03 Murray Craftsman Riding Mower Spindle Bearing & Blade change part 2 

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya hi Keith; update - it worked! I’m mowing again, smoothly this time. Big difference. Blessings to you! Jason

I also do that now too, LOL. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks Allan those are good tips. Thanks for watching & I hope it helped you. Best Wises & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Really good Idea, I've never heard of that. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You're welcome SM. Hope it all works out good for you. Make sure you watch both videos all the way through as I show it from start to finish with part numbers ect. Also resist the urge to just unbolt the spindle housings as the bolts just snap off, then you have to drill and tap or buy whole new Spindle assemblies. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Question. After you were finished did you inject grease into the spindle? If so what kind did you use?

Nope I didn't, since it didn't have any in it when I pulled it apart and it ran fine for over a year, until my son blew the transmission out of it. I would just use some general purpose axle grease for a car from the automotive store. If it can keep a car bearing cool at highway speeds all day long and do it day in and day out it should keep those spindle bearing cool. Hope that helps out. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Thanks Robert. Yeah it wasn't to hard for me, and was a fun time with my son. I have an extensive background in vehicle repairs, from military fighters to your average house car, and electronics. I do appreciate the nice comment. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

Hey Jimmy you're right, I too thought it odd that they would have a grease fitting but no way for the grease to get into the bearings. I guess they don't go bad too often. Mines a 2003 and they were never changed to my knowledge as they were clean inside. No grease or any real wear in the spindle tubes. You can buy one sided sealed bearings, or rip one side out if you would like to ensure the grease gets in there. But since they had lasted that long I figured it didn't really matter. Thanks for the like and the comment. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

I'm told the grease fitting is for the shaft so it doesn't get rusted in. it is not for the sealed bearings. i just coat the shaft with grease before I put it together. the real issue is that none of the videos nor the parts list show where to get the ball bearings that go into the Blade adapter cup on Murray 38" year 2000.

All u had to do is gently pull the plastic off both sides and pack the bearing with some good grease..then replace them.OR do the same as he said.

I use that now on just about any area that might have moisture get on them. Super advice I agree 100%. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks for the tip! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

For sure if I was going to be doing that on a regular basis I'd probably get one, a block of wood is a lot cheaper and if it gets loose out of your hand it's not going to cut you like an impact wrench will. Still a good tip if you use the block of wood with it. Best wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya I of course always use a 2x4 when I remove the blade. Sorry if it was confusing the way I put it into words.

@@leodanryan966 Eh no problem, I was pretty sure you meant that. I was just making sure, in case someone else got the wrong idea. Seriously I've met all kinds of nuts and some real clueless people on the channel and don't want anyone to get hurt. Hope all works out on your project bud. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Got that right!

Thanks Jesse I appreciate the tip. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

That is definitely the easiest way to do them. The metal shavings on mine were the machining flakes that they didn't clean out. Anyways good luck with your project. BWNB Keith

I just screwed the nut down level with the top of the shaft and used a big hammer to knock the old bearings out. Then I put them in one at a time with a big hammer and a large deep socket. Make sure you put the long side bearing in first or your deep socket may be to short to install them on the long side. I'm not sure on the boot, I would just order them to help keep grass and moisture off the top bearing. If you remove the whole spindle assembly out don't forget to purchase some new bolts for it as the old ones will most likely snap off when you remove them. Make sure and watch both videos for the most information. Hope it all works out good for you. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Yep you're 100% right. I just find it less expensive to repair them than purchase new ones. When Before you pull yours apart check the part number under the rubble boots, then you'll know what bearings to order. That way you can continue to cut the lawn until the new ones come in. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

That's a very good idea on heating the self tapping bolts. You're the first person to mention that on any comment or video I've seen or heard. Well gotta go Leo. Thanks for contributing and watching. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

Nis Boye Hi Boye you're right I went and reviewed both videos and I never showed how I got the first bearing out or the other side, sorry about that. To get the bearings out: 1. Drop the deck and place it on two saw horses. 2. Take off the blade and pulleys. 3. Put one of the nuts on the on the opposite side level with the top of the shaft to protect the threads and bang it out with a small sledge hammer. 4. I mention this in Part 1 but never actually showed it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gBlvT95hbWI.html time index. 7:00 to 7:30. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comments. Keith

Take the blade off then spray Blast OFF. Put the nut from the blade back on to protect the threads. then just tapped the nut.,

I don't think so, as when I pulled mine apart there was no grease in there. The bearings the manufacture used are a sealed type, so even if you put grease in the tube I don't think it would even make it into the bearings. Hope that sufficiently answers your question. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks!

Mine didn't have one, that's interesting. I don't think it needs one as the hub itself has a step for the bearings. That's still interesting though. I'd put it back in as long as its not loose so it doesn't unbalance the spindle assemblym which would cause the bearing to go bad sooner. Hope the video helped. If it did please give it a thumbs up, if not let me know what I could have done better or heck both. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

A very good tip. I've actually done that before. But I like the height of a socket, it's easier on the finger tips. LOL. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

I just use the old bearing couse its the same size as the new one an I still use a socket with an extension so you can hang on to the extension an pound on the old bearing so you don't hurt the new one

Yep that's also a good idea. But I only do that if the bearing has to be seated below the lip of the where it's going in. I still find the socket it the best option so that the bearing below doesn't slip sideways and damage the new bearing, as I've accidentally done that a few times. Since almost exclusively using the socket method I've not had that problem. Guess some of us are more coordinated that others. LOL Gave you thumbs up on your comments too, as they're good ones. Again Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Hey Stan, hum that's weird, I guess as long as it works that's what counts. Hope the video helped. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

Older Murray mowers had a spacer that was separate from the jackshaft.

Alphonso Rodgers It's appears to obviously be a fuel blockage or reduced fuel flow problem as it runs for awhile. Here's some suggestions for you to check. 1. Fuel cap may be a vent cap and if it gets plugged with age it won't be able to breath and will vacuume lock the fuel system. A quick check is to lossen the cap and see if the problem goes away or takes longer for it to die than when it's screwed on tight. If this is so replace the cap/clean it. Also your fuel tank may have a separate vent if it's not a vent cap, check for one and ensure it's clear. 2. Fuel solenoid is intermitant or the wireing is. Check it out after the engine stalls. When you turn the key on you should feel it click/move. 3. Fuel bowl is contaminated with debri in it and eventually works it way into the fuel inlet hole and cuts off the fuel. After it shuts off the debri falls away allowing the engine to restart until it works it way into the fuel inlet again. To fix this remove the carburator fuel bowl and inlet valve/needle valve and give the carburator a thorough cleaning. Usually just start by pulling the fuel bowl and if it has a fair amount of sludge and debri just remove the carb to, if there's only a little debri run a small paper clip or bread tie twisty wire throught the fuel jet holes and retry it. Note when you remove the bowl and jet you may have to replace the gaskets as they normally tear, so have a set on hand. 4. Lastly although it sounds like a fuel problem if the electrical shuts down so does the fuel cutoff solenoid. If have a bad wire or intermitant wire, or ignition switch this could cause the problem. If it's a ingnition switch ussually the headlights won't work or you won't have any spark. So check those head lights and spark out. If this is the problem you'll need the schematic and some experience with wire troubleshooting. If you don't have these skills i'm sorry to say it but you're in the hurt locker. You'll have to get a friend with those skills to help you or pay a small engine shop to diagnose and fix it for you. Hope this helps, Jesus bless Yall, Keith.

+charles fields You're welcome Charles hope it helped. PS Remember don't remove the spindle case mounting nuts, just remove the blades, spindles and bearings, or the nuts will break off in the outer assembly when you try to remove them from the deck. Been there done that. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

+Keith Noneya Unfortunately I already broke one before I came here! Doh! My 46" has 3 blades, and they are all mounted different! The one I took off had 5 tapered screws with keeper nuts. The other end has the 5 screws, but no nuts. The one in the middle is all 5 nuts and bolts! Apparently the previous owner had trouble too.

WOW sounds like a lot of fun! Hope the video helped. When I went to change mine I said, "There's got to be a better way than just buying new ones". This is what I came up with since I couldn't find any videos on how to do it without removing the spindles. Best Wishes n Blessings keith.

+carlos garcia Hi Carlos Check to see that all the pulleys and blades turn freely or with very little friction. If they don't turn freely you've found your problem if they do check the belt routing of the belt that engages the pulleys for cutting. It could be an electrical problem. If all belts and pulleys check good check your seat safety switch to ensure that when you engage your blades the switch is not shutting your engine off thinking your off the mower. Of course does it drive with the blades disengaged? Hope this helps. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

Not enough power either from old gas especially if using the low grade 86 octane and obviously bad idle speed. After starting with good gas you rarely have to adjust the idle but you have to frequently clean the carburetor's rods and linkage with WD40 to get rid of the dirt that builds up from the dust of mowing. look underneath and see the spring and other small rods that must move freely as they open and close just from the vacuum of the piston. Without air gas ratio it won't run correctly. Twice a year you must use a light oil (silicone spray or( 3 in 1 Oil) to run down inside the cables and spray the control area linkage areas. If the cables don't make the lower linkages go to the original position even though it looks good at the top handle end, then it isn't going to run correctly. If the easy stuff doesn't work then the next level is air and gas filter or clean out the carburetor if old gas was left in it all winter.

Safety switch problem I had that issue when the seat switch went bad on my Lawn General which is a Murray.

I agree it would be nice to have tightened them down to the right torque specs but I've never had a problem with the blades or shafts and they have been working fine for years that way on all my mowers. We do need more folks like you here to help keep us safe though and point out the best way to do things, not joking or being sarcastic, it mean that. However I actually disagree with you on the parts substitution depending on how it's substituted. The bearing substitution is fine it's from the same family, meaning the speed hardness etc it's basically the same, and it's sealed like the original. When a manufacturer makes out a part list they have to pick "ONE" part out of possibly hundreds of parts that would easily meet or exceed the manufactures specifications. I do agree that if you are going to substitute a part you do have to do the research on the recommended part and make sure that you choose a suitable substitute that meets or exceeds the intended use. Some parts are a little less critical like blades and belts, but others like bearings or springs may need a little more attention to details. Thanks for the great comment and keep them coming. I will check them torque specs in the future. Please send me a link to the manual and page number and I will include it in the description below the video. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Murray Manuals are at www.murray.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html and the manual for the 42" Model 425008x8A is at www.murray.com/na/en_us/support/manuals/results.productmanuals.html?searchrequested=425008x8A.

Thanks shift.... I updated the Comments and included your information. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

I don't think that would work unless you put a Gates clamp around the bottom and top then hit it with a 2x4 and even then i'm not sure it wouldn't crack. Rather than a socket you also could try some plumbing fitting from your local hardware store. Hope that helps, let us know how it worked out. Thanks for watching Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

I don't know. I do know that I showed installing the Spacers on it and putting the blade on starting at time index 9:22. I hope you found something useful in the video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yep, every time after i mow with mine i take it out back by the garden hose and pee on it.. keeps it in shape and critters out of the shed without having to pee in the shed anymore,. Wife taught that to me when she was mowing while i was in a wheelchair.. she said everybody was real intrigued with it, showed all the neighborhood kids how to do it to take care of their mowers too.. must have really stupid neighbors though, took her at least 5 times to show him how to do it.. she said he kept peeing all over her and couldnt aim right.. that feller let me tell ya..