1911 Barrel Fitting (Ep.3) | Where To Start! | Fusion Firearms 

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Yes, timing.... this is something that we can get into down the road. For most folks this is a non-issue. You generally have to work with what you have (Assembly wise). For most common gunsmiths and hobbyist, and using common good quality parts, timing is something that most will not have to worry about. Generally for most applications your build will fall into the tolerances for acceptable timing for 95%+ of all the shooters out there.

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Sir, The .157" is from the back of the hood to the shoulder. It will be where you may pick-up barrel contact on the opposite side of the ejection port. The sidewall. The sidewall dimension developed from the breech face to that sidewall shelf.

Roger that … Appreciate the response.

You're welcome, we try to do our best...:)

You can, most people at home will not have gauges. You can use a new factory cartridge to check if you don't have gauges. Also, On Semi-Auto pistols, it is best to have a bit of headspace, I generally like to see +.003-.006, especially in defense pistols. This will allow for dirt, debris, high primers... etc... variables that may cause jamming.

Learning experience, now you can think of a new exciting project.

For staking I just use a prick punch and bench lock. On the Colts, Yes, I do not understand why they have changed the hood width to a non-standard width, but yes we just mill the standard hood to fit. But, that is a good point, thanks for bring that up.

@@fusionfirearms didn't Colt Gold Cups always have a thinner barrel hood?

Check and see if the barrel hood is hitting on the right or left side of the breach face. You may need more clearance. There are many things that can cause this. you can email in for tech help, rserva@outlook and send pictures of what you are dealing with.

Is it a Fusion barrel? If so you do not have to mess with the lug depth, they are correct. Put the barrel bushing back in and tap the back of the slide with a small dead blow hammer or Nylon tipped hammer and see if you can get the back to match-up. If it does you will know that you are close.. Then you will probably need to relieve the ID of the bushing some, Sounds like you are binding up and the barrel is "springing", which will generally means the bushing is too tight, or you have too much interference at the back of the hood. look for rub spots on the barrel. Do the "Tap with the hammer" a few cycles and then remove barrel to see if you have indication(rub marks) of a heavy interference. Then file slightly those areas. Also, I am assuming you are using a No.3 (.278") link? Also, check barrel feet with link and slide stop pin to insure you are seating nicely and not binding..... hope this helps.

@@fusionfirearms Thanks for getting back to me, appreciate the info. I went ahead and proceeded with fitting the barrel and after taking a small amount off the hood and a little off the side of the barrel at the bottom of the lug grooves I now have .038 lug engagement and the slide is just about flush with the frame when all the way forward

Wear on the barrel hood really does not matter. Depending on how hard your lock-up is, you will generally get wear on the hood. As long as you do not have functional issues or binding you are generally OK. If you link high with a longer link size, this can also cause barrel hood wear or marks.

Yes, you can, I would first check the Slide Bore ID and make sure it is about .700". Then fit new bull barrel and reverse plug style. Tune and test.... and off you go.... Lots of bad information out there, Always go to the Pro's at Fusion for the real answers.

@@fusionfirearms Thank you for the response and for sharing your knowledge.

Have you tried to see if the sides of the top of the barrel where it locks into the breechface are rubbing hard ??? Look for the grey spot.... use a file... also, is the extractor bumping the back of the barrel???

Watch this video first. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CoxaLUs_28o.html

No, Bushing barrel, You can upgrade to a match bull barrel buy emailing customer services.

Just wondering because i saw some in stock at Budsgunshop(bushing not bull barrel)

This is a long topic & a good question, thank you. I will get this on our list to do a video on this. It really depends on what you are starting with and there are several schools of though. We will do this vid on the next run of filming.

Hard to say without looking at it. check it for interference's, such as rubbing the ejector. is this loaded or unloaded??? extractor binding on back of barrel There are many variables, this is a good topic to do a video on. We will put it on the list.

@@fusionfirearms no ejector installed and unloaded

email customer service

@@fusionfirearms thanks

The barrel will be locking up on an angle, this is normal. it is hard to tell without looking at it but it seems you have binding. 1) Look at your link size(maybe too high) and your barrel foot for excessive lock-up pressure with the slide stop pin. 2) I would look at the ID of the bushing and OD of the barrel, and you probably need ID bushing clearance added. I don't know what you are totally dealing with but I would also look at interference at the barrel bed and the clearance angle on the front of the barrel bed.

@@fusionfirearms after watching your videos and learning the terminology, I read the instructions again that came with the ed brown barrel. Apparently I had to file away some of the recess in the barrel locking lug. It was kinda odd because you could see where one of the recessed cuts in the lugs was not as long around the barrel on both sides like the other was. Once filed to about equal lengths and depths, it seemed to lock into battery. Thanks for the advice!

Yes we do, working on it

Don't know what you are talking about. We always test fire all full pistol assemblies before they leave the shop.

I want to make sure you get it...

And it seems like you got it....:)