Hi Mark, Thanks for the great videos. Both on your Sprinter and removing ticks from dogs. Our 5 year old Chocolate Pit-Patterdale picked up some HUGE "longhorn" ticks during a trip to the Grand Canyon this summer. A gadget called the "Tick Tornado" helped us remove those buggers. She became extremely ill by the time we got home, though. It too, a course of antibiotics and two+ weeks before she could climb stairs period. Moral of the story: coat the pooch with some spice & herb based oil (bought at Wal-Mart) before taking out into the field. I live in Albany NY (another Rust Belt City) and bought my 2005 Dodge 3500 Sprinter (158" cab & chassis with a 13' aluminum electrician's box/body made/installed by Hackney USA) a few months ago on eBay from whom I now know to be a disreputable seller in Philadelphia. Oh the challenges I've brought upon myself. But challenges like this are what I live for (-: After getting my Sprinter home I found (among many other problems) that the parking brake was in the same condition as yours: what Mercedes calls the parking brake "equalizer" (lever mechanism that distributes the force from the forward parking cable to both driver and passenger side parking brakes) had been frozen in the "parked" position since who knows when. I'm going to remove then soak the equalizer lever in phosphoric acid (the active ingredient in Naval Jelly; I buy it by the gallon from Home Depot in the paint department). I'll then wash it, dry it, then paint it with enamel (don't know that the paint brand matters). I'll then cure the paint slowly over a 24+ hour period in a toaster oven that I reserve for these purposes. Probably coat the pivots with dry lubricant to keep grime from collecting... I'm also dealing with constant limp-mode (I think the previous owner put kerosene into the fuel tank to give it "normal power" when I picked it up), and over a dozen P codes that I think indicate problems with the wiring harness. My current BFH plan is to buy a tweaked ROM from Green Diesel Engineering and see if that'll at least get the van to pass state inspection. Then I'll hunt down and kill the gremlins one by one. As far as the parking shoes go, I'm taking the well-thought-out technique from your video on pulling the the rotor/drum. It's been decades since I've worked on anything but motorcycles and I often forget the basics like this. So I'm going to the local Harbor Freight tomorrow and buying a set of HEAVY DUTY three-arm pullers. I love those 25% off coupons (-: Before I can remove the rotors, though, I think I need to remove a "locking bolt" from inside the rotors. I've not been able to yet discover details the MB service manual, from forums, or RU-vid videos as to the location of this bolt and how to remove it. Can you give me any tips on that? Thanks again, Corry
Hello Corry, don't quote me but I don't remember there being a locking bolt on the sprinter... I remember the torx on the rear GL I have but it's been too long since I did the rears rotors on the sprinter to remember... sorry for the late response. never noticed any notifications of comments and here I am going through a list of 10-year-old comments now. does the phosphoric stop with the rust or does it continue to etch away at the metal? i saw gallon sized evapo rusts at home depot and horror freight wonder if the ingredients are in the msds sheets... sorry to hear about your dog and thanks for the spice and herb oil recommendation... is that in the pet department?
hi there how would you remove and replace the front park break cable i have the same problem sprinter module seized up and front cable snapped so i have to replace the front cable, ut not sure how to access it please any advice.
