1:20 

It's a good idea to lightly sand away the burnt edges from laser cutting so the glue or epoxy can soak in and make a good bond.

So much to learn, thank you for the documentation and narrative! Some you tubers are silent through the whole build!!!

Good start Big B. While the boat could be built with the 1/16" plywood stringer as is (I’ll explain in a moment), I did send a replacement as I want Big B’s build to go as smoothly as possible. The tiny bit of twist in the frame is unimportant at this step, as the rest of the build will compensate for that. The first bit of skin that goes on is the control plate. It is laser-cut perfectly square and will begin to hold the bones in their proper orientation. I recommend some Windex and a Monokote iron to take out as much warp as possible. Hold the piece in the air (or on a curved surface), wet-out the suspect portion, hand-warp it opposite the existing warp and iron until dry. Since it was over-bent in the Windex/iron process, when it snaps back, it will be straight. Then glue everything together making sure the stringer fits snug on the bulkheads with no gaps and don’t worry about a tiny amount of twist in the framework. The “skeleton” has no torsional rigidity at all until the skins are applied, at which time they add the necessary torsional structure. The skinning is where you need to be careful in getting everything square. In fact, the hull will still twist a bit until the upper deck skin is installed. It is that point where the deck is installed that makes it one complete structure and care must be taken to insure the hull is square.

Just bought this boat from Dr jet and now I need to see how you did it. Thanks for the video. Bg4l

Great job she is looking sweet. Pretty exciting. Can’t wait to see her rip.

She's looking really good man I'm working on my first Woodkid to like I said fun fun

By the way, I think you are doing a great job so far....

This is truly a classic, tell us will it be proppin wheelies?

You might need to build a jig to hold your frame straight onto your flat surface while you build it that way it can't twist on you im currentlly building a gas mono from zipkits it brought a factory jig

That little piece on the front bulkhead needs to remain. Isn't there supposed to be a doubler on the turn fin side of Bulkhead C? My preference for TACKING the framework together is thin CA.

I thin out finishing resin (cure time 3 hours or more)epoxy wit rubbing alcohol. It thins it out for the wood to soak up so you can seal the wood. It will not have no strength due to thinning it out but you don't need strength you need it to seal. You cannot thin 5min 15 min or 30min epoxy it will turn to rubber when cured. I found out that longer cure times work best for thinning to just seal the wood. After 15 min I wipe the excess off to save weight.

NEWS FLASH!! The last known 1:20 Atlas Van Lines hydroplane kit in existence shipped out this morning. There are no more left. As of this writing, I have 5 Atlas "Short Kits" (1/16" ply parts only) available. I also have two full kits of the Short Circuit. Too bad there's not more interest in 1:20 racing; It's Fast, Cheap, and often times Out of Control.

Where did you order the kit from?