I gotta say I really like watching Dave, I’m very surprised he’s not more well known. He’s a Great teacher. I’m a 20 year tech and I still learn from him. This is Great stuff.
Thanks, Davin! Always a pleasure to watch someone work who has such attention to detail! And, as usual, thanks to the crew for the time-lapses and great camera work!
Looking at those aftermarket timing gear sets and the differences, quality control and tolerances has left the building, but the OEM just slides right in. Always a learning experience with Davin. Thank you Sir.
You never know, they might have put the wrong one in the box (it happens) as they sell shorter chains drive sets for blocks that have been align bored and honed usually in .005” and .010” undersize. Or maybe a communication breakdown with the person taking the order.
Absolutely a beautiful specimen of a SBC. Always loved the 283’s first engine I ever overhauled. $75 to rering and replace the bearings. Many moons ago, nice work keep it up.
I will also add, of all the wrenchers on RU-vid and other, I rather watch Davin than any of 'em. Something about his approach, understanding, and process (plus his choices of projects and platforms), makes me feel like when I was first in a garage looking at an engine, and that discovery and learning. his personality speaks to all levels at the same time. Plus, I had that exact 283 in my 66 Chevy II, with a 2-speed trans and a 4.11 rearend. it was even the same color. Keep on wrenching, Davin, I'll follow you wherever you pop up! always a fan. redline and haggerty seem like a good fit, and now they each have another fan thanks to you.
Man Davin I'm Proud Of You Son You Are A Mechanics, Mechanic !!! A True Gear Head And A Artiest!!! That is By Far One Of The Most Beautiful 283ci. Chevy Builds That I've Seen In A Long While Makes Me Want To Build One Like It!!! Great Job Davin and Keep Dooing Them Like You Do I Have No Complaints. Your Fan And A fellow Mechanic and Veteran Sfc. David.L.Ryan 7th SF.GRP Airborne Ret.
Hi, i usualy dont place comments, im just one of the many viewers. My opinion is, i don't agree with the "stock build doesnt need this" comments. I agree with all the steps you take on building engines. All i want to say is, Dont let those few get to you.
Lookin good as usual. I don't know about using those pressed in rocker studs with that beautiful hyd roller valvetrain. I realize it's not a solid roller with hundreds of pounds of spring pressure but from past experience I can say I've seen a lot of them back out over time with 500 ish lift flat tapper hyd cams and 100ish pound springs. SB Fords are worse than Chevy because they use a looser tolerance interference fit than GM. There's nothing wrong with leaving the stock studs in at your level but I would have at least drilled and roll pinned them to keep them in place. It's old school but it works. BTW, the hi performance Chevy 409s had pressed studs pinned from the factory.
Convert it too screw on filter. Those cartridges eat oil pressure. I learnt that decades ago, 25lb with cartridge, 35lb with screw on. And yes it was an AC cartridge. Plus resolve potential leaks. Pre 69 engines had 35 psi, update was 45-55 psi I doubt you can buy an early pump or parts so the 350 pump is what you will use. 20psi extra is a leak!! As for cam timing?? Different chains, different gear and different cams sets will move cam timing 10 degrees so they must all be checked. I have a Ford cam here that is 20 degrees out!
Why people dont want to just take a few extra hours and measurements is beyond me. It will only equate to a smoother running engine that has stronger durability in the end. More miles = more smiles!
So I'll say the way you checked clearance is great provided every valve seat is located in the head at the same depth. But having watched your videos for a couple years, I know you already checked the seats when the heads came back from the outside shop.
Checking the valve clearance is critical if you have changed the compression ratio by using pop up pistons and or milled the block deck height. Of course if you've installed a high lift cam valve clearance comes into play as well. Also if you are installing a stroker crank it's best to check the clearance as well . There are those that want to nerd out and calculate from the measured height of the valve reliefs in the piston top to the top of the machined deck at top dead center and add the thickness of the head gasket along with the total cam lift to the valve face for the theoretical clearance.
I'm not the least bit surprised at the lack of quality in timing sets. I ended up having to go through three different sets when doing a new chain on my Jeep 4.0 because the tolerances were so poor just on the fitment of the gears to the cam and crank. I didn't even bother degreeing it because it was just a timing chain job on a 180k+ motor, but I'd expect that my cam timing changed a decent bit as well.
Timing words to live by! I was once a tech for a major manufacturer and did a little test of the factory chain & gear sets over the course of a year when we had a lot of coolant leaks around front covers. Timing was all over the place and therein lies the one of the possible reasons why two otherwise identical new engines can perform so differently. Engine A runs like a gazelle and the other can't tear wet toilet paper. Checked cam timing on a bunch and could correlate the one that ran good to the actual cam timing spec. And vice versa. I still see those appalling white wheels on the Chevy truck! For shame!
My dad did a tear down of a customers boat engine years ago that had adjustable pushrods in it. Whoever put it together thought they were supposed to be used as the actual pushrod.
Nice clean built, I favour flat tappet cams with solid lifters, not much to go wrong there, forget the mad run in procedures and lock the clearances in, poly locks etc, they shouldn’t need adjustment every 10 minutes more like once a year on a low mileage classic, re-occurring theme is increasing RPM capability and shoving power up the rev range, max possible top end hp on your dyno ticket, no one cares ! on a road engine build for torque not rpm, save your money trying to control 8000 rpm and spend it on loosing weight and brakes, get in front and out brake the competition 👍
Enjoying the build and learning lots along the way. Unless I missed something, I didn’t hear what timing set ended up working. Several didn’t. The stock one was close to perfect but you weren’t going to re-use it. What did you end up using for the timing set?
Thanks Davin. Question; what would you do if the valve clearance was too tight? I ask this question as soon as I saw you measure the putty, so I apologize if you mentioned the answer at the end of the vid. 👍
You have a few options - none of them are super fun. Could try a thicker head gasket, but this will also lower your compression somewhat. Otherwise you either need to get additional clearance cut into your pistons, order different pistons with larger valve reliefs, or reduce your lift with a smaller cam or lower ratio rockers.
A quick question. Does the manifold on the 1964 impala 283 (twin barrel) fit the edelbrok 1406 600cfm carb? Or should the manifold be changed too? New to this🤦🏻♂️
Ck,ck,ck,ck, very informative again Davin, who would of thought that much different between different brands od trimming gears..allmost ready for Zoom,Zoom
PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE. In 1969 I had a Corvette with a 301 engine with a 30/30 cam. (does that tell you how old I am?) I seem to remember that it would turn 9000 RPM. Am I just a senile old man or not? Smokey Yunick claimed 12,000 RPM for his 302 Chevy''s. Of course I'm no Smokey Yunick but he had been known to stretch the truth but 9000 seems hard to believe now. Is it possible?
This is how much I don't know about American V-8 engines; what lubricates the connection that holds the two tappets together. It looks like there is a LOT of mechanical movement where that bar connects each of the paired tappets together. Is there oil spray in that gallery between the cylinders?
A question about that second timing gear set: It looked like it had three positions for the keyway that were about 120 degrees apart. Could you have broached in another keyway at the position you needed, or would it have been too close to one of the existing keyways? I know it isn't an option for everyone, but you do have more tools in that shop than the average joe!
I have no doubt that in an absolute pinch with no other options available, that Davin would be able to accomplish that. Thankfully we didn't have to resort to such tactics!
Question for the timing Davin, I understand your point of checking it, and I'm not trying to say that its fine to not check the timing on initial setup, but I've built a Rover V8 and I got another one on the go. With all standard parts, there is no adjustment for timing at all. The workshop manual if you follow it, doesn't even mention checking it. Of course, its not a high performance engine, but with all genuine parts, the timing should surely come close, right? How would you suggest to make timing adjustments on a system that doesn't have any adjustment? I didn't check it on initial setup (my friend said its probably worth checking, but I didn't because there's no adjustment and at the time, I wanted to get it back in my Disco ASAP), but on this next engine I will be. That engine I built has just clicked 15,000km. Love the content!
To make standard Chevs adjustable you could drill the dowel hole out and use offset bushes. Standard parts are usually pretty good (within an allowable tolerance) but if you want to be able to adjust it you usually need to go aftermarket. Most standard parts don't allow for adjustment because they wouldn't allow time for that sort of thing when installing the parts on the production line - unless you are buying an Aston Martin or something like that where the engine builder puts his name on the rocker cover. Rollmaster do a Rover V8 timing chain set with a 9-keyway crank gear - depends what sort of Rover V8 you have.
Well at least you didn't tease us with Snowball's car in the background. Is he dead yet? Who's the snow flake holding up the project? See what I did there? "snow ball", "snow flake"(LOL) C'mon fella's, get it running!!
Question: Valve clearance was measured after using two different length pushrods (unless I missed it), wouldn't this affect the measurement? Great video as always, keep em coming!
I think Davin covered this at 8:50 when talking about the difference between solid and hydraulic lifters. The difference in the pushrod length was just to check the contact area on the end of the valve (5:20) and there would have been no clearance on either due to the hydraulic lifters.
no such thing as "Not needed on a stock build" when making things right on the measurements and tighnesses so the engine dosent destroy itself from bad assembly
I completely disagree with the pushrod length method. In truth finding ACTUAL rocker geometry is SOOOO MUCH MORE than simply placing roller tips in the center of valve tips. But it seems to be rare to find accurate instructions.
I have to say, the meticulous steps performed on the engines that are rebuilt on this channel always pay off in the end. No one wants to go through the work involved to have a shortcut or an oversight to unravel hours of work.
