Good Heli pilots should always start by turning the strobe on before they do anything else! Good video, couple of notes. You unpowered your battery before powering electrics which I think is wrong way... Firstly Increase the engine rpm once the ftlb pressure is above 1. I increase slowly to prevent yaw of the helicopter due to the acceleration of the rotors. then I power transformers, inverters and rectifiers, unpower battery. You forgot to set the INS nav to compass on the small panel. There are two toggle switches, insure the top one is to the right, then press the tiny button below dial for about 5 or 6 seconds. Then center the toggle switch. When pressing the small button make sure not to turn the dial as that adjusts the current position. Very fiddly and possible, not bad to assign key if possible. When taking off I always release wheel brakes so that I can position the cyclic until heli doesn't move. That gives you a good starting point to take off. Slowly increase collective and counter any tiny moves and you should be able to life off gently. Personally, I never bother with trim unless flying in a straight line for a period of time. You can more easily learn to hover with the stick in its natural position as would real hind pilots. The only advantage they have is they can have a sort of stick hold as their trim but it's no great loss for virtual fliers. Trimming the stick to center could be problematic for some sticks if the user has to have a large null zone. Always fly without yaw autopilot unless heading for fairly long distances between waypoints etc... Makes turning much nicer and easier. Learn to fly by your vertical velocity gauge, it can be a real-life saver. I never go below 300 if below about 50 knots. Also when transitioning from forward to hover be prepared to add power! Above 50 knots or so then 500 or more can be ok but then overpitch could potentially be an issue if you need to slow down quickly. Great vid though If I think of anything I'll post back! BTW I have not really worked out how to use autohover. Seems pretty useless to me but if anyone has any tips!?
For the Airspeed to DISS off, i think its actually unnecessary. Below the Radio there is a small panel, that has an alingment button on it. If you press that for 5 sec, your Doppler nav functions properly. You can see that on the map, wich now tracks correctly, and you Drift/GS gauge wich shows realistic numbers.
Great video :D Another: Tip#11, don't roll and pull up too hard to turn around, it will mess with your gyros which makes certain elements such as the CCIP (equivalent) pipper to just be up to the left/right and nowhere near where the weapon will land, as well as some of the digital navigation elements of the avionics
Adding another, you have to be careful with loadouts. The manuals even recommend sticking with the included ones. Because of its design, you are limited with load diversity. So if you've armed everything and you still can't fire, chances are, you have an incompatible loadout. I think MG pod and rockets is one thing.
@@theonefrancis696 totally. This isn't the A-10C or Hornet. You can't just tell it what's strapped to the wing and away you go. The ability to put a Mav on pylon 1, a JSOW on 2, a HARM on 3, and a M-82 on 4 is a much more recent development.
i think best sink rate to avoid VRS is not higher than 3m/s from experience, above 3 depending on weight you will enter a mild VRS and still find it hard to get out of it. This is if you are basically hovering though. having motion in a direction (depending on the value of your velocity) will reduce the chances of VRS.
Good job.. So far good. U explained everyth very useful for me.. Just bought my hind P a week ago... And definitely that's so much better to learn everyth to deal with this beast... Obviously the ka-50 are more manœuvrable and probably better turn rate into combat to change rapidly the heading.. But hind is more faster... And I still appreciate to improve my mi-24 skill.. At this point I cannot choose between ka-50 Vs hind P.. I need to reach the same level with the hind first
Another thin about the autopilot ... it is one of the components that will break when hit by the enemy. So if you are not able to pilot the Hind without the autopilot, you will get screwed right there if that system break.
really learn a lot from this tips always crash when trying to land. but now i know how to go slow and puling back the stick .. 5 meter per second thanks
Great video! Really helps with a lot of issues I had when I was trying to learn this, still do sometimes! The forward blade stall was a great tip! The only problem is whenever I’ve had it happen I’m usually too close to the ground to do all that and not hit the ground. Still it’s worth a try since doing nothing is a sure bet your gonna crash! Anyway great video! Thank you for taking the time to do all this and then share your knowledge! I know making videos is a tedious process & time consuming! So thank you ! Look forward to watching More!🤙
When taking off, you need to hold the wheel brake, and then release it.In your flight, a warning is lit on the left scoreboard that the wheels are braked.
If I were to add one more tip. Turn off your yaw AP when not in transit. Whenever manuvering. Taking off landing ect. Turn it off so you are not fighting the yaw. Whenever you trim with that channel on the AP will try and maintainin last trimmed heading. This can cause allot of problems when landing or manuvering precisely.
It might be worth checking out the new pedal microswitch modeling options, because the microswitches are supposed to temp disengage the yaw channel while using the pedals ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P8Y_u7Ut7Cg.html
In summary follow the checklist, increase cyclic slowly while countering effects for a smooth hover. Don't overspeed and break the heli. Watch for VRS. Constantly retrim
this video is very nicely done and nicely explained, I don't have this helicopter and I don't plan to have it because I already have a ka-50-III, which is the term for this one, only that real pilots don't use it properly and virtual ones too, it would be nice to make a video for ka-50 if you have it 😁😁🤗🤗🍻🍻
I have spent a few hours so far just flying this thing around. Sadly I can't the descent control right, but if I learn to stick with the 5 number on the gauge I may have a chance, but I still find it tricky to come in and do a proper slow down and get to a hover in a stable fashion.
Always keep an eye on your Vertical velocity bgauge and if below about 50 knots NEVER go below 300 IMO. 500 is pushing it too much. High speed isn't so bad as you are
Hey X-Check, just stumbled across your channel thanks to RU-vid's weird algorithm, good stuff. I've gotta weird question, what is your nationality? Because your English is very good!
One thing you forgot to do is turn off the parking brake. Maybe tip 11. Although I disagree with tip 4. Those are there for a reason. That's kind of like saying if you want to learn to drive, you absolutely ought to turn off traction control and disable the ABS. A professional might want to, as it might give you an extra degree of control. But you absolutely shouldn't when you're new.
Thanks for the comment. I don't intended it to sound as if you must do it, it is only a tip that in my case, worked wonders. After taking off and landing a couple of times without augmentations, my understanding of the systems increased substantially and my tos and landings with them on improved immensely. And that may also be the case for many other people. That is why I think it is a good tip! My father made me learn to drive with a manual gearbox. Did I cry while trying to start the car on a steep hill knowing I could use a vehicle with an automatic transmission? Yes. Was it necessary? No. Did it improve my understanding of the vehicle and my driving abilities? Yes. Am I grateful I learned on a standard? Oh very much yes so. Would I suggest others do the same? Oh yes.
First thing i did when driving a fast car was to disable all electronics, never regretted it lol, you feel the car a lot more, and learn about it, and later one you will predict when the electronics will kick in and know why its lets say abs/locking the right front wheel in that corner xD
@@StoneCoolds You will also spin out and wrap yourself around a tree if you try this in a powerful rear-wheel-drive car. Get some training before you turn off those stability systems; they’re there for a reason; this is one of those things you can’t learn by failing, because failing will end with a hospital trip and angry insurance companies. If you’re driving a fast rear-wheel-drive car for the very first time, you almost definitely do not know how to counter oversteer. Gotta get some training before you turn off those systems!
@@99domini99 i mean, it wasnt that powerfull of a car but was a 530hp V8, enough to spin the wheels at 75mph xD But i think it also comes to how natural you are with "feeling" and reacting, but i would agree for 90% of people, electronics on from day one to the end lol, not many people have that slow motion sensation while under stress
Hello mate, great tips I started learning the Hinds after a year of purchasing it, I've got the same hotas as you, but looking for some rudder pedals, can you recomend any? Thanks, keep up the good work
Only problem how to use weapons when pilot without auto pilot it must be impossible, even the cannon in pilot seat didnt have sights. This was a fun chopper in Operation Flashpoint cold war crisis!
Another point- in your tip 1, you only turned on the left inverter. You need to turn both on or your automatic gunsights won’t boot properly and will give false readings
Another thing with the auto pilot for rudder is that it will go crazy and pull full left or right for no reason and keep it there until reset And one thing that i don't know if its a glitch or pilot error, is the trim, the huey i just trim it and it will fly perfectly This chopper, some times it trims, sometimes it doesnt, most of the times it will do the opposite, like you have it perfectly balance going foward, press trim, and it will pitch up or pitch dow or roll for no reason Any suggestion abouts that ? Or its just a glitch ?
I don't get how people fly with non-default trimming. You have to quickly return the stick to center position after each trim. With default trimming you just fly. 60 km/h is the transition speed. If you're slowing down, then you will have to increase collective to compensate for the loss of lift. If you're speeding up, you'll experience a lot more lift beyond 60 km/h, so you will want to ease on collective. When you're slowing down, watch your variometer very closely to not drop below -3 m/s and increase collective proportionally to the loss of lift, making sure the needle stays at -3 m/s max. You will also experience ground effect at about slightly less than 20 meters to the ground. Ground effect means more more lift, so when close to 20 meters you'll want to decrease collective to not bounce back up.
Hallo thank you for video is nice to see if you can get helped from beginning. I really struggling with MI24. Sometimes i fly and aircraft from no reason go Down and crush. Some time aircraft go only front and stop. Do you think rudders is very important? I don't have rudders yet and I planing to buy. Is my first helicopter so this look like I need then. With plane for example F15 i really dont need it. Also how I can regulate speeding? Is any specific button? Thank you in advance I know maybe I have really silly question but I is hard to control.
Great video. My problem is figuring out how to set up my Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog Throttle. I think my stick is ok and my thrustmasterTPR rudder peddles but I just can't figure out my throttle settings for the HIND. I'm 60+ and disabled, any help would be great, like a video showing how to set up the HIND settings.
Linear no curves anywhere for the hind and mi8 personally. I'm using a vkb nxt gx premium stick and thrust master tcws throttle. Perfectly fine. The only whirlybird I run agresive colectiv and ciclic curves on is the gazelle as that thing will do 4 barrel rolls before you can get the stick back to center
Unfortunately I found this video just a month after I had to figure out all of these issues myself. Would've saved my friend who wanted to copilot a massive headache back then
I manage to fix it some times by sycking to rockets and goinf for a run with them, then going back to atgms, doesn't always work, bur iw ould say it works 60% of the time
I strongly recommend to disregard his number 4. You don't learn how a helicopter "works" by deactivating augmentation systems. Again in number 6, deactivating the AP channels is actually preventing you to do effective trimming. Leave those channels on until you know your stuff well, and only if you understand how these channels and the trimming work, experiment with selectively switching them off and learn in which situations this might be appropriate and in fact helpful.
In terms of trimming, should it be flown like the ka50? Where the trimmer is held down until youre flying and heading the way you want and thereafter let go of the trimmer?
@@rickardrisberg6999 It really depends on your current mode. If you are just navigating across the landscape, I'd say yes. The main difference to the KA-50 seems to be the missing director mode, which basically keeps the trim button pressed while flying attack runs or evasive maneuvers.
I disagree with you but respect your opinion. It was crucial for my learning process to do some take offs and landing with no augmentations, after that, I got a much better idea on how the augmentations were working and vastly improved my flying. It may not work for all, I agree, but it did wonders to me.
@@rickardrisberg6999 You can do either, (tap or hold) what ever you feel more comfortable with, but with central posistion trimer the trim posistion is only set when you release the trim button. If you are holding it down IMHO you are just increasing your work load. Trim for level flight i.e speed yuo wish to fly at and then only trim if you need to, you can fly around very esily with out much re trimming.
In my opinion it's better to record with trackIR+monitor. Most people don't have VR and it's not because they can't afford it... Please don't use VR footage for youtube tutorials and such.
