184 - Coves on the Tablesaw & the Parallelogram Cove Jig

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Many people are surprised when they find out they can make incredibly beautiful (and large) coves moldings on the tablesaw. I know I was! In this episode, I'll give you a rundown on the process for creating both symmetrical and asymmetrical coves. I'll show you several ways to set up for this operation, but my favorite involves the use of a parallelogram jig that was inspired by a Fine Woodworking Article by Stuart Sabol (subscription required). His jig is primarily for setup only, so I figured why not make a jig that would also double as a fence system.
Once you have your coves cut, you'll need to clean them up. Unfortunately the blade leaves a fairly rough surface. So I'll show you a few good ways to smooth the surface to perfection.
And I didn't mention it in the video, but the best blade for this type of operation would be one with a square tooth grind. That should leave you with the cleanest surface. My 40 tooth Forrest Woodworker II did a pretty decent job without any square teeth. And here is the link for the program cove calculation program over at FineWoodworking.com: Cove Angle Calculator www.finewoodworking.com/pages/...
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Опубликовано:

10 окт 2012

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Комментарии : 101

@jimvh4160 6 месяцев назад

Thank you - you always explain processes so well. I used this with good success.

@garyfairbrother5532 4 года назад

Always wanted to try the coving process and now at, 76, I finally have a project that requires it. Thanks for the straight forward and easy tutorial. Takes all the mystery and most of the danger out of it.

@davidwalton1539 5 лет назад

Possibly the best woodworking video on RU-vid! Thanks!

@Masterof1ne 10 лет назад

I was just wondering. I inherited a workshop with a lot of tools and i am trying to learn how to use them. You and Steve Ramsey have been a ton of help! Thanks and keep up these great videos!

@woodwhisperer 11 лет назад

Yes indeed. Feel like we can really get on with our lives now. Quite a relief!

@chipshot442 6 лет назад

Fantastic demonstration. I love the jig you made for this process. Love your channel and will continue to watch. Thanks again, Al from Maryland

@deleetmeeh 11 лет назад

At first I didn't think the a-symmetrical was going to look good being a symmetrical guy. I always have to figure things out on the job and this video really helped show me a whole dimension with the table saw I haven't discovered yet. One of those outside the box ideas for sure. Most people just think in terms of straight lines with table saw. Thanks for the great video Marc.

@woodwhisperer 11 лет назад

One thing you might consider doing is dovetailing the joints first. You can even do this technique on the fully assembled box. That way you won't have to worry about joinery after the coves are cut. It'll take some practice runs and planning but it can certainly be done.

@MrMaacin05 2 года назад

I am making a jewelry box for a fundraiser and am doing mitered corners with sliding dovetail splines. If it was all assembled do you think I would blow out the miters? Fully assembled sounds safer and more convenient

@NMranchhand Год назад

Quite a good coverage of the topic, thanks.

@justplainducky 9 лет назад

great video, I'm trying to make some fancy handrails and this is the answer I've been looking for, thanks

@sawdustjohnpa 11 лет назад

great vid. been doing raised panels on the table saw for years. gonna have to make up one of these jigs for moulding tho. i like the looks and function of it and alot safer than one fence.

@alexwen2786 9 лет назад

Thanks for sharing your insight and details on this process. I screwed two planks into my table saw sled, clamped the sled down and began my passes. Perfect semi-circles for my project! (I used this "step" for my dividers and completed my version of Steve Ramsey updated utensil tray) Again, thank you!

@n8guy 11 лет назад

Thanks for the awesome video! I really want to try this. But as you said, the limit is my creativity. :) One idea for cutting 8/4 with that jig (without the bridge interfering) would be to get your angles and width and all of that set, clamp the main rails to the table saw, and then just unscrew the knobs and remove the bridge altogether. Thanks for the awesome vids!

@felixreali7101 4 года назад

really amazing technique. and very well explained too. thanks so much

@jimray1111 10 лет назад

Heres a possible sanding solution: Place a piece of scrap at the end of the work piece so you can draw the exact curvature of the work piece. Cut multiple pieces out on the band saw at the same time so they all have the same curvature. Sand these down to get them as close as possible to the exact curve of the work piece but it doesnt have to be perfect, just close. Now attach these pieces together so as to create a form for your sandpaper. Attach a piece of foam to the sanding side of the block (any kind of soft flexible foam will do) you just made using spray adhesive ( or something like that ). Wrap on the appropriate type of sandpaper for the job and go at it. The foam will offset any flaws in your sanding block giving you that flexibility from not being perfect on the band saw. There are many ways to adapt this method or change it to your liking, but you get the idea.

@fouroakfarm 11 лет назад

Never thought to use a table saw as a shaper. Thanks for the tip!

@jbates2454 11 лет назад

Congrats on selling the old house! I know that must be a big weight lifted off your back. Thanks for the video Sir!

@Ticky66MN 11 лет назад

Another great video Marc. Thank you very much!

@DreamingTree-vo9lj 8 лет назад

Wife: Honey, why are all my clothes on the floor in the closet. Me: Feel how smooth this cove is!

@browntroutfisherman 11 лет назад

Brilliant, just what I was looking for - perfect.

@philipbreau1246 3 года назад

I like the parallelogram. I cut coves before using only one straight piece clamped to the table, but only incrementing a tiny bit each pass. Your way is safer. Thank you

@woodworkchannel3353 7 лет назад

I will make one off those jigs but one thing i think i will do is on the loong pieces ( front and back fence) i will make a 1/4" groove in the middle to take T nuts /bolt to be able just attach the jig to table t slots and not needing to use clamps , if that will work

@johannpreiss5332 11 лет назад

Excelent video- very clearly explained

@sethwarner2540 8 лет назад

One of the few times I'v tried this , I used a noodle (pool toy) which was good for symetrical shapes.

@gmpsandw 5 лет назад

I was going to make the same comment, pool noodles are the best for contour sanding.

@kevinallen4069 4 года назад

Here’s a thought , if the knobs were reversed so the jig could be turned over, the jig “could” potentially be more secure while cutting the cove. Great video!!!

@lewisyaxley 8 лет назад

Hey Marc that jig looks like it would work as the exact dado jig.

@sentiny 11 лет назад

cool idea, well done

@MrDancesilly 11 лет назад

yeay! free video! thanks mark!

@naturelovertx 11 лет назад

I did this on a faux log bed I built for my wife. The footboard was two 6" horizontal logs sawn in half attached to a vertical 12" log for the leg. I had to cove the end grain of the smaller logs to mate with the posts. I started by mitering to remove most of the material. Then I build a sled to support the 50" or so long board in the air and to keep the mitered end grain flat against the table saw top. One hand in the air holding the log, other hand operating the sled. Got to be a better way.

@robertgordon7942 11 лет назад

Marc, I'm kinda new to woodworking & like your videos. w/o any help, I made a cove jig that has some properties like yours. I failed to make it into a parallelogram (mine is simply two different fences) & I see that as an easy change. W/ that being said, I found it difficult to clamp it at times & made slots in each that have Tbolts that run in the slots on my table saw. It did allow me to minimize the clamping. Food for thought. Thanks for the ideas. Rob

@mjb12141963 4 года назад

I made a night stand out of cherry back in junior high and the shop teacher did this to the feet. It went to a pawnshop to pay some bills years ago so now I want to build a set I can keep now that I am older and that money grubbing, I digress. I have wanted to learn how to do this and now I have an idea how to do it safely.

@trinif 11 лет назад

Excellent video.

@theredneckwoodsmith4120 6 лет назад

When I build mine I think I'll fit dowels in the extra height spacers and keep them on the fence rail until I need them.

@woodwhisperer 10 лет назад

I think turning the saw off is the "proper" way to do it, in terms of absolute safety. But to be honest, I frequently make small adjustments while the blade is moving. Probably shouldn't do it as much as I do.

@jimmymagwilang8701 3 года назад

Hi Wood Whisperer, Thank you for sharing your wonderful idea regarding crown molding. I'm from the Philippines and currently working in Saudi Arabia. I'm going home for good this coming December and continue the finishes of my house. My question is how are you going to get the angle of crown molding that is attach on the ceiling and on the wall.

@havenisse2009 10 лет назад

Same jig can be used on a router to make grooves. I should build one for my 10 sq ft shop.

@woodwhisperer 11 лет назад

A flat ground blade is best. Most ripping blades will suffice. And you can certainly use purpleheart wherever you want in the piece. Depends on the design and the look you're going for.

@daleleibfried8648 11 лет назад

great videos. i do think its worth mentioning that if you do use a single fence that it goes behind the blade (closer to operator), so if anything the blade is pushing the material into the fence. a few years back i was set up in reverse and cut my middle finger off as the peice left the saw and my hand came down in place of it.

@briantaylor9266 Год назад

I guess I'm a bit late to the game, but I have exactly the same observation. If using a single fence, it should be set such that the blade tends to push the work piece into the fence. If in doubt where that should be, use 2 fences like Mark does - definitely the safer way.

@colbysheridan 11 лет назад

Thanks for another great video, Marc. I have some 6" cove crown molding to make, and I'm wondering if it would be easier to remove the bulk of the cove with a dado blade in a conventional fashion, first. You know - deepest at the apex of the cove, drop down a little and make a pass flanking the middle channel on the left and right, and repeat, working my way out. Then use the parallelogram jig to cut the coves like you show above. Make sense, or am I thinking too much about it? Thanks again.

@Alehaky 11 лет назад

Хорошая Столярка!

@woodwhisperer 11 лет назад

This is an old video from before the wall went in. And I can't give you a shop tour because someone else owns that house now. :)

@ArtsCraftsJoe 8 лет назад

Great tips. This must be cheaper than buying molding.

@2102jeffrey 4 года назад

Top marks!

@hawkdaddy64 8 лет назад

My question is this: when you find the length and the apex and then you try to offset the cove by say 1/2 inch. Can you just measure from the center to the top of the cove offset to get the angle required to set the tilt of the blade?

@KH4438 11 лет назад

Great video. Thanks!!!!!!!

@NinoRansenberg 11 лет назад

Thanks Mark.

@tzkelley 11 лет назад

There's no way you're old enough to recall the Laugh-In reference on your T-shirt!

@Voxnulla 11 лет назад

For higher pieces, why not clamp down both rails and simply remove the bridge pieces?

@MonsterArmy23 9 лет назад

that is an amazing miter gauge

@danielrecord1919 8 лет назад

Great! 16:24 Hey those headphones protectors are wireless? where did you get them? Thanks!

@russellgreer8659 5 лет назад

Great video. I know it’s been a while since you put this out. Not sure how thick your wood is but the piece I’m trying to do is three-quarter inch a little less. Can’t raise the blade enough to get the width I need what do you do with thinner stock to get the width ?

@philipbreau1246 3 года назад

Philip Breau Go across the blade at 90 degrees. If the cove is still not wide enough, you can bevel the blade. It won't create an offset cove because you're going across at 90. Only combination angles will yield offset coves. One more way is use larger diameter blade if you have access to a machine that has one. 1 second ago

@FelixTheAnimator 6 лет назад

I think I"m just gonna buy the Rockler cove jig. I might need a whole house worth of cove, but I don't have a whole shop at my disposal.

@BandL-zw7pv Год назад

I need to make a 1/2" deep grove across a 3' 2x4. It is to allow a 4" vent pipe pass under it in a limited space. Any thoughts?

@donovanb4739 4 года назад

The wood whisperer, more like Peter puffer lol

@ericpattersonk8eep953 3 года назад

An old timer told me he uses glass for curved things like the seat of a chair. Would that work to smooth this out?

@tapwood1 10 лет назад

Hi I just that thought this was a great informative video I have made coves before bit my method was a bit more hit and miss. I'm not sure how stupid this suggestion sounds but if you are only working with smaller material would it be practical to use a long sanding drum with soft outer fitted into a chuck on the headstock of your lathe secure the other end with the tail stock and sand the cove out at low speed on the lathe.

@Bozo8600 2 года назад

Would it be possible to safely make rosette block molding using a variation of this process?

@starvingpoet81 11 лет назад

Even though I've seen this before, I still watch this video and all I can see are the clamps in the back.

@joshuacrowe2752 6 лет назад

Instead of placing spacers in the jig for thicker stock, why not flip the jig upside down? Wouldn't that work just as well?

@mwoodturner54 2 года назад

If I want a tighter radius can I use a 6" dado blade with a 1/4 "setting?

@fakeprofiles5003 3 года назад

thank you

@jamesspies4063 2 года назад

What is the best table saw blade for a cove cut? I presume it is a crosscut blade, but is there a specific type that is best?

@technicahmett 9 лет назад

Good method...

@Masterof1ne 10 лет назад

Is it okay to raise the blade while the saw is on? I always turn my saw off.

@jesterraj 8 лет назад

how did you find the center of the apex?

@cameronharder3439 Год назад

What is the name of the adjustable sander (that takes the shape of the groove) in your video?

@sethwarner2540 8 лет назад

Oh, also, what if you don;t have an INCRA mitre guage? just go 30 deg. then back off just an "unta" ? Plus, My CRAFTSMAN table saw has a piece of TIN for a bevel indicator; you can bend it back-an-forth. Maybe set blade to 90 deg., set tin arrow, then lay the blade over to desired bevel? Thanks, good idea, W.W. !!

@woodwhisperer 11 лет назад

If the rails are long enough and you don't have an outfeed table, you can certainly do that. With my setup, it wouldn't work.

@Gidjoiner 11 лет назад

Maybe you could just make it longer then turn the parallel jig over so the knobs are underneath ?

@pillitterin 11 лет назад

Wouldn't it be easier to turn the parallelogram jig upside down and removing the support blocks? That way there would be no restriction on the height of the material you are using, and you could put one of the connecting rails right up against the top of the table saw, which i think would make setting up the jig a little quicker? Those are just my idea's and I would greatly appreciate your opinion on if you think they would improve on the design our not.

@n8guy 11 лет назад

If you want symmetry, you could do 2 asymmetrical pieces, flip one around, butt them up against each other, and boom, symmetry. ;)

@bradroon5538 3 года назад

I would put on my fence, set my angle gauge, and gently line my parallelogram fence off of that, over the blade.

@bradroon5538 3 года назад

I'm also thinking I'd make a parallelogram jig long enough to go well beyond both edges of the tablesaw so I could tighten from below. That would let you put long and thick boards through.

@catteyisaboar4241 10 лет назад

thank you for the video, it was interesting. I am surprised that you didn't cut slots down the center of each long rail and use those to attach them to the miter slots. I do think though that even if you personally choose to use the sliding power miter box incorrectly I don't think you should be showing novices the wrong way. I am amazed at how many 'teachers' on tv do this very same thing. I think they are trying to mimic using a table saw but not realizing that the blade on a table saw is below the work and the leading edge is pushing down into the table where as the power miter box and radial arm saws are above the work causing the leading edge of the blade to try to lift the wood off of the table. please check out the instructions that came with the saw, ty.

@ThickAsSeveralPlanks 9 лет назад

I'd suggest that you take up reading..... as in manufacturers manuals, because every manufacturers manual I've ever read says that you cut on the push stroke with a sliding compound mitre saw, but hey, the Internet is full of "experts" who know better......

@Olenbryce 8 лет назад

Anybody know where to get that little adjustable sanding block?

@salthead3 6 лет назад

It appears to be a VarioPro Profile Sanding Block. Also check out www.finewoodworking.com/2008/10/28/greatest-hits-custom-profile-sanding-blocks for a method to make a perfect fit sanding block.

@PP.EKOTECH 2 года назад

👍

@quint150 11 лет назад

You took the wall out. How about a shop tour.

@graemetalbot01 10 лет назад

Rather than a bridge that interferes with the workpiece why not flip the parallelogram jig over, you could then have the connecting short pieces flush with the height of your table saw. A slot in the connecting short sides of the jig could be cut so the locking bolts can be adjusted along the length of the short sides to account for varying width in each workpiece each short side could ride on the front & back edge of the table & the jig locked parallel again using the workpiece?

@mtaylor314 4 года назад

Updated link to the calculator www.finewoodworking.com/online-tools/cove-angle-calculator

@woodwhisperer 11 лет назад

Sure is. Along with diddly-whacker and doohickie. :)

@slopus 11 лет назад

if you die before me can i have your tools please? So so jealous!!!! going to cry myself too sleep now! look after that baby.

@gkhaled1 4 года назад

I miss the old introduction music

@jamesyoung694 6 лет назад

Why don't you just make the fence longer and put the bridges on the bottom side to allow thicker work pieces to pass through it.

@diminett6462 5 лет назад

Could you help me please with a cove cut problem my name is Diana

@cakeller98 6 лет назад

calculator link is broken. finewoodworking dot com /online-tools/cove-angle-calculator

@PKriger 6 лет назад

cakeller98 g

@cakeller98 6 лет назад

@airwolf61970 6 лет назад

Do you ever interact with your commentors?

@KaliBlaz 7 лет назад

eyeball the damn thing and push the wood.

@SooDan666 7 лет назад

tmnt in this vid

@TheDublin47 Год назад

I see that you only use say timber that was 12" long what would you do if you had a pice of timber that was 10 ft long i don't think your jig would be much good.