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Holy cow man!!!! Thank you sooooooo much!!!!!! I have been having issues with memory the last few years. I took my single bowl off at the same time doing the drum to disk swap. I did everything with no problem untill the vary end. I was completely stumped about the brake light switch. I went through so many video that didn't show exactly how the switch sits on the brake peddle and the push rod. Thank you so much for putting the extra details in that you do. With out a doubt your videos are some of the best step by step how to's on RU-vid for mustang. Im sure you can tell but im so Relieved I found this video. It serves me right for trying to use the youtube search and not going straight to your channel. Lesson learned l o l.
@AlfsMustangGarage a bit more detail, unfortunately I've had some memory issues in the last few years. Not good. What can you but carry-on right? I took everything apart got it all back together except the light switch. I was sooooo stumped. When I get like that I'm my own worse enemy lol. Like I said your video was the only one showing the switch order of assembly. Such a simple thing most guys think you don't even need to show it. Can't believe I was so wound up. Comes with the condition. Thaks again man.l!!!!!!
@AlfsMustangGarage I asked you a couple of days ago about what MC to use. I drove myself crazy looking at bore sizes and outlet line sizes. I came back here and found the MC you used in the description. I'll have to redo the lines but that's fine, the 1st time was practice lol. Thanks man. Just so you know my friends and I consider your videos the equivalent to the old chilton and haynes books. One of my buddies will respond "go ask Alf" when we get stuck.
Good tips for a drum/drum install, I founded the 1952-59 Ford Group on the H.A.M.B. back in 2009 and a lot of our members used the 1967-70 Mustang drum/drum master to upgrade their 50's Fords so other than some minor fabrication of the brake lines the steps are simular. Thanks for posting.
Great detail Alf. Ive been working on Mustangs since I was 19, I'm 57 now. You have taught an old dog a lot of new tricks. Thanks for the details and patients in making these videos! I need the 4 port proportioning valve like the one in this video and cant find it any where. Do you know where i can purchase it?
Does this car have front disc brakes or drums all around? Reason I’m asking, is because I just converted my front drums to disc and now I’m having an issue as to how to attach the lines with a proportioning valve (no booster) Thanks
@@AlfsMustangGarage can you send me instructions on how to set it with a dual bowl master cylinder and proportioning valve? I’m trying to get my car back on the road. Note: the master cylinder is already bench bled. Much appreciated
So here is a link for my video where I converted the front to disc and added the prop valve. This car has a booster but the prop valve hook ups are the same. Let me know if you still have questions after watching this. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-moduHIa_pAU.html
@@AlfsMustangGarage ok. I’ll try that. Last question (I think) why in other videos, they close off the bottom rear valve off the block? That’s really my confusion. Again, I’m appreciative of your time
So that valve that you're seeing in this video is the distribution block not a proportioning valve. The reason why the one port gets plugged is because that is for the rear lines. So instead of the rear lines getting fed from the block, the rear lines now get fed directly from the master cylinder.
Thank you. The car is an auto C4. In the near future I will be upgrading to a manual T5. Is there a power booster that can be used with either. So a pedal adapter is also required for the auto now. Appreciate your help
The bleeder kit that I got had small cone shaped plugs that you can insert to the holes. Then when you install the master cylinder and are ready for lines, you can pull them and hurry to install the lines.
Thanks for posting this and the many other videos that are very helpful. I am working on a 65 Mustang with power drum/drum. I would like to upgrade to a dual bowl MC. At this time, I plan to retain the drum/drum brakes. Can I use the MC and booster that would fit a 67 power drum/drum setup? Or is it necessary to buy a unit specifically designed to convert the 65 single MC with booster to a dual MC with booster? Thanks for your help!
So typically when I do the dual bowl conversions, I use the 67 master cylinder. However, I've never converted one that has factory power drums. There isn't much room there before you hit the shock tower. I would search NPD to see if they have something specific for that application and if they do, I would get that.
I had to see the video again as I I am in the process of upgrading the 65 Mustang to disc brakes and would like to install a power booster master cylinder. Could you indicate if the brake pedal ratio should be left as is? I question this because from what I have been reading when the MC has power booster the pedal ratio has to be modified. Appreciate your reply. Thank you. German
www.npdlink.com/product/booster-assy-pb-conversion/103476/200347?year=1966 So I provided a link to a power brake booster to convert from manual brakes for a 65-66 Mustang with automatic transmission. In that link there will scroll down and see some links to PDF files you can look at the instructions. The 65-66 cars used a 4:1 pedal ratio adapter that will install when you do this conversion but only on cars with auto trans. The But to answer your question, if you're running an Auto transmission, you will need to get the correct booster for auto and use the pedal ratio adapter. If you're running a manual transmission, the brackets are setup different and should already be setup for the correct pedal ratio. Hope that makes sense, let me know if you have any other questions.
Hi Alf, I know this is an older video so I hope you see this message. Will the 67 master cylinder shown in this video work for a front disc brake swap? My disc brakes will be manual not boosted.
Hey Thanks for the great content! I had a couple questions if you don't mind. One was how do you get the original pushrod out? Second how do you put it back in the new master cylinder? I tried just pulling on it and it doesn't seem to just come out. Thanks for your time!
The pushrods have a retaining clip on the end. Essentially, it's brute force to get them free. One thing that I've done is mount the master cylinder to the car like normal. Install the push rod to the brake pedal. Push the pedal all the way down and yank the pedal back up really hard. That usually does it for me. The new push rod will just push right in.
The very last question, and I swear! Lol where did you get the adapter fitting for the proportioning valve? I'm gonna check the auto parts store but if you had any info I'd appreciate it. These guys at the parts store can be helpful at times but most of the time not so much. Thanks again!
Hey I have enjoyed all of the videos. I just finished this upgrade on my 65. I have been trying to get the brake/stop switch back on for well an amount of time I am embarrassed to say. I see you just literally just pushed it on. Does the push rod go all the way on then install the brake light. I may have just gotten so frustrated. I am at my whit's end. Please help
So this might be difficult for me to describe how to install the brake light switch but here it goes. So i think what helps me is the pushrod goes on but not 100% of the way. there is a slotted end and an end with a hole on the light switch. Put the slotted end up and around the pushrod and the brake pedal at the same time. Once those are lined up in place you can push the pushrod on all the way taking the switch with it. I hope that helps.
@@AlfsMustangGarage thanks will try again at it tomorrow. Probably just got frustrated and hot h=down here in Houston. Will have to get another keeper pin as the one i had went to Mustang never never land.
Thanks for a great video. I'd like to run a 15/16 bore master, instead of 1 inch to change the force / pedal feel. I am having trouble finding a Ford OEM type, 15/16", Drum/Drum - I've only found ones at Wilwood. By chance do you know of a 15/16 "version" of this MC?
@@AlfsMustangGarage Nope - But I will - Thank you!. (I have found one at CPP p/n M-C1516-L , however it is a "Corvette style", and has fittings both sides - I'd like to stay away from both of those compromises). Thanks for the quick response!
FYI - Leed brakes does not - but they were very helpful. I may choose to run a 15/16 bore disc/drum MC with an external 10 psi residual pressure valve on the front 'disc' circuit, or go with the Wilwood (which I think requires external valves anyway)
No, just makes it more reliable. With the single bowl reservoir, if you developed a leak in any part of your brake system, you lost all your brakes. With the dual bowl, if you developed a leak in the rear, you would still have front brakes and could still stop your car.
@@AlfsMustangGarage thank you ! i’ve been meaning to do this with mine but was just wondering if it had any effect on braking power since other than this video i haven’t seen anyone talk about it
Hi, hoping you can help. I bought the dual master kit for my non-power drums on my 65' Mustang from CJ PonyParts. Before I start, been doing as much research as possible so that I know what to expect and any curveballs coming my way. 1. Some people have said it might have saved them time if they didn't bother removing the original pushrod at all (assuming it will come off freely) and just take off the old master cylinder and put the new one in place, leaving the original pushrod connected to the pedal. What do you think? 2. On the CJ PonyParts video for this entire procedure, they show the bench bleed process being done using the two blue plugs that came with the kit and not the hose method you are doing. What do you think? Starts about 5 minutes into the video. Here's the video link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uzmVp41GyC8.html 3. Once the master is bled, I assume no air gets sucked back into it from the open ports while you're transferring it on to the car. If I go with their method, I'll have to remove the blue plugs before attaching to the permanent lines. I may have more questions as I go, so any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
So the pushrods usually don't come off easily. Most of the time, I have to remove the pushrod from the brake pedal and then clamp the master cylinder in the vice to extract the pushrod. They will have a metal clip that keeps it retained in there. What I've done on many other vehicles is actually not transfer the pushrod but insted purchase an adjustable Scott Drake pushrod that way you can set it just right. I have one of those on hand listed on my Amazon store if you need one. I always use the tube bench bleeding method. I like to be able to visually see the air bubbles traveling through the tubes and then I don't question weather or not I got all the air out. Both methods work but I have my preferences. You won't get any air sucking back into the master cylinder when transfering the plugs out and the lines in as long as you don't let all the fluid drain from the bowl of the master cylinder or as long as you don't actuate the pushrod and suck air in. Hope that helps.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks! So if by chance I unbolt the master cylinder first and the pushrod comes out easily, can I just go with that and not bother removing from the pedal?
Yes. If by chance it comes right out, you could probably use that push rod. I've come across cars where it's too short and I've ended up going with the adjustable ones. You never know who has been in there over the last 50 years.
@@AlfsMustangGarage funny you say that. I’ve had the brakes redone twice in the last month by a shop. Had the car about two months now. The pedal when I bought it was low. Both times they’ve redone the brakes, still pretty low. Hoping the new master raises it up some, if not, maybe try the adjustable. With brand new shoes, how far should the pedal go before it’s engaging and tight, maybe an inch or two?
Oh ya it's hard to say after all the years if the car has the correct things. The different master cylinder typically won't change your pedal height. You'll change that with a different length push rod. Yet another reason I advocate for those adjustable ones. You can set it for what is comfortable for you.
