The whole steering shaft can be removed, if you first remove the U-Joint at the steering column, then loosen the rag-joint at the rack. Then, just pull the whole shaft through the firewall. No need to unbolt the two halves of the shaft. That's if you use the entire steering shaft kits.
Thanks for the vid. Saved me some time after seeing you doing this. Off topic question, what is that (connection and wiring maybe?) you have coming out of your oil pan, just beside/above the drain bolt?
Perfect! Just one thing to note - don't forget to tell viewers not to turn their wheel too much, or even mention securing it in place once the intermediate shaft is removed. They could break the clock spring in the column by over stretching it.
That steering shaft set screw connection at the rack is ultra sketchy. If that thing backs-out even a few thousandths under vibration you have no steering. The factory pinch bolt design is the only way to go for securing the shaft to the rack.
If you don't have a buddy with a welder, bring it to a shop and ask them to weld the u joint collars to the shaft so you never need to worry about the set screws. Should only take a few minutes and cost a few bucks.
@@johnz5359 I’ve been a mechanical engineer in the automotive, industrial marine, and aerospace field for almost 30 years. Believe me when I tell you no chief engineer or senior level manager signs off on that design for production. It’s sloppy design work and a potentially company ending lawsuit waiting to happen. The appropriate design is a splined pinch bolt like the factory coupling scheme.
@@FancyAnimal Oh I totally agree. I was also just saying that I agree with you that it looks like those set screws can back out. I'm not saying they're fine, I'm saying if you have this part, it's best to get the joint welded to the shaft because it's not fine.
Hi I watch your videos and enjoy them and I would like to pick your brain. I have an 05 Toyota corolla when I accelerate and get to 45 mph and let off the gas and just cruise after that I gently touch the gas pedal and it starts to shake and lug. I’ve replaced for coil’s for spark plugs and I’ve tested the coil wires and the far left connection lit up on all four. Should to light up or just one? In the far one I believe is the ground and I know that should not light up.If I step on the gas the car responds immediately does not slip and accelerates great it’s just when I go from a stop get up to cruising speed and gently tap the gas do I feel the shake in the log from the engine I could really use your help thank you so much
Just watched... Asume your driving car now a yr later....how does it feel? Had heard with borg. Shaft sometimes too short... Doesn't look like you had any problems on install tho
Great informational video for a nice steering upgrade. Small bit of advice: I wouldn't hold a bolt with a ratchet while applying an impact to the other end of the bolt. The ratchet is not going to win that battle. (ask me how i know)