Brandon, thanks for your videos. They’ve helped me several times. I just got done rebuilding an 83 75hp Evinrude. Bored out, new pistons, rings, bearings and rebuilt the carbs. Never done anything like that before and it seems to be running well. Love these old 3 cylinders.
Hello from England. Thank you so much for these videos... taught me so much...miss these old omc strokers....4 strokes do not hold up nearly as well in the real world
With more and more people moving into the 4 strokes there are so many good part motors out there to be had. I got 4 more over the winter given to me by people I know that just don’t want 2 strokes anymore. I will keep mine running for years to come.
I got my Dad's old Bass Tracker, after he passed away. Dad bought it from a buddy of his who said he punched it out to a 70hp. All I know is that thing would FLY. It would get so fast that I didn't run it wide open. I wish I had kept the motor when I gave the boat to my brother. It would be on my pontoon right now. Thanks for these educational videos. I watch YT to learn, more than to be entertained and I get educated every time you post one..
I had the exact same motor J60TLCEA. Lots of tourqe and power. Sold it as a runner. These engines were sensitive to overheating due to the bridged exhaust port design. The port bridge grows inward when hot. The middle cylinder is the most sensitive. Your engine did not get the tell tale reroute update Evinrude called for in a certain service bulletin. Air pockets can be trapped in the block, so the tell tale hose has to rerouted from the bottom of the exhaust cover to the top of the block in order to vent out trapped air.
The real question is when you are coming to Ohio to service my 1975 85HP Johnson. I understand if you don't do free house calls halfway across the country, so I guess I'll just watch and learn. Thanks for your videos.
@@BrandonsGarage Bought a 1975 Glastron tri-hull V186 with a 85hp Johnson. Going to have the lower unit serviced before going out. Would like to do myself but want to be shown how first. My other question is how much else should I have done? Coils, ICM, wires... Although I don't want to spend a ton of money, if it's well spent I'm OK with doing it. Thoughts?
I understand why you swapped powerheads. It's just that I have a 1984 70 HP sitting here that I tore down years ago that I lost interest in that is waiting to get put back together. I thought your videos were going to give me motivation to get back at it. I was hoping it was going to be a full rebuild series like the 9.9 you did a while back which actually got me to rebuild my own 15 HP. Quite honestly its been so long I forget what went where on this 70. If you get bored and feel the need to tear one down and rebuild it I would be appreciative.
I would bore the block and put Weisco racing pistons in it, that would increase hp . I did that to a 135 hp evinrude before and it made a huge difference.
I hear this a lot actually... I dont think the additional 30 thousands is going to much of a HP gain, and I doubt you would ever be able to feel a differance. I presinally think the 'additional HP' you are feeling is nothing more than having a healthy engine again.
@@BrandonsGarage you might be right but the weisco pistons have a totally different ring design from stock pistons. The dowel in the ring grove is not centred in the ring grove, it is offset and as a result the weisco rings don’t but together over the dowel they overlap under the offset dowel and there is a significant increase in compression. For some background the 135 that I had was a 1975 Silver Starflite. It was a really nice engine to have. That being said I enjoy your videos.
Disassembled a lower on a merc 9.9 I got. Whole thing was shot. So much damage the housing was gouged. Ended up just replacing with another complete lower. But hard to find a used one at good pricing.
Your OMC 9.9/15 hp complete rebuild series is THE reference on those motors, it would be great if you would do the same on a 3 cylinder engine.Regards !
Hey Brandon, it’s been a while since I had a outboard problem, due in part to your videos, so thankyou … I find myself in need of adding a lanyard kill switch to a mercury 25xd from the mid 80s. I haven’t taken the boat out yet, it’s a tiny little thing called an Aqua Lark, 1 seater. It looks like it wouldn’t be hard to fall off it, hence the need for a lanyard switch, tho it’s been going without one since the 80s…but better safe then sorry… anyways, the 25xd controls has a shrouded switch below the key that says run/off, which I assume is to override the key if ever needed, is that where I should replace to a lanyard switch, and any idea how/where I find the right switch? All the universal switches I find are round housing, the switch on the controls is square. Shoot I can’t even find the exact year of the motor… I’m not a big fan of mercurys, I’m pretty good with OMC tho…
I own an automotive shop and have for more than a few decades. I notice your source is a marine only. OMC being out of business would seem to me that there should be better resources for hard parts at the least. After all they didn't exactly cast their own pistons or have a forge in the first place. They like ever other manufacturer went to venders like king and others to have their spec parts produced. I also know just like aircraft anything marketed as marine is significantly more expensive. I know they aren't outboards but I've overhauled more than a few IO engines using suppliers other than marine with good financial benefit and long lasting results. I repair only my own outboards though as they are such a headache in many ways. Good to see your work. Perhaps you've discussed it before but why the dual testing beyond the obvious. Also with no resistance in the other holes due to no plug your compression reading will be slightly higher. Which is no big deal as long as you judge accordingly.
Pull the other plugs just so it's easier on the starter, thing gets warm quickly with the plugs in. I mean, you're only turning a couple hundred RPM anyway, at idle you're at 800. But you are correct, it skews the results. If you rope pull a 6 HP, you'll get 90 PSI out of it. If you hook up a drill, you get 130. Oil the cylinders - 150. Really, the numbers don't matter, just that it A) has compression, and B) numbers are close together. I believe that's why the numbers were never published. As far as marine vs. automotive, that's not always an option on outboard parts as there is no comparable auto version of the same part. Inboard engines sure. Now, some parts do interchange with snowmobiles, lawn mowers, and golf carts, but they are the same part/cost.
Brandon you probably have worked on more of these old Johnson/evinrude 2 smokers than anyone I know. All I’ve ever owned is older 2 strokes and have blown up a few of them. Every one that blew was while being run WOT, I don’t really baby my motors. 3/4 throttle to WOT and that’s about it. Is there any issue to running WOT most of the time in the older 2 strokes? What’s your recommendation?
Most I know say it’s a 2 stroke with less moving parts and actually good to run em wot. I’m sure it’s within reason. More rpm gonna wear faster I’m sure but on the flip side if you run em hard I feel like they don’t carbon up as bad
My 1970 evinrude running like champ at wide open I think it’s a lean rich thang I run mine little rich but foul plugs but plugs are cheap carry wrench and socket few plugs have fun
When my power head overheated & were trying to fix it I saw rebuild powerheads on ebay over 2k. Even though it was nicely painted how does one know all the gasket & seals were replaced that comes with the rebuild kit as that would be a more time consuming & would prove my doubts that those rebuild powerheads are not a complete rebuild. More like a rebore with new pistons & that's it. Go figure it rebuild parts is costing $800 for a 70hp how is it possible to get a whole rebuild one for $500?
