Great Vid. I believe the TSB is talking about the rusty bracket at the top/beside the valve cover under the connector wire. You can see how the wire coming out of the connector can rub against it.
john mwangi I'm glad to hear that you're learning, that's the reason why I'm doing this, hopefully my Knowledge and experience can benefit Those who need it, more videos are coming!!!
This is great info. I am troubleshooting a similar issue using a simple obd2 tool. I am showing about .8v once the engine warm but my 02 sensor will respond rapidly if I cause a vacuum leak or block the air intake. I suspect the sensor is working and something else is causing the steady .8v but I don’t know where to go from here. I do have a sensor so I might just replace it even though I don’t like doing it without troubleshooting it completely. Have to inspect the harness first. Good video man!
billnu if the 02 sensor is responding to the oxygen content in the exhaust, that means the sensor is most likely good, check your fuel trim numbers , at idle under under load, what kind of numbers are you getting? you might have a leaking injector, which is causing a rich condition
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I’m not sure. I tried using my really cheap obd2 code reader. There are 4 possible data sources and 3 are flatlined. One reads from 1 to 3%. Not sure if it’s reading right
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Tried again this morning. Looks like short term bank 1 is around 3% and long term bank 1 is around 3 as well, I don’t think it was quite warmed up, just checked on the way to work. The short term was -3 to -6 at the cold start or shortly after. The high o2 voltage comes during the warmup too. It goes to 1.2v during that period and then the light came on.
Its a good idea to bend that bracket down, so the edge does not rub through the wire on the B1 S1 fuel trim oxygen sensor. Common issue on the Mazda 3.
Hi i have a mazda 3 or axela 2009, hatchback. Its cranking but can not start. Long story short, it rolled over upside down but i immediately stopped the engine (i did not die or get injured). After several diagnostics found out here's no signal power from the computer box to cause a spark from the spark plugs and the fuel injectors are not spitting anything. I even changed the fuel pump but to no avail. Are there any sensitive sensors that i need to check out for the car to start? It spilled oil, fluids after the accident but i carefully refilled.
Swart Michael Law Good to hear you are fine!! check the crank sensor and wiring! since you don't have injector pulse and spark, start by checking the crank sensor
Bro, Thanks I got the long test leads from AESWAVE.Com, these leads are awesome, I think they are 10 feet long! you can sit in the car with the scope while everything is connected under the hood, pretty cool!!! very helpful for finding intermittents problems with the scope connected while test driving the car!!!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair that's exactly what I had in mind lol and the different colors to help with ease of identifying what channel is on what sensor. I'm going to order me some BNC ones
This guy knows what he's talking about a year ago my Mazda 3 2008 has begun shaking and hesitating when I come to a stop or when I change between gears while it's not moving plus losing of power, I've tried everything almost from cleaning sensors to changing most of them , changed the generator, flushed the intake manifold and the catalytic converter as well, lately I'm getting this check engine light and getting the code p0660 any idea please, I don't trust the mechanics in my city, they're just guessing, I really want so bad to understand what is going on, I'll appreciate any sort of information
Great video, I have the same car with O2 light looking to get it replaced. My question is what would happen if you keep the car running without getting it replaced? Also where did you buy yours?
What tool did you use? I can't find the wiring for my o2 sensor on my car i have a Volvo s40 2003 2.0i. my o2 sensor 1 is fluctuating at 1.28v to 0.02 and p0138 on sensor 2 i don't know what to do maybe wiring is bad i don't know. Can you maybe check on your Scantool the wiring diagram for my car brother? Thanks
I have the same problem, and after reset the CEL the Long term fuel trim hover around 10-6 and Short term fuel trim around 0-6. What is happening here? Thanks
I need some help please. I have a maZda 3 and my car is running perfect, but is not passing inspection because of different codes . The mechanic told me that I gotta her e new computer but he don’t allow me to buy the computer , he said he but it in order to provide a warranty . Tell me please tell me if that is a common practice or I should run from him
Lo veo Y no lo creo you should have a pro mechanic look at it for you! it's a bit hard to tell exactly what is wrong with it, without looking at it! especially since it has a lot of codes stored!
Hi, on my OSB2 I am not getting any trim % It's a flat line. There is 14 volts to the green lead, the two leads ohm at 5 ohms, I changed the O2 sensor and still the same. I checked the continuity from the sensor to the ECU connector and it tones good. Any ideas? Thanks
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I used a bluetooth scanner and a hard wired one. This is a true error because the car will hesitate on acceleration and I can smell the PCV fumes when driving around town. I can send you picture of the log and a screen shot of both... is there a way to send them to you?
I had same problem P0138 high voltage on my honda Crv. It was observed after diagnostic the sensor 2 is not active exactly seen on your video. I have to order to change Bank 1 Sensor 2
Um... I thought that you cannot back probe A/F sensors, like a traditional Oxygen sensor. They normally stay at 5 volts and have minor fluctuations in current not voltage. It will still show you the voltages in the scan tool like a traditional O2 Sensor, but that is because the computer translates it to make it compatible with OBDII data.
FrugalPrepper's Garage & Garden yeah you can back probe the A/F sensor to check the wiring of the sensor!! it can be difficult to check the sensor itself, especially if it's a wideband sensor
