Thank you so much, I'm doing a big turbo build on my alh and the last puzzle was going to be an 11mm pump I really didn't want to buy the timing tool kit, this saves about 300 bucks CDN and alot of time lol. Il calibrate the pump in VCDS after thanks for the info!
I woud be verry verry careful assembling the pump element to the head with some thick oil to prevent the surfaces from scraching one another- my man here clunking the parts like it's nothing. Also never ever disasemble the head and pump element on the car because it sits sideways and there are numerous small bits and bobs that can fall out and never be put together properly. Aways disasemble and assemble the pump off the car where it can be put upright on a vice and there is no way parts falling off and getting lost or dirty.
Finally, somebody is doing a video I’ve been looking for. I have. 10.M And I was thinking do I have to replace the whole pump or just part of it. Now I know thank you. Thank you so much. You made my week. Do I have to do any programming after?
I have 2 10m pumps. And one 11m. But the one that is on the 2000 Jetta is a 10.m so I just change the part you are showing in the video and I’m all good to go?
Time to see if I can toss together a fully mechanical pump now with this information. Have some 1.6 and 1.9 TD pumps, and have an AHU TDI and an ALH in my car.
@@fastinradfordable Once you factor the cost of shipping one all the way here to Canada the cost isn't so close lol. If I wanted 12mm I could get one from a 4BT Cummins but I want to have good high RPM power still.
Are you running the AHU engine in your car? I would be curious if using the ALH 11mm pump head would fit and work well on the AHU pump bddy. Let me know if you have any info on this or if you try it.
@@davidparker9676 ALH injection pumps are almost a direct swap on AHU/1Z engines, just need to enlarge the hole in the injection pump bracket and use the ALH timing belt pulley.
You say this will not effect timing but the 11mm will displace more fuel (everything else being the same). So won't that reach the pop pressure of the injectors in a shorter duration vs the 10mm... thus giving you some advance?
In my region, exactly the same engine has 2 different plunger, the old one has 12 mm vs the new one has 11 mm. 12 mm is 10 degrees BTDC and 11 mm is 12 degrees BTDC. I assume 2 degrees difference in injection timing probably has something to do with the size. But it’s just my guess, I’m not a mechanic
Was wondering but this confirms what I thought was the difference in the different pumps. I have numerous pumps to play with...still have one apart & covered in rags for the last several months on a bench that is due to be put back together still after a cleaning. I'd be interested to know what size pump is the most economical (if known) on a 1.6 TD IDI now in my 1980 VW p/u. Did a swap from a Mk2 (IP didn't have the mushroom assy on top either) thinking I would get improved mpgs but ended up dropping from mid-high 40s to low 40s & into the mid-high 30s if not careful w/ the pedal. Do like the extra pep but miss the mileage. Exhaust is 2-1/4in all the way back too. Pointing out the number marks on the block will be handy in ID'ing what is currently on the TD.
This side can wear out if debris is in the IP, otherwise it should be fine. These parts are constantly lubricated by the diesel fuel. The main way they get damaged is when the fuel has water or dirt/metal shavings in it.
@@motorbros7078you did this with the pump still on the car and not on a bench ? I was under the impression internal parts would fall out of place if that head was removed while it was laying sideways on the car.
