but my basic skills had me ready to be trained fairly easy not better than the men who had been there years before me. I graduated Hobart 20 years ago and I still am learning and wanting to learn.
We use 7016 welding up dirty rusty truck chassis in holland. Usually welding cracks between crossbeam joints. At around 85/ 90 amps. With the basic 7016 3.5mm you get a oke weld and no blow through holes in one go. Rutiel 6012 6013 just burns holes or looks like bird shit. I use a very old esab machine on 380volts.... oh and the 7016 slag dosent burn zo deep in my arm pits. 6012 and 6013 are a bitch like that
Seems to burn somewhat like 6013 although I never really liked it and barely used it. Gotta watch that video again and try 6013 on vertical open root. Good video thank you.
Richard Valcourt e6013 run muffing like 7016 on open root the 7016s will run with really low amps . If you can get hold of some get them . Try to get 3/32 2.5 mm . You will love them
At work any in service welds like putting on laterals, o let's, split Ts ext.. are 7018,8018 on DCEP. They also PT, MT root and final, and hydro at 1200psig. If you could show something like that it would be great . Also maybe from root bends.
Really like a demonstration on tacking aluminum. Super easy I am sure but it's giving me struggles. Like to see you tack a normal aluminum t joint and lap.
Here in Australia we have a L 6012 SM ( Smooth Arc ), this is the most common available electrode along with 6013 that I don't care for either. Swapping from 6013 to 6012 changed my welding! We literally cannot buy off the shelf 6010/6011/7014/7018 etc that we see in the common weld videos! I personally find the L 6012 rods very nice to run for general purpose and I'm a complete amateur! I'd love to send you a few rods and see what you make of them!
Where do you buy your rods from? I walked into the local industrial shop the other day and grabbed a pack of 6011. Found them cheaper than the usual general purpose rods too. And they have a full range of all other types aswell.
stevo450ify where are you getting these 6012's? I to am in Australia and less than impressed with the general 6013's on offer. I hate all CIG rods, dunno what they do to them but I have always found them a hard rod to run, always need 15 - 20 amps more than any other rod to get a smooth arc. I've been using hampton 6013's which are okay, but I'd like to try the 6012's your mention.
So I have to take back my comment... I just walked in to buy 7018 😂 anyways still interesting to see what Bobs thoughts are on the 6012! I personally prefer the Lincoln brand ( not that I've tried much else ) but they work well! Going to try some 7018 for the first time!
Looks like halfway you went from going straight in to dragging the rod pointed down. That’s when you started having problems. Maybe I’m wrong. Just an observation. Love your videos. Thanks!
We have a welding consumables manufacturer here in Slovenia called Elektrode Jesenice, they produce atleast 4 types of 7016 electrodes and each is for different purpose. Similar story with 6013. Is this a thing with other manufacturers like Lincoln and ESAB aswell? If you are interested I could ship you some of products they produce and you could review them. Best regards from Slovenia.
Jap elektrode jesenice so zakon. Sem jaz tudi ponudil da bi poslal 7018 ko sem jih pomotoma nabavil. Mam un star trafo varstroj pa najboljš mi dela na rutilenkih. So pa hvalil 7018 evb15 pa sem jih vzel pol pa ugotovil da niso prave za ac mašino...
When i was in school my teachers would say the only thing you should keep on your night stand is a pack of 2,5mm 7016 electrodes (filarc 36D to be exact)
Also wondering about this. Is 100 amps with 50hz the same as with 60hz. I have seen like a sign on a mill that can be connected to both 50hz and 60 hz. And it's put out higher rpm on 60hz. So is it different with welding equipment to?
Since the wave peaks are closer together at 60hz rather than 50hz it would seem to be a little hotter arc as if it were higher voltage. Not much just a little hotter.
I used 7016 a lot when I was working in the machine shop for Missouri Drydocks, I used it to weld large tail shafts together, to me they where very much like 7018 , I still don’t know what makes them different
Tom C I disagree. I have several brands of 7016 rods (Lastek, Lincoln Electric and Boehler) and all can be run on DCEP and DCEN. They all run very nice on both polarities unlike 7018 which usually runs better on DCEP. For a low hydrogen root 7016 on DCEN is the perfect rod in my opinion.
DC neg old mate, quick freezing slag, very smooth arc, slag just peels off. KOBELCO (S Korea) make just about the best '16's in the world, we down under use them for everything not just root/hot pass. 6010's went out of style (here) in about....1980?
DC neg old mate, quick freezing slag, very smooth arc, slag just peels off. KOBELCO (S Korea) make just about the best '16's in the world, we down under use them for everything not just root/hot pass. 6010's went out of style (here) in about....1980?
@@naytor2806 I'm learning to weld just been using CIG and BOC 6013s I use 6mm mild to make everything i've been told I should move away from the GP rods and use a say a WIA 16TC or alike (welding shop here mostly sells WIA) what do you think? I mostly just weld brackets for stuff nothing structural
By the way would you like to try some Slovenian 7018 rod? (From what I heard totaly different from the USA stuff) I accedently bought it (i have an ac buzzer) and its a dc rod. Everyone was bragging how well it performs and one guy is an internacional welder and also swears by this rod..
I have tried a lot of different 6013 rods in my welding shop and I have found there are definitely differences. Hobart 6013 and then Raynor 6013 seem to be the best. Better penetration and no slag pockets. They run downhill at 135 amps excellent without the slag overtaking the weld pool. The hobarts have a noticeable lighter covering and more aggressive arc on AC. Weld profile and appearance are very nice. I used to hate 6013 too. Get some Hobarts and practice. You will like them.
as a new welder on the job ,many years ago. i welded a lifting lug for the ironworkers. they were installing a tank into place.. i noticed when i finished welding i had used 7018 in en. man was i nervous, when they made the lift. however, all went well and the job got done. i said nothing and, all went, as planed, .but i was nervous . so i can tell you 7018 with the right amps. in en will do the job. note...depends on the job of-course and the procedures ,as well as material.
Daniel McConnell you can run 2.5mm e7016 at 65 amps dcen on open root you kinda gently push so you get a little resistance and slowly travel up . Turn your hot start up high and increase the time of the hot start so you don't have to long arc .
From our local manufacturer datasheets, 7016 has more in common with 6010 rather than 7018. It's applications are mostily root welding vertical down (pipes) and thin sheet metal welding. I personally haven't came acros this electrode anywhere but we only do structural welding not piping. Best regards from Slovenia.
Northen Sweden Welding. With 7016 the weldpool is less fluid than with 7018 so this rod makes it a lot easier to do an open root. I know you master the 7018 open root, but for us less experienced welders the 7016 is a better choice for a low hydrogen root.
Matic Sodja What on earth are you talking about?? Vert down?? Sheet metal?? Do you have any idea what you're talking about? They are a basic (low hydrogen rod) have absolutely nothing at all in common with a 6010 high cellulose rod. 7016 were developed for putting root passes into pipe butts, where high tensile steels are used, in high pressure applications where 6010 roots simply do not cut the mustard. They are the same as a 7018 with no iron powder in the flux. They dont run vert down at all.
@@ragnarmarnikulasson3626 Not advisable to whip back into the pool as this causes porosity. The gap has to be constant so when you get your current just right you keep your key hole and just move, too big it falls in, too small lack of pen
When I had my shop, (1972-1993), I ran a lot of 11016 in 3/32 and 1/8. I had one job where I certified with that rod. From what I saw you were running it at to high of an angle and 'yes' I always had a keyhole. I think I ran hotter too. If I remember correctly the thickest was 1-1/2" plate. (That was a lot of passes.)
I hate to say this (not), but i told you so. ;) 7016 are great rods for low hydrogen open root. Here in Europe Lincoln Electric has 5 different 7016 rods in their line up and there are a lot of other companies that supply several 7016 electrodes for different applications. As far as i can find on the internet Lincoln Electric in the USA only have one 7016 electrode in their line up. The Fleetweld 16P. I wonder why that is.
Any body else have porosity problems with 7016 rods. Ive try different brands of them and have problems. ive put them in a rod oven, cleaned the metal and tried different amp settings. I don't have any problems with other rods like 7018. Other wise there ok rod to use.
462ta we use a lot of 7016 rods at work and find if you long arc them at all they will get porosity, give yourself an extra 5-10 amps and feed that stick in and see how you go 👍🏻
Need info. ?..... "Google"... tells all. They are all over the world. I bet "RU-vid" or something like it is all over the world too. There must be lots of info. about the use of foreign welding products. I bet we could learn a lot if we all just expanded our horizons a bit.
