2004 Chevy Silverado E-Brake Parking Brake Light Stays on Fix!! $5 

Thank you for posting this. To others who are doing this easy installation: Depress the brake lever ALL the way to the floorboards to get access to the sensor. The metal bracket holding all the wire connectors doesn't need to be removed. Take a photo of the location of the wire connectors, remove them easily, the white box that holds them all tilts forward and out. Push it out of the way while you remove the sensor. 7mm socket on a quarter inch drive with a short extension worked for me. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR POSTING THIS!

Thank you for this! Light and bell were driving me nuts until I manually opened the switch and that solved the issue. Shoving a piece of cardboard in there to keep it open until the part arrives.

This was super helpful and fixed me problem. I'd been driving with the air conditioning on blast and radio up to ignore the parking break chime for way too long! 6 dollars to fix was well worth it

Thanks Man! replaced mine this weekend, pulled everything out of the way and it was a breeze, 15 mintes max, your video made it an easy fix

Thanks for the replies on the other thread Jeremy. The issue I had is my parking brake was engaged, but the light on the dashboard was off. I replaced with the $6 switch. This is how the switch should work… The replacement switch is normally closed when it’s right out of the box. When the parking brake is NOT engaged, the switch will be open. When the parking brake IS engaged, the switch will be closed allowing 12 V to ground. The single blue wire is the 12V. The bolt holding the switch is 7 mm there is a small alignment nipple on the switch that has to engage inside a little hole on the frame when you screw in the 7mm bolt. I recommend removing the metal frame that holds the relay switch stack. This makes access much easier and it’s not difficult to remove. It hangs up on the left side a little bit but it’s easy to figure out. There’s two bolts holding the bracket in place - a 10 mm on the right (gas pedal side ) and 13 mm on the left - removing this bracket will help with access to the 7 mm and ensuring alignment of the nipple/hole. I removed the panel plastic trim cover that encompasses the hood release lever. If you engage the pedal around halfway, there’s a spot that allows you to see the switch completely as well as the hole in the frame for the nipple. NO NEED TO DO ZIP TIE (at 6:50) because of this, make sure you mount the switch with the parking brake ENGAGED somewhere around halfway. That way there’s no contact with the pedal on the switch and it’s SO easy to see it as well. After installing you will see with the parking brake disengaged the arm on the switch moving and going open which removes 12V to ground turning off the dashboard light. Thanks for the great video Jeremy!

excellent job, fixed my E parking light.. I think my switch was just dirty. took a picture of the cable plugs. 20 min job -- 19 minutes of struggling to put the bolt back in :).

Jeremy, this was just the ticket for me! I'll have a comment at the end because I found it quite by accident. There certainly isn't much room to work in there - I had to disconnect everything from that white relay box and still could barely get it out of the way. @raulprieto2351's suggestion to do it with the pedal fully depressed is a golden nugget because the switch goes in at its closed position this way with no resistance from the spring action. To get the switch back in with more room to see and fit the item I used a slightly curved hemostat clamped to the brass arm where the spade terminal is, put the screw into its hole in the switch, held a small flashlight in my mouth, moved the switch into place and worked the screw into its home then tightened it with an extension on a small ratchet handle. I don't think that I could have done it by hand without further adversity. This should have been a 10 minute job. For those who drop the screw on taking it out and hear it falling into small fastener hell in the bowels of the space behind the side panel a #8 x 1 inch slotted hex head will do just fine using a 1/4 inch socket. Ask me how I know. Add the time to drive to your nearest hardware store to buy a new screw to 10 minutes and that's how long it takes to do this. Jeremy - a quick suggestion if I may. For the sake of others looking for how to replace the e-brake parking brake light switch, do you think that you could post it another time with the title "How to replace the e-brake parking brake light switch early 2000's Chevy pick-ups and SUV's" It would pop up more easily for those of us searching for this specific task. This video is perfect. I don't know how you did it and filmed it so clearly at the same time. Can't thank you enough! 👍👏

Thanks! I had the opposite problem (the light wouldn’t turn on) and this helped me troubleshoot. I was able to bend the switch with my finger and now it’s working great again. No idea how that happened. Now I know how to replace the switch if it comes to it. Great video! Hope your dinger is doing all right! 😂

Not sure if it’s the right way but I did exactly what you did but with the brake engaged giving me plenty of room to remove and replace fixed my light problem in no more than 10m thank you

Actually your camera work was great

Thank you you help me fix my beeping alarm problem that switch was making my alarm go off constantly I just disconnected it and it stopped my alarm from beeping anymore thanks for posting this you are awesome

Thank you this is exactly What I was looking for👍 awesome video.

Thank you very much I am in scrolling through so many freaking videos in your video even though you’re a bad cameraman ha ha ha was the one I need it thank you again

Sorry about your dinger... you should have that looked at... .thanks for the video bout the switch

Thank you so much!!! helped me !!! enjoyed your video

Now trying to find a hole with no hair around blind whether it is a screw hole or not that is among one of thee toughest jobs in the world.

Tysm just saved me a nightmare of a drive

Happy thoughts, man... Happy thoughts

Good looking. Just ordered the switch and hope it’ll do the trick.

Thank you for the video!

It will chime. My light uses to be on, never made noise. Just recently it makes noise but the light blinks now instead of just remaining one solid color

Same problem here..thanks man.

Thank you so much awesome video

It worked but I didn’t overlap or do anything with what you were talking about in the end with the zip tie .. should I be worried ..

"my dinner doesn't work, that sounds weird" lmao😅

Thank you very much sir.

Thank you for sharing.

when you got the screw in and started take a screwdriver and push underneath to get the tab in instead of zip tying but great video

parking brake was down on my 2004 Silverado 2500 one notch and for some reason my light was on flashing reelected the brake everything works fine and the chime sound is gone.

I'm going to try this. My light has been on for quite awhile.

My 2002 duramax silverado has the same problem plus the dinger does work, which is a serious headache. Can I disconnect or remove the switch in order to stop the alarms until I can get the part and replace it?

Thanks for this video. I didn't think the switch was way under there. I was hoping it was near where the foot pad comes up near the dash. Wishful thinking I guess.

I have the same problem on a 07 Escalade

What is that switch called? I can't sem to find it on Orileys auto..or Amazon.

I just got my part, sill Have to let you know if this works

Now the last time I did this I got my fat ass stuck between the dash steering wheel and seat. I never saw my cat laugh so hard watching me trying to get out that one. He refused to replace the switch 4 me not my yob man he told me...

Where is that wire coming from the blue one ? Mine was completely disconnected and i cant fi d that blue wire

Please help! My light wont come on when the pedal is engageed. I have the switch out but what I don't understand is when applying the foot pedal I dont see what on the actual pedal is engaging on part of the switch (the part you had broke). I move the pedal all the way and I cannot for the live of me figure out what is engaging that metal wing that then makes the switch on or off. Something must engage that wing early on for the light comes on immediately when it is working at least that is what I saw on yours. My blue wire has 12V power I wonder is something else is broken on mine. Thanks!

Will that switch work for my 1990 gmc Sierra k1500

ty

Thank you

Nice job god bless

Hey man, i liked the video but it wasnt the problem for me, my light came on when i was pressing the regular brake cause i was bleeding/replacing a brake line. I remember pressing the brake to the very back and i heard a click and then the light came on😬 any solution or place to start looking to solve this?

This fits a suburban same year

Your dinger doesnt work "thats what she said" 😂😂😂

Going to try this lights won't shut off when I restart my truck

Did you just pull the blue wire off bc mine won’t come off😂

Will this work on a 93 Silverado?

Hahaa my dinger doesn't work either bro its all good

Where does the blue wire connect to at the other end?

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I was hoping this was it but alas, my brake light is still on. Checked the master cylinder and it's full too. Oh well.

Defender owner's school

What’s the part name

I swapped mine out and the light is still on

Instead of doing that you should just release the brake and install the switch with the brake released.

I just changed out my switch and the light is still on. Idk why it's still on.