1850 Hydraulic Pump Replacement Part 1 

There's a couple of not too important details that were missed, but it seemed like there was a stretch where I kept getting interrupted.

Glad to help! Mine is a short cut version, it just depends on what is in there.

I’m in the same boat. Ours has been out for well over 20 years, and I need to yank it apart.

New pump, gaskets and seals were less than $600.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris through agco?

@@ThatOliverGuyChris through agco?

Thank you. It turned out to be a mostly lazy Sunday with family, so it was good. Hope yours goes well too.

It was pretty good, I did hurt my back on Saturday, but it was feeling better later in the day on Sunday. Thanks 👍

Thank you!

I had about 10 minutes of me talking about figuring out how to carefully set it on a table and rolling over while doing minimal damage to the paint, then it hit me. That's the only way to do it! My stand brackets needed a little encouragement to let a 3/4" bolt fit through, but it's nothing a drift pumch and a big hammer couldn't fix.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris If I remember correctly I seen it in the service manual. A picture of the hydraulic housing bolted the the official Oliver/Waukesha engine stand.

Glad you liked it!

There's more bearings in the next installment. Thanks for watching

I was planning on making this video this winter with the 1600 that is in for restoration. That will still happen, but nothing like a deadline to light a fire under a guy.

It sure makes me happy

My wife loves those.

😆 🤣 😂

I read that to the wife she called me a idiot 🙄 so I guess I'm in good company 😌

@@brianbenedix4942 Like wise😌

I'll also know who to blame if it doesn't work. LOL

That depends on on how much biodiesel is in it. That stuff might last a year. Straight #2, I think will last a few years and still be useable. Maybe 5 years? Blending in some new fuel and some fuel treatment would help.

It's feasable. You'd need to plumb the pressurized oil from the new pump into the system, preferably before the relief valve so it's protected and filtered.

I don't know of any right off, but they do pop up on facebook marketplace from time to time.

Next installment!

No, the hydraulic oil is separate from rest.

Good morning! Yeah, now the injection pump on the 1655 is leaking. At least that one made it aboout 8 years before I had to mess up paint.

Lol yeah after five or six years it hurts a little bit less. How are the crops looking? Hopefully you guys have gotten some rain, it's been incredibly dry here in northeastern ct guys are chopping already

Crops are looking good. We have gotten timely rains, which is fortunate, because overall we seem be drying up. Rivers and ponds are down, but the grass is green. My soybeans are just showing the first hints of turning, so I'll probably be able to start harvest around the end of the month.

It ended up better than I thought it would, but there may be an extra coin or two in the jar now.

The cap fell out the same day the pump seal blew. Not the best day ever. There was a vendor that had them at the summer show, but he was still setting up. Then I waited too long and he was gone on Sunday.

I was not. Now I need to go through and see where I said it. And thank you for your service!

Yup.

The restrictors are probably turned in a bit far and slowing the return oil. I cover that in this video. Jump ahead to 13 minutes for the part you need. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ue4KmLaJO_k.html Turning them out too far can make the loader bounce on the way down, so there can be some trial and error to find a spot that works best for you. That may also help with the 3 point jitter. Having the restrictors too slow causes back pressure that can make the 3 point want to lift. The brake probably needs a good cleaning and new return springs. I don't have a video on that yet.

Thank you for taking the time to reply with that information, it’s really appreciated. In an attempt to turn the restrictors one of the bolts broke so currently trying to figure out where buy a replacement

Google Maibach tractor, I'm sure they will have some used ones.

Unfortunately, they didn’t have any on the site for Oliver or White. Gonna give them a call. Sorry to be a pain but do you know any other sites or places to check out? Only owned this white for 6 months and have just got around to working on it. We primarily own old fords so Whites are new to us. Appreciate you a ton!

I don't. That is a job that really needs a factory shop manual to do it right.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris ok do u think It’d be worth doing on a tractor that needs everything redone? I bought it running for $600 but hydraulic pump don’t work and engine slobbers like crazy but sheet metal is good

If you do all of your own work, or it has some sentimental value, then it might be worth it. If it were mine, I'd part it out. A good pair of flat top fenders will bring close to what you paid for the whole tractor. Sell the rest of the sheet metal and you'd be making money. Another option would be to keep it as a parts machine, in case you find a better running 1850 that might need some sheet metal.

@@ThatOliverGuyChrisI hated to part it out cause where I’m at bigger Olivers are hard to find all there is here is the fiat built ones but I would do my own work. Does the shop manuals tell how to get most of the stuff out? And would I have to split it from the tub or can I leave it sitting on four wheels and do most of the work?

@@xade7863 The oliver manual shows it all. The I&T manual does not go into the detail that the factory one does. You wouldn't have to split the tractor, but if you have to take the pinion (bottom) shaft out, then you have to remove the rear axles, bull gears and differential to get that out. You could slide an axle out, pull the bull gear, then slide the axle back in to keep it on all 4 wheels.

Chances are it is leaking through the pto unit. If you get some fittings and cap off the 2 lines that go to the pto control valve, you can still use the tractor, but there won't be pto. If your oil stops going in the rear end, you've found your problem, pto piston seals. If you keep losing oil, then you're looking at a cracked or rusted pan. There is a chance the cooler circulation pump behind the hydraulic pump is leaking. I'd start with the pto, 9 times out 10 , that's where the leak is.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris Chris, Thank you very much for the reply. Its extremely helpful. I ordered all of the seals for the pto beside the control valve seals. I use the pto on a snowblower so i definitely need it fixed. I am guessing the seals get worn and when the pto runs it leaks into the rear case? One of my next projects is replacing the seals on the hydraulic control valves. Its slowly leaking out the end of the plastic yellow caps . Thanks again for the replies. Greatly appreciated.

Good question. They kept the hydraulics separate on this design right up to the last versions, the 2-88 and 2-110. They did start using a common sump with the 2-135 around 1976, but I can only guess as to why they didn't update the older designs.

If that's a serious question do a google search for "purple oliver tractor" and you will find several articles on why Oliver painted some purple (or pink if you wish). Chris was faithful to paint "Ophelia" this color as a tribute to some being that way from the factory. He's keeping history alive!!!

Purple is what Oliver called it. They had a promotion called "The Color Blind Plow". They were trying to sell plows to guys that had other colors of tractors, so they said it didn't matter if your tractor was green, blue, orange, or even purple, the Oliver plow was the best one to put behind it. They painted some 1850s this color for the promotion, took them to farm shows and dealers, then painted them back to green when they were done. Mine was definitely not one of those tractors, so I consider it a tribute tractor. Plus my daughter loves it.

I was trying to be gentle, but regular wrench turning Chris was also feeling the pressure of having it done in time for my daughter's senior photo session. Now that it is all back together, the touch up is going to be not that bad.

Typically the ones i have done are so shot I replace. I've done a couple where I replaced the shaft seal since everything else seemed good. A good pump should be able to open the relief valve at an idle. You can use a gauge to double check, but if you hear the relief opening at an idle to around 1,000 rpm, it's probably worth saving. Now if your remotes and 3 point don't work at an idle, that's a sign of a worn pump that can't create enough flow and pressure to open the priority valve. The more rpm it takes to get the remotes working, the worse off the pump is. If it's getting over 1,000 engine rpm to open that up and I was already tearing into it, I'd just plan on a new pump. My 1800 takes about 1500 to make the 3 point work once it is up to temperature. I'm thinking this 1850 pump can go in there with a new shaft seal.

Wow, now I’m wondering if the system has ever been set right. Had the 1550 since new, and the hydraulics have never worked at idle, except for the power steering. For anything else, you have to get over 1,000 RPM-3 point or remotes. I just thought that was the nature of the beast. If you contracted a remote, say let a disk or the loader down with some weight on it, at idle nothing happens. A little above idle, it would jump, like a valve opening and closing and the oil can’t return fast enough. Above say 1,200 to 1,400, everything works great. 1655 I had was the same way now that I think of it. 🤔

The relief valve may need shimmed. If the pressure is set low, the higher rpm would cause the relief to open and lower the pressure too much. Another thing is the restrictor in the remote may be turned in too far causing enough back pressure to open the relief when RPMs are high.

Did you leave the cab on? Those external valve units are easier to change the pump without all the 3 point stuff in the way.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris yes, I left the cab on. Had to remove the end of it is all, still a tight fit. Had to make some new fittings as the old pump had a steel line, replaced it with a hyd hose and it works great now.

Herman's had been replaced with a hydraulic line. When I put a new pump in him I was able to get an original steel line to put back in.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris the hose is working fine, no plans on changing it. Lol

I like it over there, once I remember it is there.

Me to we use it when we out load grain

It's all back together and the little bit of paint damage wasn't in area that sjowed up in her pictures. I think the photographer got some great ones

@@ThatOliverGuyChris My guess is that Ophelia was just the beastly lady in the background and Abby was the Beauty that dominated the photos. Hope you got a photo of her with a flannel shirt, bib overhauls, and a straw hat, just like a farmer would wear back in the day that Ophelia was born covered in green and all of his neighbors stopped in to see the new tractor. That farmer had no idea that his 1850 would blossom out into a bright color.

She wore a white dress and her FFA jacket.