Thanks a lot man, if it wasn't for your video I would have had to call a professional to get that primary spring in place, your technique is the best I have seen yet, without using any special tools of course. Thanks again.
This is not only an awesome video, it is extremely impressive how you were able to do all this on camera. I spent a whole day learning how to do this job (yeah I'm an idiot), and what took you a minute to do it takes me an hour. The hardest parts were removing the park brake horseshoe and putting the big spring back on.
A few things these guys missed: 1. This is the "easy side" to do. You will have a harder time lining the adjuster and e-brake part on the opposite side as the position of the piston and other parts are NOT 100% the opposite due to the E brake having to be on the same place. The parts don't go together nearly as easy due to this. 2. These guys also skipped several steps pertaining to taking apart the self adjuster and properly lubricating it and screwing it all the way in to assist in installation. 3. The horseshoe clip on every one of these cars should have a Bellville type washer to keep some tension on the e-brake lever and brake shoe. This does two things, make the washer much harder to remove AND install. 3. You may also have to adjust the e-brake after doing this. This is a pretty good video, but I wouldn't use this as your only frame of reference.
@broderp- you are absolutely right, we should have showed a quick little part with the adjuster since this is one of the only times they can be cleaned and lubed.
Thank you!!! The plug on my cylinder came out too and the pedal goes to the floor so I thought it was broken (e brake was stuck so things came apart while prying the drum off) I was going to order a new cylinder and pay for install, after you mentioned it when yours came out I will just bleed myself, hopefully thats all it needs. Keep posting!!!!!!!!
Ok, For the life of my i couldn't get the top spring in ( hours trying) So we took it all apart. Tried this:Connect parking brake same as video, then top spring first. adjuster second ( need to pry it a tiny bit by hand) Then slid the 2 shoes and the top spring and adjuster in place as one unit, put the 2 spring clips in, installed the adjuster and spring, then bottom spring last, pushing it back in place just like your video. Did both sides in under an hour. So maybe worth a try if your stuck. Cheers
Appreciate the video and saved quite a bit doing it myself. It was the first time to perform drum brakes and it was painful... at least the first side. Recommend taking off the shoe from the emergency cable it will be much easier to remove the retaining pin/horseshoe clip. Also, recommend new springs and be careful not to stretch them out to much trying to get them in. I had to re-accomplish one side (used the old spring) as it was clunking when the brake was applied. I stretched out the form and every thing has to line up perfectly with the tension.
Hi APDTY, I just signed up on here to thank your for making this nice and detailed video for the rear drums for this car. It is really helpful. I know it is not beneficial to your shop, because everybody is doing it them selves now. Haha. Thats way I had to go out of my way to Thank You man!
Wow I'm real glad this video was on here, replaced front and rear brake shoes and the front ones were a breeze, the rear were not so much but like anything the 1st took the longest, I had trouble getting top spring off on one and found that if u take retainer clips off and shorten the adjuster it relieves the tension on the spring. And also now my emergency brake is way loose now and idea why that would have changed so much. Thx for the video it was so helpful.
If the e-brake is too loose, usually that's an indication that the rear brakes need to be adjust tighter. I would start by double checking the rear brake adjustment.
Release the fluid pressure at the cylinder before attempting that spring. C clamp at the cylinder before the shoes go on, then clamp the hose. It will keep those pistons compressed and the shoes will be closer together with much less spring tension and less chance of blowing out the cylinder...which you already managed to do...
Watching the video again, you are certainly correct, we did forget that washer, luckily it's not a critical component, it holds a slight amount of pressure against the pin to keep it from rattling. As long as you keep the wheel cylinders and bleed valves closed while doing the job, no air will enter the system and you won't have to bleed them.
Awesome video yet again! I get all my parts from you guys BECAUSE you make these awesome videos!! Just did the rear drum brakes on friends civic and this video was superb! Keep it up! :-)
hondas like to pop the wheel cyl apart when your not super carefull i always push the wheel cyl in all the way then pinch off the hose so it wont pop back out which usually will avoid that issue
One thing that can cause what you describe is if the brake drum is warped, at slower speeds it can cause a clicking noise as the parts inside the brake drum shift around. If it's something broken loose inside the drum, it will usually make other loud noises, (grinding etc..) because it would get caught on parts as it spins around.
If vise grips with screwdriver are used to pull the spring out , clamp the other shoe to the splash plate with C-clamp. This will resist pulling force to some extent and will prevent wheel cylinder piston getting out of the bore
thanks for the vid. i might be mistaken, but did you forget the spring washer when you installed the horseshoe clip for the e-brake? also, how do you avoid letting air into the brake system so you don't have to perform a brake bleed?
I found it so much easier if i attached the top spring to both shoes before putting on the second retaining clip, but i also attached the buttom spring last si i could move the shoes a bit for alignment on cylinder.
My husband has a tool kit just for this. He tried for HOURS to get that spring on. I watched this video and tried with a flat head screwdriver and IT WENT RIGHT ON FIRST TRY! Those tools are useless! Literally went on fast and easily (I also tried the tools first and they were impossible)
Unfortunately you want to replace that wheel cylinder. They will seep just a little tiny bit, but if the little boots on the ends are full of fluid, then they need to be replaced. Also don't wait too long or brake fluid will get all over the shoes and the brake shoes are like sponges and soak that fluid up. Once the shoes soak up the fluid, they will not stop the car properly and the shoes are ruined.
Hi there. will you guys be able to do a mod video for rear disc conversion from drum brakes for 2001 to 2005 civics? that would be awesome. Thanks for the help from the vids. Always useful.
2:30 I did the exact same mistake today, except I don't have a shop, so it cost me a visit to a shop. Totally ruined my weekend. I'm not sure how to pull that spring and prevent that external seal from popping off at the same time.
Is there another name for the retaining pin that the horseshoe clip holds in? I lost one and can't find a replacement, because no one seems to know what I'm talking about.
Im desperately in need of help. I replaced my shoes now i cant get the drum on. Which is new also and and adjuster is closed all the way. Can't seem to figure out how to get the shoes and closer to slide the drum on.
I did everything and all went fine but when i put my wheels back on they can hardly move. Do I need to adjust them more?? Moves fine with the wheel off and the drums on.
They are adjust out too much. You want to back off the adjuster a little and bring the shoes in so they are barely touching the drums with the brakes not applied.
Just a reminder safety glasses are really needed. I know my co-worker was doing this with a pair of needle nose pliers and slipped off the spring and stabbed himself in his eye! Freak accident but he is with out a eye.
RIP his eye. Had a severe eye injury once myself, didn't lose it but was blind for 7 months and needed a bunch of surgeries to have like 1/8 the vision I used to lol
hey APDTY does any bad parts in the rear drunk break cause clicking noise when driving at 10mph speed and it fade out as the speed increase because the rotation of the wheels is too fast for something to make contact to cause the noise?
The drums aren’t what stop your car, well they do combined with your shoes. But the brake shoes are what wear out like disc brake pads on rotors. The drums are essentially like rotors on disc brakes. The shoes and drums or pads and rotors should be replaced if they are really bad. You only need to change out your rotors if they are scratched from the pads getting too low and the metal screechers are scraping and making that horrible sound and or feeling in the brake pedal. I usually just change out the pads and shoes tho, unless the drums or rotors need to be also. Long answer short, changing just the drum won’t do any good if your shoes are worn out and need replacing, and you’ll ruin your new drums once the shoes wear out completely which would be soon.
I wouldn't recommend doing so unless you are going to replace the bearing anyway, taking off the preload on the bearing and then re-tightening it can (Not necessarily will) cause a shortened life on the bearing.
I just did my brakes but the top spring stay loos and i try hard to put the brake disc but take long cause was very tigt so was the problem on my brakes and i feel pedal to deep very down ehats wrong
Hey so when doing my rear drums today, my wheel cylinder popped out the sides also. Do I just have to bleed the brakes, or do I have to replace the wheel cylinders?
I think most or a large percentage of the 8th generation civic's have upgraded to disc brakes in the rear. So if you have drum brakes on your civic, then they will be very similar and if you have rear disc brakes, then look for some rear disc brake videos as they are different from the front as they have a parking brake built in.
Hi guys. I have an 2004 Honda Civic LX L4 - 1.7L 1700cc type D17A1 model and live in the Netherlands. Up here they don't have suitable parts and the ones they have are quite expensive at the official dealer. My question is, how do i know it's a 7 or 8 inch type? The car seems regular. And what types od front and rear brakes schould i get. On Amazon i saw these: Wagner ThermoQuiet QC465A Ceramic Disc Pad Set With Installation Hardware, Front. Is it any good? Thanks.
My rear brake shoes got replaced . brakes feel more smooth but theres still a fucking noise when i brake its not a grinding noise more like a bird type squeaking noise. Dispicable
Fuk Youuu make sure brake lube is applied to the area of the backing plate that the brake shoes slide against, not on the brake shoe friction material obviously, but the side of the brake shoe that moves against the backing plate, depending on the mode you have, they usually have small fiat spots that you can add lube to.
2:10 why not just grab each brake pad, while wearing safety glass's and fold the break pads in and take them out instead of all that vice grip stuff... and put it back same way
