Single Acting Hydraulic Cylinder tips for Oliver Tractors 

I make those long restrictor caps by buying an off the shelf rod connector nut and welding one end shut. A little grinding and it looks exactly like the originals.

Great information for future generations of Oliver owners. I learned most of this the hard way through trial and error before the internet. Thanks again on their behalf.

Thank you! I’ve been running a single acting cylinder on my 1550 following the method in the book. Turning that bolt by your right foot in and out is tedious and a pain. Now I need to see why one of my remotes only works in one direction. Your video is a great resource.

You are a wealth of knowledge Great explanation and demonstration.

Another good training video

Great video, I have a 1600 with a single acting cylinder. Now I know how to adjust the return with the 3-point arms will work

Chris, thanks for the video. You did a great job explaining the system. In fact, such a great job that I will just send my dad the link instead of driving over and adjusting the 1850 myself.

Thanks for showing how Oliver hydraulics work and how to use, service and adjust them. Was looking forward to using the content on our 1555

Great tutorial... Keep up the great videos...

My experience with single acting cylinders and Olivers has been with my Hardi sprayer. It has a built in single acting cylinder that raises and lowers the boom height when you spray. I asked my Oliver mechanic buddy Joe about how to plumb the left side of the hydraulics of my Oliver 77 for a single acting cylinder and he pointed me to the shop manual, which showed a pretty easy to follow diagram. You did a very detailed explanation of this topic which I'm sure will be helpful to a lot of people with fleetlines, 3 digit series, 50 and 55 series tractors.

Thanks for the video Chris good job of explaining the flow. I have flow charts from an Oliver service school that can be hung on the wall. I think I'll dig it out and rewatch this video. Have a blessed day

Thank you for the video! I'll have to do a little plumbing on my 770 and give it a try. Looks like it'll be awhile before I'll be raking hay with it since it's been so dry here

Wow that was hands-down a perfect explanation of that entire thing. I really could've used that 10 years ago when we were packing silage with the 1800, we had a blade on it just plugged into the remotes and it used to chatter when it was coming down violently. I would just Rev the tractor up like you said here, but then we would go to unload something off of a trailer with that same loader and it would be one of the most dangerous things you've ever witnessed haha

Thanks for the video. Now I know why my 1655 dose what it does. Lol I have a hesston 1410 and it tends to drift up. I do know that the hillier ground or rougher ground it will drift more. I do know that if you put the single action cylinder on the left side remotes the hydraulics will do goofy things .

My 1850 has the cap nuts. They work great when you screw the screw in for double acting, but almost impossible to use with them screwed out for single acting, because there is no way to hold the screw from screwing back in when you install the cap nut. You end up having to install another jam nut to hold the screw, and then screw the cap nut on top of that. I have to wonder why Oliver had the remote hydraulics like they did. All they had to do was have a float position on each spool (like almost all other brands have), then there would be no need to switch between single and double acting. The best modification I made was to add a Prince double acting with float valve to my power beyond circuit. Only thing I wish I had done was to got a dual remote, and I'd never use the factory remotes again. With the Pince valve I have a float position and can feather them up and down by moving the spool slowly, and not have to worry about adjusting restrictor vlaves. I also don't have to worry about the residual pressure raising the implement when in use. I love Olivers for the most part, but their factory remote hydraulics suck.

Pioneer also has a coupling that can be hooked up and unhooked under pressure They don't have a lever. They are only $40 a piece, I have them on my 1850 Wheatland and they work great. Thought I'd share my experience. Thanks for the info !

It is much cheaper to just put ball valves in line with the couplers, especially when there are tons of 1/2 ball valves just laying around.

My 1555 has the external hydraulic valve setup. My OMC haybine (same as a Gehl) has single acting hydraulics and it works good. I never hear the relief when I lower but it might be weak anyways...

Oliver 7 bottom semi mount plow on a steffes auction. It is listed as a john Deere but it is an Oliver. It is on the hay trust auction. It is in nice shape and I am think someone needs to save it. After note. I just realized this auction is 30 days later that I thought it was.

Hooray, it is Sunday again. The answer is simply the farmer complains and you have to tell him "Sorry, it is just the nature of the beast".

Chris great video. But totally off subject I have a “1956” Oliver super 88 row crop and was wondering if you knew of anywhere I could get the center brake pedal or the design of it. Thank you

I knew you had to have a video on the restrictor. I am having issues with my cultipacker on my 1650 amd bouncing going down. I tried adjusting the restrictor and it didn’t work so I thought I had the wrong one. So now I’m not sure what I need to do. Will have to do some checking on it. I screwed the restrictor in as far as it would go and didn’t notice any difference. Hmm

Thanks for the informative video Chris. Is there a way to add power beyond to the fleet line and 3 digit tractors. Grandpa is wanting to add a charrlynn power steering unit using power beyond rather than using the charlynn pump He has seen it once before but doesn’t remember how to do it.

Chris, I have a question! My White American 80 has 3 set's of scv's, two for my loader and one set for my external. We normally use my son's tractor cutting on his Case IH 8309, which he has his loader off, with two set's of scv's. His cutter needs 1 set for the swing and another single for his raise and lower. His tractor lost power and was overheating and that forced us to use the White, which made me have to unplug my tip for the loader, when we run the cutter. Then, when we go to load hay, we have to unplug the tip and plug the point back in. What would you suggest for a cure if any? A lot of good information, some a little harder to understand, but I get most of the single action use for return flow. Thanks for the info, have a great remainder of Sunday and the rest of the week too.

Thanks Chris! I was under the impression that both the bypass valve and the interlock bleed screw had to be turned out to operate a single acting cylinder? So after watching your video it's one or the other? I made the adjustments to operate a case IH 950 corn planter. My only complaint is it would be nice if the planter lowered faster. I'm going to try some new coupler tips first before next season. Any suggestions on the tractor side to allow the planter to lower faster? This is on an early 1650 BTW Thanks

I just bought a 1750 and it won’t lift the tailgate on the round baler more then 1/3 of the way and it struggles just to do that. Would that be a valve issue or a pump issue?

I see a large plug on that oil tank.. Can you connect a post pounder!?

What would be the symptoms of a thermal relief valve being open? I sent you a message the other day, about not having any pressure, won't even wiggle the needle on the gauge, at the flow divider,(priority valve). Illustration F1-115 in the Oliver Shop Manual. So no steering at all, but I have 2000psi at the remotes and 2000psi at the pressure relief valve. F1-108 The hydraulic pump is working, but there is not enough pressure to register on the gauge at the flow divider?

When about was a 415 sickle bar made? Also I found an Oliver 8 bottom pull tipe buy me sooooooooooooopooooooooooooo ima try buy iylt

Do you know where I could find old Ford gaskets and tork specks its a old Ford tractor

Hello, I have a 1600 and the hydraulics were not working when I bought it. The street does not respond, hydra power did not function and the 3 point didn’t have the power to lift itself. We removed the hydraulic pump, it seems fine. We are stumped. I would love to ask you questions!!! I am also in Michigan. Is it possible to contact you?

Please explain " power beyond " . That losses me , I've heard it , but nobody explains it .

1st

Here is the most consaversial thing I have ever said, I think Herman is kind of overrated. He is cool but we see so much of him. I think we should see more 1550 coming because they’re are the coolest tractors ever.