We had a customer, who brought his TR6 for a frame repair. I took the opportunity to film and share the process. Hopefully it will be helpful for some restoration enthusiasts.
It is really nice to see such high quality work done. The world is filled with hacked-together videos of people that are convinced they know what they're doing. In this case, I'm convinced that you know what YOU'RE doing. That's fantastic. Thanks for sharing. This is the kind of education that I am always hoping for when I watch youtube videos, but I rarely find. Great job!
Thanks for the nice comment. I am not a pro and I learn as I go, but I always try to explain my way of thinking and why I do things, so other people can learn with me or learn from my mistakes, which I don't cut out... usually LOL Thanks again!
The reason I watched this video is that yesterday I drove 375 miles to look at a TR6.. It was a very good car except for the door gaps. At the bottom rear of both doors 1/8th inch (3 mm) At the to 5/8ths inch (16 mm). It was obvious to me that there was a frame problem. I declined purchase because I specifically did not want to get into another frame off car. Excellent video..Thanks . I have passed this on to the owner of the car. One other note.. If I were the owner of the car you were working on.. I would have stripped the frame down and proceeded with a proper restoration.. Now was the perfect time. Just my opinion.
Yes, door gaps are a pretty good sign for a frame issue. Well, this actually turned into a pretty deep restoration, as you can see this is only part 1 of many. Unfortunately I wasn't able to finish this restoration as the owner of the car and my boss had some issues and parted ways before the car was ready, but there are few more project TR6s and Spitfires that I completed or I am still working on and you can watch those restorations on my RU-vid channel.
I think body on frame cars are great they have so many advantages over unibody cars. Its great to see a piece of metal that's being replaced rather than patched it looks more original.
Very good restoration. A great idea to make a jig for the replacement part so that it fits exactly where it should. You have excellent skills and keep putting up more videos of chassis restorations. All the very best 🙂
I am so happy for you! After I drove mine home yesterday and everything went well, I took her on her first real road trip today after the engine was replaced with the freshly rebuilt 1296cc one. 160km and she behaved so well. We went with my son to a British car flee market near Toronto and I met so many people who I know from RU-vid. It was a great day! One day I will drive down to Hawaii for a beer with you! LOL
hey great work and video have to replace those one a few of mine also it seems they all fail in that spot badly check under the top of the t shirt also it is another know rust area i like the jig idea might try that keep going and posting I am slower than you in getting things done keep it up
Thanks, Oliver! Yes, they all have this weak spot and the front inner rockers too, because of the drains of the air chamber. They literally drain the water on top of the sills behind the font fenders
Elin your videos are an incredible resource. I am getting ready to make a serious attempt a my 72 TR6 chassis. I have seen in a couple of your videos where you lift the body with an overhead hoist. Can you provide more detail as to what body points you are connecting the straps? Especially where you reach down into the engine bay and make a connection. The rear straps look like you might be connecting to seat belt anchors. Am I correct? Thank You.
Yes, I connect two straps to the seat belt anchors at the bottom of the B-post and that pretty much balances the body. The front end is a little bit heavier than the rear, but the difference is so small that many times I do not even use a third strap, I just lift the front end and navigate it with one hand. Whenever I need my hands I use a third strap in the engine bay and usually I hook it up to the top of the transmission opening. Again, the entire weight is on the 2 rear straps. this third strap won't damage anything. I hope that helps
@@RustyBeauties Thank you for the feedback. Just for more clarity on my part, based on this pic (link below), if you were using a third strap you would hook it at the top center of the transmission tunnel opening and if using a third and fourth strap you would hook them at the lower left and right of the opening. Correct? Credit this photo to MacysGarage www.macysgarage.com/index_htm_files/1337.jpg
I agree. It is not worth going through all the work to lift the body and not changing both sides. The customer asked us just to patch the right side, but we convinced him it was a bad idea, so we are doing the other side now.
I am looking to buy a clasic car and the TR6 is lovely BUT !! any car of that age which has a box section chassis will always be a problem.Rust from the inside out.I had a Land Rover discovery D2 chassis looked ok outside but rusted badly on the inside. If only waxyle or something simular was inserted into the cavities on the box sectionwhen being built,but of course the manufactors had no interest in making the cars last longer...sadly.
Hi Don. I am sorry, our shop's main business is limousine building and the Triumphs are just a hobby. Usually we do not take customer's cars for restorations as we are too busy. We took just one from a friend when we were not busy, but we had to put it to the side couple of times already. I usually restore our own Triumphs in the shop only after hours and in weekends and my schedule is full two years ahead.... I am sorry about that.
Hi Don. I spoke to the owner of the shop and he is actually interested, as long as you are not in a great hurry with the car. Wwe are very, very busy right now, but If you could send me some more information and pictures to my email ecibg@yahoo.com it would be great. I will email you back with details of the shop and we can arrange something. If you are still interested you can even come to the shop, see what we are doing and discuss more details.
Do not use small grinder with no guard it is stupid use bigger grinder if you need to get in somewhere easier to control no guard no arm or leg if it kicks or blade breaks up
