You are one cool person.. I cant believe how helpful you are to so many people at no cost.. Before youtube a person would need to go to a mechanic if they had no education about mechanics.. Now they just look you up and save hundreds if not thousands of dollars.. You gotta have a big heart to share such valuable knowledge and be happy to have helped someone else.. My thought would be you or someone you know was overcharged for repairs that didn't really cost as much as the mechanic said it did and/or wasn't very difficult to repair. I don't really know what caused you to help people the way you do but whatever the reason I don't think any of us could thank you enough. I just hope you end up rich(if you haven't already) Take care.
3/8 metric socket set with different size extensions. Should be 12mm. I would bring a metric wrench set too. And a Phillips screwdriver in case you need to take the cap off. Some wd-40 in case a screw or bolt is stuck. Don't forget a rag.
Thanks! Going to change mine now. Been having and intermittent hard start with check engine light comming on, stalled twice on me at traffic lights already. Jumped connector on pass. Side kick panel, trouble code 8 (blinked 8 times) looked it up says top dead centre sensor. Honda-tech says replace whole distributer. Thanks for this, hoping if I mark everything and work slowly that I won't need timing light.
DoneWrongType Those sensors are hard to get to. Would change the distributor. Save your old one though. Has good coil and ignition control module. If yours go bad, you have some backups. Good luck.
Follow up: Hey so I changed my distributer with a new one $140 from carquest. Went in like a breeze. Marked position of old one as reference and took her for a spin. Everything is A ok! Thanks again! Ended up getting wires and plugs to top her off;) going to install them once she cooks off.
Got a 93 Accord LX, just bought it used. Ran fine, and then it died on me in the middle of driving through a Fast Food drive thru. After trying to start it again (it would turn over but wouldn't start) I let it sit for a few minutes and it started up again just like nothing happened. Took it to a mechanic, he couldn't get it to die so of course he said "nothing wrong!" Except it died on the way home from said mechanic. After 2-5 minutes it restarted and got me home without any issues. I did some research, and changed out the PGM-FI Main Relay, as they've been known to cause similar issues when the circuit board soldering cracks. So, naturally, I swapped it out (it is a pain to get to btw). The old one did have cracked soldering, so I thought my issue fixed. Let it sit and run for a good 30 minutes, then drove it for 90 minutes. Pulled into Safeway, ran in (left it running) for 10 minutes, and then left. I drove maybe 300 feet, and came to a soft stop to pull out onto the street and it dies again on me. Check engine light comes on, and stays on, until i turn it completely off and let it sit for 10 minutes. Restarted just fine and got home with no issues. Let it sit for 20 minutes, took it for three trips around the neighborhood, and it didn't die. I've got an appointment with a more reputable mechanic on Friday, but if I can fix this myself and not pour money down the drain for labor costs, I'd love to. Any suggestions? (Apologies for the novel)
Edward Neal Sounds like your coil is going out, or your ignition control module. Fist thing you want to do, is drive to your parts store an have them test your car battery while it is in the car. If they have a halfway descent tester, it should test your battery, alternator, and starter. After insuring your batter and alternator are good, you can go on to test your coil. I am getting ready to make a video on how to do that. You basically hook an ohm meter up to your coil and see if it is in spec. I suspect yours is out of spec. It is pretty easy to change out.
tubejim101 Got the battery replaced, as it was bad. Starter and alternator are good. Have appt in the morning at the local mechanic's shop to check the Ignition Coil/ICM and to replace some cooling fans. Fingers crossed. (Shot in the dark here, but what are the odds of the issue being solely the bad battery?)
Edward Neal Should always start and end at your battery. This video explains my thinking on this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3AIGvO5vV1o.html
Edward Neal If your still having issues after installing your new battery, I would have the coil checked next. Usually if the ICM is bad, the car won't start, just turns over.
Sounds like your Cylinder Position Sensor, which is in your distributor. It is easiest to just swap out the whole distributor. If you are hurting for money, you can try to just swap out the sensor. It is a little tricky just to work on the sensor. Save your old distributor. The other parts in it may come in handy.
You did a nice job on the video.I have watched several videos on the distributor removal on the Honda and yours is the best I've seen. But why are you guys so afraid of taking off the distributor cap? To me it is a lot easier to index the distributor shaft tp the end or the cam. Plus you can not goof up the firing order if you leave the wires in the cap. Plus when you pull on the wire when taking it off the cap you stand a chance of breaking the conductor inside the wire.
Yes. If your lucky, it is just the rubber ring, at the bottom, outside of the distributor, that needs to be replaced. If it is leaking past the metal shaft, thats not good.
My Car starts just fine on a cold start , then drive it for 20-30 mins then It cranks craanks and cranks then starts, then throws a CODE 8 , I'm only getting a code 8 nothing else, is this my Dissy? or whats goin on.... Because the code book says TDC Sensor.. HELP PLEASE!!
First try this. Remove battery cable for 10 second. Start the engine and see if code returns. If it does see this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G9HFL5WQM6Q.html
Hi Sir if I didn't know that one needed to mark the distributor on f23a1 and now my car won't start..do I now leave distributor on and redo the timing from bottom to the top.
I am not familiar with that engine. On 90's Hondas, you can just put the distributor in the center, and that will be close to timed. The car should start with it in the center, then you can adjust the timing.
My son's 1991 Honda Accord EX cranks well, good battery, just stopped firing the other day. I talked to a few local mechanics who said the distributor was the usual suspect. Would you agree?
randydavisman Take your cap off. Is there oil in the distributor? How do the wires look? All old and cracked? Rusty? If everything looks good, it is most likely a bad coil. You can test them out with an ohm meter.
randydavisman You can change out the coil, or the igniter unit, without having to replace the whole distributor. Removing the distributor from the engine, makes the work much easier.
randydavisman Ignition coil is about about $70. Remanufactured distributor is about $140. If you have them change the distributor, make sure they re-set your timing after they get done. Also, ask to keep your "bad" one. That way, they won't just put a new coil in, and sell it for $200 to someone else.
Originally my car was shaking really hard, and it threw a code 8, and 15. So, I got a NEW distributor. At first it didn't start the car with the new distributor only the old one. I eventually matched the exact position of the old one, and the car started. Now, it shakes on the lower gears and at times the rpm drops which makes the car die. It is now spitting a code 9. I tried rotating the distributor, but what is the appropriate thing to do here?
I just bought a90 cb7 and was driving it parked it went inside came out to electrical smoke on the passenger side and my car wouldn't start had spark but weak and is getting Air gas and compression thoughts?
Wires look fine that's the funny thing..and insulation? no there's none? ,,,,Maybe my car is just out of time?? . . .But then it would be acting up every start up right?..
I'm having a check engine light #9 on my 91 accord, and it shudders sometimes, but the light does stay on. I was told to replace to distributor, do you think that's correct. Thanks!!
Next .. do i connect the spinner outside the distributor to the long wide space into the motor & the short spin thing to the short part of the engine then mount the distributor ??? i know i got to set the timing after :) i connect the connectors :)
I would recommend resetting the timing if you put a different distributor on. In a pinch, I would put a mark on top of the distributor, across the top bolt holder, then you could transcribe the mark on the new distributor. It should be close.
hey im having crank no start problem.. ive recently replaced my icm , ignition coil and rotor, it ran fine for a good 2 weeks but now it starts for 3 seconds then dies..any ideas?
First pull your codes. If your car is able to start, it is most likely not something electrical. Check that all your vacuum lines are hooked up. Recommend not just throwing parts at it. Test a component before replacing it. Coil is pretty easy to test out. ICM can be ruled good or bad pretty easy. If your going to change your rotor, should change your cap too. How do your spark plugs look?
+Cameron Mitchell of friend of mine was with my the other night an we were looking at it..he tapped on the distributor an car stayed running for about 10 seconds ..so im leaning towards the distributor?
Make sure you replugged any connectors that you disconnected. Remove distributor cap, and clean the inside. Might have some oil in it. Like to shoot some wd-40 in there, and wipe it all out with lint free rag. Also, try reseat all your spark plug wires. Did you do anything else besides changing the o ring?
tubejim101 Thank's i got everythang hooked up .. now just need to know how can i get connectors from the91 honda accord distributor off ... thank's what tool can i use to complete this only got 1 connector to take off thank's for sharing :)
@@ByFLiPFX The distributor shaft, that goes into the cam shaft, is off centered, to help you put it on correctly. So that takes card of putting it on. Next center the distributor. That will get it close to being timed. Now you can run the engine, and set the timing to dial it in. It should not need much movement from center.
@@tubejim101 sorry 99 Honda accord lx so I uninstall it again and like put back then wouldn't start I let the battery die and charged it and worked sorry my car is that type of cars that you dont fix nothing because its not going to start
