1970 Triumph TR6 Restoration Project - Part 13 - Assembling the Front Suspension 

I made the video for you. I was sure you wouldn't remember how to put it back together LOL. It was pleasure meeting you today in Ankaster. Thank you so much for the badge and also for the business cards idea. I think more than 150 were taken today. I wouldn't have thought of that! Thanks again!

Glad my videos help! Good luck with your TR4A

I am being careful, I don't want to damage the springs with my knuckles LOL

Thanks, Dan!

It was easy... this was the second, side LOL The first one took double the time even though I've done that before a couple of times :)

Hey, Doug! Thank YOU for giving me the rad! And not only that, but even hand delivering it. Thank you so much! I was going to send my wife to pick it up. She works in Bolton. She is away till 10th anyways. But you were so fast! Thanks again!

You are following so many channels (do not deny it, I've seen you everywhere LOL) that you should be able to build a car from scratch by now! I know you are one of my very early followers, so you should remember my skills 15-16 months ago. I am not perfect now, but I can tell I learned a lot. And everything I learned, I learned here in the RU-vid university. So I think it is about time to get yourself a rusty beauty and get dirty!

Elin Yakov thank you I have done alot of British car suspension rebuilds and electrical work over the last 40yrs(no body work) Anyway you always do things the right way and you make it easy to understand for those not as gifted ,Steve

I could barely get my hydraulic brakes on my bicycle to work after my service, but yeah it would be fun to try. Problem is, i have no garage so i would have to work outside so that's no good, and with a slipped disc in my lower back i can hardly bend over. I know lot's of excuses... if got somewhere inside to work i would like to try to strip down an engine, until then i will learn from you. ;)

I am glad my videos are helpful for other people's projects. Good luck!

Thank you John!

Thank you Jeff!

Hi Bob, my boss and I have a front TR6 tub that we bought to use the valance. So the valance is gone now, but we still have the inner fenders. I don't know where are you located, but I am sure there would be some British car enthusiasts around you. Just look up in e-bay and local websites. I keep finding everything I need online. If you are interested in that inner fender and you think the transport from Toronto will be worth let me know and I will talk to my boss. He is the financial guy in our common projects, I am the dirty job guy LOL

Yeah, the power of video editing. This "fast job" took me a day. At least the first side. This was the second one and I already had all the parts figured out, but it still took a good half a day or even more. Of course in the video I left only the highlights! Thanks for the comment!

LOL, the stretcher is useful thing, I don't mind everybody using it for free :) Yeah, these cars are small...

Thank you, Ollie! Glad my videos can help!

Thank you, Andy!

Avec plesir, Tony!

Thank you! The paint is called Rust Guard and it is from Wurth.

Oh yeah, I read a discussion somewhere about what oil or grease to use in the trunions. There were so many different opinions.... The truth is they were designed to use grease, hence the grease nipples. But also it is true the lubricants improved a lot since mid last century, so it is possible there to be better options... But I think that if there are many different opinions on the same subject there might be one option better than the other, but the ratio would be very close to 50/50 so I don't really waste too much time deciding which one to go with.

One of the reasons he gave me was that small particles of brass or whatever the trunions are made of, remains in the grease. With the use of oil the particles will fall to the bottom and not clog up the threads. I hope that some one with the experience could give us some advice. I'm looking at this: www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-BHA4576

As you said it is the spring what pushes the top and bottom arms apart and this causes extreme pressure on the threads of the trunnion and on the ball-joint. So it is normal the vertical arm to swivel hard after you install he spring. However once the shock goes in it should limit the spring's pressure and then everything should go back to normal. If it still "bites" then something with the geometry is wrong. And I can't think of anything else but the shock. You said it is stock, but the only thing that limits how far apart the top and bottom arms go is the shock. It acts like a stopper and if it is too long the trunnion and the ball joint become the stoppers. How was it swiveling before the spring? Maybe the trunninon is overtightened? I don't think it is possible, but I am just thinking here. Or if the ball-joint is new it might be a little tight in the beginning. Or maybe something in the assembly is not right. Is the bottom end of the shock tightened all the way up with the 4 nuts? Did you have only one mounting rubber on the shock stem before pushing it up through the spring? If you have two by mistake that would increase the length, but again I don't think it is possible, because the stem would become too short on top and you wouldn't be able to install the other mounting rubber, the washer and the nut. It is true that the weight of the body and the engine will compress the spring and release the pressure, but I don't think you should rely on that. I hope that helps and you can find the reason.

I am beginning to think they may have sent me the wrong shocks. The 4 nuts are tightened all the way down and the top post has 2 mounting rubbers - 1 below the shock tower and 1 above. One interesting point i need to mention, after writing my previous comment I double checked my shock and noticed I actually ran out of threads on the shock top post so the nut (nuts) is actually bottomed out. I think the shock actually still may have expansion travel in it. I think the trunnion is installed correctly as I could move it (swivel it) fairly easily prior to moving on. Prior to spring installation the assembly swiveled up and down and turned. It was stiff but I could move it and turn it. It was only after I installed the spring (which by the way I grabbed my other new one that goes on the other side and sized it up with the original that came off and they are identical in size - height and circumference) did the trunnion stopper bolt (sleeve or spacer) begin to rest on the lower base plate and has been there ever since. It cannot move up or down / side to side. To much pressure. Lastly - your time invested to share your thoughts and videos is greatly appreciated. This has left me baffled for sure.. Thanks Elin... Sincerely, Dan.

PS. To answer your question. The car drove prior to tear down so everything functioned. I drove it into my garage and started my frame off restoration.

The power of video editing LOL

Yess... . I"m always wondering about people tellig about repairs on TR6, that take them only some minutes and max 1,5 hours maybe. I my case it take always days to "fix" something.

Hahah, that was for the guys who call me with the girl's version of Elin LOL. Anyways, I don't mind and I understand. It is not a common name. Yeah, in our shop you can't last if you are not versatile. It is not a production line where you do the same thing all the time. We build limos and there are many, many things to do. Many times when people are done with their part, they need to move to something else or go home and come back when there is more for them. So we move them around. And they seem to like it too.

I bet you learn a lot of new skills working in a shop like yours.

Thank you, Hovsep! I watched your video and left you a comment. Your project looks great. It looks like you have a very nice shop and you will have a beautiful car soon. I'd love to see more of it!