1988 Ford Mustang On3 Turbo Stock Block Stock Cam 70mm DYNO TIME! Project HOTWHEELS! 

Thanks man. I agree sometimes 400 is way more fun!

Fuck you can have fun with 200hp

Yes it does!!!😂😂😂

Thanks man! Im glad to hear that!

Right on!

I think so too. I appreciate comment

It was over 400 way it was. The point is to make power with nothing but factory parts. Not gt40... the factory mustang stuff. Stay tuned soon I’ll be back at Dyno with same combo and it’ll be different watch

Yes its a 4 bank SCT eliminator chip we burn the final run tune on it.

Sonic blue

None, if thats on the dyno then its open down pipe. It doesnt get exhaust until after it leaves ( i have a cut out section)

North east Ohio.

Sonic blue and thanks !

Simple 3” with a muffler. However there is a cutout on the Dyno.

@@Neomustangs okay thanks for replying back to me.

SCT ba5000. Quarterhorse was tuner

@@Neomustangs thank you

Stock computer? Who tuned, just a chip?

Thats because most 5.0 mustang have forged internals from factory i know theres a couple years they stoped putting forged rods and pistons i think it was 94 and 95

But there are reports of the block cracking at over 500

@@joe2825 stock computer with sct chip

on yup my 91 had forged internals...but still a stock block. That's why I said you still need a good tune

Just fine. Really

Joel Fierros, Dannie Addair, AKA-NEOMUSTANGS is a wealth of knowledge, he’s the biggest reason I got into the boost game.. I can’t express how much he helped me along the way, from getting my first kit to install and all the way through my dyno tunes at TI-Dyno.. He’s a great guy and if he tells you something or gives you advice, it’s no bull ! I wish you luck with your build, and if you’re lucky, maybe Dannie with guide you along the way. #NEOMUSTANGSFTW !

Hopefully he does, really want to do a good turbo build car now. Love what he has been doing with the push rod motors. Everyone telling me to just put a ls engine in it but no I’m not going to do what everyone’s doing. I’ll rather build my 5.0.

Thanks Ryan for all the kind words. Glad I could be part of your experience. Your a cool guy to know.

Neomustangs what do you suggest me do?

Neomustangs I went to my first drag races in Sacramento ca yesterday and I loved it. I’m used just doing donuts and seeing people do them out here in the bay area but really loved seeing cars drag race plus my daughter loved it too.

I rebuild my own T5s. I can tell you a full rebuild kit alone from Tremec is like $350. Not including any gears/sliders/hubs that might need replaced. Popping out of gear sounds like a slider and a gear at least.

@@Neomustangs you were right it needs slider and 2nd gear and new bearings and new synchronizers and the flywheel needs turned. Question for you does the flywheel have anything to do with the power of the car?

No this is a precision 76

Bruh I been bending and breaking these blocks for 20 years. It’s in the tune. Period.

@@Neomustangs oh okay, not asking you to spill secrets but is it in the timing or boost they run? Not an expert by far I imagine it has to do with cylinder pressure/temp? Either way, I'm glad you and him are running Windsors and not LS swapping like the rest of these guys.

Nevermind, coworker said the trick is to run no timing when you boost it. Keep your secrets lol

Manual boost controller.

I had pieces and parts from others

Yes!

Build your own like I did. I built my hot side and most of my intercooler piping for $30. Scrap 2.5 exhaust tubing from the local muffler shop. Flipped bbk short headers, $60 Ebay intercooler and a used 69mm vs racing unit. All the money went into the fuel system and it's about to get re done.

@@bryanroupe8646 I want it to work. I'm not as talented as most people. I'm not sure if I should keep my SBF and turbocharge it or go '03-'04 Cobra Terminator swap.

As long at theres no exhaust leaks should be fine. I cant weld for shit and did it with a $100 harbor freight welder. Doesnt have to be pretty mine isn't. Just get the materials and start sticking shit together. I'm a pushrod guy. Not really a huge fan of the modular stuff.

Buy a Super charger and throw it on.

@@bryanroupe8646 I have to check again, but Vortech and Procharger don't support '86-'95 cars anymore. I know Hellion doesn't. I was going to order a kit and it's not on their website anymore. I have to check On3's website again. I know their kits aren't available through American Muscle or LMR either. 5.0 parts are drying up.

A direct wired 340 in tank

M1-102

If it was E85 I’d say send it but 114 with 10.9 CR on 10 pounds isn’t doing you much of a favor. You could try it I guess. Probably be ok. But again that’s a lot of money replacing if your wrong.

Bring the cr down to 8.5-9.0

Nah compression mid 9.5-10 is a sweet spot. At least for me its always been.

Neomustangs can you apply that to most gas engines for boost or just the sbf?

No way I like the grunt of a higher comp engine. May throw on a thicker gasket it has a .039 .. I'm probably going to just take a few and set it up for e85. Been wanting to for a minute just been putting it off.

Yes it is.

66” ? But that number will be off pending on crank size

I’m running a under drive pulley thanks for the info

Ty

What valve springs did you go with?

Alvin Mann Trickflow 2500-100

Awesome thanks man!

I’m not running 15. I’m running 12.5. And it’s 15 degrees

@@Neomustangs my bad I thought I saw somewhere you ran 15ish at one time I plan on running 16 or so on a budget build blow through setup I'm locking my timing at something mild and running it, built engine though not just stock block, love the vids man

yeeyee rmz250 ya my old stock block GT40 build I ran 15 degrees.

God no. It’ll be fine for years. Check out my other videos. 380-400 we just getting started.

Who do you think gave him inspiration years ago lmao

THe dude I tune with is the super coupe jesus. AKA The mad scientist Dave Dalke.. Its how he learned how to tune EECIV was from birds.

Neomustangs NO WAY YOU TUNE WITH DAVE?! indirectly know him through facebook going to need him to work on my sc soon lol

Angelo Koukoulis Yes he and I are good friends.

What part of ohio are u guys from

No way. That is 565 at the crank.

whole block is stock. minus head studs and valve springs.

@@Neomustangs really these thing make over 400 with the turbo and stock motor

Yep and im gonna make more. Watch you'll see. It will all be videoed too no cheating AkA porting, forged crank.. stroker etc.

About that yes. 387/410 was final good run. THe run where the clutch smoked that was gonna be 400 +

It is ....

.....not This was back before everyone had a thousand horse just to get to Walmart

Easy Come Easy Go the fox 87-92 was forged pistons TRW. Stamped right on them. Thanks tho

@@Neomustangs I always heard you'll crack the block before you blow the rotating assembly. I knew about the Pistons being forged. Though the myth was it was just on the 89 motor. Which turns out to be false from my recent search. Crankshaft however is cast. They say the rods are forged up to the year 2000 5.0. But most said if you plan to rev past 6500 you should get new ones. They do support a little over 700 horsepower but not for the long run. according to the machine shop I went to, I brought my rotating assembly from my boss 302 crate motor to the Machine Shop. The guy said these were only production 302 rods. He told me a few of the rods were slightly bent. So it's a good thing I didn't keep pushing the motor. The mahle Pistons and Eagle crankshaft are a Little Bit Stronger. Car was running on 93 octane only I did four passes on the track the rest was all Street driving 3 years worth, not a daily driver. So it got beat hard every time I drove it. Ford Racing had told me the rods in the crate motor we're good to 700 crank. Machine shop told me the rods were Factory rods that came in the production 5.0. So the rods will take 700chp, but they are not meant to take it for long. 500whp safely i bet. I was doing 638whp 670tq, on 93, stick shift. I remembered the TRW stamped on the underside of my 89 GTs 5.0. The wife went through a puddle of water in hydrolocked the motor... Big puddle, lol. Cylinder 1 and 8 had bent rods like bananas. When I disassembled the motor to see what the ticking noise was, I found a number 1 and number 8 cylinder or hitting the crankshaft because the rod was bent, lol. 8 months after the puddle. I ended up taking the rotating assembly out of my on high output 5.0 from a Thunderbird. I lost a little power but at least I still had a car👍

The point was not to do the swap. But to see how exactly a bone stock motor would respond !

It responded well

Beyond expectations

Not even sure what you mean....

what?

Js, stock except for a lot.

Missing the point.....

Am I? I guess

Nope it’s why we tune

@@Neomustangs you make it seem like motors have never blown on tunes before o.O

1LE Azul and you are making it seem like it’s gonna blow up on 380 Rwhp. Bro you seen my other videos lol?

Hell im more worried about the T5 than the motor and tune lol

My 93 cobra block split at 380rwhp, 9 psi. Took a couple years but it finally went.

Depends on tune, weight and many other factors. THere is not magic number.

@@Neomustangs thanks for youre answer, we just set 511WHP and 572lbs/torque on my brother Mustang with 18psi, On3 Performance Turbo, pump fuel and water/methanol injection but we are thinking if we can get more haha, we follow youre channel you make Nice projects 👌🏻💪🏻

@@DongaRacing THats a lot of PSI for a stock block. Nice number!

@@Neomustangs he just rebuild the engine with forged conneting rods and forged pistons, and MLS head gaskets, but we are worried about the block could explote hahaha