In this video we get a low idling Mazda 3 that wants to stall on deceleration. We confirmed no faults and carried out a throttle body clean and idle speed relearn which fixed the customers complaint.
Just another comment to say thankyou, 2006 BK Mazda, changed all engine mounts then stalled on slowing or stopping, but would only do when engine coolant was cold, once warm it wouldn’t do it. Issue solved with a strip and clean of the throttle body and a relearn, cheers mate 🤟🏽
From one Aussie to another, thank you very much. This is my exact issue on my 2013 BL manual. I’m off to buy a TB gasket and some cleaner. Appreciate your guide on battery disconnect and idle relearning.
Update: Stripped Throttle Body and MAF out. Cleaned with CRC TB cleaner and CRC MAF cleaner respectively. Rebuilt, burped coolant whilst warming up. Calibrated perfectly at 760rpm for the manual which was up from 510rpm before. No more stalling at intersections after test drive. Whole repair cost $59 including cans and gasket as I had a bit of a credit at Supercheap.
My Mazda3 was stalling and rough idle while standing still. After a lot of diagnosis and an OBD2 reader saying "Fuel System Open Loop 01". It turns out two of the 4 cylinders had air leaks on the intake manifold. The garage replaced all 4 gaskets to be on the safe side. Car now runs like brand new!
I had a customer a couple of years ago regarding a Mazda 3, with a very interesting issue related to pretty much the same thing, only it was an early model, similar engine to the one you showed but it had a cable/mechanical throttle body. Customer stated it ran fine one day, and was a crank no-start the next. When cranking, it cranked very fast and sounded like it had no compression on any cylinder. I did a compression test, and sure enough it only had 5psi, on all 4 cylinders. I thought, that's a bit unusual for all 4 to be so low, and all were pretty much identical psi? I was starting to question my compression gauge, I didn't even think about the fact I forgot to open the throttle body when I did the compression test, but this was actually a lucky mistake. I did an intake manifold cranking vacuum test next and I had about 25in/Hg while cranking!!?? I though, BINGO, and tried cranking the engine with my foot slightly on the throttle pedal, and BOOM she fired up, but it would stall as soon as I took my foot off the pedal. I pulled the intake tube off and inspected the throttle body and butterfly. The rear of the butterfly looked like the one you showed, and the throttle body had a nice ring of carbon all the way around. I removed and cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve. Fitted them back on and it fired right up and idled perfect, this time without touching the throttle pedal. For a minute there I was ready to condemn that engine!! Suffice to say, I learned something very useful that day🤣👍🇦🇺
Hi mate I have a mazda 3 2010 when you start on cold condition and put on reverse gear the will be engine cutting off and when it's reach a normal temperature it's hardstarting or too hot no dtc code thanks hopefully you can give advice
Sometimes the vehicle don't take the idle relearn procedure. Was there an IAC stepper motor pid? I try to look at it from cold start so i can see what the IAC is doing. To see if its responding to the relearn.
l need advice with mazda Axela with 1.5 petrol engine 2004.no power when accelerating.up hill almost is gonna stop and idling is sometime is low below 600. Any idea what to check. Thanks
Mate, Interesting your scan tool says it's 2005 , that vin on bottom of screen is a blue mazda 3 from W.A 2008 it's definitely as you say at the start being a 2008 .the pids are different from 2005 which your scan tool says and 2008 , The change over from cable throttle to drive by wire happened from 06/2006 , so there will be differences between pids and particularly in active command setting on the scan tool .Just for Reference on mazda 3 and 6 the 8th digit on vin is F 2.0 petrol 3 2.3 usually sp23 L 2.5 sp25 5 2.5 Diesel , well who really cares about them . A really good swap is the 2.5 bottom end particular in the turbo MPS its rated to 450hp in standard form they have forged internals . When going from cable throttle to drive by wire the differences are intake cam trigger wheel crank trigger wheel Coil 2 wire upto 6/06 Coil 3 wire 6/06 - 2013 I've put 2.3 and 2.5 from late model into earlier stuff which is good performance upgrade just by changing those items . The A/C on bottom of sump has to be also considered with such swaps .
Hello, good morning, I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, it was presenting an electronic problem, without knowing I changed the battery, and nothing, I went on to change the alternator regulator, and well, I I bought, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing after a few minutes, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until that the battery discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to it, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less than less, that in a moment the battery goes, I recharge it, install it, and leave it connected for approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red alarm light was not flashing, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, did the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself what And this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, and then what is happening to you?, I have explained everything to you with hairs and bones, to see if you could help me determine the cause, because I do not understand it nor do I know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
