After being inspired by a chrisfix youtube video, and the coincidence of repairable leaking tire within reach, I decided to take matters into my own hands while also showing you the steps I took to insure a flawless installation
Incorrect way to jack up a Model S/X. Viewers, consult the Tesla manual for the correct location for the jack points, and proper way to jack up the car.
DO NOT DO THIS. This car has been jacked up with a trolley jack where there is no proper jack point. The appropriate jack point is near where the axle stand is (there are 4 such jack points). That car weighs over 2 tonnes. The base of the car is a battery pack, the last thing you want to do is jack up the car under the battery, this could be dangerous and expensive. If you follow this guide and destroy your battery pack you might consider suing this guy. One other thing, some Tesla's have the optional height adjustable gas suspension in which case you need to put the car in jack mode before you do any jacking up of the car.
Why would you remove the wheel to Plug a front tire when you can just turn the wheel to access it? Lifting if from the battery not the best idea either.
best repair uses patch from inside. If you read the warnings on those plugs they say they are only for emergency/temporary use and not DOT approved. I would never use one on a performance car. That said. I have used them several times on my beaters and never had an issue for the rest of the life of the tire assuming you have a decent branded/steel belted tire
I reckon applying the glue and the plug while there is still pressure in the tyre just ensures all the glue is blasted away from where it does the most good. Better to deflate the tyre. Also it should be completely dry, water interferes with adhesive curing
some times you can plug a tire while it is on the car at my shop we use and patch with a plug attached to it and it requires the removel of the tire from the rim
Sorry, but placing the jack like this deforms the side rails of the battery frame. There is no steel where you guys placed it, just aluminum that is not designed to support the weight of the vehicle. This will probably need to be repaired, and could potentially cause problems when the pack needs to be dropped. An that it will once the front camber arms needs replacement, the main power switch serviced or any warranty work on the battery. Correct jack points are closer to the wheels, and are easy to see.
hi I work in a large tire shop as a tire tech . just some things I wanted to point out always wear gloves and eye protection when removing a nail or screw from a tire also chock the rear wheels when jacking up the front . you corrected it already but like you said break loose the lug nuts while it is on the ground. i have a 3/4 drive 20 and 40 inch breaker bar at my shop for when the lug nuts are on way to tight. a 1/2 dr wont do it some times. the longer and fater the bar the better
very good job the only things i would change is some safety stuff wear gloves eye wear and remove nail/screw with pliers . never let it fly out like that it could hit you or someone else. or at the shop if it is a screw i use my cordless impact driver with a phillips bit to back it out
I am not sure if that is the correct jack point! I want to paint my break calibers but I am told that you can lift the car only from the four designated jack points.
ylli hysenlika yes this kid unfortunately risked braking the car by lifting this is the wrong jack points there’s 4 little black pads on each of the assembly’s and depending on the model you need to put in jack mode and turn off auto leveling
That's pretty badass of you. Very few people could do what you just did, and certainly not any 15 year-old I've met in the last decade. A tip for when you're breaking loose the lug nuts: Place the breaker bar parallel to the ground, and pull up on it. Pushing down, you're limited to your body weight, but your leg muscles can lift a lot more than your body weight.
Good video. I have been meaning to run through this at home (prior to doing it in anger). It would worry me to death jacking a Tesla anywhere other than one of the 4 jacking points (where the axle stands went). Are there metal bars running down teach side of the car that can withstand the weight? I thought the wheelnut torque was 129 lb/ft? But very useful video.
Yes, metal bars run front to rear and can support the weight of the vehicle, in the front or rear according the Tesla owners manual. At the time I was unaware of the torque rating, so I just torqued it to 100 since that's what most cars recommend. Thanks!
americanchallenger you might want to re-read the Manual. Mine says the 4 jacking points are the only approved jacking points and lifting the car at any other points voids the warranty. But common sense prevailed and it encouraged me to do a dry run, and I'm glad I did.
Well this helps when your stuck in the middle of the road when the nearest Tesla shop is 50 miles away and no other tire shop will want to touch it because it’s a Tesla. Cudos, better than some of these Grown Sissy’s who buy these cars and don’t have a damn plan when their car breaks down
Glycol coolant is not corrosive, but toxic. So it a lot of things. The 18650 is a industry standard cell size that you will find in most laptop batteries.
Those plugs are not good enough, I heard they were mot legal. the best thing is the plugpatch combo, but I realized you may have special tires with sound observing foam lining inside tire
Honestly good for you for wanting to learn this kind of stuff... most kids today dont want anything to do with fixing cars and think its menial. Only suggestion is, dont think this is a permanent fix, get it professionally patched from the inside
You got a head on your shoulders. I would say try taking a class or two at a local community college or if you have a program at school do it so you can learn from the right teachers. I loved being hands on also... and i learned from alot of my mistakes lol. You gotta screw up, cause thats the only way you learn. Just do it in a controlled environment if you can lol.
americanchallenger otherwise the auto leveling would have the car flopping everywhere. Btw-most informative and relevant video all week. I had two flats last week
i'm not copying, I'm just showing how one can perform what they learned in one of his videos, and apply it to real life. I clarified this in the description.
Using a string plug is not a proper repair you need to pull the tyre off the rim and patch it from this inside, in Australia I believe it's actually illegal to drive a car with a string plug in the tyre
First of all, he should have loosen the nuts a bit before lifting the car at the jack point and he could have position the jack stand only as support near the jack lift; to lessen the work effort. He should wear eye protection, some gloves, use a pair of big pliers and a long flat head driver for leverage. It will also be best to put wheel chocks before raising the vehicle, this prevents the vehicle from moving/sliding and toppling off the jack stand or lift. The proper way of removing any stuck object, nail or screw is to deflate the tire, don't risk getting hit by the object in the face or eyes; air is free and having no injury is priceless. Same applies when cleaning the puncture hole, putting rubber glue and rubber plugs, that way you have an unobstructed hole free from any forced and condensed/wet air; this assures you of a very tight seal/contact with the tire material. Lastly, there is no need to remove the center wheel cap and kicking the wheel to place, taking off the cap will do nothing for this type of wheel and kicking the wheel will just damage the paint and coating of the wheel. I am no tire mechanic, but I use good safety measure and common sense. I was also taught by my father (a MD by profession) at a young age (around 10) and safety comes first then sound procedure. By the way, I live in the tropics where weather is brutal and heavy rainfall (normal) all year round. Anyhow, good job. You were able to replace a modern wheel at 15. Some do not even know how at 40. ;)
see the way it shot out you were lucky it did not hit you or some one else in the eye. it could have shot across the street . with pliers you would be holding on to it as it comes out. i am also a retired emt from nyc-ems I had 35 years on the job
I thought that kid was going to steal the car. He looked too suspicious. I was waiting for him to either 1. Steal it. 2. Smash it the way he was holding that bar. Joking but not really. JT - GJ.
does he not know your NOT suposed to jack a Tesla from the side like that and it has special jack pad locations so you don't mess up the $40k battery cell?
its better to document yourself before doing something that may lead to injuries, It is also better to do so if you're going to post a video about it so you dont make a fool of yourself.
Whoa... Like everyone has said, you should read the manual first. Don't follow these instructions ! By The Way... forcing an object out of a punctured tire without covering it, even with a rag, is like shooting a BB gun in a random direction.
Please do not follow this kids advice on how to use a jack on your Tesla. There are 4 jacking points on the car. You can clearly see the front one at 1:55 in the video. It's the rubber square with three holes in it. You can also see the damage the kid has done to the battery with the stand and jack earlier. But if you want to void your warranty - please go ahead.
Thanks for your comment. Tesla actually makes it impossible for DIYers to be safe. The jacking points they give are very limited. The Hydraulic jack was in the correct place, but it is very important for me to have a jack stand supporting the car since hydraulic jacks can fail.
Hay you need some one to show how to UNDUE lug nuts you have feet DO not tug that is unless you wish to get Real problems apply B Bar and step on its safer and better for you other WIZES call for help
