Here at Alf's Mustang Garage we try to focus on a variety of "how to" style videos that can be helpful in your project Mustang or classic car. We want to help keep your Mustang on the road and out of the Garage. We work on a variety of cars so we will post from time to time some none Mustang content but what you will see is going to be 98% classic Ford and Mustang. Check out our Amazon storefront to get those quality replacement parts for your classic Mustang www.amazon.com/shops/mustangalf
Nice video. One question. Does the kit come with a new steering column shaft. How do you know where to cut the steering column to get the correct length.
New carpet is my next project for my '69 convertible. Would you recommend the sound deadener & massback on the carpet kit also? Or would it be too thick & not form good? I have dual 40 series flowmasters so I would like to make the cabin a little quieter
@@AlfsMustangGarage I have a 1966 and I have figured out the steering wheel hub doesn’t work with the 66 switch set up. My steering hub is the 67-69 style. 1 pin on the cam that interfaces into the hub which turns the cam to flip the two ears. I’m going to have to do some research on my options
I have a rebuilt steer gear box off of a donor car. Do I have to yank out the column if I'm just replacing or can I just slide the old one out and put the new one back in? Thanks!
I have found that you have to remove column because you need to room to pull it out. Plus, if it's a V8 car and the engine is installed, you won't be able to get it out without pulling the engine.
This video helped me out a lot. Unfortunately, I had an extra couple of steps. I have a 61 falcon ranchero with a 200ci straight six. Those that are doing this for the Ranchero. 1. Loosen Sway Bar 2. Hoist engine slightly(with engine support bar- $80 at harbor frieght) to bolts that connect to the center bar, frame, and f engine mounts. 3. Remove center drag link on the passenger side. This is the most brutal step as ball forks and pitman tools dont work in that tight right angle squeeze that connects to the tie rod. I had to remove the tie rod(using ball fork tool) end that connects to the center drag link first, then give it a couple of whacks with a mallet to release the passenger side ball joint on the center drag link. Once that last third bar was dropped, I was finally able to remove the oil pan.
Thanks a lot. I owned a mustang when I was 17. And my Dad did everything. And its great to have someone show people how to do something like this, while others call it mundane...I call it stressful. I'm 59 now......
Do you have a video for c4 pump seal replacement? Also, need yor recommendation for seal brand and part number, and should I replace the bushing, too? If so, part number? 66 vert, 289 2V.
You should have done a run test so we can see if it works. Just replaced three different Senders on my 69 still does not work.. Gauge is fine when grounded.
Just a quick comment from having done this job recently. The 4 retaining nuts go onto Tee headed bolts that you have to hold into place while tightening so they stay oriented in the slots on the back, if not, you will bend the Tee head a on the back end of the bolt! Ask me how I know! Thanks for the video!
🔔😎 Old trick from 60 yrs ago: Find tdc. Roll piston down a little. Push a 1/4" cotton rope through the spark plug hole, roll the piston up to holdd the valves closed. About 2' of rope will do it, tie a knot in the outside end so you dont lose the rope. 🙄
🔔😎 I put solid sleeve from Currie in mine. Never have to be concerned by assembly or engine torque over stressing it. I prefer the Eaton TrueTrak gear type posi. Very agressive and very smooth. Must use plain mineral lube. No synthetic, no slip additive... Either reduces the posi bias. I always install a magnetic drain plug for easy routine oil changes.
What brand crankshaft/ bearings/pistons do you like to use or recommend? I have a stock 302 & I bought the edelbrock top end kit: aluminum water pump, timing chain set, aluminum heads & roller rockers, aluminum intake, 4 barrel carb, comp cam w/ lifters. Don't really want to add all that to my stock block parts. Any advice is gold, just like all your videos, many thanks Alf !!
I have a 66, 289 and no harness, just loose wires between the regulator and the alternator. I can't figure out where the wires should go. ISF and I forget the last one on the regulator. I Think S goes to the alt stater, F goes to the alt field, G goes to the alt ground, I goes ... where ? Somewhere a small light goes to indicate the exciter wire is working I think. Not sure about ANY of the ISF positions actually. Please advise. Frustrated.
I never got a notification for this video. And I'm still subscribed. 🤔. Odd. Glad I found it. I'm following this build. Will you eventually be doing a front end alignment also? I need to do one on my 68. Get it as close as I can in my garage.
Oh weird. Did you click on the notification bell to make sure it's turned on? Yes, we will get this car aligned but we actually have a guy we take it to for that sort of thing.
@AlfsMustangGarage yeah, I made sure nothing changed. It's all the same as it has been. I was hoping you had a way of a DIY way to do a basic alignment for the at home mechanics. Enough to get us started till it can go to a alignment shop. My 68 is undriveable at the moment due to a horrible alignment.
@hughphillips67Mustang ya sorry, I wish I had some tricks but ours is to eyeball it close enough and let the professional take it from there. Just just don't take it to a shop that does modern cars. I have an older man who does old cars on the side and is very good at what he does. We just tow truck them over and then drive them back.
@AlfsMustangGarage I can do that. I could tow it with my dually and enclosed trailer. 🙄. See, that's why I like you. Your so smart. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Lol
Hey Alf! Thanks for all the great videos! I’ve got a ‘67 convertible and I’m in the process of installing new suspension and disk brake conversion (CSRP). I’ve gotten everything removed and want to clean up the underside and wheel wells. What type of undercoating did you use? How important is it to grind all areas of surface rust back to bare metal? Thanks!
We used Raptor undercoating on this. You'll want to keep in mind if you sand that floor to bare metal, you need to coat it in a direct to metal epoxy primer first. The undercoating doesn't provide a sealing agent and is not intended for direct to metal. You don't necessarily have to take it to bare metal either. Just depends on the car if you still have the original primer down. We just did a very through job of cleaning and degreasing the floor and then went over the original primer with a light scuff before spraying the undercoating. I hope that helps.
I'm in the middle of doing this same CSRP disc brake conversion and I noticed a small discrepancy between your video and the CSRP instructions that I wanted to mention to be helpful (but no disrespect). At the 13:20 mark in the video, I see you use the PURPLEISH BLUE/Medium strength thread locker on the caliper bolts. CSRP calls for RED/high strength to be used on the caliper bolt in the instructions I'm using (pg 9 SWAP.1.3/PBU/AT)
Hey Al I’m gonna install a 4 barrow in my 289/302 I wanted to know what carburetor would you recommend also are using a battery press gun for the silicone
Yes that is a battery operated caulking gun. I won't be able to provide carburetor advise without knowing the specific details of your engine and geographical location.
Well knowing what kind of engine it is is one thing. Knowing what it's built with is another. Cam stock? Bore stock? Those sorts of details. But the casting numbers on the bottom under the starter motor will help you decode the year and if it's a 289 or 302.
I have followed your videos for a few years now. I have a 1963 Falcon and use all mustang parts. I am doing the whole suspension right now and I always think I can figure it out, but in the end I pull up your video and get the job done right. I subbed a long time ago but really need to thank you for saving my butt!!
Alf thanks again. went and check my washers on my car and realised they are on wrong way around. Would they all be the same no matter who made the washer set up. Love your work
Thanks for the whole series. I am currently in the process of freshing my 65. All the rubber has seen better days. We all know how that goes. Let me replace this, oh while I'm at it, better do the whole thing!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Completely restoring a 66 coupe! Just finishing the front end so I can paint the fire wall and get ready for the new engine! This is my first suspension rebuild but you make it easy! I'm going to put a new gear box and steering shaft in it Monday. No sure how to get the new one in but Ill pray it goes in easy!
@user-yn5kb7ep2l oh awesome! Lol so the next video in this series that I'm working on is installing the steering gear. We did the Borgeson power steering unit on this car, but ya that video I should have coming out next week.
Your links are just as glorious to have as your instructional videos! Just bought radiator, shroud, & spacer 👍 My question is what ratio of coolant & water is best (I'm in Southern California). And what's the best way to get all the air out of the system?
Oh awesome thank you. Can't go wrong with a 50/50 mixture. If you have access to a purge machine, that is an effective way. Other than that, we use Funnel Buddies.
Here is a link www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=asc_df_B01I40ZQWE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693585715857&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8399383639981502668&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029787&hvtargid=pla-381147636217&psc=1&mcid=365147ee3a7d3ec0b469dcc6784060f5&gad_source=1
