DEADLINE TIME! Hydraulic Pump Replacement Part 2 - Reassembly 

I have a couple videos of putting a pump in a 1550. They.were posted back in September. That one is almost identical.

what kind of upgrade hydraulic pump was there from the 50 to 55?

This Friday is drive your tractor to school day. Unfortunately Abby's left foot is in a boot after ankle surgery, so it looks like I get one more crack at being Super dad. I get to drive Ophelia to school.

Oh man poor kid on her senior year.. she could take the combine that a hydro haha

@@Adam_Poirier LOL. Maybe the lawn mower?

Thanks, Charlie.

I've thought about doing the exact same. They did offer an idiot light for that purpose later on. I'm adding one of those to the 1855.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris Probably a light would grab the attention of the idiot in the seat quicker (me). Aready ordered the gauges. Guess i wiil order a tee, sending unit, and indicator.Your videos get expensive. 😂

the lip seal is 104881A and the oring is K2027, same as 1/8" x 7/8" ID oring.

There are a few differences, but the basics are the same.

Thank you

Glad to help!

Thank you!

Glad you like them!

Thanks. That was my brother.

I wouldn't say common, but it does happen. I think it's more likely to get a rust hole. The other thing I have seen is if an axle bearing goes out, the bull gear can chew a hole through the pan.

It didn't end up being as bad as I envisioned. Shouldn't take much to touch up the bolts and whatnot.

I see guys posting on Facebook about switching to air ride seats. I would think one of them would be willing to sell their old seats. They might need reupholstered, but it's a starting point. I personally don't know of any for sale at the moment.

I just looked them up on Agco parts website and they are still available.

I guess I missed that. What time was it at?

Cool! I'm guessing yours doesn't have the access holes in the frame for the rear motor mounts?

It does not. I've been using that to judge the model year of 1850's for the past few years. My 1966 1850 has them.

Well, that helps narrow it down.

It really was a true 4 wheel drive. When engaged, there's no clutches or torque limiters, you could in theory run 100% of the power to the front wheels if the rears smehow lost 100% traction. They did offer a hydraulic front assist during the 1960s. It had limits though. It only worked in certain gears, not in reverse, the operator had a hand lever to match the speed, and it typically took a few feet for it to start pulling. It did have the advantage of greater wheel spacing, and better crop clearance, but like most early hydrostatic power it was prone to failure. Opting out of a 3 speed depended on which style the tractor had. If it was a chain coupler, there was just a shaft with the coupler at the back. If it was a trunion mount (enclosed) then they used a 3 speed housing with a shaft going through it, and a bearing in the rear to support the shaft. It had a plain steel cover for the side that normally had the pump and shifting controls.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris Wonderful information. Thank Your very much. :)

I forgot to address turning radius. It was definitely wider than a 2wd, but not as bad as many make it out to be. That's the main reason the front axle sits back as far as it does, to improve turning radius. The University of Nebraska has all of the tractor tests available for free online. I know Oliver sent in fwa versions for testing, but I don't remember if that included turning radius back then.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks again, much appreciated!

Yes, it should be fine.

Is steering working? Have you checked the relief valve?

@@ThatOliverGuyChris the steering is working and we tested the relief valve it was good too.

Have you disassembled the priority valve? The divider could be sticking and sending all the oil through the steering. There's also a pressure reducing valve that may be stuck. Usually if that one is stuck you don't have power steering.

We will look at the priority valve. Thanks for the help!

It depends on which cab, but the biggest hurdle is having something that can lift it high enough to clear everything before you move it. Other than that, unbolt it, disconnect any wires and heater hoses, and lift it off.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris so the fenders dash and and stuff like that stay with tractor, the cabs do not have their own floorboard but use the tractors? i have 770s and am looking at a 1750 but want to be able to fix on it myself like i do the 770s thanks good video

@@jimkurk5575 it depends on the cab. Some factory cabs you gad to remove the fenders, others they stay on. It seems like the majority of the aftermarket cabs required the fenders to be removed. Most of that era used the factory floorboards. My best advice is to clean it out well, take off any obvious mounts and then lift slowly and watch carefully for any you may have missed.

Diesel. The gas engines in both had good fuel economy compared to other makes, but it's hard to compare to the economy of a diesel.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris would you pick an 1855 over an 1850?

@@bendunkelman4853 that's a tough one. The improvements of the 55 series make it a nicer tractor to operate, but the reliability of the Perkins vs the Waukesha makes the 1850 a little more attractive. The simple solution is to have one of each.

@@ThatOliverGuyChris lol, if only. Can you tell me the difference between the Perkins engine in the 1850, 2-105, and 2-110?

@@bendunkelman4853, they're all 354 cubic inches, but there were numerous improvements over the years. They had a dot system they adopted to show what generation the engine was. Early ones in 1850s were a "no dot" engine, before Perkins came up with the system. By the late 1850, they had redesigned the head and manifolds, as well as the drive system for the injection pump. I'm fairly certain that is where the Dot 1 version began. When the 2-105 came out they were still using the dot 1, but at the end of the silver stripes Perkins had come out with the dot 4 version. The block was redesigned to get rid of the lifter covers on the right side, the pistons and rods were changed, enough things to make it almost an entirely new engine. I'm not aware of any dot 2 or 3 versions being used in Whites or Olivers. To the best of my knowledge the dot 4 was the last version of the 354, but there were later engines that looked very similar but with more displacement. Massey Ferguson used the 354 in many applications, and it's common for guys to get a combine engine and put it in an Oliver. That's when rhey discover the multiple differences between the two applications.

Audio fine on my end

I'm hearing it ok

Because every tool is a hammer!

Exactly

There were those extra bolts....

@@ThatOliverGuyChris shhh

I might have to dig a hole and bury them. It's kinda hard to deny where they came from with that paint.