12 Valve Cummins Talk. Round 2 

The reason you’re so trustworthy is the fact that you will explain what you used to think and what you think now. That’s why I watch and I don’t even own a 12 valve. Thanks for the great content.

Awesome stuff . In my 12v days I’ve done fair share of head gaskets. And composite head gaskets do compress, ARP studs don’t compress with them like a stock head bolt does.A stock head bolt is like a rubber band compared to ARP stud. I would use valve adjustment to identify the head and gasket have compressed because valve adjustment will be tight at that point you back off one at a time each head nut on the stud and do a re-torque on standard studs I started out at 125 would add 5lbs each retorque . I would usually end up with two retorques 135. Have been 1350 hp to rear tires and two seasons with standard ARP studs . And yes your buddy with his common rail didn’t have to do a retorque because he had a mls gasket . If this one person out from having to redo there head gasket it was worth this long ass post.

My 1996 smokes alot at idle, sitting at a light there is a white/grey smokey diesel haze, I can sometimes see it blowing past the passenger side window if the wind is in the right direction. Then when I step on it to go, there is blue haze mixed with the white haze until I'm around 1500rpm and then it mostly goes away. Engine was just rebuilt at a diesel shop 5000km ago, new pistons and gapless rings, absolutely zero blow by. It did this exact same thing before the rebuild. After about 1500km the oil gets very diesely, where clouds of diesel fog come out the vent tube that runs down past the starter.

Seems like you are teaching me, but the more I learn the more cautious I get. I am 70 and have been putting off trying to resurrect my 94 W2500 / NV 4500 / 3.54 gears with less than 200,000 miles. 300 to 400 horsepower would be more than enough. The truck has been setting up for 10 years due to two steering box failures and two scary experiences. At some point I would like to plan my project based on your suggestions.

Hell Yea!!!!!! Absolutely Love the 12v and P pump tech, Timing, rack travel, DVs!!!!! Some very helpful stuff for the Mechanical Mafia!!!!!! Keep it up and will be waiting for next weeks video!!

Is this also why cummins guys need 1000 hp worth of turbo to make 500 hp

I would like to see how a p pump 24v makes power vs a 12v and the difference in vp44 injectors vs the p pump injectors

I must say being into the 12v from the late 90s to now I enjoy listening to this. The forum peak before Facebook was a much better data knowledge base. I hope to chat on phone soon. Good vid.

I need to see about a custom nozzle to get my 14mm ve cleaned up and making power for this decade.

Commenting for support!

Keep the 12V knowledge coming!!! Thank you!

This is an awesome video guys! Thanks for putting it out there!

Excellent content guys! What a incredible wealth of knowledge. Much of it I don't understand yet, but keep it coming.

Now I just want to try your 12v pilot hole tech. I have it on my 24v and love it. I already couldn't believe how much cleaner my 12v was going from 5x20 to your stage 4, and it made more power to boot.

12valve content ftw

What about a wire brush for removing gasket material?

I am sticking with the VE pump. Looking for 400-450hp. I had my pump max fueled to 250-260cc's by The Hungry Diesel. I will be running 18lbs of fuel pressure from an in tank Carter electric pump. I bought your Stage III nozzles. Will this be enough fuel from the IP to take advantage of the III's? How much timing do I add?

I'm currently in a 12 valve build, P pump 215 maxed out 19 ° of timing. Goal is to make 700hp on a very street friendly, tow friendly truck. What you guys just said about advancing the timing scares me! What can I do to make the power and keep everything alive? Should I let go of some power to keep timing less advanced? Any input would be great, thanks.

Are y’all doing the new pilot holes on 24v VP injectors??