this video is how I align up the cab to doors to the fenders and the hood. I go over where the alignment points are and how I do this alignment to get all your gaps looking good.
I wish youtube and your video was online to see 30 years back when I rebuilt my truck! Rest assured your video will save a ton of cussin' and lost patients! Great video and killer 3100!!
i am working on a 1957 now and the driver door is off and what you just said and showed me should help me greatly thank you for your video . i wish i lived near you so you could help me with it.. thank you for all the info Great video.. The blue paint job on your truck is what i want to do on the one i have also i love it it because my grandfather had a 51 that color.. i want to honor him by doing mine like it Thanks again
So, I'm in the process of putting this all back together. Glad to have found this video. Great job on explanation. My question is if the back of the doors are gapped properly as a stating point hoe do you get the correct gap between front of door and rear of fender. Mine seems a littlie tight seems I need to get the fender to move forward a bit. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
I would check the radiator support. Think of the front nose ( hood and fenders) move as one peace. Check both sides for the gaps. If one side is larger the the other push the nose toward the side with the larger gap. If both are tight, see if you can move the radiator support forward. There are times you might have to remove some bolts to get the gaps right and see where the bolts don't match. (I find this happens using parts from different trucks.) Then see if opening up the tight holes to make it fit. Sometimes, the cab might move back a fraction back, giving you the need gab.
Your so kind in sharing this info. I’ve looked at my truck many hours afraid to tackle this. Wondering if I’m going to be in over my head. This gives me the confidence I needed to make the choice. Thanks!
I just recently purchased a 55.2 without door or hinges on the truck or door. What is the starting position of hinges on the pillar. This is the most informative video on the web I have seen thanks 😊
first, one of these help if you are doing this by yourself www.eastwood.com/e-z-rest-door-hanger.html it is a door hanger that goes on to your floor jack, good. I put the hinges on loose on the door pillars. Slide the door on the hinges, you might have to move them to get them on the doors, this will give you a starting point. Tighten all the bolts just so they hold. Once the hinges are on the door this will start the alignment of the hinges. I try to get all the hinges in the middle of the alignment slots. Now slowly close the door to see if you have to move it up, down, forward or backwards . Make sure your hinges are in good shape, rebuild them first or get new. Adjust the door so your gaps are all somewhat the same. These old trucks dont have good gaps like new cars. let me know if this helps
I agree with other commenters, excellent tutorial. I do have one question nobody ever seems to address, “What stops rear corners of hood from scratching inside edge of fenders while opening/closing?”
I can think of a few things. My best guesses are. (1) When you close the hood slowly, your hood hindge should hold the rear of the hood up off the fenders and drop it down at the end. Sometimes you see people push down on the hood because it does not drop down all the way. If not look at the hindges and springs. (2) There are two adjustable hood bumpers/stops on the top of the firewall one on each side. These can be adjusted to hold the back of the hood up at the right hight. These should be adjusted so the hood rest on them. There are also other rubber bumpers running down the side and front of the hood to protect the hood to fender contact. (3)Fender alighment could be set to high. links below shows what the bumpers look like. Adjustable hood bumper: classicparts.com/1955-59-hood-adjuster-bolt-bumper-set?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx_xi4SALDmcofQvmTk6VThtC6nrUv-j-OOu10tqFeb4ipxyWGmttxhoCa0YQAvD_BwE Hood pumpers: classicparts.com/1955-57-hood-bumper-set?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx9sVBoOx7zc8YMVQRQiFiD_P_W-6wi43UYjjLerIuCZwxRLyQNsGmRoCoOkQAvD_BwE
I do have the vowel hood bumpers adjusted all the way down and the hood to fender bumpers installed. I tried after market hinges but they had a couple of incorrect dimensions that did not permit hood to close. I used new springs on old hinges but hood for not appear to lift before opening. I did find a crack in drivers side hood bracket that I’ll fix and see what happens. Thanks for the ideas.
@des5779 Question if the hood was set in place without the hindges. Does the hood sit right without hitting anything. It should sit on the bumpers and not hit.
Yes, it does sit on the bumpers and not hitting when closed. The back corners do not appear to raise when opening, therefore the hood corners drag the fenders because the fender angle narrows forward.
@des5779 from hood latched down mine sits flush. If I raise it to the first latch, the front raises, and the back tilts slightly but does not hit anything. If I raise the hood to the top of the latch the back starts to lift with the front. Lift from there the back lifts 1/2" to clear the frnders. Part of how the hinges works. If the back is not lifting, I seen when the hinges are sitting to low, not allowing the hinge to lift or lower the hood back end when opening or closing. For me, the point this happens is where the hood sits on top of the hood latch. Before the safety or lock. Raze it from there the back lifts with the front. Lower it below that point and the back should lower. It's about 1/2" of movement. This is what keeps the back of the hood from hitting the back of the fenders. Hope thus helps.
Absolutely great video - thanks!! I recently bought a “restored” 56 on which the door alignment is horrible. Especially the passenger door. It really bothers me. I played with the hinges but had no idea about the cab pivot point, the radiator support, and how the fender alignment works. I’ll watch this once or twice more and tackle the project next time we get a nice weather day!
Great Video, It's an art form to align these old rides. We've been fighting an alignment issue on a 57 Belair, all the gaps are good, except the passenger fender, it's lower and creates a bigger gap when the hood closes. any tips ?? or would you shim the fender and raise it up a bit ?
Some times its a shim, do to how straight everything is. Also check the back driverside fender if the front pasanger is high try swimming the driver side fender up if low take a shim out from the oppersite side. Sometimes a little moves a lot on the opposite side. Mine I have shims and as long as after you shim you don't have a fender or something looking like it don't fit or looking like you just hit something. Some times you have to shim everything else and not the part that is off. After saying all that if you shim that one fender and it looks good keep it.
@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 Thanks for the advice. Everything else lines up, except the passenger fender, it sits too low and creates a gap in the front once the hood is closed. Like I stated, been fighting this for bit now.
@@clevelandspeedshop5024 Sometimes I have had to split the gap between opposite sides. Kind of like a teeter totter. Shim the fender up and if it looks it's pointing somewhat up but all the lines look good. You can shim the opposite corner and push the fender down by lifting the back corner. I think of it as putting the body together and all lines fit. Then fit it to the frame and shim where needed. Sometimes there's a slite twist in the body or cab you can use the shims opposite of the twist and pull the corners down to take the twist out. Kind of rocking the body on the frame.
@billydean3068 if I understand the question. Let's say you are working on the left side fender. The top closest to the door will need to be shimmed up or the front of the fender needs to go down. Fender Shims can be used to tilt the fender to close the gap. Some fenders due to parts for frame not straight might need to weld to fill the gap. But if all good parts shims should work.
@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 Thanks, yes I understand all that, but I noticed your hinge is not like mine on my 1958 with the spring being attached to the inner fender. I have my Rad support all the way down with no shims. Everything is level hood cowl cab but I lack being able to move the fender counter clockwise. Nose down. I finally today removed the hood and detached the spring from the inner fender so I can move the inner fender with the outer together. We will see.
@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 Hey thanks for the reply! Do you remember how many shims you needed? I read somewhere that they needed 3 shims from the factory, but cab mount kits only come with 1 shim.
@@nedocaster I buy the shim assortment back you can get them from Amazon. Over the years the body and Fram move so the stock amount change. Each Fram and body are different so with the assortment of shims give you enough shame thick and very thin to get you body to sit straight. The stock amount found in the assembly manuals are a starting point on these old trucks and cars. Start there and shim where needed to get it sitting straight.
@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 yes I can, it will be a little bit as I pulled off the fenders and inner wheel wells to make it easier for wiring and some other finish touches. Do you by chance have the part number for the inner fender rubber that attaches to fenders at the cab. Thank you so much Sir!
@@72FrostyOne got my rubbers from classicparts.com. I think what your looking for is (1955-59) Front fender to cab seals part number 37-611 or inner fender seals part number 37-727. Before ordering please make sure this is what you need. They have a good selection of rubber for your truck.
