Hi 👋, I am a old dude that used to race radio controlled hydros. I’ve done electric cars as well and buggies and I’ve written a motorbike a Harley Davison for best part of 30 years., and because I’ve been out on the road itself, I believe your find that your car park is got small humps in the tarmac, probably not noticeable to your eyes, but I bet if you laid something very long and straight across the area, your noticed those dips in the tarmac, when I have been riding on the road, you can see where sometimes lorries have bounced on lamps similar to what you’ve got, and these are funny tire marks, and this is the reason why you’ve got traction, no traction traction and no traction, Good luck , Phil from the moulin France,
Epic video Raz, I think your wheelie bar needs to come up and be matched to your suspension travel. When the car squats the wheelie bar hits the ground taking pressure off the rear tyres limiting traction. Lift it up a little and you might see the skipping minimise and have a bit more traction.
Raz. When you put the preparation on the road push the car through if but lift the car up to bring it back rather than pulling it back, this should cover more of the tyre in the preparation. Or you could try it in your workshop using just a wheel and some wood? 🤔👍
I love all the tips people give to setups. It’s interesting to learn from others and adopt different setups. One of the best tips a person gave me was play with your setup and do one thing at a time so you know what characteristics have changed for either improvement or failure. It’s a hobby. Take your time and play with your cars.
Hey Roz love your videos where I found that work best for drag is locking the front diff scorched RC Locker and 2mil in the rear what you want to do is get the front tires to pull and not let the rear tires push as the motor creates torque you need to adjust suspension for that so it actually keeps the two front pulling tires on the ground keep in mind you're trying to pull not push you will find you don't even need that wheelie bar it will just shit and get try and keep the car as light as possible add anything that is not completely necessary!! Power-to-weight ratio also you don't need such big of a milliamp battery you're going for a two-second burst you don't need a lot of gas in the tank just a high discharge hope this helps good luck
The area of the video where you were talking about brake, traction, and brake, traction: this is called wheel hop. The way to fix this will adjusting your suspension. Thicker fluid, stiffening or loosening shocks, etc.
I've been using those body mounts for about a year, they do take a little while to set up (use thread locker or get locknuts) and they require 3/4 inch holes in the body, but they are GAME CHANGERS!! I'm never going back to body clips!
Hey, raz real drag racers put chalk on the wheel of the wheelbar. It will leave marks on the road where it touched. That might help the prep is supposed to burn out on a test run. You don't really want too much liquid on the road or the tires. Do a burn out first with the prep. Then put your car on the starting line. And go for it.
Hi Raz. Love your content, and I admire your dogged perseverance regards everything you do. I was thinking the "hops" may possibly be due to an uneven surface of the bitumen. Could pass a laser over it to check. I have a couple of charge posts at the back of my bench. It's a great idea for making things easy, just don't sit your car on the posts....💥
I wonder if the drag bar being on the ground is causing the hop. I'd imagine the car compresses when you smash the throttle, driving the drag bar into the ground and potentially causing a rocking back and forth between the car and drag bar. 🤔
If you ask 100 drag races, you will get 100 different answers but you got a lot of things right and it’s great to see you trying something different. I’m sure you’re gonna love the 132 foot mark.💯✌️
People I see using prep only roll the car one way… forward. It’s a two handed operation 1. Roll car forward through the prep 2. Pick car up and place at the beginning of the prep 3. Repeat steps 1 & 2.
You have a couple of things you should do. Raise your wheelie bar according to your rear suspension travel. Your rear springs should allow for some travel. I know you think your top in needs to be turned up but it’s actually too high so turn the last number down. Turn the torque down and gradually go up as you get faster. The key is to keep traction. When you spin it uses more power so you think it’s going faster but it’s not. So turn the power down.
@@dadon197922 you use the 2nd plug that’s on the esc and turn your aux wire to torque setting in your esc and then you can adjust it with your remote. It makes a really big difference when using it.
I know that the wheelie bars on real drag cars are off the ground a little bit so the weight transfer makes the rear suspension load up for weight transfer
drag stuff: blow the surface off. when it spins at half track u can see the dust cloud if u want to move the car over, only do it by tires. Keep the middle of the car over one of the good tire tracks. USE THE DATA LOGS!!! If u look at motor rpm and clear the logs after every run u will know where it spins
I have seen videos of people cleaning their wheels( remove prep) every 2 to 3 test runs, because of the junk the prep-wheels pick up. In Florida, it's a 50/50 on arrma 4x4 and 2WD drag cars. No-prep 2WD drag racing, the wheelie bar is just for the launch, on arrma 4x4 not to sure on that one.
I'm not an RC drag racer but I do drag race my real cars. My first thought into getting better times out of your RC is why not use real drag car winning formulas? Like wider tires, adjusting the suspension to let the car weight roll to the rear of the car, maybe developing real drag tires that squish / krinkle zones to help the car get traction
So glad u are getting into drag.. ive been dabbing alil into it... ive been working more so i cant get to the cars as much but this is refreshing to see some help! Ive gotten to 1.8 with now wheelie bar but it was definitely a time get there.. salute to u Mr Raz!
Out here in the states it's single motor rear placement for the engines and they use the fat drag tires rear wheel drive only then u also have the run what u bring classes
So for 1:1 cars with midgrade power you can dissolve pine rosin in alcohol apply to the surface and dry( air over time or fire) or just apply the rosin to the ground and burn it makes a pretty good traction compound for less then vht
@@kylenabozny6260 You know, people like you is the reason why the RC hobby is slowly fading away. So, in your "Professional" opinion, how about instead of criticizing, give your input on what Raz should try.
GNSS is playing with you! I find (and many others) they are very inconsistent when running sub 2s. I spent months chasing my tail till I realized this.
Wheelie bar might be better with some kind of spring. But I think you're getting the traction lost when the wheelie bar and front wheels basically lift the rear wheels off the ground.
You need a little more prep on the ground, most use a table or prep board! Wheelie bar needs to be a little off the ground. Run in the same groove, if you’re going to run in a new spot you need to prep the tires/ground again…
I may be wrong but it looks like the spots that don't have the wheel mark's is where it's getting traction. And the spots that u can see wheel mark's is where the car is spinning and loosing traction
My guess is you want the Willie bar little bit above the ground because you want your rear suspension to be able to work. Your suspension should be able to squat when you take off and then progressively grow throughout the run. If you're bar is touching the ground already it's stopping your rear of your car from squatting giving you aggressive acceleration off the line. All that torque is pulling that rear suspension down and all you're telling it is you can't go any farther down, so okay it's going to start spending because there's no more room to go down.
You kill Me raz love it love it such a great example to us all of what it takes to be great good job good for you best of luck and health and happiness to you my friend
hay raz. a new glue roller bottle to apply the prep juice would help. it makes it fast, easy and consistent to apply prep juice. also easy to make the prep strips longer and wider.🍺🕶👍
Love that you’re praising the community and learning from it!! This is what the hobby is all about!! Keep them speeds up and wheels down!😜😁🤙🏻👍🏻 good shit Raz!!!
Another area where you will see the greatest benefit is under heavy acceleration. A higher C rated battery will be able to sustain higher voltages but also at higher current output. This will allow an RC car to accelerate out of the hole faster.
great video as always. I work on roads, the reason for your hop skipping could be down to the road surface. it may look perfect but it probably isn't. you should try another road or different area to try eliminate this, it may not be down to the car. hope this helps
You should look into battery quick disconnects for your charger. Basically a traxxas connector for a car battery. Rated around 175 amp. More efficient power and easier to use
Speedrunning really is a pain in the arse with all the crashes and broken parts. In addition to all the Perfect Pass parts you build, how about a new line of accessories called "Perfect Crash"? Perhaps an airbag that inflates based on gyro feedback to protect the car once it gets launched into the air...?
Question the faster you go do you still prefer a fast steering servo? To me I would think a slower one wouldnt be so twitchy at high speed but it seems everyone still runs a fast servo. Wheelie bar shouldn't drag its there to keep you from flipping over. That said you are all wheel drive so its a balance to keep the front end down as well so you have traction. Most all wheel drive cars will have 60 percent or more to the back tires maybe via slipper clutch or something you can spread more power to the back so the front end coming up doesnt cause tire spin. I think you should look into making your own brand of speed rated tires there is obviously a market for it .
When using a wheelie bar the u have to make sure u have travel on the suspension... enough spring resistance before the the wheelie wheel hit the ground but also the front need to have enough lift to level out to eliminate the hop
With full size drag racing when used prep use to do a burnout than move forward little compound under rear tires then spin wheels 2 turns then move forward too start line .
Great video the wheelie bar has to be a little of the ground so the weight can transfer through the suspension it will help with the bouncing in the end of ur run
I love the fact that you’re into drag now.. because I started as a speed runner and now drag racing and I’m in love with it.. hope to see more content 💯
Put ur wheel on top of the wheelie bar. U want a You want a quarter of distance from the wheelie bar wheel & the ground.. And for your prep you wanna roll it until you see the webs Forming up & on ur 3 stage speed in ur Remote Bottom- 90 Middle- 50 Bottom- 45 End point-115 to 120 Acceleration 35 to 40 I don't know ur gearing that ur running. But I'm running the same 1721 in my limitless
really nice body and cool see you doing drag cars. i would try having the wheelie bar to sit mm's above the ground, this allows the suspension to travel and that lets the weight transfer which aids in grip. your car is pulling left as well , go over the suspension, could be the diff lockup is too loose op tight . cant wait to see how you do next video
Awesome video as always very informative I wish my infraction hed some of those qualities 😎😎😎 Thanks mr raz מאוד מעריך את כל הערך שאתה חולק שבוע טוב מבורך ומלא בהצלחות קטנות
Hey raz whats up the paint job on that car is amazing gorgeous beautiful, actually that paint scheme would look great on my real car. You work is so clean very well Explained and fun to here all the stats on the car just fantastic work and video crystal clean. Your the best my brother. Tu da your friendly neighborhood Doorman william from NYC forgettaboutit 👊 ✌️ I love you guys so cool 🎉🙏⚘️👏👏👏😚
Greetings Mr. Shifrin, It looks like you are using foam tires on your car. Have you tried using rubber tires like Losi 22S Drag Mickey Thompson Rear Drag Tires ? Also try putting a small drop (about 6 mm) of road prep. and do a burnout to heat the tires and prep. Thanks for all the inspiration you and your friends give.
Great video as always!! Something very simple I see alot of dust flying just after launch. One thought after watching your launches, do you use your blower to blow the dust off the entire length of the run area's pavement before you start your runs? Once the prep dissipates dust, dirt will help to lose traction very fast.
