Great instructions, thank you. I rarely work on my 1995 Ford, but took this on because my mechanic could not work on it for 2-3 days and my shifter was non functional. Per the instructions included with the kit, the wavy washer should go on the upper bushing, but probably does not matter as the instructions also state you can remove the wavy washer entirely if the shifter is too tight after the rebuild. My pins were very loose when I removed and reinstalled. Probably why the last repair, by my mechanic, only lasted 2 years, maybe 15,000 miles. From another video, I saw someone remove a hose clamp that he had installed around the outside of the housing which captured the pins and held them in place. After seeing how loose my pins were, I followed that example and added a 2 3/4" diameter hose clamp around the housing to capture the pins. Shifter is tight and working well. Thanks again.
Dude, this saved me. I was about to pull my transmission and have it rebuilt by a shop that probably would have charged me over a grand. It cost 30 bucks, and it 100% fixed my issues. Mine was falling apart, no bushings, no warp washer, and the top plate was in 2 pieces. Life saver huge shout out
My '94 F150 needs this done too. Thanks for showing how. The aftermarket repair guides are never that good. So this is going to take a lot of guesswork out of it.
I just rebuilt the shifter in my '95 F-150 using your video as a guide, well, mostly. When I pulled the shifter out, there was no sign of the original bushing at all, just the wavy washer. I could not drive the pins out using the methods you described. At this point I was very frustrated. I sat in the garage for a bit and thought about it. I went back and looked at the pins and washer. They looked to be in good shape, so being that the bushing was a medium hard rubber, I decided to see if I could put half the bushing under one of the pins and use a pick to slip the other side of the bushing under the other pin and it worked, without damaging the bushing. I reassembled the shifter and it worked seamlessly. I'm not saying this will work for everyone, but it worked for me.
finally fixed my sloppy gear shifter. Using your directions i took it apart and to my surprise everything was perfect. I have a 92 f150. I noticed the shifter bolt was loose when i took it apart. well I've been driving it for a few years with it loose. i put everything back together I tightened the shifter bolt hard. the shifter bolt came loose again. i examined the bolt and it was worn from driving it while it was loose. so i went to the parts store they said you have to get one at the junk yard. I looked all over and could not find one. i was desperate. I finally found one for 5.00 dollars. Anyway it was the bolt. I just want to say thanks for the great video
Great video. I couldn’t tap the pins out, but didn’t need to, the bottom metal gasket slides under them, and the bottom rubber gasket bends enough to go under.
Awesome video!!!! I just had a clutch put in my 94 F-150, noticed it seemed more sloppy than usual. Finally it wouldn’t go into first at all exactly how your unit was. Great video, now I know what I’m dealing with. Thanks again!!
Worked on my 1989 F150 today. Needed a 4mm Hex Bit Driver Socket (for the 3 original cover bolts) and 17mm wrench. F150 shifts like new again. Thanks for the video.
I'll keep it simple and say that this is the best detail on the procedure. I'm at 175k, just a little sloppy but nothing like the way it arrived in your shop. Real bummer on shipping to Alaska. Pretty certain your customer was pleased with the result. I'm going to change the fluid at the same time. Maybe try Royal purple, Pennzoil has a GM mix. Anyone with experience please chime in. Owned multiple Rangers, .F series, fox body cars of all types. Not clueless but it helps to hear from the experiences of others. Again, great work !
Great Video.. Over all it clearly shows the process start to finish. BTW.. if you run across shipping issues and would like to get parts to Alaska just email me your info. You can have items shipped to me, then I can ship the parts to you. Cheers! PSR
Do youthink it would be possible to unbolt and remove the top cap off the transmission through that opening, or would you have to remove the larger cover under the carpet ? I want to do this kit to my truck, but would like to replace those plugs in the top cover at the same time - atf seems so light in the trans, does anyone use something with more viscosity ?
Hi, the Dorman kit 917551 I got from Rock Auto came with a flat spring. I have not installed anything yet. Just checking some videos to minimize mistakes in the field. Thanks for your good video.
Have 89 laser 🇦🇺 (dream car since P-plate days) and the shift isn't just loose. It's dropped. I'm guessing something's amiss with the pins. Meh, need to flush the transmission anyway This video with your accessible explanation is definitely going to help me avoid the majority of the local ovary taxes
No need to push out pins unless they have noticeable wear and only need back it out of the way on one side. New bushings and washer easily slide under the untouched pin. Also was a good time to pour an additional 1/2 quart or so of ATF in the opening.
I’ve replaced mine like 8 times. The 2 pins that slide into the shift ball keep wearing out. Any idea where I can get pins that aren’t gonna slide out and wear quickly ?
I did this and still had a sloppy shifter, before you put the shift lever on the stalk, turn it over and make sure the pin in the shift lever that goes in the slot on the stalk is not sheered off, if it is, there is no amount of tightening you can do that will fix it, you can drive the old pin out and drive a new one in, thats what I did and it worked great. I forgot how far that shifter moves stock, I later added a Shot Shifter to mine and now it has the shift trow of mustang
The Dorman kit states to put that one washer on the top of the top bushing. So that explains why they only give you one. Any issue using the new wavy washer inder 1st lower bushing and old one on top? Also one of.my pins was sheared off and neither pin is budging. I plan to use heat to loosen.
Hi can you tell me where to get my bushing kit? My 87 Ford V6 XLT 2.9 shifter came out of the the shifter hole, I fished 1,2 of the plastic donut out of tranny, I got a schematic from ford but when i took the tower cone off that has 4 screw 3 where finger tight only, the top rubber gasket is shredded and the plastic donut that sits atop the tower seems to be in ok shape. questions are do I need to get the broken piece out? I cannot see it from the top. And where do I get this kit? do you have a link you can share. Thanks, for you great video. I did not see any pins or holes for pins in shifter, looks like there was a ring around the broken piece at the bottom at one time.
Is this similar to the 85 Ranger? Mine spins completely around 360° and seems to go STRAIGHT into the tranny, minus the linkage in between. Not sure what the hell they have done to it!
Any good ideas for how to get the bolt out that hold the shifter arm on. Mine seems tight and stuck. Can it be tapped out with a hammer or is it partially threaded?
On my explorer m5od...once the nut was removed from the passenger side and installed on the driver's side I snugged it up and it wouldn't release the shifter. I ended up using a breaker bar in my left hand and supported the shifter with my right arm to break it free.
I'm almost done with putting in the same cheap dorman kit. I stopped because I noticed that because the old bushings and washers were so mangled, the pins seemed to have ground out a groove in the shifter ball. I'm wondering if I should try to find a new shifter ball or fab some new pins to tighten it up. Also, is there a stock ball from something that I could use to shorten the throw?
I've come across a couple of high mileage trucks now where things were so worn out that I ended up replacing the entire top half of the transmission housing (shifter tower) and the shifter ball so that I could get things tightened up. Sorry, I'm not aware of any stock units that will shorten the throw.
The m5od I was working on ended up being far too gone to warrant any money to repair it. Just about every wearable part was not just worn, but whooped. I managed to pick up a low mile replacement trans for scrap price. I'll be looking into cheap ways to harden it. If anybody knows some tricks to beef up the m5od r1 on a 4x4, I am all ears.
I’ve had to replace mine a few times because the pins keep wearing out. Well this time I wasn’t able to get the thing in neutral before taking it apart and I think I’m screwed. I put the new kit on and got it all put back together and I can’t get it out of second gear. Is there anyway to get the truck in neutral with the whole thing disassembled??
I have a 1990 f150 manual 5speed and I’ve done a shift rebuild I can shift into every other gear just fine but I just can’t find 5th but before I did the shift rebuild I could find 5th gear so either the shifter jam bolt that you can’t find anywhere is put in incorrectly or I need to do a transmission fluid change or I just don’t have 5th anymore if someone can please give me an idea what to do please help
I had the same problem and replaced a shifter fork then it was fine. If you pull away the carpet or rubber floor you can access the bolts and remove the top loader entirely, and the forks are easy to change. I did it 20+ years ago so the details are fuzzy. It's the same with any Mazda 5sp truck engine.
I’m trying to reattach the shifter but I can’t get the nut off of the remove end of the bolt to put the bolt back and tighten it. How do I get the nut off?
Put the bolt in a padded vice and remove the nut from there. Or do something similar with pliers or vice grips. Just something to old the bolt so you can unscrew the nut.
You mentioned that you are not a fan of the Dorman shifter rebuild kit. What brand would be your first choice, if they had been able to ship to you in Alaska?
My first choice would have been to source the parts from Ford/Mazda. Another choice would have been to get the parts from Allstate Gear Inc (not a sponsor).
The shifter is difficult to reinstall if the transmission is not in neutral. You’ll need to manipulate the shift forks (one at a time!) with a flat blade screwdriver or some other tool to get the transmission into neutral. Make sure the parking brake is set, or the wheels are chocked. Both shift forks will be lined up in neutral, the notches for the shift rods will look like [ ] when they are both in neutral.
Anyone know why 3rd and 4th gear would just stop working and not engage 95f150 5speed I jus did what this guy did in the video and it didn’t fix it no banging or grinding I downshift from 5th neutraled at 2nd for a light tried to go when the light changed and 1-2 was fine 2-3 3 wasn’t there tried 4th wasn’t there 5th was there had to limp my way to 55 from 25
That same shifter lever kit is by all standards, I have a 2002 Ford f150 and it's hard for me to find it for the same year, and I've been to auto zone and napa and they don't have it.
I much prefer the ZF tranmission - I feel it's much more appropriate for use in a full-size truck. Leave the Mazda transmissions to the smaller trucks like the Ranger.
@AKJeeper would this work on an '85 Ranger 4x4? Shifter rotates a full 360° and its a BITCH to fi d my reverse! Just bought the truck, and want to do a full restoration, as she is now a classic, as far as I'm concerned!
I got the nut off the right side and put it on the left side and tighten it down but I'm putting as much power as I can possibly get on there with an extended length wrench and it is not wanting to pull it out
I had the same problem. The best thing to do is make sure that it's in neutral then remove the three screws that hold the cover and lift straight up to remove the shifter ball and all then get the bolt out. I had tightened mine so tight that the nut was messed up and had to cut it off and replace it.
In extreme cases, worn out rubber bushings can cause the shifter to get stuck in a gear (or not go into any gears at all). You will need to take the shifter ball out - follow the video up to this point. Once out, look down the shifter tower and locate the shift levers - there will be two. Get a screwdriver and manipulate one shift lever at a time until you get them in the neutral (middle) position. The opening they create in the neutral position should look something like this []. From here, follow the rest of the video to install the new bushings and pins, and reassemble.
@@AKJeeper I’m not finding 2 shift levers. Just one piece I can manipulate on the left side. But when I move it, it keeps moving back to it’s original position
@@mikeclark7136 you should be able to see both shift rods if you get some good lighting in there. If the rods don’t stay where they are shifted, either the rod wasn’t moved all the way into position, or that could be an indication that there’s a problem with the shift rod detent balls and springs. If latter is the case, the top hat will need to be removed from the transmission…which means transmission removal.
@@AKJeeper thanks so much. I was actually able to fix it. I didn’t really know what I was looking for down there initially. But I got it out of 2nd and into neutral. I have to change this damn thing every few months because those pins keep getting beat up and slip out of place. This is the first time I couldn’t get it in neutral before doing so. Thanks again!
I found a 5spd shifter in my woods and idk what it is from but it has surface rust has the knob 1 2 4. R 3 5. SERIAL NUMBER 218583 I'm thinking it's a Ford 85 ish
