Hey there, we feel your pain... For those of us, in this hobby/addiction to torment ourselves on purpose.. We must thank you, for taking the time, to tell us, when a product just doesn't work out. It's the only defense we have, from wasting time and money on poorly engineered products. PS, I've seen similar complaints about the boosters used on "Leeds" brand kits sold from NPD and CJ Pony.. They're said have diaphragm leaks on arrival or shortly after install and use. I went with the Mustang Steve, Fox body type booster and Master cylinder kit, which uses a reengineered 65/66 drum brake pedal and pedal support bracket... I'll let ya how it stops when I get the car on the road.. God bless ..
Yeah, I guess there are problems everywhere. I just wish CSRP had used Ford's original method of bolting the booster to the firewall / pedal bracket, instead of coming up with a far worse idea. It's not something you realize until you're too far into the project to change your mind.
And the guy that sells them is a giant jerk. He wanted to charge me an enormous restock fee when I returned the brakes which I never even opened. I disputed with my credit card company and no restock fee. He didn’t have it anywhere on his site.
Love my manual CSRP brakes. They don’t make any that is better. I don’t understand why anybody would want power brakes, when manual disc brakes works awesome. They are not hard to push and they stop really well. It gives you a lot better feel for stopping.
@@TexarkanaPrepper Good to hear this. I consider this a huge mistake on my part, and plan on buying a manual disc / drum master cylinder as a spare for if the power booster pukes. I'll re-install the manual pedal since it's easy to deal with.
I used this setup around 20 years ago. Its BS. I have since used only factory boosters. I have used mustang Steve's 05-10 mustang disc brake conversion. I do have to use 17" wheels, but what a difference. Best braking 1968 Cougar I have ever had.
Possibly. However, it's a long way up to the bad spin weld. I don't even notice the wobble anymore, perhaps because it's under pressure from the master cylinder.
Yeah, it's just getting the pedal out and back in, is becoming nearly impossible for someone on the wrong side of 60. First remove the seat, steering wheel, and maybe instrument panel. Now, look at 4:47 in this video where I mention needing to remove or greatly loosen 4 bolts. Doing that requires removing the export brace and the hood. I managed it once with the hood in place which I'll never do again. When I remove the export brace on my car, the shock towers relax a bit , so a person has to deal with that.
